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Old 08-10-2007, 02:02 AM   #1
grizz3000
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White

Default Getting clicking, all turns, even straight

A mystery here? New half axles and yet I still have 'clicking' every so often when I turn OR when I start-off from a stop.

Any guesses?
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Old 08-10-2007, 02:15 AM   #2
Numbchux
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'84 Brat
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elaborate on 'new'....

I've had TERRIBLE luck with remanufactured ones. had one fail (not clicking, just little chunks of metal everywhere) within 24 hours of purchase. Napa, autozone, checker, etc. all junk


AND, did you do the install yourself? did you make sure everything is good and snug? retorque that axle nut after driving around for a bit? check the condition of tie rod ends and ball joints while in there? how about wheel bearings?


AAAAND, describe the clicking. repeating noise that changes with speed? or just a single click?
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Old 08-22-2007, 04:14 PM   #3
TeamCF
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Check the CV boot clamps.
I had mine start with a 'clicking' on me last week.
turns out it was just a CV boot clamp that found its way off of the boot and was hitting the steering knuckle.
I headed over to the dealer and they carry tons of them so I had to just clean up and replace the lost grease and install a new clamp. (only drove it for about 6 miles in clear weather with the boot loose)

If it's not the clamps then you could have gotten a bunk axle.
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:13 PM   #4
bgd73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grizz3000 View Post
A mystery here? New half axles and yet I still have 'clicking' every so often when I turn OR when I start-off from a stop.

Any guesses?
if boots aren't ripped, wiggle stuff around. the outer should be tight, the inner flops around.
try retorque. if you have ever seen the axles apart, you'll see that there is a little spline within the outer cv joint. the inner one doesn't need the torque like the outer, the outer can literally strip itself out internally- I believe there is a chance of it on your problem due to it happening going straight. Even if it is stripped BTW, it can still grip with over 140 ft lbs torque, it makes its own splines at oh 300 ft lbs .
Be sure the axle nut turns freely enough so accurate reading of wrench is ok. I do not use torque wrench, I stand on a 4 foot pipe until it is felt right .
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Old 08-22-2007, 11:23 PM   #5
grizz3000
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Numbchux:
Yes, I did both half-axles myself. Since the knucklea were apart I did the ball joints, tierods, wheel bearings, and brakes.

I have since pulled the engine and completed a gasket kit project.
After I put in the new clutch, the engine will go back in. Then I can re-address this issue.

Standby for news.
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Old 08-24-2007, 02:10 AM   #6
ej22bratman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgd73 View Post
Be sure the axle nut turns freely enough so accurate reading of wrench is ok. I do not use torque wrench, I stand on a 4 foot pipe until it is felt right .

Please explain how you would have an accurate reading wrench, and then not use a torque wrench...
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Old 08-24-2007, 03:42 AM   #7
Bucky92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ej22bratman View Post
Please explain how you would have an accurate reading wrench, and then not use a torque wrench...
bdg is smoking something again...or maybe he sat down and did the math of his weight ratio plus 4 ft breaker bar= perfect..we all know his way is the only right way and every torque wrench ever made in the world is wrong.


As for clicky axles..you said it was just once in awhile? has it gotten worse? I would also go with the checking of the axle nut and rechecking the boots.

( I need to read up on all this since I have 5 of them that need replaced....both fronts on my Loyale and 3 on my XT6)
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Old 08-24-2007, 06:55 PM   #8
ej22bratman
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Just use your magic wand to tighten the castle nuts, and your crystal ball to check the boots.

If that method fails, grab your known calibrated torque wrench(being calibrated is key, they do loose accuracy over time rendering them useless or severely prone to damaging key parts[like bolts]). The castle nuts should be at least torqued to 150 ft/lbs. And boots are simple, if they are cracked and or flinging grease... You know what to do.

Is there any change in the noise if you are breaking?
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:44 PM   #9
grizz3000
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I got the engine back in today, along with all the other 'stuff'.
I tried cranking her over but apparently I have a timing issue.
I'll tackle the timing tomorrow (Sat), it's time for a cold beer.

The clicking issue will be re-addressed once it's on the road again.
I got many good views of the boots during engine removal/installation, they look great.
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Old 09-11-2007, 08:45 PM   #10
wagehan 1992 loyale
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dont do the timing acording to chiltons manual i did it on my loyale and it didnt work proporly
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Old 09-15-2007, 03:54 PM   #11
wagehan 1992 loyale
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i had the same problem on my car it was the capler draging you should check that too
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Old 04-08-2008, 09:58 PM   #12
benham84GL
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Default might help

I have the same problem on my 85 suby right now, I've replaced the tranny (with a 50K mile unit), CV joint and wheel bearings. Still clicks. Must be the backlash on the shaft (of the "new" 50K mile tranny. Its externally adjustable but have not built a spanner wrench for it yet.
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