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Old 05-07-2010, 04:49 PM   #76
bestint
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i love my synapse bov.
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Old 05-09-2010, 09:34 AM   #77
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i picked up a Syn. bov the other day. i love it!!
only thing is, im on a rotated gt35r set up with a blow-thru maf..
now at idle, the bov opens, and i have air blowing out the BOV, not sucking in and this causes the car to stall like a stock bov VTA..
does this happen with BB turbos since they are constantly spooling? will an anti-stall kit close the BOV at idle so it wont die?
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:27 PM   #78
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Did you ever figure out what was wrong? Did you fix the problem?
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Old 08-04-2010, 09:14 AM   #79
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Here's my thread about installing the synapse on an old school bugeye, with the newest and biggest Sti tmic (the 08+ is bigger than any JDM).

Also in it is discussed the occurance of blowing off in idle. This may have to do with compressor efficiency in idle.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1771422

Obviously, it can be done. My power level is now 300WHP, this works nicely for me, my tuner was very impressed with it as well.
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Old 08-04-2010, 10:16 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twiztidunreal View Post
i picked up a Syn. bov the other day. i love it!!
only thing is, im on a rotated gt35r set up with a blow-thru maf..
now at idle, the bov opens, and i have air blowing out the BOV, not sucking in and this causes the car to stall like a stock bov VTA..
does this happen with BB turbos since they are constantly spooling? will an anti-stall kit close the BOV at idle so it wont die?
I have a 30r on a 2.1 stroker. Mine blows air out the synchronic as well. However, I am not blow through and do not have the stalling issues. It sounds like it is metering the air twice in your case if you have it set up in re-circ mode. You will probalby need to vent to atmosphere.
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Old 08-04-2010, 10:34 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NITROS View Post
I have a 30r on a 2.1 stroker. Mine blows air out the synchronic as well. However, I am not blow through and do not have the stalling issues. It sounds like it is metering the air twice in your case if you have it set up in re-circ mode. You will probalby need to vent to atmosphere.
it is VTA it its just blows air out the BOV while at idle, if i touch the throttle it slams shut of course then opens as soon as i let off again..

i installed an anti-stall on it, but if i tighten the anti-stall tight enough for the air to not push out, i get low level surge(i got this bov to get rid of my HKS surge), if its not tight enough, i might as well not have the anti-stall on..

idk, it might just need to be something the tuner can adjust for in the ECU
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Old 08-04-2010, 11:01 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twiztidunreal View Post
it is VTA it its just blows air out the BOV while at idle, if i touch the throttle it slams shut of course then opens as soon as i let off again..

i installed an anti-stall on it, but if i tighten the anti-stall tight enough for the air to not push out, i get low level surge(i got this bov to get rid of my HKS surge), if its not tight enough, i might as well not have the anti-stall on..

idk, it might just need to be something the tuner can adjust for in the ECU
Low boost compressor surge can only be fixed with proper setting of the bov. Have you tried to adjust the spring? Your spring in the synchronic may need to be adjusted via the allen bolt on top of the bov.

Also have your tried calling synapse? I've called them before i purchased mine to talk to them and proper set up they were willing to help me.
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Old 08-04-2010, 11:03 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TYWRAP View Post
Will the synapse bov work on a turboxs flange?
I attached mine to the txs flange via a rubber tube, and clamped it on both ends.
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Old 08-05-2010, 12:00 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Twiztidunreal View Post
it is VTA it its just blows air out the BOV while at idle, if i touch the throttle it slams shut of course then opens as soon as i let off again..

i installed an anti-stall on it, but if i tighten the anti-stall tight enough for the air to not push out, i get low level surge(i got this bov to get rid of my HKS surge), if its not tight enough, i might as well not have the anti-stall on..

