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Old 04-04-2007, 12:42 PM   #1
StiDreams
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Thumbs up OT Climbers Check In (2007).

Last year we had all these grand plans and none of them hatched out. We only managed three day trips to Donner Summit, one day trip to Sugar Loaf (Kybers, CA) and a couple of half days at the local crags. My climbing partner had many family issues that were way more important than a little climbing. I totally understand and sympathize with his plight but none the less last year was a little bit of a let down for me. Unfortunately this year will be more of the same.

The plan is for eight trips. Most of them will be day trips with one or two ďbigĒ trips in there. Weíre planning on hitting Donner Summit and Loverís Leap (Strawberry, CA) as many times as we can on the day trip plan. One of the two weekend trips will probably be to do North Dome one day and Fairview Dome the next. The other trip will likely involve East Buttress of Middle Cathedral and maybe Royal Arches. I can only hope that it goes as well as planned.

I know thereíre a couple of you guys/girls in here. What are you up to this year? What have you done so far this year? What are you doing?
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:42 PM   #2
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I just drive up the road, it's a lot quicker.
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:42 PM   #3
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We had already hit a local crag this year but we were itching to do something a little longer than a single pitch. For that this year we started out planning to climb Lover’s Leap last weekend. The plan was to warm up on the Groove and then hit the Line. That didn’t happen. When we got there, the campground parking was closed. There was snow on the ground so that meant the overflow parking was probably inaccessible. And there was snow still on the wall. So there was a change in plan.

We back tracked to Sugar Loaf. This is a nice place to climb but I always hate the hike up the hill to it. We decide to do Shyster because one of the longer lines here (3 pitches) and it goes relatively easy at 5.7. I say relative because the 5.7 grade is old school and it is a little bit of a grunt. The first pitch starts off really mellow for 30 or 40 feet but then it turns into a slot/chimney thing. You end up squirming up 60 or 70 feet of this and then you have to extricate yourself from it. It makes you grunt but its great fun. The next pitch would have gone at 5.7 also but the 5.8 variation was dry. All of the other times that we’ve done this route, that variation has always been wet. It was a little bit more of the same. You just wedge yourself into the corner and grunt your way up it. The committing move was pulling a small overhang. After that it was easy sailing.

After that we packed it up and headed down the hill to a slab climb. The climb is on a small 100’ tall rock before you get to the main rock. Somebody there said it was graded at 5.9 but it didn’t seem that hard. I don’t know what it’s called but it was a beauty. Seven bolts on low angle slab with thin edges. It was very reminiscent of many of the Tuolumne slabs but with four more bolts. I’ll update with the name of the climb and the name of the rock when I get that information.

Both climbs were top notch and worth doing. Maybe the next trip will actually be what we planned for the first trip. I really couldn’t be happier with that trip for a season opener.
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 24 View Post
I just drive up the road, it's a lot quicker.
Where and what?
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:20 AM   #5
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Thumbs up

It seems nobody wants to play in this thread. I’ll update it anyways for **** and giggles.

We went up for another day trip to Sugar Loaf this weekend. The plan was to do Harding’s Chimney (5.7 old school) and Dominion (5.10a). The weather was spectacular, the temperature on that side of the rock was perfect and the hike up hill still sucks.

First up was Harding’s Chimney. There’s a short pitch to get to the “official” start. I stated the day with that. I was told that that section went at 5.3 and I do believe somebody was telling fibs. I made a mistake of going up a little higher than I should have. It put me in a little cave right below the chimney. It made the gear exchange and getting by the belay for the next lead a little awkward. In hindsight it’s actually the better location. If the leader on the chimney pitch were to fall you wouldn’t be under him. You can easily run this pitch and the second pitch together in one long 180’ pitch without worrying about running out of gear. The second pitch doesn’t take any.

