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Old 07-10-2007, 09:16 PM   #1
Augie 1
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Default HELP! A/C Problem - Overfilled my R134a?

Hey guys,
My beater is a 98 Civic and the A/C wasn't blowing as cool as usual so I tried one of those DIY kits from Autozone that has r134a refrigerant + oil to help seal leaks. Anyway, the kit said it takes about 10-15 minutes for the refrigerant to fill but mine took about 1 minute and the can was empty. Now the A/C compressor constantly turns off, on, off, on, off, on when I turn on the A/C. DId I overfill it? The gauge read about 40psi when full, which is in the "Filled" range.

Can I simply bleed some out without damaging anything? Should I buy an A/c vacuum to relieve moisture?
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Last edited by Augie 1; 07-10-2007 at 09:25 PM.
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Old 07-11-2007, 02:52 AM   #2
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if there isn't any refrigerant in the system it really needs to be looked at. You can't just charge it and expect it to work.
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Old 07-11-2007, 04:59 AM   #3
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I don't trust the gauges on those kits from WalMart/AutoZone, etc AT ALL. But I DO use those kits a lot and they work great as a stop-gap measure on an older car with AC problems not worth fixing.

I doubt your compressor is bad if its cycling. Thats classic "I need more R134A to stay on" mode. I'm not aware of that being a symptom of too much AC juice in the system, but it could be. You can at least verify that the compressor is ok by putting 12V on the compressor or just jump the safety switch and see if it will spin constantly that way. If it does your compressor is fine. The best way would be to at least get a good gauge. Otherwise pay to have them actually suck out the old and put new stuff in, to the right pressures.

Last edited by BillyD; 07-11-2007 at 06:48 AM.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:17 AM   #4
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It could be too much or too little.

Are you measuring from the Low side with the AC ON? Because you need to do that.

I have had to bleed off some pressure from one of my cars to make it work once, the stupid dealership had overfilled it. Just use a screw driver, like bleeding pressure from a tire. Bleed half a second at a time until the compressor decides to stay on.

Unless of course you need MORE pressure, then don't do that.

Tell ya what: call someone who knows wtf they're doing to come look at it.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:37 AM   #5
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Just take it to a professional, It will save you time and money in the long road.



<------------figured this out the hard way.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:20 AM   #6
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ine was going on/off (quick cycles). the belt was having difficulty turning the compressor over. tightened the belt a little, tried it, got home and the belt was gone. apparently under acceleration the belt was still slipping (burning up). this was a new belt. changed the belt and im still having the same problem. im taking to subaru as soon as the warranty t/f goes through.

spoke w /tech.... my compressor is shot

Last edited by krambte79; 07-11-2007 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:23 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ozzman View Post
Just take it to a professional, It will save you time and money in the long road.



<------------figured this out the hard way.
The pros told me I needed a whole new system.

A few minutes with the DIY recharge kit and it was good to go. Been blowing cold for two years now.
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogue View Post
The pros told me I needed a whole new system.

A few minutes with the DIY recharge kit and it was good to go. Been blowing cold for two years now.
if you can find a good pro to purge and fill, that's one thing. And, they can do a much better job than the diy fill kits, that's for sure.

How many ever recommend that over a whole new system, though? zero? yep, zero.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:53 AM   #9
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Yeah those cheap kits actually do work. I was a little skeptical at first myself. upgraded turbo and went to sti tmic well I failed to pay much attention to the IC resting against the a/c line against the firewall and eventually it rubbed a tiny pinhole through it and no more a/c for me. Had thought about giving jb weld a shot cause its cheap and the hole was so small that I didn't think it'd see enough pressure to keep jb weld from working. Went to the subaru dealership to buy a new line cause I thought my first idea might not work and found out the line was $220+. I could have sworn somewhere on here someone said it was <125 but I guess not. Figured might as well give jb weld a shot. patched the hole up. Took it to my bro's work where he hooked it up to an a/c machine and he ran a vacuum on the system to clean it out. went to advance and bought an a/c recharge kit. $25 later I have a/c that blows colder than I remembered it doing in the past.
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Old 07-11-2007, 09:59 AM   #10
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you have to have gauges that hook up to the high and low pressure sides of the A/C system. Then you pull a vacuum on the system to get rid of any moisture. Then you fill up on the high pressure side and check the gauge on the low pressure side. It really is pretty easy if you have the right tools and know what to look for. It costs me $20 to fill it up, instead of $100 at some grease monkey's shop.
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:01 AM   #11
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Or you just get the autozone fill kit with one gauge. You turn your AC on and hook up to the Low pressure side and read the gauge. If it's low, you add more. Eventually you get to a point where the compressor kicks in for appropriate periods of time and your AC blows cold.
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:13 AM   #12
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^yup, thats how mine worked.
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Old 07-11-2007, 10:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogue View Post
It could be too much or too little.

Are you measuring from the Low side with the AC ON? Because you need to do that.

I have had to bleed off some pressure from one of my cars to make it work once, the stupid dealership had overfilled it. Just use a screw driver, like bleeding pressure from a tire. Bleed half a second at a time until the compressor decides to stay on.

Unless of course you need MORE pressure, then don't do that.

