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Old 05-02-2007, 09:36 PM   #1
choader
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 124567
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default New Color Change Method For Interior Lighting

So, I reverted back to some of my honda-isms, and decided to do the color change a little differently, the result being good color, with minimal hotspotting and no need to wire led's or use bulb condoms. I am doing mine red, with a few accent pieces in white. I bought cans of tail light color change spray, becuase it is a) transparent b)heat resistant c)can paint over other colors and not have an ugly blend color. I used this stuff to change my interior lighting in my 95 integra when I had one, and it worked extremely well. I have done everything but the cluster in my car (I will this weekend), and it has only taken a total of about an hour...the hardest part was taking all the crap out of the car that needed to be changed . The brightness and quality are amazing, it looks as good as the inside of newer mazda's and I can leave the blue and white dots on the HVAC their intendid colors.the paint is all that you need, and it is much better that stained glass paint in the sense that it is specific to automotive and it adheres to many different surfaces. YOU CAN USE ALL OF THE STOCK BULBS, AS THEY ARE PLENTY BRIGHT!!!

This is a link to the paint:
http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/bulandtailli.html

A little pricey, but worth it.

Some instructions on how to change all things. Follow removal procedures from other color change tutorials.

Cluster:

1. Pull Cluster
2. Take gauge faces out of the cluster by seperating stepper motors
from the circuit board
3. get to scrapin' the green poo film off
4. once you have all the film off you can go about adding color two
ways:
a) if you are good with a paint can, you can directly paint the back
of the gauge face, covering things that you don't want painted with tape. If you want, you can paint over the plastic coverings on the back of the gauges, with the way that the light refracts, it will work just the same.
it is pretty easy to get this stuff evenly applied, and it should
take no more than two coats, allow drying in between coats.
(if you want to be safe, I would suggest wrapping something
around the stepper motors so that you don't get paint in them,
you may also want to cover the front side of the faces to
protect them from overspray). I cannot stress enough that you
need to allow some drying time between coats.(or you can use a
hairdryer to speed up the drying).
b) paint the bulbs only. this method works O.K., but the color is
much more uniform if you use the above method. JUST MAKE SURE TO TAKE THE BULBS OUT OF THE HOLDER
BEFORE PAINTING...BULBS BURN OUT AND YOU DON'T WANT
TO HAVE THE BULBS STUCK TO THE HOLDER. you will need
about three coats on each bulb, I found that holding the
bottom of the bulb with needle nose pliers worked the best...
it also keeps paint from getting on the contact probes.

****In order to do the LCD odometer screen, pull the green film and paint a clear, thin, piece of plastic to put in its place*****

HVAC:
1. Pull the Silver bezel off
2. take off the four screws holding the HVAC
3. pull the knob covers off the front of the HVAC (temp, speed, air
placement, slider)
4. pop up the little clips that hold on the face of the HVAC
5. Pull the face off.
6. paint using one of two methods:
a) paint the inside of the face, covering any areas that you don't
want to color change (i covered my blue, and white dot). I like
this method because it leaves the pointers on the knobs white.
in order to get the ac and defrost buttons red, you will have to
GENTLY pull the buttons off, and then seperate the clear plastic
pieces from inside the bottons..and paint the clear plastic piece
entirely (sorry I don't have a camera to describe it better), you
will figure it out once you do it. Let everything dry and put it
back together.
b) paint the bulbs, three coats, let dry between coats.

Factory boost gauge
1. pull out the gauge per instructions on trunk_monkey's thread
2. paint the bulb. it looks really good, better than bulb condoms


Misc. Switches.
1. I did my foglight switch, it looks good, but i had to cover the part
below the indicator light window, because the tiny bulbs are a little
too weak to get through the frosted icons.


I HAVE BEEN VERY HAPPY WITH THE QUALITY OF THIS METHOD, AND IT IS VERY EASY. I APOLOGIZE FOR THE SCATTERED NATURE OF THE WRITING, I AM AT WORK AND GOT INTERRUPTED SEVERAL TIMES WHILE WRITING

****i HOPE TO GET PICTURES SOON, SO FEEL FREE TO EMAIL ME AT SCUBA_STEVE1919@YAHOO.COM IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, OR JUST POST QUESTIONS ON THIS THREAD, I DONT CHECK MY NASIOC EMAIL SO USE THE YAHOO ONE****
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Last edited by choader; 05-07-2007 at 06:04 AM.
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Old 05-07-2007, 06:02 AM   #2
choader
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 124567
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default

I finally got the cluster done, and it looks really good. I have minor hotspotting, but not anything that bothers me, seeing as how I spend most of my time looking at the road when i drive...except for when i am scrolling through my MP3 player. The color is about as red as you can get. The color is the exact same as an Audi's interior, but much brighter, almost blinding. I have an all blue pioneer deck, so it contrasts nicely. the only thing i am going to do now is add some minor blue accents to the cluster (the "impreza" symbol and the rpm x1000 logo).

Again, if you try this method to do your color change, be patient, because paint can get messy...and cause things to stick that you dont want to stick.

ask me questions that you may have and i will try to answer them
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Old 10-09-2008, 08:41 PM   #3
mfk_245
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 190264
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Ohio
Vehicle:
2006 Subaru Impreza
Dark Blue

Default

I put new LED bulbs in my gauges to get a different color. All of a sudden it turned off, and a spot on my circuit board is fried. Is there any way to fix it or do I need to get new gauges?
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