idk, it might just need to be something the tuner can adjust for in the ECU
Thats the issue with the anti stall cap. It's basically a band aid for MAF cars.
The 3076 seems to flow a good amount of air at idle and the spring used with the anti stall cap has to be very light to work properly. I would suggest running only the B port, it is the vac fitting on the top of the valve in the back. It will cause the valve not to open as much in idle but still be very responsive. You might also notice when using the anti stall that cruising on the highway in very low vac air can get past the cap and cause the car to bog. Re circulating will give the best driveability.
Here is a cross section to give you an idea on how the thing operates
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Old 08-09-2010, 01:45 PM   #85
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has anyone checked out their newest release? http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f51/...evision-29232/

wondering if it will cure any of these issues. i'd like to put one on my Perrin TMIC, but looks like it might not be (easily) possible...
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Old 01-03-2011, 05:09 AM   #86
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I wantz the Chronic DV
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Old 01-14-2011, 09:52 AM   #87
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:50 AM   #88
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we love these things!
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:51 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by island boyeee View Post
has anyone checked out their newest release? http://www.wrxtuners.com/forums/f51/...evision-29232/

wondering if it will cure any of these issues. i'd like to put one on my Perrin TMIC, but looks like it might not be (easily) possible...

The diverter valve will work great on a Perrin TMIC
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Old 01-20-2011, 01:22 AM   #90
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I have the revised smaller synapse synchronic diverter valve and I love it. No clearance issues with the stock tmic since the design is way smaller than then previous version.
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Old 01-20-2011, 01:07 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolocopoand View Post
I have the revised smaller synapse synchronic diverter valve and I love it. No clearance issues with the stock tmic since the design is way smaller than then previous version.
This one?





Contact Adam at No Limit Motorsport for pricing details. 866-381-4618
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Old 01-20-2011, 11:16 PM   #92
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Yup that's the sexy little beast. Got it from the homies at group 5 motorsports, had to wait like 3 mins so you guys could walk across the street and drop it off lol. Love how lots of the manufacturers I get my parts from are in San Diego/Miramar area like you guys and kartboy, just like a 7 min drive from my house =)
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Old 01-21-2011, 06:51 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyBlue View Post
Here is a cross section to give you an idea on how the thing operates
Yes, how does this thing operate?

Here's what I can figure out, I'd like to get some additional info from those that have it..

The ports A and B get source from the connection by the BPV. They can have vacuum as well as pressure.

Why are there two ports, why the arrangement with chamber A and B?
Because this doubles the surface area onto which the pressure can act, on the back of the red piston?

Why that chamber by port A? Is that whole area the spring channel, and port A is just used for "lift-off"?

Port C is picking up pressure in a higher pressure location than the other two, through a smaller diameter connector.
This is tricky, because inside the compressor housing, with the TD04 you may have vacuum, but not so with the TD05 and up.

So how DOES this work?

Here's a version...

The pressure in the intercooler, as well as in the ports A and B, plus the spring force, keep the blue valve seated, slid all the way to the left.

A suddain closing of the throttle is not affecting the ports A and B that much, as they are downstream from the throttle, the pick-up is low in the manifold.
Port C will see a surge in pressure, so it will have to overcome the spring and the pressure in the main chamber that seems to want to keep the blue valve seated. This I'm not sure how it works..

In idle, with ports A and B in vacuum, they act against the spring and want to open the blue valve. Port C, if it has vacuum, would oppose them slightly, together with the main intercooler connection.
The spring pre-tension was probably tuned for this OEM situation.

If you have the port C in pressure, the opening at idle will be much more significant. SO the pre-tension would have to be adjusted.

The factory repair manual clearly indicates the OEM tune is such as the ECU expecting to by-pass the turbo and intercooler assembly and sucking vacuum air through the bypass tube (hence the name), at idle and maybe the lightest loads.
These would be closed loop situations. I'm not sure how much closed loop modification the tuners implement and how much idle mixture tuning is done these days.
So a good idea may be to mechanically tune this situation, using the pre-tension spring..
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:46 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Yes, how does this thing operate?

