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Old 06-20-2007, 06:29 PM   #1
Charge
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Location: Cincinnati
Default Replacing steering rack boot, anything else?

I've had a torn steering rack boot(passenger side) for some time. Last winter it created a bit of a grinding noise for a while when cold that myself and others were never able to properly diagnose. Eventually, while under the car, I realized the boot had hardly any grease left in it and was torn at the top.

It moves perfectly fluidly now. I've purchased a replacement boot and have access to a grease gun. I'd like to fix it soon.

Any suggestions on how to go about this? Are there any other parts I'll need to replace while I do so?

I'm slightly concerned about removing the tie rod. As far as I understand,I can compress the boot in, and access the washer on the tie rod to disconnect it. After i do so, I should be able to pull off the old boot and insert the new one. Then re-attach the tie rod and fill the boot with grease.

What am i missing? I've never really delved into the steering rack before.
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Old 06-20-2007, 09:29 PM   #2
UkNuck
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If you're talking about the 'accordion' boots that go over the ends of the rack (covering the inner tie-rod ends) then I don't think they should be grease filled... at least they're not on the 02+



I would think that if anything's escaping from there it would have to be either the grease from inside the inner ball joint housing - which is not user-servicable, you'd need a new inner tie-rod; or PS fluid - meaning that the rack seal is shot on that end.

I don't know how easy it is going to be to get the lock washer off with the rack on the car - there are two indentations where it needs to be pried away from the BJ housing, and you may not be able to get to both from one side:



Have you thought about disconnecting the outer tie rod and sliding the new boot on from that end?
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Old 06-21-2007, 03:15 AM   #3
Charge
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UkNuck View Post
Have you thought about disconnecting the outer tie rod and sliding the new boot on from that end?
I suppose so...but I have a feeling I'm gonna ruin the bushing on that end if I do that. I'm guessing I should just go ahead and replace it at the same time?
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Old 06-21-2007, 07:43 AM   #4
UkNuck
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It may be possible to dislocate the inner/outer rods with the outer bj still in the knuckle - I don't know, I've never tried it. Might be worth a try first though - obviously turning the wheel to full opposite lock first would give the most range. I think you should then be able to unscrew the inner/outer rods (i.e. where the toe adjustment is done). Don't forget to mark it and/or count turns so you can reset the toe.

If the knuckle does not have enough articulation to allow that (i.e. thread still engaged when the knuckle is at full lock) then you would need to pop the bj. If you use a 'pickle fork' to separate the ball joint at the knuckle then yes, you will almost certainly tear that boot too - I tried it. However if you can get ahold of one of these



it should pop right out without damage. If you end up tearing it, then iirc the bj boot is 731335000 and the 'snap ring' that holds it on is 631308040.
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