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Old 04-25-2007, 02:23 PM   #1
Jay04WRX
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Default Which synthetic oil to use?

I know there has prob been threads on this but I did search and didnt find much.

So to start I use mobile 1 full synthetic 10w-30 and it has been working ok. I have noticed sometimes when I shift gears the RPM's increase slightly. I do not know if thats me not knowing how to drive / shift or if its the oil being touchy & slippery. For now I will blame it on my driving and shifting. I was wondering if that has happened to anyone else? If so please let me know. I have also noticed either the oil breaks down fast or my motor is eating some oil.

Anyhow I was wondering what is claimed to be the best synthetic oil for the WRX or which oil the WRX likes the most. I know alot of it is preference also. I am doing my 60k tune-up and I am looking into switching engine oil.


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Old 04-25-2007, 02:33 PM   #2
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what's up Bro, go with Castrol 5w/30 full synthec, to me is the best........ I used Castrol on all my cars and it is great .
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Old 04-25-2007, 03:54 PM   #3
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why not 10W-40? it's getting hotter in these upcoming months. i know that 10W-30 is the suggested oil viscosity, but it seems like the engine could use some higher temp oil.
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Old 04-25-2007, 09:35 PM   #4
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www.torcooil.com
ive used mobil 1 syn....burns
castrol syn same deal...as with royal purple and Motul
I finally tried out Torco SR5 synthetic...expensive as hell but for what i got, i figure the extra 30 bux...it wouldnt hurt. got the 5w 40 and not a drop burned off yet. For a stocker id go with the SR1 its a bit cheaper. on a side note, their trans and diff oil rock too
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Old 04-25-2007, 11:08 PM   #5
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dude royal purple is the best sh!@ out there...i have put it in my jetta past 2 oil changes and i have got an extra 50 miles to a tank!!!! i am going to start putting it in the suby since im getting it out from winter and the transmission is back together.....try it and youll love it!!!!
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Old 04-26-2007, 08:31 AM   #6
Jay04WRX
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can you buy royal purple only online or do places like pep boys and autozone carry it? How much does it normally cost for the royal purple? I have heard about this oil before...



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Old 04-26-2007, 12:53 PM   #7
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check autozone if they have german castrol 0w30.. this is what i am using..and love it..
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Old 04-27-2007, 03:14 PM   #8
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I heard royal purple is the best by far... how much quarts should i buy for my 07 Sti for one oil change?
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:16 PM   #9
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royal purple is available at pep boys...my wrx says it takes 5 but just add and check thats the best way !!!
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:31 PM   #10
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According to the American Petroleum Institute (API), Royal Purple grades 5W-20 and 5W-30 are only rated SL, a category, according to API's Engine Oil Guide (PDF), is "For 2004 and older automobile engines" ... interestingly, Royal Purple's 5W-40 is rated SM (current 2005-2007 category).



"Royal Purple uses a different chemistry than most. They are one of only a handful of marketers using Moly in their oil. Moly is a solid, specifically banned by Cummins [Engine Company], due to excessive valve train wear.

Moly (Molybdenum Disulfide) is a processed mineral that is similar in appearance to graphite. Moly has good lubricating properties when used either by itself (in dry power form or as an additive to oil or other lubricants). Particles of the Moly can come out of suspension and agglomerate. This can actually clog oil filters or oil lines and the rest normally settles in the bottom of the oil pan. This seems to be more likely when using extended drain intervals. The only test we ran on RP involved their 20W50 Racing oil versus our AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 20W50 Racing Oil (TRO). We ran two 4 ball wear tests with different parameters, a spectrographic baseline, FTIR scan and volatility tests. The Royal Purple showed a significantly high volatility rate with a 12.51% boil off rate. This compares to TRO with a 4.47% volatility rating. Wear scars were also smaller with the TRO. For example the TRO left a .41mm scar and the RP oil left a .66mm scar. There was also a surprising difference in the viscosity index. The RP has a VI of 129 versus 155 for the TRO. The higher the VI, the better the viscosity stays in place at high temperatures.
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Old 04-27-2007, 04:53 PM   #11
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Amsoil is my favorite engine oil...check out their comparison data at their website. Bottom line is preference, though.

I don't think the brand of oil is going to make RPM surge during/after shifting. Do you mean the RPMs jump a bit when you push the clutch in?
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Old 04-27-2007, 05:18 PM   #12
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These oil debates can go on for ages and ages. A good oil is a good oil...castrol, royal purple, torco...

In all honesty most of us sti drivers dont even need a synthetic oil. In fact, as stated, it tends to be too thin and not lubricate as it should. The thing to concentrate on is oil changes like clock work with a noteworthy oil...that will keep your car running as it should with optimal performance. Not paying way too much for fancy oil. Most of us are not driving race cars.

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Old 04-28-2007, 06:02 PM   #13
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I've posted this before, but I'll do it again just for he hell of it. I had the same question a while ago, so I did alot of research and came up with this:

Motor Oil Specs

Viscosity at XXX C - Self explanatory, the viscosity of the oil at said temp. A lower value at low temp is better as it means the oil will flow easier during start-up. A higher value at high temp is better as it means the oil is maintaining its protection abilities (a thin oil will not protect well at all under stress).

