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Old 03-08-2008, 08:52 AM   #51
akira02rex
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Just finished my clutch on my 2002 WRX. What a PITA!
The tranny seperated fairly easy I guess, but getting it back on was a little more difficult.
The trick is getting it aligned nearly perfect with the engine. I used a jack in the rear of the tranny and one in the front so I could control the angle of approach.

This job took me 5 days to complete. I worked on it 6hrs one day, and the rest about 3hrs at a time.

Good luck!

PS:
I left my entire exhaust on the car. I removed the pass. axle for clearance and left the driver's side alone.
I also took my driveshaft completely off the car. This allowed my to slide the tranny back about 5-6in.
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Old 03-10-2008, 09:36 AM   #52
DSM-2-WRX
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I just changed my clutch out on my '02 WRX over the weekend for the first time. In total it took about 12 hours, 7 of which I had help of one other person, and for 3 hours I had the help of one additional person to drop the transmission and then re-install it (so I did the last 5 hours of the re-install on my own). I'm a pretty experienced "weekend mechanic" FWIW. Some notes:

Equipment:
1) Make sure you have an impact gun and compressor! I couldn't imagine not having on to get those bolts off the driveshaft cover. Part of the problem with my car is the weather and salty roads it's exposed to, in addition to being 7 years old.

2) When removing/re-installing the transmission, it helps to have 2 jacks for the transmission (I used a small, cheap tranny jack from Harbor Freight for the front of the tranny, and a motorcycle jack for the rear), and one jack to lift up the front of the engine with a 2x4 under the cross-over (exhaust header) pipe.

Tips:
1) When you remove the driveshaft, transmission fluid will leak out a little, and will leak out a lot when you start to lower the transmission. You can stop this leaking by placing the lid of an aerosol can into the yoke of the transmission. Just have a pan ready to catch the fluid when you remove the lid to re-install the driveshaft, and have a quart or so of tranny fluid to replace what's lost. The other option here is to just drain the fluid before starting the job, but I chose not to, since I just put new stuff in last month.

2) Spray the hell out of all the bolts on the exhaust, driveshaft and cover, etc. with penetrating lube as soon as you jack up the car, and then go do something else in the engine bay while it soaks in.

3) Keep your bolts/nuts/washers organized, as there is a lot of them to remove.

4) For the exhaust, buy some new spring bolts and nuts in advance (you can re-use the springs), as well as a new donut gasket, and bolts/nuts for the downpipe to cat pipe connection. I sheered off both spring bolts and one of the other exhaust bolts during the removal. I had to use a grinder with a cutting wheel to cut the studs off the cat pipe, and then drill the studs out so I could re-mount it. These were the only bolts I damaged during the whole job.

5) Jack the car up pretty high, especially in the front, and make sure you use a creaper.

6) If it is not too expensive, try to buy the Subaru Special Tool that helps align the engine before you remove the transmission. We didn't have one, but I'm sure it would have made things much easier, and we wouldn't have had to jack up the front of the engine. I imagine that it also helps hold the engine stiff, since the engine without it rocks around a lot when you try to wiggle the transmission loose. We spent 2 whole hours just trying to separate the engine/transmission, with about an hour of that carefully chisseling at the top just to get a crack started so we could pry it apart. Everything went back together smoothly though, since we had the 3 jacks to line everything up (having the help of 2 other people is key here).

7) Don't count on anyone being open on Saturday to machine your flywheel. The 3 shops around here capable of doing it are not open on Saturday, so I bought a ACT Streetlite Flywheel at the last minute. Another option is to buy a stock used one and get it machined in advance during the week when the shops are open.

8) For removing the axles, it is much easier and safer IMO to just pull the top camber bolt out of one of the struts, and loosen up the bottom nut/bolt, and let the spindle swing down, and then slide out the axle, than to disconnect the ball joints. Once you get one side out like this, the other side will just wiggle out when you loosen up the transmission crossmembers (i.e., no need to touch the spindle/strut bolts on the other side). I used my digital camera to take a photo of the marks on the camber bolt before removing it, so that I would have a reference when re-installing it.

