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Old 05-02-2007, 02:52 PM   #1
steve
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Default Royal Purple Oil Change

First off, this stuff is purple!



Anyway, at Lordco yesterday I realized they carry Royal Purple 5w30. After my discount, it worked out to around $7 per liter, so I said "Why not!".


A grand total of around $50, including the factory filter. Not bad for pure, purple synthetic.




Let it all drain out. Be sure to crack the oil filler, or dipstick to allow for better flow.


I always like to fill the factory filter before reinstalling.


That's pretty much it.
The car used about 4.5L of oil before coming very close to the "full" mark on the dipstick.


Why Royal Purple?
Mainly to keep the internal temps down (and a bit of bling factor ). My colleagues and I have been working on the ecu over the last few weeks in order to get some more power out of the setup. The RP lubricant is supposed to be slick enough to actually drop oil and water temps. I guess datalogs will prove that right or wrong.


While I was at it, I realized how much I hated the front plate on this car. So with her in the air, I did a little tweaking of the plate with the sheet metal break. I'm ordering another "Subiesport" plate replacement to cover up the nasty holes drilled in the bumper. It will look much better once that's been installed.

What do you think so far?



Excuse the crappy cel phone pics, it's all I had on me.
Cheers!
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Old 05-02-2007, 03:14 PM   #2
alan ling
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I have been using Royal Purple exclusively on my STi. I figure my car deserves the best.
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:07 PM   #3
Paco11484
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I use Royal Purple in my WRX as well. Gotta love Lordco Trade Show pricing
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Old 05-02-2007, 04:33 PM   #4
semaj
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I'm using Royal Purple 5w30 too hypa, and I paid $6.50/bottle without any special discounts at Lordco

Nice front lip BTW
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:46 PM   #5
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that's weird. Lordco told me you can't use the discount account on fluids.... gah!

They had a special a few weeks ago for $6.50 a bottle. I don't know how you managed to pull that one off regularly james. hhahah!
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Old 05-02-2007, 05:58 PM   #6
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My cousin used to work at Lordco and he could use discount account on anything. Fluids, parts, and even cleaners. It didn't matter.
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Old 05-02-2007, 06:16 PM   #7
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Was thinking about using RP but I think I'm going to stick with German Castrol 0w-30 after switching from M1...

For some reason there is A LOT of debate over RP and what kind of oil it Really is... Some people say its Dyno oil and some say its full synthetic... Some say its great, some say its crap!

Hard to find out the truth about some types of oils for some reason...? So much confusion and miss information around oil these days...

Jay
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Old 05-02-2007, 06:26 PM   #8
dasnowman
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Mobile one is what I'm using, and I'm happy with it... and it's easy to find. If you are down a bit and need to get topped up..

Hypa I know what you are talking about the front plate, I have been trying to figure out a better and cleaner way of doing it... Do you have a better angle from the front you could show me what you did.

thanks bud
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Old 05-02-2007, 06:54 PM   #9
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Stop being such a pretty boy and setup a damn meet Steve.

BTW, looks good. I really want to relocate my front plate as well. DIY FTW!
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:24 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlam86 View Post
that's weird. Lordco told me you can't use the discount account on fluids.... gah!

They had a special a few weeks ago for $6.50 a bottle. I don't know how you managed to pull that one off regularly james. hhahah!
I didn't pull anything off...I just walked in, and bought them for $6.50 about a month ago.
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:36 PM   #11
minifreak
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My brother uses Royal Purple on his RX-7, but we were told by others that it is better to run Mobile One in the winter.

I stoled some of his Royal Purple 2 cycle mix to used in my grass trimmer
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Old 05-02-2007, 08:41 PM   #12
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I like your license plate idea Steve-

But as for oil.... Amsoil ftw!
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Old 05-02-2007, 10:37 PM   #13
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My synthetic motor oil journey just ended last weekend. I used to have valvoline synpower 5w30 since day one. But the engine sounded a bit noisy. I switched to the high moly content Havoline dino 10w30 older formula oil last week and the car runs a whole lot more quiet. I think it's because of the weight of the oil instead of the brand.

anyone use 40 weight oil here? Mobil 1 TSUV 5W40? castrol syntech 10w50? I think i'll try some turbo diesel oil 15w40 Mobil delvac or chevron delco 15w40 with my next oil change. Let see if my oil still flows
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Old 05-02-2007, 11:32 PM   #14
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I'm on Redline 5w40 right now and am thinking about going to 15w40 or 15w50 on the next change. The car ran way better on the 40 weight but I would still like a bit more weight so I'm going to try either of those.
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Old 05-03-2007, 03:17 AM   #15
bwco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jstbstn View Post
I'm on Redline 5w40 right now and am thinking about going to 15w40 or 15w50 on the next change. The car ran way better on the 40 weight but I would still like a bit more weight so I'm going to try either of those.
which 15w40 u gonna try? turbo diesel oil or synthetic/racing 15w40?

I'll post my experience with the Delvac 1300 15w40 turbo diesel oil soon
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Old 05-03-2007, 03:50 AM   #16
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hm im gonna pick some of this crap up. my other buddy was ranting about how good it is too. and its cheap.
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:26 PM   #17
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I've got a 100 for anyone that can prove to me that they can differentiate between one motor oil or another once it's in the car.

Unless you are doing crazy things to your car - API certified motor oil of the same weight is, for all pragmatic purposes, the same as any other motor oil. Blue, pink, brown or whatever. Except of course for synthetic - but even that's only a bit different.

Don't get sucked into the Moster-Cable-Marketing trap.....
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:33 PM   #18
steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dasnowman View Post
Hypa I know what you are talking about the front plate, I have been trying to figure out a better and cleaner way of doing it... Do you have a better angle from the front you could show me what you did.
Unfortunately I've been playing delivery boy, the mobile salesman lately and stuck driving the truck. I'll snap some better pics as the week goes on.




