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Old 06-16-2007, 07:51 PM   #1
firebox40dash5
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Thumbs up TiC Linkage Update



This replaces the 98-05 factory shift linkage yoke, which is riveted together and non-serviceable. My car had the stock short shifter, which had plastic bushings in it that were quite hard, but it looked like they had been deformed over time. I don't know if the normal shifter has rubber bushings or not, but this definitely improved shift feel immensely.

Install: The install is kind of a PITA- you have to support the tranny, drop the rear trans crossmember and spine, and unbolt the front and/or remove the shifter stay (I just unbolted the front and moved it out of the way). If you want to do a tranny mount or crossmember bushings, now would be a good time to install them. The hardest part for me was getting the ***damn roll pin out- that thing was in there good. I spent about 30 minutes hitting it with a 1/4" punch and a 3lb. hand sledge, to no avail, then started drilling it out with a 1/4" bit. A quick call to Tony @ TiC fixed it though- he didn't actually tell me anything I hadn't tried, but the simple fact that I called and asked for advice assured that it would then come out... I did remove the inner roll pin from the outer, unlike the TiC instructions, just to make sure it wasn't what was holding the big roll pin in place. It takes a 3/16" punch. From there, it's pretty simple and self-explanatory. No TTIWWOP- I probably would have hit my camera with the hammer after the first 10 minutes of trying to get the pin out.

Impressions: My shift lever used to bind up going into first from a stop, I'd have to try 2 or 3 times to get it into gear. The linkage update seems to have solved that problem. It also reduced shifter movement in gear quite a bit- it used to wobble about 1" side to side, now it's less than 1/2", and the shift feel is WAY firmer and more precise. Definitely worth the price and install time!

Downsides: TiC was out of cow stickers. I wanted a damn cow sticker. I did, however, get a cool glider.
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Old 06-16-2007, 10:39 PM   #2
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sounds like a nice new product from TIC as usual, just wish they came out with this 4 months ago when i bought EVERY other driveline and shifter bushing they offer and installed them
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:18 PM   #3
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was there any NVH after the install?
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:30 PM   #4
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There was a lot of NVH during the install. Hitting the punch was noisy, and the punch vibrated in my hand when I hit it. When the roll pin was giving me ****, I yelled a lot of harsh words at it.

After the install... no. No increased anything, except shift lever firmness.

Tony or Clint would be able to confirm or deny this, but, it looks like they used the 06+ linkage yoke, and added their linkage bushings and the special bolt to fit it to the 98-05 linkage.
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:38 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firebox40dash5 View Post
There was a lot of NVH during the install. Hitting the punch was noisy, and the punch vibrated in my hand when I hit it. When the roll pin was giving me ****, I yelled a lot of harsh words at it.

After the install... no. No increased anything, except shift lever firmness.

Tony or Clint would be able to confirm or deny this, but, it looks like they used the 06+ linkage yoke, and added their linkage bushings and the special bolt to fit it to the 98-05 linkage.
You are the first to figure it out. That's why we call it an update.
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Old 06-18-2007, 01:41 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
You are the first to figure it out. That's why we call it an update.
Do I win a cow sticker?
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Old 06-18-2007, 02:33 PM   #7
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The install really is a PITA. If you are going to do the linkage, then you might as well upgrade everything else at the same time.

1)Front and rear stay bushing
2)Pivot busing
3)Tranny mount
4)Crossmember mount

The PITA is simply having to remove everything out of the way to access the roll pin. The roll pin wasn't too dificult for me. The difficulty I had was actually getting the linkage to go into the shifter fork. I had to use so much grease to get the linkage into the fork.

The instructions on TIC's website says to put the roll pin back into the new linkage before putting it back on the fork.

I did this first but there was no way to put the new linkage back on the fork.

I had to put the new linkage on the fork and then put the roll pin back on.

Before the new linkage, I had a lot of vertical slop on my shifter. I was hoping this linkage would fix it.

After the install, I still had the vertical slop. I was so depressed that I tighten the pivot bushing even more and that fixed my problem.

I'm thinking if you had horizontal slop on your shifter than this new linkage would help to fix it more then if you had veritcal slop.

The OEM linkage won't let you replace the linkage bushings (located towards the tranny) that affects the horizontal slop.

I wonder if I could of just replaced the linkage bushings (located towards the shifter), instead of buying the whole new linkage, since I didn't have horizontal slop to begin with.

Does anyone agree with my observations?
Or did I just install these wrong?

After doing Uncle Scotty's cocktail, the drivetrain is alot more fun to drive now.

I think I'm gonna upgrade to LGT gears (1st and 2nd) and I will finally be happy with my 5MT.
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:19 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonecold View Post

The instructions on TIC's website says to put the roll pin back into the new linkage before putting it back on the fork.