The second pitch is the crux of the climb. It’s a 5.7 squeeze chimney. The chimney runs about 80’ and there is essentially no pro unless you have a few big bro (the larger ones > 10”). We had two (blue and green) of them but only one of the big ones (blue). Even then it was almost fully extended. In any case I was extremely happy I did not have to lead that one. It starts with traversing out under an overhang. There are two pins located there to protect that. Then a couple of scary exposed moves at the lip of the over hang to get into the chimney. After my partner placed the big bro where he could get it, he essentially ran it out to the end (60’ run out). The bottom part of the chimney is the part that works you. The top part you can come out of it and climb a combination of knobs on the outside and good edges on the inside of the chimney. Warren Harding, you sir are one sick individual.

The third pitch (~5.6) is just plain fun. You climb up and left into a very wide chimney. It looks scary but there’s nothing to worry about here. There’s pro a plenty. It was nothing like the last pitch. There you head up fractured rock to a large block that is wedge into the chimney. Then climb the finger crack and face of the chimney on the right side. It only turns into a chimney near the top where it narrows. Even then you don’t have to chimney if you don’t want to. That was easily the best pitch on the climb. Fun moves with good pro and nothing scary.

The last pitch share the finishing pitches with Scheister. The only variation is that we finished it going straight up (~5.5) out of the cave instead of setting a belay and doing the short pitch that traverses to the right out of the cave. Going straight up is another chimney. But since we were doing Harding’s Chimney it seemed appropriate.

The decent is a walk off. Head straight back towards the hillside (north) and scramble down a tree. A little more scrambling after the tree and you’re down.

Last edited by StiDreams; 05-01-2007 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:21 AM   #6
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Thumbs up

After that we had a little lunch and move our gear to Dominion. This Climb is pure fun. The 5.7-5.8 variation on the left side does not get traffic. Itís pretty mossy over there. The 5.9 start on the left is the way to go. The beta in the guide book says pro to 3Ē. Bring one 4Ē cam. Youíll be glad you did.

The line is clean and the pro is solid and plentiful. The start is a left facing corner that are bomber hand jams and edges out on the arÍte for the right hand and feet. Then it turns into a 5.9 layback. At the end of the layback is a jug at the top. Behind that jug is where the 4Ē piece goes. It protects a hard move onto the face. No matter the starts it merges here. This is where the crux of the climb is. Its a few stemming/layback move. At the top thereís a good stance. Then thereís just one hard move to the right and itís essentially over. After that itís easy climbing for another 20í or so feet and itís over.

It ends at a pretty spectacular place. Right above you is a huge overhang that extends out 25í. And right above the anchor is the famous Grand Illusion (5.13c). I canít even imagine what it takes to do something like that. Some jackhole bolted it. Who the hell bolts a crack climb thatís been done. You do it in the style it was put up or not at all.

The decent is a set of rap anchors to the right of the climb. One 60 m rope will make it. There is also a set of anchors to the left of the climb. Itís the anchors for Telesis (5.11a). It requires 2 ropes to hit the bottom. Or you could break out some whoop ass and climb the Grand Illusion and descend by way of the walk off.
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:31 AM   #7
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maybe you should have said, OT climbers ON THE WEST COAST check in...
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:34 AM   #8
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I don't care which coast. It's just interesting to trade stories with other climbers. It would be cool for some BC and Gunk’s people to check in. A story or two from Rifle TX wouldn't hurt either.
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Old 05-01-2007, 10:53 AM   #9
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I'm hoping to make it up to Rumney, NH again this year. There's not a lot for multi-pitch out this way, but that's ok as I'm just fine with sport climbing. I should get to the Gunks at some point as well, and I really need to get out to Gloucester for some bouldering. It's been so nice out, I really need to get a bouldering pad so I can skip out on work and go have some fun.
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Old 05-01-2007, 11:15 AM   #10
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I am a climber / mountaineer. I pretty much do it all. Though I love rock climbing, I have a deep love of high-altitudes and cold-places as well. I have a climb of the North Face of Hood coming up as well as Jefferson and Mt. Washington in July. After that, it will be climbing for the rest of Summer over at Smith Rock.