Here's what I can figure out, I'd like to get some additional info from those that have it..

The ports A and B get source from the connection by the BPV. They can have vacuum as well as pressure.
Yes, just like all bpv on the market today they all use this principal

Why are there two ports, why the arrangement with chamber A and B?
Because this doubles the surface area onto which the pressure can act, on the back of the red piston?
A and B are two separate chambers that can operate independently from one another. B is a larger surface area than A. This allows the end user to tailor or fine tune what works best with their application.
Why that chamber by port A? Is that whole area the spring channel, and port A is just used for "lift-off"?
The chamber by port A is a spring channel. This is to adjust spring pre-load. Every application is different, so having two springs (one small spring in the A camber and one larger main spring in the B camber) allows the end user to adjust how much spring pressure is needed to operate the valve.
If you look at the cutaway you can see there is a groove in the top tier of the piston.(to the right) This sections off the entire top tier from the lower tier, so the entire top(right) section of the red piston is the port A chamber


Port C is picking up pressure in a higher pressure location than the other two, through a smaller diameter connector.
This is tricky, because inside the compressor housing, with the TD04 you may have vacuum, but not so with the TD05 and up.
You don't necessarily have vacuum in your charge air system (IC pipes) when the car is in vac. Port C is picking up a boost only signal, while port A and B are picking up boost vac. Newer revisions of the valve have moved port C to the boost chamber just inside the valve where the blue valve is, no longer requiring the end user to source a separate signal. This allows for large intercoolers that may have a significant pressure drop between the turbo and the valve where most people get their boost only signal.

So how DOES this work?
I hope I have answered some of your questions.

My working explanation:
Lets say you have this valve set up on a FMIC kit where the BOV is placed fairly close to the TB like the stock bpv.
Both ports A and B are connected together and sharing the same boost/vac source from the intake manifold. This is a newer revision so there is no longer a port C, port C is an internal port that takes its pressure signal from the boost camber inside the valve.
In idle the car is generating vacuum and the valve is open, this is normal because this is a pull type valve vacuum is pulling the valve open. In a MAP system even on a TD04 there will be a slight amount of pressure coming from the valve. Even at idle your turbo is spinning, creating more pressure than the manifold can take in causing a slight buildup of pressure in your IC pipes. Kind of like having a small fan in your pipes.
When driving you go into boost, the AB ports change from vac to pressure pushing the valve closed. Spring pressure is also pushing the red piston to the left. Boost pressure is flowing into the chamber pushing the blue valve closed (left). The same amount of boost pressure that is pushing the blue valve closed (left) is acting on the C chamber, pushing against the red piston (right). The same amount of pressure is pushing on all sides of the valve except spring pressure.
In actuality the only thing holding the valve closed is the spring. If you were able to push on the blue valve while the bov was closed it would open easily. So under any pos pressure (1-100psi) you could easily push the valve open with your finger.
You let off the throttle. The resulting change in pressure from the manifold and the IC pipes opens the valve. This happens because the bov is placed in front of the TB while the AB chambers are connected to the manifold post TB. The change in manifold pressure affects the AB ports only. Pressure drops in these chambers allowing the C chamber to override spring pressure opening the valve. The boost in the C chamber is helping push the valve open.

Hopefully my narrative helps anyone understand what goes on under normal operating conditions.
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Old 01-23-2011, 11:34 AM   #95
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Couple things:

I don't necessarily agree that the same ammount of pressure acts on both sides of the mechanism, meaning that all that holds the valve shut is the spring.
You have the pressure acting on the blue valve and on the left C chamber of the red piston.

Then, in addition to this, you have the closing force generated by the pressure in ports A and B.

The pressure results from the force applied on the area, so these can be equal if we aggree that the sum of the inner surface of the blue valve and port A and B piston surfaces equals the port C red piston surface.

Visually, this does not seem to be the case. But the force of the air in ports A and B is reduced, compared to port C, due to the pick-up points. So the air pressure develloped is less measured at the ports A and B, vs C.