I did this first but there was no way to put the new linkage back on the fork.
I didn't think this sounded right, and I just double checked. It does not say that. Are these the instructions you used?

http://turninconcepts10.chainreactio...ate/index.html
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:23 PM   #9
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I wound up putting the big roll pin onto a 3/16" punch and starting it that way, then putting the small one on a 1/8" punch to get that started, then using a 5/16" to finish both pins. I had started the big roll pin just a bit before installing the linkage, but it wouldn't stay without protruding inside the hole.

I also had the fork fit the bushings REALLY tight, I just tweaked the fork open a tiny bit with channel-locks.
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
I didn't think this sounded right, and I just double checked. It does not say that. Are these the instructions you used?

http://turninconcepts10.chainreactio...ate/index.html
"Reinstall roll pin. Here's a tip - get a long socket extension, and put the pin in the "cup" end to help hold it in place while you gently tap to start the roll pin. Once you get it started switch back to your punch and drive the pin inward until you can feel it protruding a little bit on top.

Now push the control rod clevis onto the linkage trunnion. It's gonna be tight. That's what we want. Some extra grease may help here. Line up the holes in the clevis with the bore through the crush tube. Insert funky looking new bolt that came with your kit into here from underneath. Make sure the small step toward the head of the bolt fits into the hole on the clevis."

I used your instructions Clint/Tony. Doesn't the above statement sound like to reinstall the roll pin then push the fork into the new linkage?

That is what I did first, and it was nearly impossible to get the correct angle to shove the fork back into the new linkage.

I removed the roll pin. Shoved the fork into the new linkage with a LOT of grease. Then put the roll pin back.
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonecold View Post
"Reinstall roll pin. Here's a tip - get a long socket extension, and put the pin in the "cup" end to help hold it in place while you gently tap to start the roll pin. Once you get it started switch back to your punch and drive the pin inward until you can feel it protruding a little bit on top.

Now push the control rod clevis onto the linkage trunnion. It's gonna be tight. That's what we want. Some extra grease may help here. Line up the holes in the clevis with the bore through the crush tube. Insert funky looking new bolt that came with your kit into here from underneath. Make sure the small step toward the head of the bolt fits into the hole on the clevis."

I used your instructions Clint/Tony. Doesn't the above statement sound like to reinstall the roll pin then push the fork into the new linkage?

That is what I did first, and it was nearly impossible to get the correct angle to shove the fork back into the new linkage.

I removed the roll pin. Shoved the fork into the new linkage with a LOT of grease. Then put the roll pin back.
You missed the sentence before what you quoted :

"Slide clevis onto selector rod coming out of tranny, and line up the holes for the roll pin. Please note the "hump" on the clevis goes up. Reinstall roll pin..."
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Old 07-02-2007, 08:57 AM   #12
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I finally got around to installing this unit yesterday. I also put in a short shifter, pivot bushings, a rear stay bushing (I already had the front one in), and transmission crossmember bushings (I already had a Group-N transmission mount).
I did the shifter/pivot bushing first, then the linkage. The installation was VERY difficult. If you do it, it would be MUCH easier with the final catalyst out of the way.
This linkage is AMAZINGLY stiff, and I didn't even tighten one of the bolts to the specified 11 ft-lbs. (When I did, I couldn't move the trunnion at all).
There were moments during the install when I was ready to give up, and began to question whether it was going to be worth the effort.
All in all, the linkage made more of a difference than all of the other stuff. There is absolutely NO slop in the linkage, and the throws are very short. Shifting is pretty stiff right now, but I would expect it to loosen up a little and/or I'll get used to it.
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Old 08-19-2007, 02:13 PM   #13
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years after I started messing with the STI short-shifter that came installed in my wagon, I've finally gotten all the available upgrades installed.

in installation order:

kartboy front stay bushings
kartboy rear stay bushings
TIC lever pivot bushings (narrow version for STI linkage)
Kartboy short shift lever (1997-2001 version for STI linkage)
STI group-n tranny mount
Kartboy tranny crossmember bushings
TIC 5mt linkage update
Redline 75w-90NS GL-5 gear oil (been using it for the last 45k, changed out every 15k)

shifts are short and very accurate with a notchy precision feel like a good European car - no slop. No increase in harshness, some vibration and rattle in 3rd & 4th gear under hard acceleration (probably the pivot bushings - and probably fixable), and an increase in apparent exhaust volume from my Prodrive axleback likely due to a reduction in overall tranny noise.

the car should come like this from the factory - but at least those with newer vehicles can now buy all this stuff as a package from TIC/Kartboy and not have to wait years like I did for the gradual upgrades to become available.

evolution is nice, but instant gratification is better...
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:18 PM   #14
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installed this weekend:

TiC lever pivot bushings (narrow version for STI linkage)
TiC tranny crossmember bushings
TiC 5mt linkage update
Kartboy front stay bushings
Kartboy rear stay bushings
STI group-n tranny mount

i have to say that the install was a little bit of a pain...took about 2 hours for the installation of everything above. (i should have been done a hell of a lot sooner since i had access to a hoist and air tools)

the most time consuming parts of the day were the removal and installation of the TiC linkage update and the Kartboy rear stay bushings. the fit of these are very snug and difficult to get to.

installed after all of the above (because i forgot how to disassemble the center console) - yeah, i don't want to hear it...

