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Old 04-27-2007, 07:13 PM   #1
cucamelsmd15
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Default Oil pressure sender on an 06+ (possibly 04+ STi). A How-To guide. (56k, keep kicking)

I got my gauges from Prosport (thanks to Ken (WRXBrakes) and Dan at Mach V!). Anyhow, I did a fair bit of searching around for answers of whether the sender unit would fit in the rear galley location, and got mixed answers... lots of mixed answers. I attempted to do this install twice, the first not going so well. The reasons are in the pictures. Not one to wait, lets get started...

First, remove the intercooler. In the event that you cant figure out how to do this, you probably shouldnt be screwing around under the hood of your car

This is what your engine bay will look like with it gone:

Ok, two important things circled here. First, the galley plug with the allen wrench in it. See the green stuff? Its coolant. You have to remove a coolant line, the nipple is the other thing circled.

The coolant line:

The easiest thing to do with the BPV is to just flop it over. Now that the ^ coolant line is out of the way, you can move it:

Now, unless you want coolant from that line pouring into your block, you need to remove the coolant from around the plug. Enter, air duster:

Ok, the plug is in there, TIGHT. I really thought I was going to snap the allen wrench before I broke it loose both times Ive done this. There are two methods for doing this Ive found work well, the latter works the best for me:

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Last edited by cucamelsmd15; 04-27-2007 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 04-27-2007, 07:14 PM   #2
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Ok, now that the drain plug is out, we can proceed. I used a relocation kit from wrxtra.com, and Ill explain why in a bit. Here we are, tightening down the block adapter. Sorry, no pics of the adapter.

Ok, this is the part where I started forgetting to take pics, because it was getting to be a pain in the ass. Using this picture for reference:

Notice that directly to the right of the galley plug is a hard line, this runs to the turbo. Directly to the left of the galley plug is a PCV line. Neither of these lines can be moved. The problem that most people with an 06+ or possibly 04+ STi are going to encounter here is that a 1.5 inch diameter sender unit simply wont fit between these two things. This is the #1 reason why I had to buy the relocation kit. The sender unit for Defi's, at least to my understanding, is smaller and more narrow. That may fit, I dont know. I cant speak for Daddy's or Autometer gauges either. This is what stopped me dead in my tracks the first time. Moreover, the nipple for the coolant line extends almost directly over the galley plug. This doesnt bode well if you have a sender more than 1/2 inch high. Enter the WRXtra kit. It uses a stainless steel braided line to relocate the sender. Once I got the block adapter in, it was smooth sailing, so I thought. The instructions say to use a crows foot to turn the line into the block adapter, which would be great, except that there isnt room to get it in there. I used a 7/16ths wrench, and literally turned it 1/6th of a turn for about an hour until it was tight. No black magic to this, you just have to put the wrench where it can get on the nut, and turn it as far as you can.

Now, replace the intercooler, screw the sender unit in, and youre basically done. Wire it up, and youre good to go!

Here Ive circled the sender unit, and also the braided line that now comes out from under the IC:

And a good shot of the final product:


Hopefully this helps someone, and answers some questions about this issue.

Last edited by cucamelsmd15; 04-27-2007 at 07:28 PM.
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Old 04-27-2007, 09:44 PM   #3
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Nice write up. Is there a reason you didn't use a sandwich adapter instead?
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Old 04-27-2007, 09:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brain juice View Post
Nice write up. Is there a reason you didn't use a sandwich adapter instead?
No real use for a sandwich adapter, unless youre doing pressure and temp. Other than that, Ive never liked sandwich adapters.
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:03 PM   #5
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My bad, I thought the galley plug was for those.
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Old 04-27-2007, 10:47 PM   #6
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nice write up, I tried the sandwich adapter from Prosport on my 06 WRX and it wouldn't fit.
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:07 PM   #7
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Nice write-up, always good to show fellow Suby owners the DIY method.
As far as oil pressure installs I do, at work, pretty much all Japanese sending units (Greddy, Defi), will fit under the alternator.
I simply move the alternator out of the way, and use a 3-way brass tee, and the factory idiot-light sensor at 90 degree part, and the sending unit on top.
BUt Autometer sending units will NOT work, and we stock relocation kits, which is a 3-way brass unit and a steel-braided line(w/ the required fittings). We usually put it over by the coolant resevoir... but does depend on the length of line we use.
Good work!
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Old 04-27-2007, 11:09 PM   #8
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Bravo! I originally bought a sandwich adapter- didn't fit due to the oil pan/manifold situation with the 06. I then did exactly as you did moving the hoses and as I have a breaker bar and hex head socket in there I stripped the galley plug. I was pushing as hard as I could with the wrench and it just wouldn't budge. Big bummer for me... I am now going to remove the alternator and use that galley plug. Anyone know how to take off the alternator easily and put it back on?
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Old 04-28-2007, 02:14 AM   #9
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can u please show were the other part of the coolant line is connected? why do you need to remove it? im guessing its so you can sping the wrench and get to the gally plug. anything important we need to know when re-installing the line?

