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Old 05-12-2007, 01:37 PM   #1
520hpsti
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Default Help, Hydra Issues. DBW etc..

I have been fighting this problem for some while now. What happens is sometimes when i am driving, the throttle will become very over-sensitive and the throttle plate will open and close, causing the car to buck very badly.

While this is happening, if i put the car into nuetral with no gas, it will stall out.

Also if i can get the car to not stall out when in nuetral/clutch in, the rpms bounce up and down from almost dying to ~200rpms-1500 rpms.

this is a random occurance, but i am sure its hydra / DBW related.

The other issue i am having is sometimes i will get NO throttle response at all. I will be driving, everything is good and then ..Nothing. The gas just goes dead. Eventually it will come back, sometimes it doesn't. When there is no throttle response, the idle is at about 2k rpms and just kind of sits there.

I am convinced this is a hydra problem and i know there was a recall for the 04/05sti hydra EMS. The ignition output switch is weak on the 04/05's and the hydra does not get the correct amount of voltage which leads to the "safe mode" which i think is what i randomly get into. I.E. the car is sitting at 2k rpms.

If you have any input, please let me know!

Thanks
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Last edited by 520hpsti; 05-13-2007 at 09:58 AM.
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Old 05-12-2007, 02:18 PM   #2
520hpsti
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bump.
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Old 05-12-2007, 06:12 PM   #3
520hpsti
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anyone.
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Old 05-13-2007, 09:38 AM   #4
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It definitely sounds like your car is hitting the DBW failsafe mechanism. Now whether or not it's a Hydra issue vs a problem with voltage, grounds to the DBW system, or a sensor failing is what needs to be determined. Also make sure nothing is tapped into any of the DBW TPS signals such as those used for gauges, boost controllers etc, as the system is very sensitive so if one of the various sensors is tapped it can pull the voltage down enough to cause this problem.

What you can do and send us an email (not pm) with your serial number of your Hydra and based on that we can usually tell if an update to your Hydra may help. We made changes to the DBW range for older units in October of 2006.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 05-13-2007, 09:44 AM   #5
520hpsti
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Awesome, thanks Phil. Should i send the email to hydra-usa or to what email address.

This is posted on the hydra EMS forums as well in a little more detail if you want to look there. That thread also has my serial # etc...

http://hydraems.com/forums/viewtopic...=54&highlight=
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Old 05-13-2007, 04:07 PM   #6
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Ok based on what I read in your other post you may not be getting enough voltage to the ECU to perform properly since replacing your battery fixed the problem temporarily. "Upload" your map and look at voltage reported by the Hydra on your tuning screen. If your alternator is bad and your car is basically running off the battery you can actually fry the electronics. Let me know what you see while the car is running, this is very important. You should see at least 13 volts when the car is running.

Box 117 is really old and is not likely to have the latest update but Hydra EMS would know when the last update was.

If this is something that is happening consistently and out of the blue it's not likely an update will fix the problem. There is likely a problem somewhere that needs to be fixed. You could elimate the Hydra EMS by sending that email so Hydra EMS and test it along with updating the software and hardware.

Based on what you are saying your sub and main TPS sensors are not maintaining the proper voltage span turning the failsafe on. When these sensors don't read consistently between the two the failsafe will cut the throttle. Like I had mentioned before tapping the TPS signal pulls the voltage down on one sensor only affecting the span. Make sure you don't have anything tapping into any TPS signal.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 05-13-2007, 05:16 PM   #7
520hpsti
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Thanks a bunch, Phil. I sent out an email to hydra usa and i am trying to find out where my gauges or anything might be tapped into. Any easy way of doing this?

I am going to check my voltage right now, but it seems that only sometimes the DBW issue occurs. I assume you want the voltage of when the issue is occuring.

Thanks,
Amit
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Old 05-13-2007, 06:43 PM   #8
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I Just drove the car for about 20 minutes or so and it drove great with no issues at all. I hooked up the Hydra and it read 12.5-12.6v. This is low according to you, but there were no DBW issues. This makes me very confused. Also my AFR was really low (through the hydra) ~11.1, but i am just assuming that is because i dont have a Wideband 02.

Thanks
Amit
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Old 05-13-2007, 09:17 PM   #9
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welcome to the club.... I have the same problem. '06 EDM
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Old 05-13-2007, 09:21 PM   #10
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Sorry to hear that, do you have any more information that you can throw into here to help us all out?
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Old 05-13-2007, 09:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 520hpsti View Post
I Just drove the car for about 20 minutes or so and it drove great with no issues at all. I hooked up the Hydra and it read 12.5-12.6v. This is low according to you, but there were no DBW issues. This makes me very confused. Also my AFR was really low (through the hydra) ~11.1, but i am just assuming that is because i dont have a Wideband 02.

