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Old 01-04-2002, 02:44 PM   #1
DCC
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Default Break-In Advice

1) is there a need for an oil change at 1000miles?
2) does the factory fill break-in oil during production?
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Old 01-06-2002, 07:34 AM   #2
IFANTIG
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I'm no expert but here's what I did so far:

1) Changed the oil at a little over 1000 miles. You really don't have to unless you're anal like me. Subaru recommends 3000 in the manual, so that should be just fine, but an oil change only costs 20 bucks so who cares.
2) For the first 1000 miles, I never revved past 4500 rpm. I also heard that the best way to break in the engine is to drive at different speed intervals instead of one steady speed for a prolonged period of time.

I am not sure about the factory oil question. You'll probably get a different mix of suggestions on this forum, but if you just take it easy for the first thousand miles, your car should be just fine. Good Luck.
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Old 01-09-2002, 06:24 PM   #3
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You didn't ask this but I;ll answer anyway

Be sure not to drive the car hard to 4000 RPMs. I would not avoid high RPMs as much as I would avoid putting 14psi of boost on new rings. To say it another way, I would rather gently accelerate to 6000 RPMs than floor it to 4000 RPMs.

If your car had more than 50 miles on it when you bought it, it had the **** beat out of it already anyway so don't worry
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Old 01-10-2002, 11:44 PM   #4
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just drive it "normally" and everyonce in awhile get on it! that's how broke my car in! and i did my first change at 3000...but i did resest the ecu at 1000...like it really made a difference!
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Old 01-15-2002, 01:56 PM   #5
hotrod
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Default remember your breaking in more than the engine

You are also breaking in more than just the engine you will be breaking in the gears in the transmission, the differential gears, conditioning the brakes and the clutch/flywheel assembly.

For the gears you want to make some brief high load accelerations with plenty of cooling time between. This allows the gears to burnish each other so the well give you maximum life. To accomplish this during the first couple of days try at make a couple of acceleration spurts in each gear, followed by a few minutes of easy driving.

For the brakes you need to make a series of moderately hard stops with plenty of time for the brakes to cool. This is pretty much covered by stop and go driving. For the final brake conditioning you want to make a couple of progressively harder stops from high speed, again giving your brakes plenty of time to cool between each hard stop.

The clutch lining is much like the brake pad material and until it has been stressed a little it will not have its maximum grip on the fly wheel. It will also stink a bit the first few times you get it hot as it cooks off the binders in the friction material. Pretty much the same drill, make a few progressively harder launches with plenty of time between for everything to cool down and your good to go.


Ideal break in for the engine if your car is very low milage ? This is what I did:

At the dealer, started the engine and let it idle at a fast idle (1500 - 2000 rpm) for a half hour while I read through the owners manual. Drive home easy (about 6 miles for me) park the car and let it cool until it is stone cold.

Take the car out for easy around town driving, city streets, residential streets. Found a neighborhood that had stop signs every block and just drove around for an hour. Took it home and let it cool.

Second day went on a long trip 150 miles each way with occasional acceleration bursts and progressively harder brake applications at off ramps.

third day just drive it


In the 60's Chrysler corporation advocated the following sequence to break in thier factory drag race monsters (street hemi's)

warm the car up to full operatiing temp then let it cool completely.
run a 1/4 mile pass at 1/4 throttle, let it cool completely.
run a 1/4 mile pass at 1/2 throttle, let it cool completely.
run a 1/4 mile pass at 3/4 throttle, let it cool completely.
run a 1/4 mile pass at full throttle, let it cool completely.

Go racing

I made my first oil change at 2000 miles, switching to mobil 1

I just made my second oil change at 15,600 miles!!
I had no detectable oil consumption.

Why so long on the second change ?
I believe oil changes should be made on a time basis. I change oils every 6 months, June and January. In january I switch to a winter weight oil just before the bitter cold season. I switch in June to a summer weight just before the hottest weather. Been doing this for many years, with very good success.

