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Old 04-20-2012, 11:53 AM   #8651
rsutton1223
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Something a little bit different for the day.

This is a teaser image I shot and edited for TopSpeed Motorsports on an upcoming build. What do you guys think?

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Old 04-20-2012, 01:19 PM   #8652
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Originally Posted by |Rev| View Post
Didn't have much time to position the car, as soon as I took the first shot I was getting griped at for being on private property
needs more exposure, maybe a slightly warmer white balance and saturation too. make that white pop.

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Originally Posted by Saleen326 View Post
How about this one? I tried a new spot, but by the time I was finished driving around looking for one, the clouds had rolled in, but thought I'd try anyways. The only thing that really bugs me is how dark the car is. I tried using the dodge tool a little bit, but didn't want to overdo it. Let me know what you think.
I'm guessing the light spot in the sky is where the sun would be at that time. If so, that spot would be better for shots at sunrise when the sun would be behind you. Also, I think the spot would work better if the car was centered between the buildings. The buildings and the tracks work as leading lines drawing you in to the center of the shot.
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:42 PM   #8653
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I took this photo last fall, but tried doing a motion blur for the first time with it.



-Mike
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:20 PM   #8654
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Thanks man! The location is amazing. It's an abandoned insane asylum that has over 15 buildings. We can only go in front of this building though. Here is a re crop, let me know if you think this is better.
The recrop is a little better, but I still think that the car sare too low in the frame. Still going by rule of thirds, I'd position the cars along the lower thirds line. That would also allow me to crop out the sky and just stick with the brick building background, since there's nothing in the sky that adds to the photo anyway. On top of it all, the fact that the cars' wheels aren't all pointed to face the camera bugs the hell out of me.
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:23 PM   #8655
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Originally Posted by |Rev| View Post
Didn't have much time to position the car, as soon as I took the first shot I was getting griped at for being on private property
Composition looks fine, but the car is really underexposed. It looks almost a beige or light grey rather than white. I might even try to get a little lower in elevation too.
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:25 PM   #8656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saleen326 View Post
How about this one? I tried a new spot, but by the time I was finished driving around looking for one, the clouds had rolled in, but thought I'd try anyways. The only thing that really bugs me is how dark the car is. I tried using the dodge tool a little bit, but didn't want to overdo it. Let me know what you think.
Composition is pretty good, but I'd probably move the car away fromm the wall more and have it more on the tracks. The car is definitely underexposed and honestly it's usually better to expose for the car properly and try to figure out your background exposure than to not get the car's exposure right. If you're using Lightroom, adjusting the blacks and shadows would help a little but it still won't be as good as getting the car's exposure correct from the beginning.
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:28 PM   #8657
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Originally Posted by rsutton1223 View Post
Something a little bit different for the day.

This is a teaser image I shot and edited for TopSpeed Motorsports on an upcoming build. What do you guys think?
Looks very Forza-ish It works great as an ad, but as a standalone photo, it's a bit blown out and lacks details.
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:46 PM   #8658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verdugo

Looks very Forza-ish It works great as an ad, but as a standalone photo, it's a bit blown out and lacks details.
Yeah that was the point with this one (ad/teaser).
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:52 PM   #8659
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Originally Posted by supersubs View Post
I took this photo last fall, but tried doing a motion blur for the first time with it.

-Mike
Unless you're using something made for it (like Virtual Rig Studio), I would stay away from the artificial motion shots. They've very easy to pick out, especially when you don't have anyone driving the car.
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:50 PM   #8660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verdugo View Post
The recrop is a little better, but I still think that the car sare too low in the frame. Still going by rule of thirds, I'd position the cars along the lower thirds line. That would also allow me to crop out the sky and just stick with the brick building background, since there's nothing in the sky that adds to the photo anyway. On top of it all, the fact that the cars' wheels aren't all pointed to face the camera bugs the hell out of me.

I agree. I didn't really set up the shot, that's just how they were. I'm trying to work on my lighting and getting the exposure right first, then worry about setting things up properly. When is the best time to shoot? I know direct sunlight is a no no, but I feel if you wait to long youre just shooting in the shade. I tried this yesterday, I know the background sucks, but what do you think of the exposure and tones?