Thanks
Amit
That voltage is really low for a running vehicle. Was your car worked on recently or any parts added/replaced?
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Old 05-13-2007, 09:45 PM   #12
Element Tuning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 520hpsti View Post
Sorry to hear that, do you have any more information that you can throw into here to help us all out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 520hpsti View Post
Sorry to hear that, do you have any more information that you can throw into here to help us all out?
Don't focus on anyone's problems but your own. Element Tuning doesn't distribute the Hydra EMS outside of the US where the specification is different from US cars. Also the DBW ranges are different for the different years so you cannot compare the 04 STi to the EDM 06 STi.

Based on what you are telling me your car has some issues so stay focused on that and hopefully we'll come up with something to check out. I'm leaving the country for awhile so stay on course so I can help you before I have to hand you over to someone else for help.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 05-14-2007, 03:32 PM   #13
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No new parts recently, phil. Have been running this setup for a while now and the issue started a little while ago.

Is there anyway i can easily check to see if anything is tapped into the TPS sensor areas to bring down the voltage.

Thanks alot for your help so far!

-Amit
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:09 PM   #14
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This is rediculous. I just drove around for 30 minutes doing everything possible to replicate this problem. Nothing happend at all, the car drove great. Before the drive i unplugged the hydra harness and reconnected everything to make sure everything was tight. Maybe this had something to do with it?

Also when i go home, i hooked up the hydra and it read 12.5 volts. I turned on all the lights, the fog lights, and my system all the way up, and it was still between 12.5-12.6v.

This is getting very frustrating.

Amit
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Old 05-15-2007, 09:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 520hpsti View Post
No new parts recently, phil. Have been running this setup for a while now and the issue started a little while ago.

Is there anyway i can easily check to see if anything is tapped into the TPS sensor areas to bring down the voltage.

Thanks alot for your help so far!

-Amit
Are you running a standalone boost controller? That is about the only thing that I can think of that would need to tap into the TPS wire. This would usually be done at or near the ECU plug.
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Old 05-15-2007, 12:44 PM   #16
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Yes, i am running the Blitz SBC-ID boost controller. Ill check it over hopefully today or tomorrow. Anyway anyone has a pinout or something of how the EBC would be hooked up?

Thanks
Amit
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Old 05-15-2007, 02:02 PM   #17
Element Tuning
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Of course it's "Murphy's Law." It's very possible it was something with the harness. It's very important to make sure everything is connected securely and that the kick plate isn't digging into the wiring harness. I have seen this a few times where the sharp kick plate can actually nick the wire sheathing and ground out the wire etc. It's possible by removing the plate, etc that you fixed your problem.

With that said 12.5-12.6 volts is an unacceptable amount of voltage for a running STI. It should be no less than about 13.3 volts even with your lights on an AC running. I really think you have a grounding issue somewhere, cut power cable(s), or an alternator that is on it's last legs.

Thanks,
Phil
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Old 05-15-2007, 03:36 PM   #18
520hpsti
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Yes it has seemed to stop when i removed the cover. The hydra is just sitting there unprotected and no problems so far. I agree with the voltage issue, is there any way to test my alternator to see if it is going out?. Ill check all my grounds as well.

Thanks

Amit Sharma.
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Old 05-15-2007, 05:14 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 520hpsti View Post
Yes, i am running the Blitz SBC-ID boost controller. Ill check it over hopefully today or tomorrow. Anyway anyone has a pinout or something of how the EBC would be hooked up?

Thanks
Amit
I'm sure it wont be too hard to find the pinout for your year model STI. The boost controller will likely be tied into the TPS, vehicle speed sensor, rpm signal, and injector #1. There maybe one or two more or less. I've never installed that particular BC. Locate your installation instructions for your boost controller along with the appropriate ECU pinout and double check everything. Good luck!
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Old 05-15-2007, 10:47 PM   #20
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Thanks a lot man. I will make sure to get the pinout etc... Tomorrow and the installation instructions.

Wish me luck.

Amit
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Old 05-16-2007, 09:08 PM   #21
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Well, the Blitz SBC ID is not tapped into any TPS sensor so ti should not drag voltage down. I cant think of ANYTHING that would be. Ill check for grounds tomorrow.


Amit
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:59 PM   #22
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Well i went through a whole tank of gas without replicating the problem.

seems like it was either a lose harness which i reattached or the cover plate was grounding out a wire.

amit
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Old 09-21-2007, 12:12 AM   #23
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Kinda sounds familiar but not exactly, now if I could jet get mine to work right
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Old 10-14-2007, 03:10 AM   #24
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Sorry for the late response. What really ended up being the issue was a wire actually got pulled out of the harness. I had to resolder it into the harness and it worked as good as new. PM if you have any questions.
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Old 10-23-2007, 12:00 AM   #25
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in the hydra harness?
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