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Old 04-11-2012, 03:23 PM   #1201
Seraphinwolf
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I never got around to setting it up. The SVX forums I think had sorted something out... I know a lot just went with the Hydra cause of the plug and play but the cost is too much to me on a car I'm not driving when I had my turbo EZ30R project sucking money up and more work on my autocross daily driver...
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Old 04-11-2012, 03:37 PM   #1202
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Actually could you help me out and maybe lay out a copy of how your wiring is? Since you completed your tandem ECU setup? I'd greatly appreciate it!
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Old 04-11-2012, 05:35 PM   #1203
2006eg33
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i could easily just explain it.

heres how i did it, mind you its the bare minimum, you could do more, and have a more stock setup if you wanted to, there were just too many differences in ecu's between the svx and the 06 2.5i

step 1: weed down the svx harness to just the 4 engine plugs, ignitor, maf, and both 02 sensors

step 2: do the basic merge.
- tap into the starter signal of the stock ecu, and run a wire to the starter signal on the svx ecu
- tap into the back up power of the stock ecu and run a wire to the back up power on the svx ecu
- i didnt splice for the fuel pump as the svx ecu wont run the 2.5i fuel pump controller. i also didnt splice for the rad fan, as the svx has 2 outputs and the 2.5i has 1, so since the 2.5 ecu didnt see an ECT sensor it turns the fans on all the time

step 3: run svx power relay
- take the switched power for the relay from the ignition signal to the stock ecu
- this relay will power the self shut off control, ignition signal, and control unit power supply

step 4: run fuel pump power relay
- find which pins on the fuel pump connecter turn the pump on (i used the service manual to find this)
- run a second relay like the ecu power relay, but to the fuel pump.

step 5: start car.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:15 PM   #1204
eg33GC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006eg33 View Post
unfortunately for me the svx ecu doesnt allow me to tune it, i used this set up, because i had the ecu from when i stripped the svx, and i just wanted it running.

down the line though i plan to run a megasquirt, but for now, it runs and its fun
subaru blessed you with a socketed ecu from the factory. learn how to use it.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:59 PM   #1205
2006eg33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg33GC View Post
subaru blessed you with a socketed ecu from the factory. learn how to use it.
care to elaborate?

not intersted in anything ecutune though. too many bad experiences on the svx forums
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:24 PM   #1206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006eg33 View Post
i could easily just explain it.

heres how i did it, mind you its the bare minimum, you could do more, and have a more stock setup if you wanted to, there were just too many differences in ecu's between the svx and the 06 2.5i

step 1: weed down the svx harness to just the 4 engine plugs, ignitor, maf, and both 02 sensors

step 2: do the basic merge.
- tap into the starter signal of the stock ecu, and run a wire to the starter signal on the svx ecu
- tap into the back up power of the stock ecu and run a wire to the back up power on the svx ecu
- i didnt splice for the fuel pump as the svx ecu wont run the 2.5i fuel pump controller. i also didnt splice for the rad fan, as the svx has 2 outputs and the 2.5i has 1, so since the 2.5 ecu didnt see an ECT sensor it turns the fans on all the time

step 3: run svx power relay
- take the switched power for the relay from the ignition signal to the stock ecu
- this relay will power the self shut off control, ignition signal, and control unit power supply

step 4: run fuel pump power relay
- find which pins on the fuel pump connecter turn the pump on (i used the service manual to find this)
- run a second relay like the ecu power relay, but to the fuel pump.

step 5: start car.


Im using the svx ecu Only and this is the best way I found

but using 2 ecu to run a standalone look like a very good choice


Can you tell me about the *bad experiences with the ecutune?
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:50 PM   #1207
Seraphinwolf
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The ECUtune stuff is touchy and doesn't quite work as well as you'd want for the cost.

And Jake is saying about the socketed ECU that he can burn a new ROM for the ECU so you can effectly tune it. Just not like a normal opensource or with an Accessport. You'd dump the logs from the ROM then have a new ROM burned to replace it with.

