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Old 01-22-2008, 10:54 PM   #26
shayrgob
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Originally Posted by schroder View Post
Ok, I am doing my clutch install and ran into a problem...I didn't look at which side of the clutch faced towards the tranny...can someone help me out??? Its my first time doing the clutch install on the Subaru, and its completely different than my old mitsubishi...Thanks!
the side where the springs stick out past the surface is the tranny side. The flatter side is towards the flywheel.
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:41 PM   #27
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Great...Thats the way I thought,I just wanted to make sure before I royally screwed it up. Thanks again!
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Old 01-27-2008, 08:31 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by soldmyboxster View Post
Testing the completed install: Now (and not before now) you can press on the clutch. Do it very slowly to ensure the slave cylinder pushrod engages the proper notch on the fork. Have a helper guide it if need be (watch your fingers). Since the piston was probably retracted a bit, you'll need to pump the clutch several times before it will work normally. Watch the lever action of the fork. Does it pivot smoothly and quietly? Does the clutch actually engage/disengage? Why did Britney Spears shave her head? Does it make any abnormal noise? Does it "feel" normal from inside the car?
Am I the only one who caught that insert? Damn that's funny!!
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Old 01-29-2008, 12:56 AM   #29
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funny ****.thanks for the write up im oin mine in like 2 weeks
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:33 PM   #30
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i wonder how close to a 5mt on a GC impreza is.. i'll get to that in about a week or so, ill take some pics of whats different... ill be doing it on jack stands in my driveway- so that'll be one difference..

i do have a pilot bearing question- on the GC and new impreza's alike the pilot bearing just slides into the flywheel?
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Old 01-30-2008, 08:39 PM   #31
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If it is a us GM6 or GC6 it will be different. There is no clutch for release and once you unbolt the mission it will slide right out.
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Old 01-30-2008, 09:06 PM   #32
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If it is a us GM6 or GC6 it will be different. There is no clutch for release and once you unbolt the mission it will slide right out.
im not sure the diff between GM6 or GC6? how do i I.D it?? also im not sure if the junkyard knew what year it came out of, what if its build date is earlier than the kit i buy for it? (I.E i see build before 9/94 or after on some parts sites..) whats the diff?

sorry if this is a threadjack
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Old 02-17-2008, 11:54 PM   #33
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Can anyone comment on any differences between this procedure and the procedure for an 04 STi? Is there anything significan't different to watch out for?

Also, I have heard that it is easier to just move the engine forward after removing the radiator. Has anyone tried this method? Thanks!
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Old 02-22-2008, 01:16 AM   #34
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just for the record the m6*1.25 bolt that goes into the hex plug is actually a m6*1.00 i went to 4 auto parts stores looking for the m6*1.25 no one had it, finally went to a bolt supply store only to find out the m6*1.25 bolt doesn't exist. the m6*1.00 worked perfect
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Old 02-22-2008, 06:30 PM   #35
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Ok so i am an idiot and was swapping my turbo when i dropped a bolt into the the open hole of the transmission. right now the car's jacked up and im slowly getting to the point where im ready to drop the tranny. however, i have run into a little problem. the hex plug that allows you the thread the bolt into and pull the cylinder out will not budge. any suggestions? (do you just pull it out or do you use a bolt and wrench to break the seal) Any input would be cool because im loosing my head over this one[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/MAXR%7E1.LAN/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 02-22-2008, 07:31 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max427 View Post
im not sure the diff between GM6 or GC6? how do i I.D it?? also im not sure if the junkyard knew what year it came out of, what if its build date is earlier than the kit i buy for it? (I.E i see build before 9/94 or after on some parts sites..) whats the diff?

sorry if this is a threadjack
GC chassis is a 4 door car. The GM chassis is a 2 door.
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Old 02-22-2008, 07:34 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by globalrex View Post
Ok so i am an idiot and was swapping my turbo when i dropped a bolt into the the open hole of the transmission. right now the car's jacked up and im slowly getting to the point where im ready to drop the tranny. however, i have run into a little problem. the hex plug that allows you the thread the bolt into and pull the cylinder out will not budge. any suggestions? (do you just pull it out or do you use a bolt and wrench to break the seal) Any input would be cool because im loosing my head over this one
Are you sure you are trying to remove it the right way? Spray it down with WD-40 or liquid wrench and give it a try then. Also try and hit it with a ball peen hammer. You have to upload pictures off of your computer to post them...
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Old 02-22-2008, 09:43 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by globalrex View Post
Ok so i am an idiot and was swapping my turbo when i dropped a bolt into the the open hole of the transmission. right now the car's jacked up and im slowly getting to the point where im ready to drop the tranny. however, i have run into a little problem. the hex plug that allows you the thread the bolt into and pull the cylinder out will not budge. any suggestions? (do you just pull it out or do you use a bolt and wrench to break the seal) Any input would be cool because im loosing my head over this one[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/MAXR%7E1.LAN/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]
first off u MUST find the bolt that fell into your tranny, sounds like bad news. second put the 10 mm allen wrench in the plug and put a long box end wrench on the allen wrench and use it like a breaker bar. don't forget to curse at it in japanese, it only understands how a japanese man would speak to it. no speeky english yo i should have mine finished tomorrow
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Old 02-22-2008, 10:31 PM   #39
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haha, alright ill try jdm because usdm does not seem to be doing the trick. thanks for the advice guys. ill update my situation whenever i figure this out. thanks again
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Old 02-24-2008, 10:33 AM   #40
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Nice "how-to"!!