For what its worth
Larry
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Old 01-15-2002, 05:54 PM   #6
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Default Re: remember your breaking in more than the engine

Quote:
Originally posted by hotrod

I made my first oil change at 2000 miles, switching to mobil 1

I just made my second oil change at 15,600 miles!!
I had no detectable oil consumption.

Why so long on the second change ?
I believe oil changes should be made on a time basis. I change oils every 6 months, June and January. In january I switch to a winter weight oil just before the bitter cold season. I switch in June to a summer weight just before the hottest weather. Been doing this for many years, with very good success.

For what its worth
Larry
I can't belive you wait that long!! What does your oil look like when you drain it? Have you ever takin it down to a place to have them test your oil? Some companies will do it free.

I would advise against waiting that long between oil changes. YOu may not be burning oil but I doubt its good for your motor. You say you have been doing this for many years but have you ever kept a car for many years?
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Old 01-15-2002, 07:54 PM   #7
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Yep well over 100,000 miles on every car I've ever owned.

The kind of miles I put on a car, 15,000 in 7 months, I'd go broke with the typical drain schedule.

On my 1978 Jeep Pickup I got 153,000 miles on it when I decided to get it rebuilt. The valve stem clearences still were within OEM specs, cylinder wear could barely be detected, there was only a faint ring ridge at the top of the cylinder. I could have simply run a hone down the cylinder to create a good surface for the new rings to seat on, and just slapped it back together.

Speaking of synthetic oils quote from the book "performance with economy"

"These oils last longer, giving between two and four times the milage per oil change." pp 117


From the book "Smokey Yunick's Power Secrets"

"A synthesized oil will also decrease the component "wear" normally associated with high-speed engines. We have often torn down engines lubricated with synthetic oil after 500 miles of hard racing and found absolutely no signs of internal wear. The operating surfaces usually looked like they had been polished smooth and their bearings were like new, except for a rather distinctive brown tone they would sometimes aquire." pp 107


"also we have found that if you use a synthetic in a newly assembled engine, the rings may not seat properly. Even with a perfectly round bore, an extremely smooth bore finish and moly-faced rings, it is best to break in the engine with a mineral based oil. This initial breakin period only needs to be 30 - 60 minutes long, then you can safely switch to a synthetic." pp 108


From the book "Four stroke performance tuning"

"How often the oil should be changed will depend on the air temperature, and driving conditions. Stop-start driving and cold weather under 10 C /50 F are hardest on oil, while long distances between stops with little or no engine idling in warm weather 20 C / 70 F is very easy on todays oils. In the first instance I would be changing Mobil 1 every 4,000 miles or four months, which ever came first. In the latter situation Mobil 1 would provide good protection up to 12,000 miles or six months; however, I would change the filter at the midway point."

No matter how good your oil is, it must be maintained at the correct temperature to lubricate effectively. A good deal of engine wear takes place because engines are operated with cold oil and /or water. An engine should never be driven hard until the oil reaches 50 C whil the ideal operating temperature is 90-100 C."

PP 285

etc. etc. etc.

For what its worth
Larry

Last edited by hotrod; 12-05-2005 at 01:28 AM.
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Old 01-16-2002, 09:36 PM   #8
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Thanks hotrod that's good information. My oil never gets to 90 C unless my car is stuck in traffic. My normal oil temp is about 70C, unless I get up to high speeds in these winter months, then it will drop to 60C.

I also always wait for the oil to reach 50C before I get on the throttle hard.

Anyone know at what oil temperature I should begin to worry with Mobil 1 full synthetic? Considering my needle has never gone above 90C even when I beat the car like a rented mule I would be afraid when the temp went above 90C.
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Old 01-16-2002, 09:58 PM   #9
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Default max oil temp

Hmmmm same sources as above post. There is pretty good agreement on these numbers.

