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Old 07-08-2012, 07:49 PM   #9076
Bansheeboy11
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Yeah, the background is more in focus than the car. Shooting a black car at night is probably one of the most difficult scenarios you can put yourself in, and it's very rare that anyone, including the best automotive photographers out there, can pull it off successfully. Unless you had some strobes or other artificial light attempting to shine light onto the car, you're pretty much stuck. The flare from the street lights doesn't help things either.
Any cheap solutions to lighting in remote locations like that? Behind where i was is a huge gravel lot and a construction site, no power. I had thought about picking up 2 or 3 of those 12v battery powered lights and making a diffuser or something.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:08 PM   #9077
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Hi photogs. i'm a long time lurker here in nasioc. Don't posts a lot. Anyway, took a snap of my car and wanted to share it.

**sunshade is on and there are clutters on the ground. i think the pic would've looked better without them. CC's are appreciated.
Welcome! You're right about the sunshade and the clutter on the ground, so at least you're off to a good start in terms of recognizing issues. The other main problem is that you shot on the shadow side of the car, so the car isn't quite exposed very well compared to the surroundings. I'm also not a big fan of the vignetting going on in the corners either. I'd probably also turn the car more to face the camera (more of a 3/4 view) since it's not quite a profile view either.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:10 PM   #9078
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Hey guys, I haven't posted in a while but American Le Mans finally arrived and that means it's time for me to try to earn a stamp! I have a TON of photos but I'm going to do a few every couple of days or so. Here we go....
You're almost there...the compositions are good but the photos themselves aren't very sharp. You need some polarizer on those shots as well, and the overcast skies are going to require a little more contrast in post processing to make things pop.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:11 PM   #9079
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Woo! Thanks! I've decided I like shooting people way more than cars.
They both present their own set of challenges, that's for sure
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:14 PM   #9080
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Any cheap solutions to lighting in remote locations like that? Behind where i was is a huge gravel lot and a construction site, no power. I had thought about picking up 2 or 3 of those 12v battery powered lights and making a diffuser or something.
The issue here isn't the amount of money you're going to spend on lighting...it's the simple fact that you're trying to light a black car at night. You're basically stuck playing more with reflections than anything else, since the black is just going to absorb any light you point at it, rather than light up a panel of the car. You can try light painting, but even still the results will be very tricky since all it's going to do is reflect off the edges of the car. My best advice would be to simply avoid shooting a black car at night altogether.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:29 PM   #9081
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Originally Posted by Verdugo View Post
You're almost there...the compositions are good but the photos themselves aren't very sharp. You need some polarizer on those shots as well, and the overcast skies are going to require a little more contrast in post processing to make things pop.

They look waaaaaayy sharper in Lightroom. Now that I look at them on here they look like trash and I'm kind of dissapointed in myself. The one of team Falken was shot at at 1/40 and looks good on my computer. I'll put some better ones up later.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:36 PM   #9082
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Originally Posted by INKMAN View Post
They look waaaaaayy sharper in Lightroom.
you know, its a funny thing, i have kind of noticed this with some of my images too. look great in LR (with sharpening set to my standard) then when i export, its either over or under sharpened.

my lightroom is pretty much set up like Armin's, since i have asked him every question possible about LR so i dont know, its weird, but i feel you on this one INKMAN. its not every image, some are better than others. weird nonetheless.
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Old 07-09-2012, 02:39 PM   #9083
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2nd attempt.




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Old 07-10-2012, 12:54 AM   #9084
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@verdugo,

thank you sir for your comments. they are helpful. i'll make sure to apply what i learn next time i take pics of the car.
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Old 07-10-2012, 08:25 AM   #9085
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INKMAN: What day did you go? Those pans are much better than I was able to get; I ended up upping the shutter speed to try and keep the cars sharp and lost motion blur.