TiC lever pivot bushings (narrow version for STI linkage)

installed in about 15 minutes while doing laundry.

impressions:

it feels much more positive, like the shifter knows where it's going as you're shifting...very predictable. there is a notchy feel to it but nowhere near how a new short-shifter kit feels to shift, uber-firm, squishy, and vague (that is, until it breaks in, then it feels soft, squishy, and vague). the TiC "kit" feels smooth, silky, and firm, almost sexy.

i did notice that there is a bit more of NVH during medium-to-WOT acceleration like some report of after installing a urethane-bushing pitch-stop mount. this can also be heard when compression-braking or downshifting. the vibration transmitted through the shifter is nominal, as is the feel in the steering wheel (although much less than the shifter). this moves the sensation away from the way caddy's feel, vague, insulated, and desensitized, to the way these cars should be made.

kudos to TiC
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Old 09-09-2007, 09:10 PM   #15
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I just installed this today, as stated in every post above the install is a PITA.
Take your time and don't be afraid to put down the tools and take a break when you get frustrated. You're going to have everything apart so if you don't have any of the other shifter / tranny bushings or upgraded mounts now would be the time to install those as well.

The good news is that the shifts are much more positive and shifter slop is pretty much eliminated.

Thanks TiC for a part that needed to be addressed
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Old 12-27-2007, 11:20 PM   #16
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Wow I wish I had found this thread before spending the last 2.5 hours trying to get the linkage lined up once the roll pin is installed.

I guess I will try to pull out the little pin, and install the bushing side, with the bolt, and THEN get the roll pin back in. MAN this is the most frustrating project so far with this car.

Thankfully I will have:

rear stay bushing
front stay bushing
group n tranny mount
tranny crossmember bushings

all done along with the linkage update, so i should be all set for working on that area of the car! Hopefully I can get my car back together!
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Old 12-28-2007, 11:07 AM   #17
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YAY! Managed to open up the bracket on the shift arm and with some help of some white lithium grease I got the little bastard on there!

Would recommend having a lift or a jack that can get the car higher than a dying craftsman jack! ;-)

All said and done it was worth the effort. This part combined with all the other bushings and a kartboy short shifter has exceeded my expectations.

Absolutely precise shifts, easier to find gears and makes me want to keep driving around in my car! I would definitely suggest this mod for anybody who thinks their bushings might be worn out! It made a huge difference for me.
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Old 06-25-2008, 12:39 PM   #18
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I just got this installed about a week ago and it was so worth it. My shifter felt like jelly before and now shifting feels so precise. The install was a bit frustrating at first, but once I got the pin out and the old mushy linkage off it wasn't that bad. Another thumbs up for a great TiC product!
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Old 01-05-2009, 07:15 PM   #19
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The TiC website says, "The install: It's really not that bad." LIES!

Maybe it's just production tolerances, and some cars are "tighter" than others, but it took farking forever to get the damn punch pin out. Bitch pin, as Honda people say. A regular hammer didn't budge the pin; I borrowed a 4 lb sledge, which was better, but it still took an hour of pounding and swearing and... You just have no leverage lying on your back. If this ever has to be done again I'm buying an air hammer.

Then, the clevis on the shift rod was too small for the new bushings. It's supposed to be tight, but there was no way, it was over 1/16" too small. I eventually used some big pliers to open up the clevis a bit.

But now the faces of the clevis aren't perfectly parallel so I couldn't get the bolt through because it kept grabbing the edge of the hole.

But eventually it was done. There's a huge difference in shifting and less driveline lash , but I did it at the same time as all other shifter bushings, Group N tranny mounts, and crossmember bushings, so I can't say if any bushing was more important than any other.
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Old 01-06-2009, 01:58 PM   #20
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I bought the bushing last year but I am still too scared to do the bushings on my car yet!
i may try when the weather gets warmer tho.
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Old 04-02-2011, 08:06 AM   #21
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I did this install on my 04 wrx last night with a buddy.

