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Old 05-01-2007, 04:09 PM   #1
MeanEditor
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Default 1993 Impreza Wagon "Project Dreadnought"

So I am now Editor in Chief of Subiesport Magazine. This means I need to quit screwing around with Hondas and buy a Subaru. While I love Subaru I also loved my Honda. But I needed a Subaru. So I bit the bullet and put the old 1995 hatch up for sale. I hate dealing with selling things online. People either want to low-ball you, or offer you half cash and something else like “this really cool dirt bike.”



Here is a recap of some of the actual offers for my car: a 1985 Cutlass Supreme on 20-inch chrome rims; 18-inch chrome rims and stereo equipment; and the ever-popular “I will give you two-thirds cash now and the other one-third next week, I swear, and can I have the car in the meantime?”


In the end I sold out for less than I wanted because the idiocy was killing me. So with cash in hand I grabbed a 1993 1.8-liter, 5-speed, AWD Impreza L wagon, the first year of the Impreza. I needed a wagon since my old hatchback proved to be the most versatile car I have ever owned. It was able to haul my entire life and take corners like a dream. Also, my missus likes to bike to school and then call for an extraction from campus when it gets too cold or dark. The versatility of a hatchback was a must, so I bought a wagon; plus, I love wagons.


The beast has over 160,000 miles, completely ruined red paint and a balky transmission that grinds into and out of third gear.



The previous owner wasn’t too keen on keeping up with routine things like changing the tranny and diff fluid, but at least the oil seems clean and the sparkplug wires are new. The engine shows signs that at one point coolant was boiling out past the heads, as green crap is caked to the block.

However, the interior is MINT; to a point, it kind of smells. I don’t think I will change a thing on the inside, though; from the working tape deck to the immaculate rubber accordion shift boot, it will all stay put.

To see just what a dog I had, I took the car to Subiesport’s secret testing facility to put it through its paces.
Quarter-mile times happen in about a week. You can make a sandwich, call your grandma, take the SATs and tweeze your unibrow in the time it takes this car to “sprint” the 1320 (read 20 seconds).


Around our technical course, the car has all the handling prowess of a bucket of water, with the car sloshing from side to side. I literally had to abort at least one slalom run to avoid rolling-over from all the pitching.

OK, so all four shocks are shot. The interior, while very well kept, is a little stained and smells a bit. But this is the first Subaru that I own the title to and can call mine. No more living through the builds of customers or feature articles. This one I will build my way, to my wants and desires.


But how shall I name her? She is a wagon, which will do battle with other project cars and rival street machines from time to time. You could call her a battlewagon, which is another name for a battleship. The British call their battleships Dreadnoughts. So, I christen thee, Project Dreadnought.

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Old 05-01-2007, 04:25 PM   #2
MeanEditor
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Default Suspension Update

See also the June issue of Subiesport for more suspension upgrades to Project Dreadnought.

Thanks to Performance Race Engineering (www.preracing.com) in Portland, Oregon for taking on this little monster of a project.

As with most things in life, nothing is ever simple. This includes upgrading old parts on an old car. Take for instance our 1993 Impreza wagon. With over 160,000 miles on the clock and a former life as a midwest commuter car, it was a sure thing that most of, if not all of the bolts and bushings in our little Lís suspension were rusted, rotted and seized.


1. The stock drum. Small and rusted.

To combat this, we installed a Powerflex bushing kit provided by MSI, read about it in the current issue of Subiesport. The only bushings that were not replaced were the lateral link bushings; the relevance of this will be made clear below.


2. Stock disc, also small and prone to overheating.

Another chink in our wagonís armor was the brakes. The L came standard with miniscule front discs with 1-pot calipers and rear drums, both of which are rather prone to overheating.

The good news is that the much larger 2-pots from our 2.5RS were just sitting around collecting dust. Furthermore, Performance Race Engineering, the Portland, Ore. Shop that will be doing wrenching duties on this car, had a WRX rear disc setup that they were willing to donate to the cause. To bolster this kit, we sourced a stainless steel brake line kit from Cobb Tuning. They also sent a set of larger rotors with extension brackets. We will leave these to a later date as we wanted to test the braking power of the stock 2.5RS setup first.