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Old 04-20-2012, 06:22 PM   #8661
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Originally Posted by INKMAN View Post
I agree. I didn't really set up the shot, that's just how they were. I'm trying to work on my lighting and getting the exposure right first, then worry about setting things up properly. When is the best time to shoot? I know direct sunlight is a no no, but I feel if you wait to long youre just shooting in the shade. I tried this yesterday, I know the background sucks, but what do you think of the exposure and tones?
Last paragraph in my first post on this thread

"ē Avoid midday sun Ė If you can help it, try not to shoot in the middle of a bright sunny day. It will mess up your colors and create rather harsh reflections, especially from the windows. The best times to shoot by far are right before sunrise and right at or just after sunset. Cloudy days can be good as well, but you need to be mindful of your contrast and saturation. An overcast day can almost be ideal for even lighting, but just about any shot pointed upward toward the sky is going to have a very overexposed, ugly background."

As for the latest shot, the exposure and tones look okay, but I would avoid the mixed shade and lit areas, where you have shade and bright sunlight in the same frame. What happens (such as the case here) is that the car is a little underexposed, but if you try to increase that in post processing, you have to balance that out by not overexposing the sun-lit areas.
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Old 04-20-2012, 06:39 PM   #8662
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I feel that it's almost impossible (for me) to get perfect lighting. It's either too dark or too sunny, or the mix of the two. It gets discouraging. It seems like cloudy days would be the best option for me to do this. I'll keep working at it though. Plus I'm in a big debate of which lens to get next. I looked at the Canon 70-200 and the Tamron 18-270, both a little pricey for a noob like myself I think.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:04 PM   #8663
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Originally Posted by INKMAN View Post
I feel that it's almost impossible (for me) to get perfect lighting. It's either too dark or too sunny, or the mix of the two. It gets discouraging. It seems like cloudy days would be the best option for me to do this. I'll keep working at it though. Plus I'm in a big debate of which lens to get next. I looked at the Canon 70-200 and the Tamron 18-270, both a little pricey for a noob like myself I think.
That's because you're probably still believing there's such a thing as "perfect lighting." There isn't...even if you create the lighting yourself, it's not going to be perfect. The whole point of photography is light and what you do with that light.

I still very much recommend a 50mm É1.8 if you don't have one already. Nothing teaches you composition better than a fixed focal length lens.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:17 PM   #8664
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Originally Posted by Verdugo View Post
Composition looks fine, but the car is really underexposed. It looks almost a beige or light grey rather than white. I might even try to get a little lower in elevation too.
Awesome thanks for the tips!
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:21 PM   #8665
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Originally Posted by Verdugo View Post
That's because you're probably still believing there's such a thing as "perfect lighting." There isn't...even if you create the lighting yourself, it's not going to be perfect. The whole point of photography is light and what you do with that light.

I still very much recommend a 50mm É1.8 if you don't have one already. Nothing teaches you composition better than a fixed focal length lens.
Im definitely going to pick one up but I do need a zoom lens for upcoming racing events and my 18-55 is almost useless at the track. I'm not really looking for perfect lighting, just optimal lighting and learning how it effects things. I feel I already have gotten better from the info you have given me. Thanks again, I appreciate it.
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Old 04-20-2012, 10:01 PM   #8666
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I prefer to shoot on cloudy days or just before sunset. Shade also works, but I don't like mixing shade and sunlight (including the background).

I have a nifty fifty and never use it. If you want a pro quality lens, get a 70-200. Any superzoom (like the 18-270) is consumer level and nothing more.
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Old 04-21-2012, 12:30 AM   #8667
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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
I prefer to shoot on cloudy days or just before sunset. Shade also works, but I don't like mixing shade and sunlight (including the background).

I have a nifty fifty and never use it. If you want a pro quality lens, get a 70-200. Any superzoom (like the 18-270) is consumer level and nothing more.
Since INKMAN is using Canon, I think he is looking at the 70-200 f/4 since it is only a few $ more than the 18-270mm.
Would he be better off with the Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8? It is listed as a Macro lens but I think someone around here uses it just fine. It is slightly more expensive than the Canon f/4 but still much less than other f/2.8's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by INKMAN View Post
I feel that it's almost impossible (for me) to get perfect lighting. It's either too dark or too sunny, or the mix of the two. It gets discouraging.
As long as you use a tripod it is rarely too dark. You just need to use longer shutter times to let more light in. After that it is just editing to adjust the white balance and minor enhancements like normal. The side shot that I posted last, I thought it was too dark out (after sunset) when I took it but it was easier to edit than the ones I took a few minutes before it.