The tandem ECU is best choice for anyone wanting to properly control the motor and still pass a plug in emissions.
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Old 04-11-2012, 09:32 PM   #1208
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i'm intrigued with all this rom burning stuff, but megasquirt is so affordable i cant see a reason not to use it, except the time to get it all set up properly.

what are your thoughts on instead of using the svx cam and crank sensors in megasquirt, retrofitting a ford edis-6 module. hundreds of people have made the edis work, and information about setting up sensors is widely available
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:39 AM   #1209
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Just a quick question to for those who have h6 impreza swaps:

How is the handing/corning after the swap?
Better?....Worse?....Same?....Don't care cause you have an awesome 6-cylinder impreza?

Just curious.

.....although, If I had the chance (or money) to do a swap like that I'd really consider it. Still having decent power without the turbo related problems sounds good to me.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:31 PM   #1210
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i dont notice a difference, the h6 isnt a very heavy motor, removing the ac probably evens out the weight difference
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:39 PM   #1211
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the eg33 would make a decent difference I'd say due to weight and position.

If someone was doing an EZ30/R I would personally run a forester engine crossmember or just get the spacers it uses since it would drop it 1" so you could potentially lower your CoG and gain power.

Ben
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:27 PM   #1212
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^ all that does is raise the chassis an inch. It doesn't lower the drivetrain.
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Old 05-14-2012, 10:29 PM   #1213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ManualOverAuto View Post
Just a quick question to for those who have h6 impreza swaps:

How is the handing/corning after the swap?
Better?....Worse?....Same?....Don't care cause you have an awesome 6-cylinder impreza?

Just curious.

.....although, If I had the chance (or money) to do a swap like that I'd really consider it. Still having decent power without the turbo related problems sounds good to me.
you will NEED damper changing and spring rate changes for a GC, but the fat GD probably won't require such.

I could stay planted in a corner, but the momentum shifting was noticable.
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:27 PM   #1214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg33GC View Post
^ all that does is raise the chassis an inch. It doesn't lower the drivetrain.
No, the suspension controls chassis height, the spacer is used to help keep it at a certain drivetrain angle on a car with higher ride height, if you look at the tranny mount/xmember it will be different as well.

If you put a spacer in on your stock crossmember and kept the stock impreza suspension, the result is the motor is lower by the spacer amount, how would lowering the motor raise the car? Think about it for a second...

Ben
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:38 PM   #1215
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so when you put a body lift on a truck, the entire frame is now lower to the ground?

Why would subaru put a drivetrain lowering kit on their car they marketed as an offroad compact suv?
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Old 05-15-2012, 12:23 AM   #1216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eg33GC View Post
so when you put a body lift on a truck, the entire frame is now lower to the ground?

Why would subaru put a drivetrain lowering kit on their car they marketed as an offroad compact suv?
You aren't comparing the same thing at all.

Let's say stock ride height on an impreza is some number, 30". What determines this? The length of the strut and the length of the spring and the spring rate which will compress a certain amount based on the weight applied. Obviously there are other things but the strut mounts effectively in the middle of the wheel so the height it extends up and then is compressed by the weight of the car/drivetrain will be the ride height of the car.

So we have a car at 30", we leave that same suspension, for arguments sake the EZ30 is close enough in weight to be the same so we have the same weight of the car. With all stock components we have the same ride height and same engine position.

All we change is the crossmember, put the 1" spacer in. This moves the engine DOWN towards the ground but we have changed nothing else about the car. The same weight is resting on the suspension, the other components have enough range to adjust to the 1" movement of the drivetrain and all you have done is dropped the engine/tranny 1" and left the car the same.

In regards to subaru's marketing I can't comment as I'm not a subaru engineer to know why but just because it has a 1" spacer it may have 3" of greater travel or suspension height so the net gain is 2" of ground clearance. It's not like the forester rides on identical impreza suspension, have you ever seen foresters with STi struts/springs? They are significantly lower(same height as a STi) and if you looked at their engine height it is probably 1" lower to the ground.

Ben
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Old 05-15-2012, 04:12 AM   #1217
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The spacer just moves the drivetrain down if there are no spacers on the struts or longer struts(as outback and forester have).