So, they could be equal. The same force COULD be applied to both sides, with the spring closing the valve.

I like to talk about the old style valve, with port C, because this is what I have.

I don't agree completely that when you get off the throttle, only ports A and B are affected. I think the pressure increases inside the intercooler and the whole compressor to intercooler ducting. This will be picked up by port C.
But how quickly, I don't know..

I need a bit more details about adjustment with ports A and B.

Let's say you want to tune the functioning of this valve:

-You start with both ports conected and with a base spring pre-tension.

You have 3 items to change: run either of the two ports, both and tune the spring pre-tension in each case.

What does running each case change?

Case 1, both connected.

-Maximum vacuum in idle, the spring needing to compensate for this, probably more pre-load needed.

-Maximum closing force at boost, which can result in only the spring being needed for closing force or maybe the ballance is tipped towards a small amount of closing air force.
Either way, minimum spring force needed for closing at full boost

-Slowest closing action at off-throttle situations.
Minimum spring pre-load needed, to speed it up.

To sum it, proper function with this could be with relatively lower spring pre-load and accepting more air moving through the valve at idle.

Cases 2 and 3

-Less air in idle moves through

-Less closing force at boost, more spring force needed.

-Faster closing action

I'm trying to come up with a general conclusion here:

If you're running a FMIC and the valve is further away from the throttle, subject to a slower response, due to a larger volume of air needing to fill the TMIC, you may need a faster valve response and start using only 1 of the A and B ports, as needed.

For TMIC, seems that A and B should be used.
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Old 02-01-2011, 10:26 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroDrift View Post
I have been using a Synapse Engineering Synchronic BOV for 6 months now, and I am VERY pleased with the results. I replaced a HKS SSQV BOV, and it made a very notable difference in drive-ability as well as not causing compressor surge. I will be buying one for my girlfriends Impreza in the next few weeks. In fact, this is the best BOV I've ever encountered, and will I will be a repeat customer.
Update: The BOV is working perfectly since 2008! No issues to date! Now both cars are using the Synapse BOV with great success.


Thank you Synapse for making a quality product!
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Old 02-01-2011, 12:02 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroDrift View Post
Update: The BOV is working perfectly since 2008! No issues to date! Now both cars are using the Synapse BOV with great success.


Thank you Synapse for making a quality product!
Zero- thank you for giving the product a chance to prove itself when all we were getting at the time was negativity.

If you go on our facebook.com/synapseengineering page, you'll see exactly how many cycles we're testing product and just how robust the design truly is.
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Old 05-18-2011, 10:06 AM   #98
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So I had to do a rebuild, so decided to do a swap.

With the swap, did not want to mod the throttle body anymore, so switched from my TMIC full size synapse BPV with recirculate, to the new Synapse Diverter valve.

I got this yesterday and will probably install soon.
I need help with couple things:

1: For some reason, I did not get two straingt and two 90 degrees fittings, but one and one. Would you sell me another, so I can have a pair?
2: Would you sell me a spare kit of o-rings? The valve intake flange bit off the o-ring when I tried to assemble it. I put in the o-ring first.

Why not put up some videos on youtube about how push vs pull sounds and about your reccomended method of installation?
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:07 PM   #99
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Hi Vlad,

It sounds like the vendor/dealer you purchased the DV from grabbed the wrong Boost Connect kit. You should be able to contact them and get the proper Boost Connect kit sent to you.

As far as the O-ring is concerned, I need to know what generation of flange you have currently on the car. Please take a look at the following image.

The DV is incompatible with the older style flanges.
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:52 PM   #100
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I have the new style and the flange is a Subaru flange, not this weld-on universal flange.

I also have the discharge flange for Subaru. Do the o-rings from the two interchange?

I looked at your kits, in the spare parts section of your site. Correct me if I'm wrong, but all kits come with a pair of connectors, not with two connectors of two types.
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