I have a few questions:

1) Removing/installing the starter- is it a simple "unbolt" process, or is there something else we should know?

2) Removing/installing the clutch slave cylinder- see question 1 above

3) When you jacked up the engine a bit to remove the tranny, did you have to unbolt any additional engine mounts are anything?

4) Does the tranny just "pry off" the engine, or is there a technique to lowering/raising or "wiggling" the tranny away from the engine?

5) Do you need to remove the transmission crossmember before putting the transmission jack in place, or does the jack directly contact the crossmember (maybe the question is, does the crossmember stay connected to the tranny during the entire procedure, or does it unbolt from the tranny)?

6) How difficult is this to do without a lift (i.e., with the car supported on jack stands)? If it can be done, does this jack look okay for the job:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178

7) I don't like the idea of unbolting the ball-joint/transverse link, since I've had those bolts sheer off sometimes because they tend to become siezed (even penetrating lube won't help in many cases). If I choose to unbolt the struts from the spindle instead, is it necessary to also remove the brakes/rotors, or can the spindle "swing out" of the way with this stuff attached? I've changed the axles on my '02 WRX before, but of course that involves detaching all the brake stuff to get the lateral splines into the hub/spindle.

Sorry for all the questions, but as someone who does a lot of my own car repairs, I feel they are all worth asking before jumping into a big project like this.

Last edited by DSM-2-WRX; 02-24-2008 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 02-24-2008, 11:32 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSM-2-WRX View Post
Nice "how-to"!!

I have a few questions:

1) Removing/installing the starter- is it a simple "unbolt" process, or is there something else we should know?

2) Removing/installing the clutch slave cylinder- see question 1 above

3) When you jacked up the engine a bit to remove the tranny, did you have to unbolt any additional engine mounts are anything?

4) Does the tranny just "pry off" the engine, or is there a technique to lowering/raising or "wiggling" the tranny away from the engine?

5) Do you need to remove the transmission crossmember before putting the transmission jack in place, or does the jack directly contact the crossmember (maybe the question is, does the crossmember stay connected to the tranny during the entire procedure, or does it unbolt from the tranny)?

6) How difficult is this to do without a lift (i.e., with the car supported on jack stands)? If it can be done, does this jack look okay for the job:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178

7) I don't like the idea of unbolting the ball-joint/transverse link, since I've had those bolts sheer off sometimes because they tend to become siezed (even penetrating lube won't help in many cases). If I choose to unbolt the struts from the spindle instead, is it necessary to also remove the brakes/rotors, or can the spindle "swing out" of the way with this stuff attached? I've changed the axles on my '02 WRX before, but of course that involves detaching all the brake stuff to get the lateral splines into the hub/spindle.

Sorry for all the questions, but as someone who does a lot of my own car repairs, I feel they are all worth asking before jumping into a big project like this.
answers to your questions:
1) yes two bolts and a wire or two then it comes straight off.

2) take the two bolts that attach the cylinder to the tranny, then just move it somewhere out of the way. don't un bolt the rubber line on the top of it.

3) just wiggle the trany side to side while someone else pushes it towards the rear. and once u get a little seperation stick a pry bar between the engine and tranny and pry "softly" as someone wiggles it under the car. once u have decent seperation get back under the car and slowly pull and wiggle till she's free (it's a pain in the ass to seperate)

4) see #3

5) I talked to subbie and thy said unbol it to help with the range of motion while your wiggling the trany. the said hypothetically it could be left on, but suggested removal.

6) it's not too bad without a lift, but would be much easier (and cleaner) with a lift. that jack loos fine i used a floor jack, the tranny's pretty light maybe 100 lbs or so.

7) I'd just remove the ball joint from the tranverse it saves mucho time and since this takes awhile i like to save time.

all in all everything u do is pretty simple just tedious, this is the SPT pdf file of the swap it helps out. just click on clutchdisc and save.
http://www.subaru.com/microsites/spt...mation.sptmain
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Old 02-24-2008, 11:49 AM   #42
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Awesome, thanks for the thorough reply!!