How we did it. We used a long bolt to get the pin started. The punch wasn't moving it. The bolt had a minute but useful divot on the thread end that held it in place. Trying to use my punch it would just slide off. After that was out I had to smak the stock linkage off with a hammer which took about 10 mins and a few squirts of PB Blaster. Reinstalling the pin was a snap but we spent a good two and a half hours trying to get that shifter side clevis back on. The clevis would push on the bushing until the bushing popped out or folded. I ended up rounding off just a little bit on one side of the lower bushing to act as a ramp which worked out great. I didn't lose any bushing integrity but it made it able to go on and off with minimal effort. If you are going to try that dont shave it all the way to the hole in the bushing, only do it to about a 3rd of the bushing face on one side. I think I took off maybe 1/16th of an inch from the top for the ramp. Forgot my camera. After that we smacked on both clevises until they came together. had to use the arm on the large ratchet to keep the clevis from coming off. You only have enough room to hit it from the driver side which tends to lead it to the passenger side of the car. I used my 1/4 pin punch to help line up the holes in the shifter side clevis. I also drained the tranny and put in some Motul 300

Impressions after the install:
Cheese and Rice! This is amazing. Maybe a 1/4 inch of play total? I already have the front/back stay bushings which helped the front and back play but did nothing for the side to side play. This took care of that. I also had a lot of noise during shifting, like ping noises. I dont know if that is because i switched from the valvoline 85w90 gear oil that midas decided to put in my car for some reason to motul 300 when they redid my clutch or if the linkage is the reason. It also seems to have removed the chatter/rattle i was getting from my shifter. I read on the forums a few other people having that issue.

BTW Midas messing up the maintenance on my car is what inspired me to just work on the car myself. They broke a seal on the tranny when the redid it and i drove for 1k miles with my tranny fluid leaking. didnt find out till i got under the car to install the front/back stay bushings to fix the sudden strange shifting in my car. They said the shifting felt like crap because i had "installed a short shifter." I had only driven the 4 miles to midas with the short shifter installed.
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Old 04-04-2011, 12:17 AM   #22
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I just installed the following:

TIC shifter linkage bushings (05' STi)
Kartboy rear shifter bushing (already had the front one on for years)
TIC Pivot bushing
TIC tranny bushings
Group N Tranny mount
Group N engine mounts

The linkage bushings are a Huge PITA... took me at least 2 hours, a good hour trying to remove the corroded and salt infested u-joint on the shifter.. I didn't realize there were two pins and I removed the first one and then figured out that there was another pin in there... After banging with a hammer and punch pin I got it out... then had to use a hammer to hammer the whole assembly out.. Once I got it out I took my dremel and got all the salt and corrosion off the u-joint inside and out.

Pressing the bushings in were a pain in the ass...lol

Surprizingly the install or resasembly wasn't bad at all.. took me no joke less than 20 mins to install everything back in. Longest part was me trying to thread in the rear kartboy bolt into the rear shifter stay...

Other than that shifting feels good and tight. I had the factory short though so I never really thought it was sloppy to begin with but this now feels more tight. One thing I have noticed though is when I get on it I can hear a vibration/rattleing from the shifter... It's only at certain RPMs... so not sure what's going on there.. It's kinda annoying to be honest.

As far as the engine and tranny mounts... those were fine. The car though at idle has more vibrations.. not sure if this is normal but it feels like the car is stalling or that shaking feeling even thought the RPMS are constant... is this normal? I have also noticed that I can no longer just EASE the clutch out and not give it gas and be able to go... it almost feels like it wants to start to die and I think that's because of the tranny mount.. it's no longer slopping about it feels more connected... But at the sacrafice of a lot more vibrations.

-Nigel
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:01 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy View Post
I just installed the following:

One thing I have noticed though is when I get on it I can hear a vibration/rattleing from the shifter... It's only at certain RPMs... so not sure what's going on there.. It's kinda annoying to be honest.
This mod actually fixed my problem with that but I some people have fixed this with a heaver shifter knob. Vibrations from the drivetrain could be causing your light shifter to bounce. Also, you may have not torqued down the linkage bolts enough.
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Old 04-04-2011, 10:59 PM   #24
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I actually have the TI subaru knob, so it's pretty heavy...

I am pretty sure I torqed the bolts down properly.. when I actually went more they then wouldn't move because it was too tight. So I had to loosen them a tad.

I didn't do it AS much today, but I feel some things have to break in a little bit... It seems to only be at a certain rpm range or decel from that range..

Will drive again here shortly and see how it is.

-Nigel
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:48 PM   #25
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Bumping this thread after I did the install myself. The linkage took out a LOT of the side to side play and I'm very impressed. The installation wasn't very hard I did it in my garage in under 2 hours. The only question I have for others our even TiC themselves is cabin noise. After this install when I drive up to about 4000 rpm and let off the gas still in great I get a rumble from what sounds like the tranny. Should I re grease the bushings? I didn't use a torque wrench so I'm not sure if I tightened something too tight? Too loose? Any and all opinions are appreciated
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