3. The 2.5RS 2-pot brake calipers.

The installation of the front brakes is so straightforward as to hardly warrant coverage. Unbolt old brakes, lines and backing plates and reinstall the new stuff. It is 100% direct bolt-in. It took Steve, the head tech, all of 15 minutes to unbolt the old brakes, inspect and lube the 2.5RS calipers and have the whole mess back on the car.

The rears are another tale altogether.

Bolting on rear discs is not a simple matter of bolting on the new rotors and calipers. To do this swap right, we needed to replace the entire rear hub assembly. This means that the lateral links and trailing arms need to be removed along with the rear axles.


4. The bushing for the passengerís side lateral link completely fell apart.


5. Detail of the rust and rot in the old drums.

Since we had the trailing arm out recently to replace the bushing, this was not a problem. However, the lateral links were another matter. A 10-inch grade-10 bolt secures the lateral links to the rear hub. On both sides of the car this rather expensive bolt was completely fused inside the links. Furthermore, the bushings locating the bolt inside the lateral links were completely destroyed. On the passengerís side we had to cut out the bolt and links. On the driverís, the bolt snapped once we applied torque to it.


6. Brand new lateral links and trailing arms. The center turn buckles on the lateral links let you adjust both camber and toe.


7. While we had the rear end apart, we installed a newer diff. Here Bobby and Steve heft the new unit into place.

This now put us in a quandary, there were no stock lateral links laying about and to get STI parts from Subaru would run us about $1,000. The solution came from the PRE parts room.

Top Speed Auto makes all manner of go fast parts for the WRX under their Hard Race brand including transmission and motor mounts. They also make a trailing arm and lateral link kit that is fully adjustable with spherical bushings.


8. The lateral links and trailing arms in place. Because there are bearings locating the rear suspension now, there is no friction holding them parallel to the ground, like with the old rotted bushings.


9. RS rotor and caliper (left) L rotor and caliper (right).

The kit retails for about $700, not cheap, but better than the factory bits and less expensive. Whatís more, the bearings will make for even better response and handling over even urethane parts, however, ride quality and NHV will be sacrificed.


10. Steve slides the new rotor on.

continues....
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Old 05-01-2007, 04:26 PM   #3
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Default continuation

...


11. And then attaches the new caliper.


12. The stainless braided lines make stopping more sure-footed with much less line flex and swelling.

Another advantage to the Top Speed kit is the addition of mounting points for a rear sway bar. Because the GF wagon does not come with a rear bar stock, there is no way to bolt the endlinks to the lateral links. The good news is that the chassis has the mounting point for the bar bracket pre-tapped in the rear frame rails.


13. The new bracket for the rear sway bar.


14. The mounting point for the rear bar bracket.


15. The new rear sway bar and bracket in place.

We had to chase out the bolt holes with a tap to remove all the grit, rust and undercoating first but it is a simple install. We used a rear Forester XT bar. At the same time we also installed a rear lockdown kit. This is basically a set of bolts that secures the rear subframe to the chassis which also helps eliminate deflection and play.
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Old 05-01-2007, 04:27 PM   #4
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...

On the front, the previous install of a WRX subframe precluded us from reinstalling the stock front bar. While we were ordering parts for the rear brakes, we found the appropriate brackets at the local Subaru dealer. The reinstall is a snap once you have all the right parts.


16. Attaching the supplied end links to the bracket on the lateral link.


17. The rear of the car complete. Notice the custom exhaust fabbed in-house by PRE.


18. The front bar with the new factory mounting bracket and endlink by MSI. The bar is stock L.

Once all of our suspension components were installed, it was time to address the rear brakes.
The Impreza rear brakes have two major components, the main disc brake and the emergency brake, which is a drum brake housed inside the disc.

The rear disc section is easy with a disc and caliper.

The drum e-brake assembly is another story. Each side contains about $50 worth of springs, clips and other little gadgets that are there to make your life hell if you happen to have taken this all apart. The easy way to get the drums installed is to buy complete hubs so you don’t have to mess with reassembling this morass of parts. The hard way is looking at the parts diagram from Subaru and ordering everything that you don’t have then re-assembling. Sadly, we were forced to do the latter.


19. The rear E-brake drum assembly.


20. This mess of parts is what faces you if you have disassembled your E-brake drum.


21. To finish off the car we dropped in some Royal Purple Synchromax gear oil into the transmission and rear end. It shifts smoothly and feels much better over the 75w-90 non-synthetic.