Viscosity Index - Rates oils ability to maintain a viscosity over a wide range of temperatures. A higher value is better, and should not be below 130.

Flash Point - Temp at which the oil vaporizes sufficiently for it to ignite. Obviously, a higher flash point is better, and it should not fall below 400 F.

CCS - Cold Crank simulator. This tests an oils ability to start well at cold temps. This is basically a viscosity rating. A lower value is better, but take into account that testing is done at different temps, so it is difficult to compare.

HTHS - High Temp High Sheer. A highly useful test that simulates oil sheer and stress under running-engine conditions at 150 C. A higher value is better, as it shows that anoil will keep a consistent viscosity even under increased temp and stress.

NOAK - A test where the oil is monitored for one hour in a 250 C environment. The rating is the percentage of the oil that evaporates in this time. Lower is better, as it shows that the oil will not vaporize and degrade under extreme temp situations. For the numbers of this taken from the Oil Bible Document, there were way too many 13% values for it to be accurate. I think that the info. Was unavailable and this is a safe assumption, but it most likely is not the actual value.

Oil Bible Rating - The author of the oil bible document (link found in the Oil FAQ) rates oils by plugging the different test values into a formula that produces a number that shows the overall quality of the oil. Higher is better, as it represents a solid performance over the range of tests. In all truth, I am not sure how it works or how accurate it is, but the guy who does it knows his stuff, and I though I would include it anyway.

Redline Synthetic 5w30
Viscosity @ 100 C - 10.6
Viscosity @ 40 C - 62
Viscosity Index – 162
Flash Point – 486 F, 252 C
CCS – 6000 @ -30 C
HTHS @ 150 C – 3.8
NOAK – 6%
Oil Bible Rating – 707
High quality oil, posts some good numbers and is highly recommended by many on various sites. This is one of the two oils I am considering for my car.

Redline Synthetic 10w30
Viscosity @ 100 C – 10.7
Viscosity @ 40 C – 70
Viscosity Index – 142
Flash Point – 480 F, 250 C
CCS – 6500 @ -25 C
HTHS @ 150 C – 3.8
NOAK – 6%
Oil Bible Rating – 710
I had originally planned on using this in my car, but after comparing, the 5w30 seems like a better oil overall. I found this odd. However, this is still a very nice oil.

Amsoil ASL 5w30
Viscosity @ 100 C – 10.6
Viscosity @ 40 C – 57.3
Viscosity Index – 178
Flash Point – 442 F, 228 C
CCS – 5254 @ -30 C
HTHS – 3.2
NOAK – 6.6%
Oil Bible Rating – 759
Both Amsoils impressed me with their numbers. These are as good, and probably better than Redline oils in my opinion. The problem with them is that they have to be ordered.

Amsoil ATM 10w30
Viscosity @ 100 C – 10.7
Viscosity @ 40 C – 59.8
Viscosity Index – 171
Flash Point – 442 F, 228 C
CCS – 4020 @ -25 C
HTHS – 3.2
NOAK – 5.4 %
Oil Bible Rating – 742
Very nice oil. Unlike Redline, the 10w30 seems to be just as good as the 5w30, but the minimal extra high temp protection is still odd.

Castrol Synthetic 0w30 (German Castrol)
Viscosity @ 100 C – 12.1 (Oil Bible)
Viscosity @ 40 C – ?
Viscosity Index – 175 (Oil Bible)
Flash Point – 437 F (Oil Bible)
CCS – 6200 @ -35 C
HTHS – 2.95 (Oil Bible)
NOAK – 13% (Oil Bible)
Oil Bible Rating – 686
This oil is considered a Magical Elixir by many on BITOG. Looks like very nice stuff, gets good reviews and UOAs, but Castrol’s uninformative spec sheets have me wondering a little bit. Still, if I don’t go with Redline, it will probably be with this.

Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 (Delvac)
Viscosity @ 100 C – 14.8
Viscosity @ 40 C – 102
Viscosity Index – 151
Flash Point – 226 C
CCS – 6600 @ -30 C (Oil Bible)
HTHS – 2.90 (Oil Bible)
NOAK – 13% (Oil Bible)
Oil Bible Rating – 682
Used by Truckers on long hauls, this is a good oil but is hard to find. I’d heard about it and decided to look it up, and I may try it in the future.

Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30
Viscosity @ 100 C – 11.3
Viscosity @ 40 C – 64.8
Viscosity Index – 169
Flash Point – 230 C
CCS – 6600 @ -30 C (Oil Bible)
HTHS – 3.09
NOAK – 13% (Oil Bible)
Oil Bible Rating – 684
Very popular oil that is widely used, and apparently for good reason. Good scores and universally available. I used this in my first oil change, and it did very well, but I did notice a about Ύ quart consumption over ~8500 miles.