I was there on Friday:














The rest here:
http://davenutting.smugmug.com/Cars/...ans-Lime-Rock/

Last edited by DNut; 07-10-2012 at 08:36 AM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:14 PM   #9086
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I went on Saturday. I wish I could have been there for qualifying but I had to work. Those were my first attempts at panning and I got frustrated pretty quick but got a few good ones. I seemed to get my best at around 1/80. I'm going up there the end of September for the Rolex race and am planning on renting a much better lens for panning. I have a bunch on Flickr. You should check them out. Let me know what you think.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:27 PM   #9087
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renting a better lens for panning? the type of lens wont be as much the deciding factor for sharp shots... its more as to HOW you are panning with your arms/body.

what lens did you use for the shots you already shared in here? and what lens do you want to rent? generally, the longer the focal length, the more stable you need to be when panning. the slightest off movement at 400mm will be much more noticeable than the slightest off movement at 17mm. you can generally pan slow with pleasing results much easier with wides opposed to tele's.

i shoot a lot of macro and a lot of images at 1:1 - 4:1 magnifications. **** starts getting tricky, and generally i will use full flash set ups, so the flash is typically my shutter speed (virtual shutter speed) while you cant do this with cars, its the same concept that the more magnification you have, the more easily things can slightly move and ghost causing soft subjects overall.

Last edited by SkimSTI; 07-10-2012 at 06:35 PM.
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Old 07-10-2012, 06:41 PM   #9088
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I wanted to rent the 70-200 f/2.8. I believe it has a panning mode switch for better image stabilization. I used my 55-250 (kit lens) for all those shots. I know I need a better technique but I want to try an expensive lens to see the difference.
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Old 07-10-2012, 10:10 PM   #9089
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the lenses have IS (canon) and VR (nikon). VR/IS primary use is so you can use slower shutter speeds for situations where light is dim and you dont want to crank ISO through the roof. or if its so dim, that even with the ISO cranked to near maximum, the shutter speed is still relatively low (where non IS/VR lenses would require a tripod in such situations)

while it does help, slightly, for panning cars, its still more about technique than anything else IMHO. you will see more of an improvement of clarity with the 70-200 over the kit lens you are using, but honestly speaking, these lens features arent going to correct bad panning technique. in fact, many photographers will prefer to turn VR/IS off during panning, as in some situations the stabilization will try to over correct and cause slight ghosting (this has happened to me before).

it just comes down to practice really, and moving in a way that is comfortable for you. being smooth and stable is key. and pending how slow you try to go, even breathing will throw off your pan. for this shot, i remember planting both feet firmly, tracking the car far off to my right, firing off the shot/s when my body and camera were facing straight (firing high frame right), and holding my breath the entire time. 1/25th @ 70mm on this one, with the Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8 NON VR.



Last edited by SkimSTI; 07-10-2012 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:05 AM   #9090
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Took these of my buddies new WRX in Estes Park, CO.

Subaru of America liked them enough to put the B+W version as their cover photo on Facebook for a few days . HDR is way cool to me.

[IMG] _DSC0011_2_3_tonemapped-3 by David Burbank, on Flickr[/IMG]

I personally love this one too. Playing around with the new Nikon 10-24 wide angle.

[IMG] _DSC0029-7 by David Burbank, on Flickr[/IMG]
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Old 07-11-2012, 09:42 AM   #9091
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I took a short drive this morning after dropping my son off at daycare. It was the first time my car has seen anything lower than 95 degree ambient temps in awhile.

Taken with a 5D Mark III and 135mm/f2 L lens on a closed road.


Go by rsutton198, on Flickr

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Old 07-11-2012, 11:06 AM   #9092
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkimSTI View Post
the lenses have IS (canon) and VR (nikon). VR/IS primary use is so you can use slower shutter speeds for situations where light is dim and you dont want to crank ISO through the roof. or if its so dim, that even with the ISO cranked to near maximum, the shutter speed is still relatively low (where non IS/VR lenses would require a tripod in such situations)

while it does help, slightly, for panning cars, its still more about technique than anything else IMHO. you will see more of an improvement of clarity with the 70-200 over the kit lens you are using, but honestly speaking, these lens features arent going to correct bad panning technique. in fact, many photographers will prefer to turn VR/IS off during panning, as in some situations the stabilization will try to over correct and cause slight ghosting (this has happened to me before).

it just comes down to practice really, and moving in a way that is comfortable for you. being smooth and stable is key. and pending how slow you try to go, even breathing will throw off your pan. for this shot, i remember planting both feet firmly, tracking the car far off to my right, firing off the shot/s when my body and camera were facing straight (firing high frame right), and holding my breath the entire time. 1/25th @ 70mm on this one, with the Nikkor 24-70mm f2.8 NON VR.