8) Make sure you completely clean the oil off the flywheel and the surface that mates with the clutch disc on the pressure plate. I used brake cleaner and clean rags and paper towels. After cleaning it, don't touch the surfaces with your dirty hands!

Other than what's already been said here, that's about all I have to add. Good luck to all of you!

Mark

Last edited by DSM-2-WRX; 03-10-2008 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 03-12-2008, 02:23 AM   #53
shayrgob
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in the process of doing this right now. Make sure to have a t70 torx socket for the tranny drain plug if u plan on draining the oil
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Old 03-19-2008, 01:25 AM   #54
choco66
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i just finished with mine, everything is back to together, engine started and no oil leaks...... here is my issue i can't get it to shift into gear, going to re-check throw out bearing.... i need help anybody
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Old 03-19-2008, 03:54 AM   #55
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throw out bearing looks good, i can see clutch engage, will check shifting link tomorrow, time for some sleep
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Old 03-19-2008, 04:06 AM   #56
Farnk
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Love the cliffs.
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:24 AM   #57
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Great writeup, thanks, i just finished my 02 wrx, took 3 days bout 7 hours a day, in my driveway. what a difference, it drives like a virgin again.

A LITTLE TIP: if your doin this in with limited space and limited tools remove the front axles and driveshaft, take them OFF! it will make your life soooooo much easier. other then that, this is a bad ass writeup, thanks again.
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Old 03-25-2008, 12:12 PM   #58
rkramer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shayrgob View Post
in the process of doing this right now. Make sure to have a t70 torx socket for the tranny drain plug if u plan on draining the oil
not all wrx's use a t70.
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Old 03-25-2008, 12:13 PM   #59
mtheodoseau
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I have my 02 wrx tranny and engine separated and a new stock clutch and resurfaced flywheel installed with new pilot bearing. Question: Is it better to insert throwout bearing into pressure plate as per the tutorial or install yoke and throwout bearing per subarau instructions and try to snap it in while joining the tranny. Seems like the yoke would interfere with things while trying to line up the tranny for install using the suabrau method. I did have a really togh time separating the tranny. Also why is it necessary to have the engine stabilzed. I have a jack under oil pan but cannot see reaon for this. Thanks
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Old 03-25-2008, 01:36 PM   #60
DSM-2-WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtheodoseau View Post
I have my 02 wrx tranny and engine separated and a new stock clutch and resurfaced flywheel installed with new pilot bearing. Question: Is it better to insert throwout bearing into pressure plate as per the tutorial or install yoke and throwout bearing per subarau instructions and try to snap it in while joining the tranny. Seems like the yoke would interfere with things while trying to line up the tranny for install using the suabrau method. I did have a really togh time separating the tranny. Also why is it necessary to have the engine stabilzed. I have a jack under oil pan but cannot see reaon for this. Thanks
Well, I wanted to do it the way the Subaru instructions read (ie, slip the bearing on the transmission shaft, slide the fork into the bearing, and then engage the bearing to the pressure plate once the transmission is mated up with the engine), but my friend slipped the bearing onto the pressure plate while I was doing something else (since he read it off the print out of these directions from this thread). As we pushed the transmission toward the engine, we just slid the clutch fork onto the bearing when we still had just enough room to fit it in there. That worked fine, and in hindsite, was probably the better way to do it since the top of the fork didn't get in the way of the firewall when we started to slide the transmission forward for the re-install.