Last edited by coldmm803; 04-21-2012 at 12:42 AM.
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:45 AM   #8668
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Originally Posted by INKMAN View Post
Im definitely going to pick one up but I do need a zoom lens for upcoming racing events and my 18-55 is almost useless at the track. I'm not really looking for perfect lighting, just optimal lighting and learning how it effects things. I feel I already have gotten better from the info you have given me. Thanks again, I appreciate it.
Once you come to the conclusion of how shutter speed, aperture, and ISO affect each other, you won't have any issue with just about every kind of lighting

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
I prefer to shoot on cloudy days or just before sunset. Shade also works, but I don't like mixing shade and sunlight (including the background).

I have a nifty fifty and never use it. If you want a pro quality lens, get a 70-200. Any superzoom (like the 18-270) is consumer level and nothing more.
Very much agreed. Of course, it all depends on how far you want to go with things

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Originally Posted by coldmm803 View Post
Since INKMAN is using Canon, I think he is looking at the 70-200 f/4 since it is only a few $ more than the 18-270mm.
Would he be better off with the Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8? It is listed as a Macro lens but I think someone around here uses it just fine. It is slightly more expensive than the Canon f/4 but still much less than other f/2.8's.



As long as you use a tripod it is rarely too dark. You just need to use longer shutter times to let more light in. After that it is just editing to adjust the white balance and minor enhancements like normal. The side shot that I posted last, I thought it was too dark out (after sunset) when I took it but it was easier to edit than the ones I took a few minutes before it.
The Canon 70-200 É4 is pretty legendary in terms of sharpness, and while it may not have the same low-light or bokeh of the Tamron 70-200 É2.8, it's still typically going to be sharper at equal apertures and going to focus a little faster since it doesn't have the macro element built into it.

I very much agree with what you said about the tripod as well. If you have the time an patience to use a tripod, available light shouldn't ever be a problem.
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:01 PM   #8669
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Hmmm... All great comments but now I'm even more torn. Lol. I was looking at the Canon 70-200 f/4. I figured I could use it for my racing stuff then I can pick up the 50mm for my portrait and kid shots. Like I've said before I'm not trying to go pro but I like to improve and do well in anything I do. I'm looking to get the most for money, lets put it that way.
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Old 04-21-2012, 09:31 PM   #8670
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I think the Canon 70-200 f/4 is an excellent choice. It's extremely sharp, reasonably priced, and also quite small/light. For someone who is not at your stage in photography, I think it's a great choice. The only reason I'd get a 3rd party 70-200 f/2.8 is if you need f/2.8 for some reason (like indoor sports, for example). If you're just shooting outside, then the Canon 70-200 f/4 is going to be a better choice. It's a reasonably cheap lens that you won't outgrow right away even if you really delve into photography a lot more.
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:16 PM   #8671
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I think I'm leaning towards to Canon 70-200, I was just wondering if the non IS is going to be a big factor since I'm not going to be able to carry a tripod with me everywhere I go.
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:33 PM   #8672
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I don't ever use a tripod. Ever. The only times mine has left the house is to make the 2-3 exhaust sound clip videos that I have on YouTube. Unless you have a really specific shot you want, I don't see why people try shooting at night. Just use the light from the sun. That's what it's there for. The only thing I would say you need IS for, is if you want to do panning shots. But I wouldn't jump into them unless you really want them. They are fairly difficult and will be quite frustrating to a novice.
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:38 PM   #8673
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Speaking of panning. I tried slow shutter panning on cars for the first time today. I settled in around 1/30 second (ISO100, aperture for proper exposure, usually f/11-f/14). I was using the Canon 70-200 f/2.8 IS. I would usually shoot 2-3 frames of each car, and normally get at least 1 keeper on each car, but not always (this is with the stabilizer on obviously). Overall I thought it went OK.









And a WRX because this is a Subaru forum

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Old 04-21-2012, 10:42 PM   #8674
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Shots look great, but that lens is in a whole other price range. I would love to be able to get something top notch, but I'm going to have to start small and build up. Gives me something to look forward too.
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:55 PM   #8675
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Yep, I think the 70-200 f/4 is perfect for that. Should be something you won't outgrow for a long time and still doesn't break the bank.
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