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Old 06-20-2007, 03:10 PM   #1
djoye
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Default AEM Tru Boost electronic boost controller

I've been using the AEM tru boost boost controller for the past five months so I figured I'd do a little write-up on it.

I bought the tru boost to compliment my external waste gate and in hopes of having more consistent boost performance because the stock BCS sucks. I paid around $280 shipped buying this new through eBay. It is by no means fancy but it's actually very consistent, easy to install, and not at all difficult to get used to.

Reading vacuum in inHg (inches of mercury), usually -18 idle, -21 cruising:


In The Box
For info on what's included check out this forum post. At the bottom of the first post is a link to the PDF manual that lists the box contents.

It of course includes everything needed to install the gauge but you will most likely need to buy more vacuum hose for the solenoid and probably have some zip ties handy. Also included are interchangeable black and white gauge faces.

Installation
The instructions are pretty straight forward. You'll connect the gauge to power and ground, run a couple wires to the solenoid and a hose to a vacuum source. I suggest using the place where the stock boost gauge connects. There are diagrams for internal and external waste gates.

The solenoid is a three port so you'll be using two fittings and a sintered muffler. Since they don't include enough hose I bought 6 feet of 1/4" inner diameter hose because I had to fit it over the EWG fittings. If using hose that big you might wanna use some clips/clamps (not pictured) to secure the hose the the solenoid fittings and a reducer fitting at the compressor housing. Also, notice the instructions for the EWG usage; you will use a T-fitting at that cross section and you will use both the top and bottom ports of the EWG. I'm at 45% duty cycle pushing 18.5psi in 3rd gear on my VF22 so that configuration should give you plenty of room to boost.

Also note that there are two positive wires in the wiring instruction, I just put them together on the same tap on the radio's power wire. I suppose one is for the gauge power and the other for the solenoid.

As for placing the solenoid, I zip tied mine to the cruise control box. You should probably avoid putting it near extreme heat but I'm using my stock heat shield and after running the car and checking the heat in that area I feel that the heat shield is working great and the solenoid is in no danger.

This shows where I used a T-fitting:


Used a reducer here, no pills required for aftermarket BCS:


Using both ports on the EWG:


** Check at the bottom for the extras I used for the installation.

Usage
It'll take all of 5 minutes to get accustomed to using the Tru Boost, reading the instructions helps but I'll go through the basics.

Enabling the solenoid. Choosing your boost setting.
- By default the gauge will display "OFF" meaning that the controller is off and you're using waste gate spring pressure. To turn it on/enable the solenoid hold the LEFT BUTTON for a few seconds and release, it should now display "A"; repeat that procedure and you'll be on "B" setting, next you'll be back to the "OFF" setting where it'll be running at waste gate pressure. If you want it to work, I suggest having it on "A" or "B".

- SPr (Spring Pressure): They previously called this "crack pressure" and probably for a good reason. DO NOT put your spring pressure in this setting! I have a 13psi spring, I set SPr to 13.0 and it caused a HUGE lead-in boost spike. I now have it set to 4.00 and boost comes on properly without a spike.

When tuning, watch the gauge (or graph if you're on a dyno). If you're trying to hit 16psi but it spikes to well over that and then settles back down, you need to lower your SPr value.

- Boost settings "A" and "B": This will of course be in duty cycles, NOT PSI! Don't set it to 20 and expect 20psi.

- SEn (pressure sensor): If you're not using their add-on pressure sensor (E), make sure this is set to "I" or the controller will not function.

- FUL (gauge scale): If you're pushing a max of 20psi then set this to 20psi or 21 or whatever. It'll adjust the scale of the display so when the LEDs light up then 20 will be at the end of the scale. I actually never notice the LEDs since the readout is right there in plain numbers.

Performance
Since the tru boost isn't exactly fancy it doesn't have independent gear settings for boost, you'll set a duty cycle and it'll vary ~1psi through the gears.