what kinda of pressure readings are u getting with the relocator?
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Old 04-28-2007, 02:56 AM   #10
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It is connected right under the throttle body hose to your IC. Instead of removing it entirely, I just pulled the throttle body part off slowly and I didn't have any coolant spillage whatsoever. Then you can just pull it back just like the BPV hose.

Be warned- the galley plug is in there tight and really be wary of stripping it. I don't think it's a super high grade metal.
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Old 04-28-2007, 09:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattPersman View Post
nice write up, I tried the sandwich adapter from Prosport on my 06 WRX and it wouldn't fit.
See, this is the thing I cant figure out. People are using them, I just dont know how. Theres hardly enough room there, if youve changed your own oil, you know this. The Greddy may fit better. Besides, most the ones Ive ever seen start leaking at some point, which is why I wanted to avoid it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I Love Boobies View Post
can u please show were the other part of the coolant line is connected? why do you need to remove it? im guessing its so you can sping the wrench and get to the gally plug. anything important we need to know when re-installing the line?

what kinda of pressure readings are u getting with the relocator?
The other nipple is directly behind the throttle body on the drivers side. You need to remove it because it wraps around the BPV line (at least it did on my car), and keeps you from moving it. When reinstalling, just make sure its on there

As far as readings, I see 100+, basically limit of the gauge on startup, but once warm I see 30-35psi at idle, 80-90 at a 70mph cruise, and 100 on full throttle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sperry7 View Post
It is connected right under the throttle body hose to your IC. Instead of removing it entirely, I just pulled the throttle body part off slowly and I didn't have any coolant spillage whatsoever. Then you can just pull it back just like the BPV hose.

Be warned- the galley plug is in there tight and really be wary of stripping it. I don't think it's a super high grade metal.
Removing the TB is a heck of alot of work though... but I agree about the plug, I thought I was going to break it twice when I was doing this.
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:48 AM   #12
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ha ha ha no way did I remove the throttle body ! I said you could just remove the hose from the throttle body and leave it connected to the block and just move it aside like the BPV hose.
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Old 04-28-2007, 12:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
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ha ha ha no way did I remove the throttle body ! I said you could just remove the hose from the throttle body and leave it connected to the block and just move it aside like the BPV hose.



I totally missed that this morning, but I was fresh out of bed. You could just pull the top part off, but its easier to get the socket in there with the extra clearance.
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:34 AM   #14
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did you have to bleed the air out of the hose to get proper readings? I made my own relocation kit with a grease gun high pressure hose, and have tried to bleed the air out, but i still get some wonky readings on the oil pressure gauge. I installed a maddad clarity v2. I am thinking i am going to have to change the hose to something with a larger ID than the grease gun hose.
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:44 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoenix_wrx View Post
did you have to bleed the air out of the hose to get proper readings? I made my own relocation kit with a grease gun high pressure hose, and have tried to bleed the air out, but i still get some wonky readings on the oil pressure gauge. I installed a maddad clarity v2. I am thinking i am going to have to change the hose to something with a larger ID than the grease gun hose.
No, I didnt bleed the hose at all. At first, my readings were really jumpy, probably because of the air in the line, but they are fine now. I just drove it for about half an hour to get the air out.
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Old 04-29-2007, 12:40 PM   #16
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I have never gotten steady readings out of this gauge. Sometimes it will drop to zero once the oil is warm, but during normal driving the reading moves around from 50-90 psi. This is the second sender i have tried. I am thinking of switching to another gauge, as Maddad seems to have an issue with their oil pressure sender. I just bled it again, and i will see if that makes a difference.
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Old 04-29-2007, 03:30 PM   #17
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how do u recomend bleeding the line?
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Old 04-29-2007, 03:35 PM   #18
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take the wires off the sender, start your engine and then slowly back off the sender from the hose, while keeping a rag under to collect dripping oil. Make sure you retighten when done, so you have no oil leaks. Then reconnect the wires. I am not sure if this does anything, as the oil would drain back into the block when the engine is off, but it is worth trying to see if it improves the sensor's reading.
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Old 05-31-2008, 09:03 PM   #19
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Default good wrtie up