I was saving up for the 70-200 f/4 IS lens because it's more in my budget but do you think the IS is really worth the extra 600 bucks or should I just get the non IS version? I really want to improve my panning but races are far and few between unfortunately.
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Old 07-11-2012, 11:48 AM   #9093
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I was saving up for the 70-200 f/4 IS lens because it's more in my budget but do you think the IS is really worth the extra 600 bucks or should I just get the non IS version? I really want to improve my panning but races are far and few between unfortunately.
yea IS/VR lenses are definitely worth it (to me they are at least) but i also shoot everything, automotive, land/seascapes, macro, my dogs, and everything in between

like i said, for those dim lit situations where you want lowest iso, and you want to hand hold with shutter speeds like 1/10th-1/40th, its going to help a lot. comes down to what you want. i learned long ago, from Armin, and a few other guys, cheaping out on lenses will only cost you more money in the long run. save up and get what YOU want and something that will fit your needs. and i dont mean 'cheaping out' with VR/IS or Non VR/IS. these are just nice additional features which can help in certain situations.

i had ALL sigma glass when i started. and i love shooting wide open (f1.4 / f2.8) etc, all my images would always be somewhat "soft". and i never knew why until i really started posting in here. slowly started upgrading glass and i noticed a major improvement in clarity almost immediately, not changing any settings or techniques. quality in glass really goes a long way. something you definitely don't want to cheap out on, IMO. you can have a low-mid range body, but thats not controlling all the quality and sharpness in your shots.
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:20 PM   #9094
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Sounds good, thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to do the 70-200 f/4 IS. The 2.8 is just too much money. I think I could go a long way with that lens. When I went to Lime Rock last weekend I saw a TON of people walking around with those. Seems to be the best choice for me. I like to shoot everything too, mostly portrait stuff and kids, so I should be able to improve on that with the better lens.
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Old 07-11-2012, 01:39 PM   #9095
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Sounds good, thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to do the 70-200 f/4 IS. The 2.8 is just too much money. I think I could go a long way with that lens. When I went to Lime Rock last weekend I saw a TON of people walking around with those. Seems to be the best choice for me. I like to shoot everything too, mostly portrait stuff and kids, so I should be able to improve on that with the better lens.
definitely man, no problem. like i said, get what you feel would work for YOU. just because people will rant and rave about particular glass, it works for what they do.

example, for me and macro, a lot of people RAVE about the 105 macro VR. but for me its not enough working distance. so i got the 200mm f4 micro (non vr). certainly, its a bit harder to use, but the working distance is double, and thats what works for me. good luck dude
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Old 07-13-2012, 10:31 PM   #9096
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Armin (and Dale Martin) inspired me to try new things this week. i thought id share with the group here since i normally dont spend hours on shots. the before image was very flat in comparison..



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Old 07-13-2012, 10:48 PM   #9097
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Looks great. I'd like to see the color version.
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Old 07-14-2012, 01:00 AM   #9098
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Originally Posted by SkimSTI View Post
yea IS/VR lenses are definitely worth it (to me they are at least) but i also shoot everything, automotive, land/seascapes, macro, my dogs, and everything in between

like i said, for those dim lit situations where you want lowest iso, and you want to hand hold with shutter speeds like 1/10th-1/40th, its going to help a lot. comes down to what you want. i learned long ago, from Armin, and a few other guys, cheaping out on lenses will only cost you more money in the long run. save up and get what YOU want and something that will fit your needs. and i dont mean 'cheaping out' with VR/IS or Non VR/IS. these are just nice additional features which can help in certain situations.

i had ALL sigma glass when i started. and i love shooting wide open (f1.4 / f2.8) etc, all my images would always be somewhat "soft". and i never knew why until i really started posting in here. slowly started upgrading glass and i noticed a major improvement in clarity almost immediately, not changing any settings or techniques. quality in glass really goes a long way. something you definitely don't want to cheap out on, IMO. you can have a low-mid range body, but thats not controlling all the quality and sharpness in your shots.
To add on to this, I have a 85mm 1.8 and the $100 50mm 1.8. The 85mm was $300 more but infinitely better in terms of quality. Id REALLY like something like a 35mm 1.4.
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Old 07-14-2012, 01:48 AM   #9099
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someone asked for a colored version? not the same edit. i wanted to rework another one. same location, better processing than the original. i spent more time on this one.




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Old 07-14-2012, 02:05 AM   #9100
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Originally Posted by rsutton1223 View Post
I took a short drive this morning after dropping my son off at daycare. It was the first time my car has seen anything lower than 95 degree ambient temps in awhile.

Taken with a 5D Mark III and 135mm/f2 L lens on a closed road.


Go by rsutton198, on Flickr

What's the aperture on these?
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