I work at a climbing shop here in Eugene, Oregon. We are an online shop with walk-in location as well. PM me and I will give you the link to our site. We carry a LOT of high-end climbing equipment for sport / trad and soft-goods as well.
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Old 05-01-2007, 12:22 PM   #11
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Haven't done much climbing recently, but might be able to squeeze some in this summer. I did my first sport lead two summers ago at Skaha; hopefully I'll get back there this year.

Also did my first canyoneering last week in Zion. I could see how that would get addictive.



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Old 05-01-2007, 12:27 PM   #12
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I had a friend that just got back from a six month bouldering trip around the country. Too bad I could not go. Oh well, I'll be training for Bishop and Hueco this coming winter. Heading to Tennessee this weekend. Yeah, I play on pebbles.
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Old 05-01-2007, 12:34 PM   #13
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hey whats your preferred way of increasing grip strength? ive been doing 1 arm hangs close to 80% failure but concerned that it may be doing some damaged to the shoulders or elbows? shuld i be fine as long as i keep my arm from being locked stright? how long can you one arm hang?
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Old 05-01-2007, 12:47 PM   #14
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I've been working on increasing my grip strength by climbing pretty constantly for a long time. I think I'm going on 2yrs this summer. Tendons take a LONG time to get stronger, so you really have to take it slow for a while. You can jack up your forearms all you want, but it's just going to hurt your fingers in the long run. I'll usually climb till my fingers are burning, then call it a day. No finger injuries so far.
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Old 05-01-2007, 12:55 PM   #15
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Hereís me and Tom getting ready to start Hardingís Chimney. Unfortunately I didnít bring up the camera for Hardingís Chimney. It was probably a good thing since I would have destroyed it on the squeeze chimney pitch anyways.





Hereís a pretty decent picture of Dominion. The person on it is the second for another party. Heís almost to the crux.



This is almost the same picture but it gives a better look at the roof above and the Grand Illusion itself. Itís the crack on the left side of the roof.

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Old 05-01-2007, 12:58 PM   #16
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more alpine style here

The Grand (Teton) and Mt Moran in 3 mos

heading up to yellowstone and glacier NP too (but no climbing or even hiking there)
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Old 05-01-2007, 02:29 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enozto View Post
hey whats your preferred way of increasing grip strength? ive been doing 1 arm hangs close to 80% failure but concerned that it may be doing some damaged to the shoulders or elbows? shuld i be fine as long as i keep my arm from being locked stright? how long can you one arm hang?
Are you referring specifically to crimp strength, or pinch/open strength? For finger strength, I use small campus rungs with a combination of ladder exercises. If you do the arm hangs, make sure you do them open hand and combine them with pushups so you don't overload your pull muscles. Open hand is the key here for the campus rungs and dead hangs. I carry a gripper around for pinch strength. Use larger rungs if you are a novice. As effective as these exercises are, climbing many different styles of problems is much more beneficial.
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Old 05-01-2007, 03:14 PM   #18
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I gotta get back into climbing, now that I only live about an hour from North Conway.
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Old 05-01-2007, 05:03 PM   #19
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Do you guys have any good resources for climbing techniques? I need better moves so that I can climb more elegantly and conserve my energy.
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Old 05-01-2007, 05:38 PM   #20
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i used to climb .. allot.. then fell gym climbing ending up with all my weight on my left ring finger stretching the tendons.. i type for a living .. so that was the end of that sport
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:53 AM   #21
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Yesterday we headed for Loverís Leap in Strawberry CA on highway 50. Weíve been trying to get here the past few trips but ended up at sugarloaf instead. This time we figured that there couldnít possibly be any snow left on the ledges and the campground parking would be open. We were half right. No snow but no parking. We ended parking on the street right after the turnoff for the campground. Itís public parking right there. Theyíre (forestry services) using the maintenance excuse to keep it closed.