Tell ya what: call someone who knows wtf they're doing to come look at it.
Has anyone else tried bleeding the pressure? I am 99% sure that it is OVER-filled. The A/C was working ok before adding refrigerant to the Low pressure side, I was just trying to add a little to make it colder...
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:09 PM   #14
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bump...
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Old 07-11-2007, 12:29 PM   #15
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Ya really need proper gauges to determine how much to bleed. Along with a pressure/temp/humidity chart. Pressures in the system change with the air temp and humidity. you should be seeing around 30 psi on the low side and about 260-280 on the high side.
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:02 PM   #16
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As a side note, is the compressor in 2002 WRX supposed to cycle often? I was under the impression that it was, but I'm worried now that people are saying if it is cycling there is too much or too little. It blows cold air just fine either way.
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aod View Post
As a side note, is the compressor in 2002 WRX supposed to cycle often? I was under the impression that it was, but I'm worried now that people are saying if it is cycling there is too much or too little. It blows cold air just fine either way.

depends on your cabin blower speed and how cold the evaporator coil is, the compressor will cycle off when the evap coil hits a certain temp. However, it should probably take at least 2-3 minutes between cycles, if not longer.
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:18 PM   #18
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My ac took a dump about 2 weeks ago. It's been digustingly hot/humid around here in Kentucky.

After reading this thread, I grabbed the refill kit I used to charge my car about 2 months ago and went out and refilled it with a bottle.

No more sweating like a fat chick in line at Burger King.

I do have a question, where are leaks most likely to occur on a ac system? I know that AC's are not suppose to lose R134 in 2 months.
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Old 07-11-2007, 01:19 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scuzzy View Post
depends on your cabin blower speed and how cold the evaporator coil is, the compressor will cycle off when the evap coil hits a certain temp. However, it should probably take at least 2-3 minutes between cycles, if not longer.
Hmm, not good then. My compressor is cycling on for maybe 5-10 seconds and then cycling off for maybe 5-10 seconds.
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Old 07-12-2007, 08:35 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ted dibiase View Post
you have to have gauges that hook up to the high and low pressure sides of the A/C system. Then you pull a vacuum on the system to get rid of any moisture. Then you fill up on the high pressure side and check the gauge on the low pressure side. It really is pretty easy if you have the right tools and know what to look for. It costs me $20 to fill it up, instead of $100 at some grease monkey's shop.

Potential Danger!

please don't try to fill from the high pressure side. Low pressure side only!!!!
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Old 07-12-2007, 08:39 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Hmm, not good then. My compressor is cycling on for maybe 5-10 seconds and then cycling off for maybe 5-10 seconds.
I think that's fine. I don't know who has a 2-3 minute compressor. Not me, that's for sure!

If it's blowing cold and the car isn't bucking like a bronco, you're fine.

When my Outback had low pressure, the thing would click on and off every second. You could tell there was a problem.
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Old 07-12-2007, 09:39 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robmarch View Post

Potential Danger!

please don't try to fill from the high pressure side. Low pressure side only!!!!
Wow, yeah, I didn't notice that. I don't know a whole lot about AC, but I do know that you don't fill on the high pressure side unless you enjoy picking R134a can fragments out of your skin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rogue View Post
I think that's fine. I don't know who has a 2-3 minute compressor. Not me, that's for sure!

If it's blowing cold and the car isn't bucking like a bronco, you're fine.

When my Outback had low pressure, the thing would click on and off every second. You could tell there was a problem.
Cool, that's what I figured too. I timed it yesterday. It is about 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off. I remember it doing the same thing when I got it new as well.
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Old 07-12-2007, 03:49 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augie 1 View Post
Hey guys,
My beater is a 98 Civic and the A/C wasn't blowing as cool as usual so I tried one of those DIY kits from Autozone that has r134a refrigerant + oil to help seal leaks. Anyway, the kit said it takes about 10-15 minutes for the refrigerant to fill but mine took about 1 minute and the can was empty. Now the A/C compressor constantly turns off, on, off, on, off, on when I turn on the A/C. DId I overfill it? The gauge read about 40psi when full, which is in the "Filled" range.

Can I simply bleed some out without damaging anything? Should I buy an A/c vacuum to relieve moisture?

So I drained some coolant by pressing the Low pressure valve several times. The car is now running fine so I guess it was Over-filled.
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Old 07-12-2007, 04:01 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rogue View Post
I think that's fine. I don't know who has a 2-3 minute compressor. Not me, that's for sure!

If it's blowing cold and the car isn't bucking like a bronco, you're fine.

When my Outback had low pressure, the thing would click on and off every second. You could tell there was a problem.
I don't know a whole lot about A/C systems, but I do know that the cycle shouldn't be as short as 5-10 seconds, that's not enough time for the evaporator to even warm up on full blast (that takes a good 30 seconds from being ice cold, at least in my car)

I know older legacies had a problem with the thermocouple on the evap core, telling the compressor when to cycle on and off - it would wear out, and make the compressor cycle rapidly, hang on, or stay off.

I just think a 5-10sec cycle time is way too short, it should be longer.
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Old 07-12-2007, 04:13 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Augie 1 View Post
So I drained some coolant by pressing the Low pressure valve several times. The car is now running fine so I guess it was Over-filled.
That'd be the problem. There shouldn't be any coolant in your A/C system.

refrigerant
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