Jacking up the front of the engine makes it MUCH easier to line things up when re-installing the transmission, and may work better if used on the cross-over pipe (header exhaust pipe) vs the oil pan, since it will offer better leverage to tip the engine in the desired direction. I don't think this is necessary if using the special tool I mentioned in my notes.
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Old 03-25-2008, 03:29 PM   #61
mtheodoseau
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Thanks for your reply. One final question on jacking the front of the engine.. Does that screw up anything if I tilt back by jacking on the cross pipe like the engine mounts? How much can you tilt or tip the engine back 1-2"???. So thats the reason for the jack in the front !!!
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Old 03-25-2008, 04:04 PM   #62
DSM-2-WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtheodoseau View Post
Thanks for your reply. One final question on jacking the front of the engine.. Does that screw up anything if I tilt back by jacking on the cross pipe like the engine mounts? How much can you tilt or tip the engine back 1-2"???. So thats the reason for the jack in the front !!!
I don't think there will be any ill effects on anything. We probably jacked the engine up several inches (maybe ~4-5"?). We just kept jacking it up as we saw that it was making the transmission come together easier. Make sure you put a piece of 2x4 btwn the jack and the pipe.
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Old 03-25-2008, 07:44 PM   #63
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Thanks DSM. If I had known that, it would have made taking it apart much easier. I used some spackling chisels to start the engine/tranny apart then a flat cold chisel covered with a rag, then made some wooden wedges 12" x 1 " from some pices of 2 x 4's . then moved to the prybars plus my 6'-7'' son under the car pulling. One thing to watch, the shift linkage got stuck on the back of the tranny when we moved it back and we had a tough time getting that apart. I took off whole muffler system in one piece also.
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Old 03-25-2008, 10:42 PM   #64
choco66
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once you get it back together, don't forget to make the clutch pedastal adjustment, it helped me a lot once i did that....
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Old 03-26-2008, 12:00 PM   #65
MMWRX
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I just pushed on the intake manifold standing infront of the car to tilt the engine while my buddy slid the tranny into place, as far as the clutch fork goes i popped the throwout bearing onto the pressure plate before i even bolted it onto the fly wheel, there is more then enough space in there to slide the fork into the bearing when the trans is going on.
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Old 03-26-2008, 12:28 PM   #66
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how do you make a clutch pedal adjustment? tks for advise
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Old 03-26-2008, 12:44 PM   #67
choco66
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the adjustment is made at the rod going into the master cylinder, its going thru the firewall, next to the gas pedal, if you lay on your back and slide your self near the pedals you can see it, push the clutch in with your hand and watch for moving rod near gas pedal, loosen lock nut and turn rod into master cylinder/into firewall, the more you go in the stiffer your pedal will get, pull it out of firewall and it will get softer almost like stock, i did this when i couldn't get my car to shift into a gear, i ran it all the way into master cylinder untill i was able to shift then i backed it out untill i was happy with the way it felt.
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Old 03-26-2008, 12:46 PM   #68
choco66
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oh yeah don't forget to mark the rod so if you have to you can start from original spot again
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Old 03-26-2008, 01:51 PM   #69
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ok choco got it thanks. I should have it together tonite/tomorrow and will give update.
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:29 PM   #70
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Just so you know the m6 bolt needed for the clutch fork pin(?) is a 1.0 thread, not a 1.25. Might want to change that in the OP.
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Old 03-28-2008, 10:57 PM   #71
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I can't get the ball joint on my 06 to come out for the life of me. It will drop down maybe .1", and wont' go any further. I remove the bolt from the endlink and the transverse bolt from the knuckle. Any hints?
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Old 03-28-2008, 11:20 PM   #72
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Make sure you pry that knucle open some where the transverse bolt came out, should have to just a little to get that balljoint to fall out.
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Old 03-28-2008, 11:21 PM   #73
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Tried that and it opened a bit, but still won't come out.
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Old 03-30-2008, 12:42 AM   #74
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^^ Let them soak overnight and they popped out on their own for the most part.

I have the tranny back on, but there doesn't seem to be any pressure on the release fork. I torqued the pressure plate down to the proper spec (11.8 ft-lb), installed the throwout bearing on the fork as shown in the service manual. Any ideas?
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Old 03-30-2008, 04:46 PM   #75
007WRX
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Do I need to drain the tranny before? I havent seen it mentioned.
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