Quote:
Originally Posted by semaj View Post
Nice front lip BTW
Thanks mang.
You were my inspiration. Well you, and Brewpubbeaver.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fukamoto View Post
Stop being such a pretty boy and setup a damn meet Steve.
I was hoping for tomorrow night, but it's my bro in law's 19th b'day.
I couldn't take him to a B&B for his first night out at a bar. It would break the poor kid!

Next week bud.

Quote:
Originally Posted by semaj View Post
I didn't pull anything off...I just walked in, and bought them for $6.50 about a month ago.
Apparently $6.50 was their special price for the month of April. Regular price for the stuff is over $12/L


FYI, some stores still have old show stock left, and are blowing it out at the somewhat discounted price of $7. PK store tells me that once the show stock is gone, it goes back up to regular price.

Quote:
Originally Posted by amarpauld View Post
I like your license plate idea Steve-
Thanks Paul.
I've always hated the front plate, but since it's the law.....


Quote:
Originally Posted by Loomin View Post
hm im gonna pick some of this crap up. my other buddy was ranting about how good it is too. and its cheap.
I was reading an article on the Royal Purple corp, and apparently their background is in industrial lubricants. Now you want a stressful environment, try running an injection moulding machine for 2 weeks straight, 24 hours a day. If their lubricants can handle that, they can handle anything we car guys throw at it.

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Old 05-03-2007, 12:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andys View Post
......
Has anyone ever told you, you're about as much fun as cancer of the ****?
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Old 05-03-2007, 12:43 PM   #20
Keiho
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To be fair to andys though, there really isn't that much "difference" you can feel by the seat of your pants or the bottom of your right foot.

With that said though, I'd like for him to try using a Motomaster or other "cheap" synthetic oil then switching to a higher grade one such as Motul, Mobil 1 (though even that is becoming more midgrade now) and others.

THAT difference in quality is somewhat noticeable.

Of course, the seat of my pants and my right foot are extremely sensitive and properly calibrated instruments of my opinionated measurements.
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Old 05-03-2007, 01:11 PM   #21
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Come on now Hypa. It's not like yer Barney oil is *that* much of a rip off

I've tried tonnes of oils. I can't tell jack about the difference in quality.

It's like those HDMI cables that will give you a 'more clear' digital picture. yeah, ok. sure.
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Old 05-03-2007, 01:40 PM   #22
steve
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hahaha on the HDMI cable example.
I'll admit, I laugh when I see something that I sell for $12, being sold for $80 at Future Shop. When it comes to either oil or wire, you do have a point. I couldn't tell you the difference between a Castrol, or a Quaker State. That said, there is a difference in running a synthetic compared to dino oil. Whether it's smoother startup, better gas mileage, or lower engine temps, there is a benefit.

I prefer to use synthetic based on experiences during my old Honda days. When you're running 11 uncooled psi on a motor with 11.5:1 CR at 8400 rpm, knocking like a jehovah's witness on sunday in 4th gear, you appreciate a good lubricant. When I took that particular longblock apart, I didn't even need to change the bearings. I was expecting to take out the piston in pieces, instead I put it all back together and ran it again the next weekend.

Regardless, I know using RP is a sign of my own automotive vanity, but there is some added buffer in there regarding safety. Plus if I run lower engine temps, it will all be worthwhile. That can be proven via datalog.

I take back what I said earlier. You're slightly less painful than penile cancer.
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Old 05-03-2007, 03:12 PM   #23
bwco
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hypa, try mobil 1 5w40 and compare with your RP.
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Old 05-03-2007, 03:16 PM   #24
semaj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hypa View Post
When you're running 11 uncooled psi on a motor with 11.5:1 CR at 8400 rpm, knocking like a jehovah's witness on sunday in 4th gear, you appreciate a good lubricant.
That should be on a T-shirt
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Old 05-03-2007, 05:26 PM   #25
jstbstn
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after seeing this thread yesterday I got inspired to do some research into oil and what weight and additives , flash points, and temperature thickness changes would be best. There are dyno proven results showing horsepower pickup by going to a lighter weight and many full blown race engines are running 0 weight for this reason, however they need to be changed VERY frequently. I for one noticed a massive difference in how my car ran when I changed from mobil 1 5w30 to redline 5w30 at about 3000km of oil usage... the redline was consistent the whole way through where the mobil 1 degraded much quicker. I noticed another difference when i increased the weight of the oil to 5w40 (still in redline) in smoothing out the car. After reading all I did I've decided to change to 10w40 this next change as I think that 15w40(or 50) would be too heavy for the temperatures my car sees. In addition the larger the spread of the two numbers in a multi weight oil, the more additives the companies have to add to the oil. These additives are prone to breakdown with shear forces and time and can cause deposits on valves and cylinder walls and this breakdown in turn lowers the flash point of the oil. Dino oils need more additives than synthetic oils from what I read to be maintained and promote more deposition than synthetic. Along with that their additives break down more quickly than synthetic oil additives. As flash point decreases the oil burns more easily and deposits more into the engine and shortens it's life. I have also chosen to stay with redline oil as it's oil and amsoil have the highest flash points of all the synthetic oils by a fair margin which increases the life of the oil and decreases the chance of harmful deposits. In addition the additives that redline uses are a different form of synthetic molecule that is more compact and less affected by shear force and less prone to breakdown and deposition. Also their oil is heavily oxygenated which encourages a heavy attraction to the inner surface of an engine and helps to have the oil maintain proper lubrication into severe conditions. There is alot more valuable information that I read but i won't bore you all with anymore of it. My 0.02
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