More importantly though is that it's very consistent. I've been running at 45% duty cycle since I got the car tuned in February and I haven't had to make any adjustments for the 30-40F change in temperature. It is still hitting the same boost it was then.

Conclusion
I'm satisfied and I'd recommend this to others looking to ditch the stock BCS because the price is good at less than $300 and it functions extremely well. I'm very happy because of the five months I've been using it I've had no crap from it and through various weather conditions it has continued to boost the same amount it was boosting the day it was tunNed.

Extras I Used For Installation
- 13400 (optional) hose clamps - Link - Green and Red "HELP!" box
- 47308 assorted vacuum connectors/fittings - NoLink - Purple "VACU-TITE!" box
- #### assorted vacuum Tees - NoLink - Purple "VACU-TITE!" box
- 6-feet of 1/4-inch inner diameter vacuum hose (could probably go smaller if not using EWG)

PDF user manual at the bottom of the first post here:
http://forum.aempower.com/forum/inde...c,17959.0.html
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Old 06-27-2007, 11:45 AM   #2
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great review just what I was looking for!
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Old 06-28-2007, 07:58 PM   #3
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With this boost controller does your wastegate start to crack open before you hit target boost or will it hold closed until you get there? Also, did you pick up any quicker spool compared to the factory boost controller. I've got my car tuned with the gm solenoid but I don't really like the way it acts. It doesn't really overboost but it doesn't seem to be as steady as I think it could be.
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Old 06-28-2007, 09:22 PM   #4
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I'm not really sure if it helped spool and that could be because I have the crack pressure (SPR) set too low. I think you can make it spool faster by adjusting the SPR value but the higher you set that value the greater chance of boost spikes.

It will start opening the waste gate before you hit target boost. You could probably make it hold the gate shut but you're going to have one hell of a boost spike when it's time to open the gate. When I first setup the SPR value I put in 13 (because I have a 13psi spring) and it held shut good but boost shot through the roof or at least that's what the gauge showed. I'd suggest using a dyno or some logging software with a boost readout to watch the graph as it boosts so you can make fine adjustments.

I'm not sure of any electronic boost controllers that'll hold shut until target is hit but I know a cheap mechanical boost controller will accomplish that for you, heh. I've seen a high-dollar Turbosmart start cracking the waste gate before boost and I see it every day with the AEM so I think that's just how it's gonna be.

I love this thing, though.
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Old 08-08-2007, 06:50 PM   #5
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thanks man , this really really helps me out
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Old 06-02-2008, 04:41 PM   #6
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This helps out alot, thanks

Last edited by kick_boxur; 06-02-2008 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 12-11-2008, 08:19 PM   #7
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great write up. i just got one of these...
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Old 12-11-2008, 10:22 PM   #8
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i forward these to my customers...thanks for the write up it really saves me some time
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Old 12-11-2008, 10:49 PM   #9
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Just let me know if anything needs to be clarified and I'll make changes.
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Old 12-11-2008, 11:09 PM   #10
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I love this boost controller, I got one of the first prototype from AEM to try out and I am on my third one since, Prior were sold with vehicle. Holds boost like a champ.
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Old 01-09-2009, 01:46 AM   #11
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Can you take a picture of the hose hook up...i recently changed my DP and when i put the intercooler back into place i was left with an unconnected hose from the Bypass valve...now my tru boost controller sits at 0.00 and the check engine light came on.. any ideas?
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Old 01-09-2009, 02:36 AM   #12
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This is what your connections at your BPV should look like:
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Old 01-09-2009, 03:13 AM   #13
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where do they connect to? the tube that leaves from the right of the BPV where does it connect to...thank you for taking your time to answer my question
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Old 01-09-2009, 06:45 AM   #14
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The Manifold pressure input of the guage ^ I have one and i think i may be in love... Buys seriously its great you can switch between settings in seconds, holds boost great, and is reliable. No more poping the hood, test drive, pop hood, test drive & so on. Just make sure you get your hoses on the right port of the EWG & not Backwards, been there done that by mistake. It will hold pressure on top of the diaphram and it wont open. My own fault just want to give a heads up.
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Old 01-09-2009, 10:36 AM   #15
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Hey if it's not too much trouble , can you post your settings . I know it will be different than mine I just want a point of reference , thanks
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Old 01-09-2009, 12:24 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 20SilverSti05 View Post
where do they connect to? the tube that leaves from the right of the BPV where does it connect to...thank you for taking your time to answer my question
The line coming from the right goes to the boost gauge or AEM boost controller, the line coming up from the back side comes from the manifold pressure. Just make sure all of those lines are connected up. If you have all connections like that in the picture then chances are the manifold pressure line got pulled off. I don't know exactly where on the manifold it connects but if you have a TMIC you might have to pull it off to find it.
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Old 01-09-2009, 12:57 PM   #17
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Here's a better picture:


That hose goes down and connects right near the throttle body.

I've got a 2.0L motor w/VF22 so my settings are probably going to be a lot different.
Crack (spring) pressure: 4.0 (my WG has a .9 bar spring)
A: something around 45% (~20psi)
B: something around 49% (~22psi)

Last edited by djoye; 01-09-2009 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 01-09-2009, 04:11 PM   #18
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My car is down right now, all takin apart with no battery. I believe it was..
Spring Pressure - 4.5lb
Duty Cycle A - 49
Duty Cycle B - 44
Alarm 23.5

I am running a 2.5 w a VF-34 38MMEWG with a 14lb spring. Setting A Gets me about 22psiish. Setting B is 18psi and off of course is 14lb. I want to keep playing with it because in A if i am not going through the gears consecutivly (exsample 1/4 mile) and i am on the street on the highway going from 5th to 3rd (little bit of lugging) its not uncommon to spike.
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Old 01-09-2009, 04:55 PM   #19
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If it spikes then drop the spring pressure value. Mine's a TiAL 30mm EWG w/13.05psi spring and going much over 4.00 gives me lugging (lagginess?) and a spike.
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Old 01-09-2009, 11:40 PM   #20
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I have yet to perfect it, once i get the car back together i am going to play with it some more. Everytime i think i have it set perfict i always seem to find myself next in line at the drag strip scrambling to make tweeks lol
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Old 01-10-2009, 09:45 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06WRBScoob View Post
I have yet to perfect it, once i get the car back together i am going to play with it some more. Everytime i think i have it set perfict i always seem to find myself next in line at the drag strip scrambling to make tweeks lol
^^^^my exact issues
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Old 01-16-2009, 10:24 AM   #22
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OK , i have a question for you guys , I keep getting boost spike between 46K rpm and 54K rpm can anyone tell me what to adjust to stabilize the boost pressure . My settings are SPR 4 and WG% 32 ( blow through , rotated mount setup) it's supposed to hit 23PSI , I get 23 psi to 46K rpm then it spikes to 24/25 ( i hit the brick wall then ) then it goes bk to 23 psi all the way to 7K rpm

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Old 04-17-2009, 01:04 AM   #23
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hey guys, i just switched over from a mbc to this, and my duty cylces and such are way higher than yours, just to read 18 psi i had to reach 5.0 crack pressure and 60% duty cycles on the solenoid, anyone have any ideas? this is all pushing with an fpgreen that used to be at 20 psi, any ideas?
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Old 04-17-2009, 01:47 AM   #24
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IWG or EWG? If EWG I would recommend connecting both of the ports on the WG.
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Old 04-17-2009, 08:22 AM   #25
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i think your settings/results are based on the turbo you use . Cause I just switched out my EWG rotated mount for EWG FP RED and used my settings "A" which gave me 23/24 psi on the rotated setup not I'm only getting 20.6 psi with the EWG RED installed.
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