Smokey recommends
ideal temp 230-260 deg F (110 - 127 deg C)
max working of 260 deg F (127 C)
absolute max 285 deg F (141 deg C)

Performance tuning recommends
Ideal temp 90 - 100 deg C ( 194 - 212 deg F)
130 deg C ( 266 deg F)for short periods but bearing failure possible in a race engine above this temp.

Usually lose power above 105 deg C (221 deg F)


Book "Maximum Boost"
max temp mineral oil 230 deg F ( 110 deg C)
max temp synthetic 270 deg F ( 132 def C)


FWIW
Larry
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Old 12-21-2002, 02:47 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corn-Picker
I also always wait for the oil to reach 50C before I get on the throttle hard.
I don't have an oil temp gauge How long before the oil gets to 50 deg C under various conditions (e.g. first thing in the morning: 20 deg F air temp., 40 deg F air temp., and 70 deg F air temp.)?

Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2002, 05:33 PM   #11
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All of these methods are well and fine. I am glad to see people sharing their ideas on this subject and backing their claims with useful information.

BUT!

Have you ever considered that the salesmen at the dealerships who took customers out in these vehicles didn't regard the warnings in the owners manuals with their attempts to show off the perfomance of the WRX. Then consider that they let the customers take over the vehicle's controls for a spin so they could "feel" how powerful the motor is on boost.

I am not saying that all salesmen/buyers do this, but on average, don't you think the 4,000 rpm break in limit was broken on many of the WRX's sold?

NOMAD
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Old 12-21-2002, 11:57 PM   #12
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Nomad,

Definately right on about the test drive situation. I know I broke it on the WRX I test drove.

If I bought a car off the lot with test drive miles on it, I would change the oil immedately and again at 1000 miles.

At that point, it will be fine to switch to synthetic oil.
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Old 12-22-2002, 12:09 AM   #13
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Default Re: remember your breaking in more than the engine

Quote:
Originally posted by hotrod
I made my first oil change at 2000 miles, switching to mobil 1

I just made my second oil change at 15,600 miles!!
I had no detectable oil consumption.

Why so long on the second change ?
I believe oil changes should be made on a time basis. I change oils every 6 months, June and January. In january I switch to a winter weight oil just before the bitter cold season. I switch in June to a summer weight just before the hottest weather. Been doing this for many years, with very good success.

For what its worth
Larry
FYI In Europe (Im from the UK) typical oil service intervals are 10-15k, I think its BS from the oil companies over here to get you to change your oil every 3k. That said the oil is so cheap here (I use Mobile1) compaired to the UK that I change my oil every 5k. Its one of the cheapest ways to protect your engine.
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Old 12-28-2002, 09:07 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by Nomadgene

I am not saying that all salesmen/buyers do this, but on average, don't you think the 4,000 rpm break in limit was broken on many of the WRX's sold?

NOMAD

Not just during test drives. When cars are driven from truck to boat, then boat to truck, when they are shipped from country to country, this is done as quickly as possible. That means your car was likely revved well past 4000 RPM, the clutch has been slipped, and the brakes have been slammed on before the car even made it to the dealer.



And to add to all the posts about when to change your oil, use your commen sense. Too many people change their oil at a specific mile. CHANGE IT WHEN IT NEEDS IT! If you don't know how to check your oil, I think its in the manual.

Mine needed it at 350 miles, then again at 1100 miles. Damn glad I didn't wait till I reached the points specified in the manual...
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Old 01-16-2003, 11:14 PM   #15
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I know my first ride in the WRX at the dealer was what sold me!!
He ragged the living Crap out of that car, Then gave me a shot at it. It was fun. Then i bought mine and had a 300 mile trip home to make in it. Which is supposed to be bad? So I drove it like I plan to continue driving it. Fast. It is built right. Its a SUBARU.
Short of entering a race with it. There is no written in stone way of breaking one in.
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Old 01-17-2003, 01:26 PM   #16
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I picked up my '03 RS last weekend, I've got about 400 miles on it currently. I've got on it a few times in various gears, but not too much. I'm breaking it in nice and easy.

I haven't broken in the brakes yet......they feel a little mushy , so I think I need to do what hotrod said.