Does the flywheel have to be resurfaced/machined with a new clutch, if the previous clutch wasn't abuse or slipped too much? My clutch is starting to slip (about 100k miles on the stocker), but only when the boost hits hard, and then it only slips for a second, so I imagine there has been little to no damage to the flywheel in my situation, correct? I plan to use a ACT with street disc if it matters.

I know that when I replaced the clutch in my AWD DSM, Centerforce required in the instructions that the flywheel be machined to a certain specification.
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:36 PM   #43
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if u buy a new flywheel then no, if old flywheel always.
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:36 PM   #44
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if u buy a new flywheel then no, if old flywheel always.
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Old 02-24-2008, 06:02 PM   #45
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That's what I figured... Does ACT give the specs for machining the flywheel?

Oh, forgot to ask, before doing the clutch removal, should the transmission be in neutral or in gear, or does it even matter?
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Old 02-24-2008, 10:53 PM   #46
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don't know contact jsc speed they might know. I left mine in neutral.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:37 AM   #47
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Default Great Writeup

that was really great to read through. unfortunately, it's way beyond me

my 04 wrx has got clutch problems. i launched hard a few too many times last month in the freezing cold and did some damage. the car is stock except for cobb AP running the 93oct stage1 map. car has 67K on it. now i get slippage when boost comes on.. it's lasted more than a couple of weeks, so i imagine it's not just glazed.

perhaps more frightening is the sound i noticed lately that i don't recall hearing before (although i rarely drive without the radio so i'm not sure how long this noise has been there). when idling in neutral, when the clutch is engaged there is a funny sound - almost like sounds like a diesel or a power-steering pump. when i put the clutch pedal in, sound goes away. a few friends were saying it might be a dislodged/broken spring rubbing or something.

anyone have comments on what that sound is? i don't suppose there's any chance it's normal? i imagine i'm gonna need to head to the dealer for a new clutch. anyone know how much they whack you for a job like that? i'm almost afraid to know. maybe i can just trade in the car as-is towards a nice new STI

thanks a lot.
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Old 02-26-2008, 12:24 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by ezod52 View Post
that was really great to read through. unfortunately, it's way beyond me

my 04 wrx has got clutch problems. i launched hard a few too many times last month in the freezing cold and did some damage. the car is stock except for cobb AP running the 93oct stage1 map. car has 67K on it. now i get slippage when boost comes on.. it's lasted more than a couple of weeks, so i imagine it's not just glazed.

perhaps more frightening is the sound i noticed lately that i don't recall hearing before (although i rarely drive without the radio so i'm not sure how long this noise has been there). when idling in neutral, when the clutch is engaged there is a funny sound - almost like sounds like a diesel or a power-steering pump. when i put the clutch pedal in, sound goes away. a few friends were saying it might be a dislodged/broken spring rubbing or something.

anyone have comments on what that sound is? i don't suppose there's any chance it's normal? i imagine i'm gonna need to head to the dealer for a new clutch. anyone know how much they whack you for a job like that? i'm almost afraid to know. maybe i can just trade in the car as-is towards a nice new STI

thanks a lot.
Bad throwout bearing in the clutch assembly ?
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Old 02-29-2008, 05:15 PM   #49
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Bad throwout bearing in the clutch assembly ?
thanks for the feedback. i was looking through my maintenance guide but couldn't find 'throwout bearing' anywhere. is that another term for 'release bearing'? I found the quote below at http://www.lukclutch.com/support/diagnostics.phtml

"Waiting in traffic with the vehicle in gear and the clutch disengaged loads the release bearing excessively. Over time, this shortens release bearing life and can eventually cause noise. "

I spend a ton of time in traffic, unfortunately. i try not to keep it in gear with the clutch disengaged - i'm in neutral as much as possible. but constant stop-and-go traffic does mean a lot of working the clutch. if this release bearing is the problem are there bad consequences for letting it go too long?

i guess the other problem of the clutch slipping means i'm due for a replacement anyway.

thanks
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Old 02-29-2008, 05:24 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by ezod52 View Post
thanks for the feedback. i was looking through my maintenance guide but couldn't find 'throwout bearing' anywhere. is that another term for 'release bearing'? I found the quote below at http://www.lukclutch.com/support/diagnostics.phtml

"Waiting in traffic with the vehicle in gear and the clutch disengaged loads the release bearing excessively. Over time, this shortens release bearing life and can eventually cause noise. "

Wow... that lukclutch site has a ton of useful info:
http://www.lukclutch.com/support/dia...cs_noise.phtml

Best match i can find to my noise is:

Growling or grinding when the clutch is engaged. => Transmission input shaft bearing

Is that a full-on transmission problem (bad) or just something between the clutch and transmission that can be swapped(better)?
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