Once everything is in front of you it is a game of guessing and test-fitting. If you are lucky, you have a detailed picture you can compare your brakes to, otherwise, it’s a game of wits. Another item you need are WRX style e-brake cables.

With the car all back together and on the road the first impression is that the suspension is much tighter with much less sag in the rear. This probably has a lot to do with the sway bar, but also the spherical bushings in the new rear links make the car come alive.

The brake pedal feel is somewhat better. However, now that we are pushing so much more brake fluid, there is more travel to the pedal. We will need to address this with a larger master cylinder in the future.
We will have test results from out proving grounds in a coming issue. For now, the car feels great and PRE has done a great job. Check them out for parts or your future installation. PRE is an authorized Top Speed dealer so call them if you need suspension bits, bushings or even intercoolers.

Performance Race Engineering
www.preracing.com
503-619-0055
sales@preracing.com

Top Speed Auto Accessories
www.topspeedauto.com
972-233-0888
johnlin@topspeedauto.com

Moore Sport Inc.
www.moresport.com
514-312-5421
sales@mooresport.com

Look for more chassis upgrades when we install chassis bracing from GTSpec and we reveal how to get WRX power from your 1.8-liter L. Also see the June 2007 issue for a full install guide on how to install a Powerflex bushing kit, from Moore Sport (MSI).

Last edited by MeanEditor; 05-14-2007 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 05-10-2007, 05:12 PM   #5
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Hey All, just a quick update.

I have finally got the car back from PRE. It seems we had the wrong diff in the car. The diff, that we were assured was the correct one, was actually the wrong one. So we reinstalled the old diff and got the car back on the road.

Holy Hell, does this thing corner. The chassis, with the new rear suspension and sway bars in, feels like a piece of machined aluminum with wheels on it. It is rock-steady. The Top Speed stuff really works and with the Powerflex bushings and JIC coilovers, it just holds corners.

We also got in some chassis bracing from GTSpec which I will cover soon.

I have also been out in the garage fitting a C-West style lip for the 2002 WRX to my version 5 bumper. Let me tell you, not a direct bolt-on part.

That is all for now. We have lots to cover on this car. Stay tuned, see updates on this car in the next issue. For the time being, read up on the bushing install in the current (Orange Issue) of Subiesport.
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Old 05-18-2007, 02:50 AM   #6
MeanEditor
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Default testing

I just got back from a day of testing with our little wagon and I must say the results are rather impressive.

There is still room for improvement, however, Sway bars are a must.

What would you all like to see happen with this car? What engine, what body styling? Give me your thoughts.

Meaneditor
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Old 05-18-2007, 11:15 PM   #7
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well just wanted to say that im pumped about finding this because i just recently picked up a 97 wagon so this is exactly what i want to see
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Old 05-21-2007, 02:53 PM   #8
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Just wanted to add, that the Cobb brake kit made a HUGE difference. We will be doing testing on that in a future issue as well.
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Old 05-28-2007, 08:47 PM   #9
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try to squeeze 300+ AWHP out of the 1.8 block
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Old 06-02-2007, 12:48 AM   #10
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Hey guys, great project. I actually just finished up my drum>Disc conversion on my L. Turns out you don't need new e-brake lines. I got this hint from a fellow Vendor and sure enough he was right!
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Old 06-06-2007, 10:23 PM   #11
MeanEditor
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We have gotten a continuous stream of letters about our bushing install asking who what and where can I get those bushings.

Call Moore Sport Inc.
514-312-5421
www.mooresport.com they have the bushing kit. Ask for the Subiesport Special.
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Old 06-07-2007, 06:32 PM   #12
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dude get that thing on a dyno already!!!

i havent seen too many ej18t dyno charts
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Old 06-07-2007, 06:38 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanEditor View Post
What would you all like to see happen with this car? What engine, what body styling? Give me your thoughts.

Meaneditor
I'd like to see the car covered in your magazine for the next year to year and a half and keep a blog on it- whats gone wrong, improvements, things to take note on..

drivetrain problems
motor problems
turbo stuff
etc..

it would be really cool if you kept the 1.8 block instead of putting a sti block in or whatever, keep it original.

im taking it this car is being daily driven right? it would be awesome if you do daily drive it and show that with a proper tune/engine management it can be reliable.
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Old 06-13-2007, 01:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanEditor View Post
I just got back from a day of testing with our little wagon and I must say the results are rather impressive.