Question for you all - when I'm going about 70-75mph in 5th, the RPM's are at about 3 grand, maybe a little more. Does this seem a bit high or is it me?
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Old 01-17-2003, 05:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by Narcisse91
And to add to all the posts about when to change your oil, use your commen sense. Too many people change their oil at a specific mile. CHANGE IT WHEN IT NEEDS IT! If you don't know how to check your oil, I think its in the manual.

Mine needed it at 350 miles, then again at 1100 miles. Damn glad I didn't wait till I reached the points specified in the manual...
What are the signs to know when your oil is changed, in your opinion?
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Old 04-22-2003, 02:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by Narcisse91



Not just during test drives. When cars are driven from truck to boat, then boat to truck, when they are shipped from country to country, this is done as quickly as possible. That means your car was likely revved well past 4000 RPM, the clutch has been slipped, and the brakes have been slammed on before the car even made it to the dealer.



And to add to all the posts about when to change your oil, use your commen sense. Too many people change their oil at a specific mile. CHANGE IT WHEN IT NEEDS IT! If you don't know how to check your oil, I think its in the manual.

Mine needed it at 350 miles, then again at 1100 miles. Damn glad I didn't wait till I reached the points specified in the manual...
never mind from truck to boat... how 'bout straight off the assembly line!!!!

when I was in Stuttgart (I think that's where it was - sorry I know that shameful!) at the Porsche factory, the guys taking the car off the assembly line ripped down the back road to the parking lot where all the new cars were kept... REDLINE straight out of the factory baby!!

boy was I surprised!

later

daniel
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Old 04-24-2003, 04:13 AM   #19
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And then there's Motoman's controversial advice to run your new engine relatively hard right from the get-go - no "easy" break-in - and make your first oil change very early (<50 miles).

His main focus is racing bikes, but claims the same advice applies to any four-stroke engine. He makes a pretty good case:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

-tom
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Old 04-24-2003, 08:23 AM   #20
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Motoman is pretty much on target, especially with regards to motorcycle engines, snowmobiles, etc.

Honda motorcycle engines don't have a breakin period when the consumer buys them. Why? Because before they leave the factory they get a nice full throttle workout, all the way to redline, before they go out the door.

Point is, there are a million theories. I'd just follow your owners manual... it's as good as any other advice.

As for "knowing" when to change your oil, you can't. Looking at the oil doesn't tell you a whole lot. To really know what's going on, you need to get an oil analysis done. Since most of us don't care that much, we just change our oil every 3k or so.

Personally, here's what I did:

- I never took the car over 4k RPM's during the first 1000 miles. For the first 200 or so, I really babied it. Gentle acceleration, no downshifts. From 200 - 500, I drove like your average person (i.e. slow), still not putting much load on the engine. From 500 - 1000 I gradually increased the amount of throttle (load) that I was putting the engine under, and took it up to 4k RPM's gently more often.

I've got 1500 miles on it now. After 1000, it's pretty much free game. However, I haven't taken it past 5k RPM's. The oil will be changed at 2k with Mobil 1, and then I'll start taking it to 6k and beyond.
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Old 04-25-2003, 01:26 PM   #21
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Regarding the porsche story: All porsches are broken in before leaving the factory. And their recommended oil changes are really long. Even my freinds 330Ci is 10,000 to 15,000 KMS.

I took it easy with short bursts of acceleration. Then slowly started bursting up to higher levels until I reached redline. Took me a few thousand KMS.

People (mechanics and other subie owners) have commented on how smooth my engine runs and sounds, and the tranny is really nice. No grinding, easy shifts. But hey, I could have just gotten a lucky car!

jason
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Old 03-19-2009, 07:50 PM   #22
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ya i jus got a new motor due to the 07 sti bug. the dealer said not to take it over 3000 for the 1st 1000 miles. sounds very conservative. and i was wondering what are the characteristics of a new motor break in. ie. idle fluctuation engine vibration and noise.
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