The target climbs were Haystack (5.8) and The Line (5.9). Both are repeats. Weíve been on Haystack plenty of times before but The Line weíve only been on once with me leading the crux pitches on both climbs. This time my partner is going to do all the hard stuff. He wants to start on Haystack and then if he feels strong heíll lead the Line. As we get closer heís getting more and more apprehensive. Iím hoping he doesnít back of off either.

We get there and the Leap is in prime climbing condition and as usual there is a line at Haystack. Thereís a party of three and theyíre planning on being slow. So off to the Line we go. We get there and find it empty. Itís very unusual to find thereís not a line at the Line. He starts talking about how Heíll try his best and yada yada yada Ö I tell him heís trying to talk himself out of it and thereís no way thatís happening, in other words **** and climb.

The first pitch of the line is the crux. Thereís two hard spot on this pitch. One is about 20í off the ground where you have to work your feet up so you can reach a decent hold. Then smear you way up to another set of holds just higher. After you reach them you work your feet up to the first set of holds. Not terribly hard but itís a little in your head as youíre right above the deck but the pro is good. Pretty much after the first 10í of the climb thereís pro anywhere you want it. Above this the climbing eases and hand holds and good foot holds abound. But it never turns into a give-me. You work for every foot you get. The next crux is almost at the end where you switch from climbing on the right of the crack to climbing in the crack. The good feet disappears and thereís a couple of tenuous moves. After that itís over.

The second pitch goes at a solid 5.8 with one really hard move. I would say itís almost a .9 move but the holds are huge. Itís a three foot overhang with a good dyke at its lip and another one about a foot up. You pull them and then mantel off them. It feels pretty dicey. And the final pitch is also a solid 5.7. It ends with a small roof that you have to undercling and walk your feet way up. You end up with your body almost parallel to the ground and then reach way up to some good jugs. What spectacular end to three of the best pitches of climbing anywhere.

We do the walk off and move our gear to Haystack. Thereís a party ahead of us but itís not a big deal because weíre going to stop and eat anyways. That and lines are just a fact of life at Loverís Leap. The party ahead of us take off and while theyíre on the first pitch and weíre eating three more parties walk by asking if weíre next. They all move on.

The first pitch of haystack is easy climbing with good pro everywhere. Itís just good fun. It ends at a ~4íx4í ledge about 40í below the roof. The second pitch is the crux pitch with a couple of thin moves 20í off the belay and the four foot roof. The roof is the crux of this climb. You get under it and stem to the left then you move left. Near the lip reach into the crack on the left of it and grab the ďsecretĒ hold. If you canít find it then reach way up to a solid hand jamb. Cross with your right hand to the jug, pull hard and grunt a couple of times and itís over. If youíre on a 60 m rope climb past the traditional belay stance for another 40í and thereís another stance in a wide crack, about one foot wide, with a couple of blocks in it. If you go up to here the climb can be done in three pitches instead of the tradition three and a quarter. It makes the second pitch about 130í long and the third pitch about 130í long. The third pitch is the fun pitch in the climb. It ends with a few small overhangs. You can avoid the over hang by traversing right about 30í. I highly recommend that you do them as theyíre really fun to pull and itís just the natural line for that climb.

What a spectacular day. Six pitches of some of the best climbing that can be had anywhere.

NOTE: Eagles are nesting and Eagleís buttress is off limits.
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Old 05-27-2007, 06:41 PM   #22
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Yesterday was a bonus climbing day. I didn’t really plan for it but I talked my climbing partner into a short half-day trip to Mt. St. Helena. We’re headed for a rock on the side of the mountain called the Bear. It’s the tallest rock on the mountain. Even then I would consider it short cragging. The climbs at the bear are about 70’ to 90’ tall with a couple that run almost a full 50 m rope. It doesn’t see much traffic because the barrier to entry is .9 but they’re pretty stout for the grade. Even then there’s only a few at that grade. The rest of it is hard with only a couple of .10s and the rest being .11s or harder. It’s a cool place to go because it sees very little use. You have the rock to yourself for the most part.