i used this to over come the troubles i had finding the galley plug. my coolant hose also was trapping the bvp hose in place. for what its worth i had to use a crows foot and an open end wrench (7/16) to turn in the line on the WRXtra relocator kit too.
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Old 06-01-2008, 02:36 PM   #20
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I followed this write-up but did some stuff slightly different. I took off the coolant hose first and just let it drip out. Took some paper towels and stuffed it down to absorb the coolant. I used an 8mm 3/8" Drive Hex Bit Socket and a long extension to take out the gallery plug. Regular socket to tighten the new gallery plug. And slip joint pliers to tighten down the sender. Everything is tight and without leaks so far.
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Old 06-19-2008, 01:39 PM   #21
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I put the line into the plug first and tightened it, and then used a 17mm crow's foot to tightend the galley plug. I actually left the intercooler in the car just unbolted it and shifted it back. i ran my line across next to my turbo and bolted the sender next to my BCS. Oh and it is much easier to use 3/8" 8mm hex socket instead of a normal allen wrench. the socket is like 6 bucks at sears. i see pegged at startup, once it was warm idle was around 40, and it would go back up to around 100 when driving.
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Old 06-19-2008, 02:11 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hypoxvi View Post
...a 17mm crow's foot to tightend the galley plug.
This is a must!
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Old 06-30-2008, 12:48 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hypoxvi View Post
I put the line into the plug first and tightened it, and then used a 17mm crow's foot to tightend the galley plug. I actually left the intercooler in the car just unbolted it and shifted it back. i ran my line across next to my turbo and bolted the sender next to my BCS. Oh and it is much easier to use 3/8" 8mm hex socket instead of a normal allen wrench. the socket is like 6 bucks at sears. i see pegged at startup, once it was warm idle was around 40, and it would go back up to around 100 when driving.
Just did it now, +1 on this method.

Just to simply hypoxvi's post

Tools needed:
- 3/8" 8mm hex socket (with extension)
- 7/16" wrench
- 17mm Crow's foot
- (optional) 7/16" crow's foot
- wrxtra remote oil pressure sender kit.

Line to adapter, and then tighten to block using a 17mm crow's foot.
Alternatively, you could have tightened the block adapter first, and use a 7/16ths crow's foot to tighten the line to the adapter.

I thought this was going to be a PITA to install, but was super easy with the crow's foot.
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Old 06-30-2008, 03:18 PM   #24
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FYI, I have the Daddy's Sandwich plate ended up going the route the OP did. The sandwich plate from Daddy's does not fit on an '06. There is a secondary hard line that prevents the adapter from centering on the oil filter plug. I had an oil temp gauge too, so I installed that in the galley plug for now and left the oil pressure for another day/time when I feel like fighting it again. I highly recommend the kit the OP bought. Should save you a ton of trouble.
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Old 06-30-2008, 06:28 PM   #25
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I just did this, and wish I didnt. I used to have my pressure sensor in the sandwich plate, put didnt like the wire routing. The problem with the upper oil galley and plug is that it hits air pockets, being there is a gap between the sensor and the flow of oil. When the sensor was in my sandwich plate it got oil all the time, No worries. With the sensor in the galley going down the highway or accelerating my oil pressure waivers or drops slightly because of the flow of oil going past the sensor increases. I dont like this at all. So at the next oil change my sensor will be going back to my sandwich plate. Ive had the greddy one for 4 years and no oil leaks, its double oringed. nice writeup though, the stubby 17mm is your friend for this install.
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