There is still room for improvement, however, Sway bars are a must.

What would you all like to see happen with this car? What engine, what body styling? Give me your thoughts.

Meaneditor
I would like to see a N/A build with suspension to make up for it on the track. Exterior, i couldn't tell you.
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Old 06-13-2007, 11:00 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imprezaL2345 View Post
I would like to see a N/A build with suspension to make up for it on the track.
We spent the last two years doing that with our "Zero to Hero" 2.5RS build. Tested the result against an STI in the current issue -- on the track.
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Old 06-13-2007, 12:50 PM   #16
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i would love to see a 1.8l turbo also but what about doing a 2.0 twin turbo?
or a svx motor like the what is it a 3.3l?
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Old 06-13-2007, 02:50 PM   #17
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You mean like a JDM twin turbo? It COULD be done, maybe. But it is not a direct bolt on system. It only works for RHD cars I am told.
Stuff is in the works for a motor for the L, but you have to read the next issue to see what we have done so far.

This car IS a daily driver so reliability is an issue, but so far has not been a problem. But it's not broken until it breaks. But so far I haven't seen anything that would make me think it would break, well almost.
The 1.8 is an incredibly robust engine, however. I am very much interested in pushing it to see where we can get.

Last edited by MeanEditor; 06-13-2007 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 06-16-2007, 04:31 PM   #18
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DYNO CHARTS!!

on 2nd thought, maybe you should tell everyone it blew up after 1,000 miles so we can keep our secret to ourselves HEHE..i dont want my beloved impreza to turn into the next civic
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Old 06-16-2007, 04:39 PM   #19
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It would be nice if you would answer some of those letters (e-mails).

Quote:
Originally Posted by MeanEditor View Post
We have gotten a continuous stream of letters about our bushing install asking who what and where can I get those bushings.

Call Moore Sport Inc.
514-312-5421
www.mooresport.com they have the bushing kit. Ask for the Subiesport Special.
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Old 06-17-2007, 12:58 AM   #20
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It would be nice if you would answer some of those letters (e-mails).
Corky, we've been a bit busy with deadlines. Your letter, however, was answered in the upcoming issue in the Feedback section. I don't remember the specifics this moment, being at home right now, but I think it was along the lines of all the bushings were replaced. If you want to call Moore-Sport, they have the complete list of what was sent. Maybe Travis can chime in here.
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Old 06-17-2007, 11:13 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricochet View Post
Corky, we've been a bit busy with deadlines. Your letter, however, was answered in the upcoming issue in the Feedback section. I don't remember the specifics this moment, being at home right now, but I think it was along the lines of all the bushings were replaced. If you want to call Moore-Sport, they have the complete list of what was sent. Maybe Travis can chime in here.
That's great, but I sent you two e-mails and one to Travis, the first one was about a month ago. Had I gotten an answer back then, I probably would have finished installing my bushings by now. I contacted Moore-Sport yesterday via e-mail (since it was Saturday and I didn't expect them to be open). I really didn't expect to have to wait until the next issue to get an answer. The mag is great, keep up the outstanding work.
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:54 PM   #22
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this is pretty sweet, I'm planning on doing something similar to my 98 GC8...

do the aftermarket lateral links make a big difference or are they just slightly better than stock, and the sway bar is the big improvement?
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Old 06-17-2007, 08:03 PM   #23
MeanEditor
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There is a huge difference. Basically the difference between using rubber to hold something in place or metal bearings. There is no more flex in the suspension. But yes, a rear bar also helps a lot.

MSI has a lateral link kit as does Perrin and Whiteline.
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:40 PM   #24
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Got a reply to my e-mail from Matt, need to get him some info. For those who might be thinking about doing this, Matt needs to know the diameter of the front and rear sway bars, and whether you want "Fast Street" (purple) or "Track" (black). Travis thinks the black ones are a little too harsh for the street. Also the kit from Matt will include lateral bushings, not included with teh kit provided for the "Project" car since it wasn't known what would end up on the car. I'll probably be buying two kits, one right away (purple) for my street car, and later a black set for a future project car.
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Old 06-19-2007, 10:36 AM   #25
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i really wanna' see dyno charts.
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