I used factory 33mm spacers front and rear on the V12 Legacy to allow bonnet and diff clearance and still has the exact same ride height. It just has messed up geometry now due to the angle of control arms and tierods. The price you pay for a TT V12 and huge diff.
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Old 05-15-2012, 07:17 AM   #1218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jzk25
The spacer just moves the drivetrain down if there are no spacers on the struts or longer struts(as outback and forester have).

I used factory 33mm spacers front and rear on the V12 Legacy to allow bonnet and diff clearance and still has the exact same ride height. It just has messed up geometry now due to the angle of control arms and tierods. The price you pay for a TT V12 and huge diff.
How much power does that thing put down anyway?

I saw the thread but I never saw the specs and stuff.
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Old 05-15-2012, 05:35 PM   #1219
Seraphinwolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PHATsuby View Post
the eg33 would make a decent difference I'd say due to weight and position.

If someone was doing an EZ30/R I would personally run a forester engine crossmember or just get the spacers it uses since it would drop it 1" so you could potentially lower your CoG and gain power.

Ben
On problem with this option Ben... Suspension geometry will be off even more when lowered which will be optimal choice. My suggestion would be custom engine mounts that will lower the motor without putting more strain on steering rack and suspension parts from being strained from the change.
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:17 PM   #1220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seraphinwolf View Post
On problem with this option Ben... Suspension geometry will be off even more when lowered which will be optimal choice. My suggestion would be custom engine mounts that will lower the motor without putting more strain on steering rack and suspension parts from being strained from the change.
True, one solution for the rack could be to use a forester coupler as well(although maybe the steering column is actually a different length). Still would need to deal with suspension geometry though.

Ben
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:55 PM   #1221
Seraphinwolf
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Column does appear to be shorter. I have what I THINK is a second gen Fozzy column that came with my STi dash. I think they sent the wrong one cause the wheel on it was an STi wheel. No bigy cause I just got an STi column, ingnition with key, and ECU which is def longer. I need to cut and weld my knuckle shorter by an inch cause it's a first gen chassis. Rack ratio is the other issue with the Fozzy xmember idea.
Anywho still looking to see if anyone is interested in rails if I get a batch made for EZ's.
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:47 PM   #1222
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If anyone has any of the following, I would be interested:

EZ30R
ECU
Wiring harness

Thanks guys!

EDIT: Also willing to try an EG or even a destroked EZ36

Last edited by Fuj1wara; 06-03-2012 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 06-07-2012, 09:30 PM   #1223
Seraphinwolf
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Avoid EZ36... Just save yourself and do the EG33.
BTW you know the EZ30R even with the harness and ECU really doesn't work right? There's only been one to work period and it was done with UK 3.0R Spec B harness, ECU, and Imobilizer parts. The US harness is a no go. Then he still had to **** around with the Imobilizer chips and luckily found a dealership willing to try programming it.
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Old 06-08-2012, 01:56 AM   #1224
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Appreciate the help man, but with the direction I'm going... It might just be a job for a stand alone ECU. There are some other variables to my build that would require it anyway. In regards to the ECUs, romraider says they support some very specific ECUs. I'd like to get my hands on one just to play with it because I know someone who does disassembly of Roms and such. As for the 3.6... I'd still like to tear one apart or atleast look at one torn down. I'm not one to cast something aside until I've fully understood the why. It'd be nice if I could source this stuff at a price where I can really get a full variety, but cost is killing me. I'm not in a huge rush for it, but I would like to be able to lay everything out plan wise.
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:48 AM   #1225
Seraphinwolf
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Standalone is the way to go. If you need to pass plug in do a tandem ECU like I am. Providing power to an 05' STi ECU and open source tuning it to turn everything off and force readiness.
The 3.6 if you plan for more than NA will have problems. The recessed crank causes issues and some shops that blew through like 5 of them finally came to the conclusion that it would require dropping like $3k on a crank to get the motor to even start accepting boost. Believe me I wish I could steal the 3.6 heads and slap on my 3.0R for the DAVCS.
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