Royal Purple synthetic 5w30
Viscosity @ 100 C – 11.0
Viscosity @ 40 C – 65.3
Viscosity Index – 161
Flash Point – 455 F
CCS – 6600 @ -30 C
HTHS – 2.9 (Oil Bible)
NOAK – 13% (Oil Bible)
Oil Bible Rating – 645
I have this in my engine right now. I’ve been running it for 6,000 miles. I’ve noticed a little more consumption than I would have expected (around Ύ quart), and mileage seems to have dropped a tiny bit. A good oil, but I think there is better for the money.

My Observations: It is hard to tell which is the best oil out of these, even with the specs to compare against each other. Some oils outperform the others in one area, only to perform worse than the others in another area. One trend I did notice is that the 5w30 oils seem to perform better than the 10w30 oils in most areas. I found this very surprising, as I thought 10w30 had no additives and was as stable as you could get.
On the whole though, it seems that if you buy a quality synthetic oil in the correct weight for your application, you probably won’t be able to tell a difference. Which is what everyone has known from the beginning. Hmm…. Almost makes this seem like a waste of time.

PLEASE NOTE: The above values came from two sources: the spec. sheets available on the respective manufacturer’s website, and the Oil Bible Document, which has a table that lists the specs of almost every oil ever made. The specs listed are those from the manufacturers except the ones that say Oil Bible next to them. This means the company did not provide that spec on the oil’s sheet. This should be taken into account, as there is usually a reason a company does not release a certain test result.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:33 PM   #14
Rexwagon03
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i use royal purple and i like it
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:17 PM   #15
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Thanks for the information, Crashman. Great writeup.
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Old 04-30-2007, 01:44 AM   #16
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You guys may want to do a search on the Royal Purple before using. I've seen too many horror stories to touch the stuff.

I run Mobil 1 0w30 in the engine and Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 in my tranny and diff. As was said, what's best could be argued all day long. For me Mobil 1's got a great full synthetic, one of the few companies out there that actually has a real Group IV synthetic oil versus a quasi-synthetic petrolium based Group III "synthetic," synthetic by name(and price) but only because of being a very clean petrolium based oil, higher than the standards defined by the Group II category that most oils fall under. I just used Amsoil's Severe Gear after reading a lot of positive responses and from looking at manufacture specs between a lot of the "best" options. The biggest plus for me is that Amsoil has the lowest cold pour point, meaning it stays a pourable liquid at colder temps than pretty much any other tranny fluid, a nice to have aspect for Minnesota winters. 30,000 miles later and still loving it.

I too did notice some oil consumption during the hot summer months when I first switched to synthetic, but moving to 0w40 fixed that. Last fall and during winter, I saw no loss using 0w30. I'm going to try a stint through summer again with 0w30 and see how well it holds up. Maybe it was the heat or maybe it was the initial move to synthetic. Last fall stayed decently warm, and I had no consumption issues, so not sure.

As a note, you should not run the PAO type Group IV full synthetics for extended periods of time. The polymer chains used are very long, much longer than the polymer chains used in conventional oil. They tend to get pulled appart more easily because of their size. The end result are smaller chains and a lower "hot" viscosity. Your 5w30 you started with 6000 miles ago may only be a 5w20 now. You'd have to run a 5w40 just to let you run that many miles without dropping below the "hot" viscosity of a 30 weight oil. Besides lack of protection, you'll also notice more oil consumption. It's just good to stick to 3,000 or 5,000 miles if the driving isn't harsh. Usually, you'll see the oil stay pretty steady, then at some point, the levels will start dropping off more quickly. If it was dropping from day one, you want to up your "hot" viscosity, go from a 5w30 to a 5w40 to maintain a thicker oil during hot operation. If it stays for 3,500 miles and one day starts to plumet, you probably want to change oil.
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Old 04-30-2007, 01:21 PM   #17
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When I bought the car @ 78k miles the prev. owner had a bunch of mobil 1 receipts and seemed to keep the interval pretty consistant on a basically unmodified engine (just a catback). All cylinders where within <20psi of each other and healthy when I checked shortly after buying. Boost has always been healthy and stable (tuned to 16.5psi dropping to 11.5 toward redline), and the original turbo still has nearly no shaft play.

Keeping tradition I use:
-Mobil 1 0w30. Switched to Mobil 1 High Milage 10w40 @ 89k miles (higher milage and summers get 110+ degrees here). Used again on Saturday for a 2nd time... very happy with it.
-$23 at wal-mart for a 5qt. jug
-Standard Fram oil filter
-Change religiously between 4-5k miles.

94k miles on the engine now, no notciable oil consumption at all in between changes (I check fluids weekly), runs smooth.

Just use a decent brand name motor oil and change it within its recommended interval, take good care of keeping all fluids as fresh as recommended, don't push OMG power increases and your EJ will last a long long time. Honestly, as long as the interval is good, I see little point in spending extra cash on an oil that probably doesn't make much difference.

PS: Is this the right forum for this subject?

Last edited by jhargis; 04-30-2007 at 02:35 PM.
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