I wanted to go up to the Bear and do Arete (.10b) and a .9 (adjacent to “Black Hole Sun”, not in my “Bay Area Rock Climbing, Thornburg) climb adjacent to it. My partner led the .9 last time and we top roped the Arete next to it. I fell like I could do the Arete on lead and wanted to do the .9 just because it was so much fun on follow. My buddy wanted to do the climb on the Bear called the Bear (.10- wide crack). I wasn’t sure I wanted to lug all that trad gear up the mountain for a single pitch. I gave in because that’s was the only thing he wanted to do out of this trip.

It’s a warm day on the mountain. It’s in the high 80’s but there’s a breeze. We get up there and slog up the last quarter mile (up hill bush whacking over scree). We get there and stop to catch our breath and take in a little food and water before we start. Then it’s time to go to it.

First up is the bear. It is a wide crack requiring at the very least four big pieces. We had a couple of 4", a couple of 3” cams (I recommend 4-3" pieces) and one of each with dups. on the .75” to 1.5”. My partner starts to flake the rope and tells me to gear up. I’m looking at him like I thought YOU wanted to lead this thing. What he really meant was he wanted to climb it but he wanted me to lead it. I rack up and start up. It’s easy going for the first 30 or so feet. Then it turns wide and vertical. The jamming is what I would call loose fists with the occasional bomber hand. The rock is sharp and the crack is wide. It’s just plain mean. By the time you get to the crux you’re pretty pumped. Then it’s time to negotiate the slight overhang. The problem is the good jam is deep inside the crack and you have to go to a couple of less desirable holds on the nearer to the outside and use some crimps on the face. The route also leans out there about ten degrees past vertical and the decent feet that got you there is now gone. To top it all off since it over hangs there you really can’t see where to place your feet. Once you get past the bulge there’s a nice bucket to pull but you’re still a little on overhanging terrain. A couple more jams and you’re back over your feet again. All in all about fifty to sixty feet of solid .9 with a couple of .10- moves thrown in for good measure. The moves aren’t terribly technically difficult but they’re just a bear. I would have to say it was my hardest lead to date. My partner makes it up with a fall at the overhang but he’s none the worse for wear. He’s elated that we’ve done the climb and I tell him next time he’s taking the lead on this one.

The Bear:



We’re pretty much on top of the rock at this point but we can’t hit the ground with a rappel because we only have one rope. It’s not a problem as the climbs next to this one only goes half way up to a ledge and there are rappel anchors there. We rap down to the ledge and decide to do the two .9 that we just rappelled down on top-rope. We tried to lead them last time we were here and they were a little more stout than anticipated. We bailed after the second bolt. Neither one of us wanted to do the crux move that was going to be the very least ledge landing if you don’t make the move. One of the guys present said that the guy who put it up rated it .9 so people wouldn’t be discouraged from climbing them. He said they probably go somewhere in the .10- range. This time it’s a little different. The top rope takes out the bad fall potential and makes things a lot more stress free. My partner is up first and he makes it through the crux this time and finishes up without any issues. I’m up next and I get thought it without a problem on top-rope. I do the next one immediately and it goes about the same. Then my partner does the second one. They’re both nice climbs. Short (60’), good crimps, pockets, and thin in a couple places with the bolts spaces out about 10’ to 12’ apart. I don’t have their names. My guide book is too old.

We make the rappel to the ground after top-roping. I’m still pretty pumped from the Bear and it’s getting to be about 1:00 in the afternoon. It’s a good excused to bail on the .10b and the .9 I had wanted to bag. I didn’t have it in me by that point anyways. It’s been a good morning and we pack it in.

Last edited by StiDreams; 05-27-2007 at 11:09 PM.
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Old 06-11-2007, 10:22 AM   #23
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Yesterday the plan was to go to Donner Summit (near Truckee, CA). The climb I’ve been eyeing for years but have yet to do due to injuries or other circumstances (not being strong enough) is One Hand Clapping (5.9). That’s my target. Tom picks a climb called Inside Out (5.8). It’s an interesting climb with a chimney that goes a full pitch behind a giant detached flake. What’s with this guy and chimneys? The two climb combine for a total of seven pitches. It’s going to be a long day. Tom is driving and shows up at 5:10 AM. I chug my coffee and we load his truck and off we go.

One Hand Clapping is one of the recommended routs on the Black Wall. It is three pitches long on beautiful granite with pro pretty much anywhere you want it. The first pitch goes at 5.8 and from the road it looks like a pretty stout leaning book. But as you approach you can see that it’s more like a slot that’s about feet wide and three feet deep with cracks going inward on both sides. They look like beautiful hand jams. It’s looking much less strenuous and more like it’s going to be one hell of a fun pitch. As it turns out it was both. The start is relatively mellow but it turns vertical fast and the moves to get into the slot is relatively stout. But after that it’s bomber hands. Still strenuous but hand jams you can hang from. It goes like this for some time and eases off near the end.

The second pitch is the crux pitch with the one hand clapping move on it. I was a little leery about this but I wanted to do this climb so I’m doing the crux. The start of the pitch is a 30’ finger crack that is near vertical. This is section goes at .8 and is pretty strenuous. I couldn’t get good finger locks. For me it was loose fingers, my least favorite type of cracks. I end up having to lay it back and was pumped at the top of the crack. You get to the top and it looks like it’s going to ease up but it just turns awkward. There’s a good hand jam but it puts you further away from the bucket you want to reach (probably not a problem for taller climbers). After that it’s easy sailing for a little bit. You’re on lower angel terrain with good stances for plugging in gear. Then you reach an overhang but fortunately you don’t have to pull it. You move onto a ramp to the left but there’s a bulge above it that forces you off the ramp and onto the steep face adjacent to it. You can stay on the ramp and pull on crimps on the bulge and slap (clap) for hand jams near your feet but it makes the moves strong and overhanging. Or you can look to see where the first good jam is, grab the first crimp on the bulge, sink the jam, and step off the ramp onto the steep face with tiny nubs on it. They you can traverse lower with your feet and are almost face level with the ramp and clearly see all the bomber hand jams. It was one or two hard moves and it was over. It was easier than the finger crack but just a little headier. The run out to the lizard ledge isn’t bad and can be shortened by following a crack to the right.

The last pitch goes at 5.6 and is just fun. It does have one move where you negotiate yet another bulge on loose hands. You pull the move and go “damn that’s one thought 5.6 move”. In all it was a stellar climb and well worthy of its status as a recommended route.

After that Tom was pretty gassed and was not in the mood to do another climb. It’s Sunday, I bagged the climb I came for and it’s after noon so I figure no biggie. If we hop on Inside Out we’re not going to get off of it until well after five o’clock. Tomorrow is a work day and this way we get home early.
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Old 06-11-2007, 10:44 AM   #24
gongzero
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We used to do some gym climbing but that kinda stopped for reasons I can't even recall. I never did much better than consistent 5.9s and maybe a couple of 5.10 climbs.

I just put my Metolius hangboard up. I think it's high time I got back into climbing shape and start a little light mountaineering too! This thread is just the inspiration I needed.


-A
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Old 06-11-2007, 10:56 AM   #25
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I'm glad I can help. I'm in the rock gym a couple of times a week. The 5.10 plateau is tough nut to crack. The only way I was able to do it is to hit the weights and do lots of cardio. I’m at the 11’s in the gym and have tried some of the 12’s. I think I’m maxed out at the 11’s. I don’t have enough time to dedicate to it so I can do 12’s. It’s not really my goal anyways. I just want to be comfortable leading trad .10’s outside. If I can string together a bunch of 5.10 pitches then I think I can put together a real bid for a big wall.
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