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Old 08-16-2007, 02:57 PM   #1
SubaruCO
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Question Chassis Builders - Paint Questions

So with most of the chassis and metal fab done on my race car, it's time to start thinking of what to do about paint.

I'm interested in the products used, preparation required, and overall durability of the various options out there. (i.e. por-15, rustoleum etc.)

My specific concerns revolve around the preparation of the metal. While I have no surface rust, my chassis and cage still will have some dirt, possibly some residue left in hard to reach areas after a thorough wire-brushing and wipe down with thinner.

So what has worked best for the folks here? What were any lessons learned in application of said product? School me!

Thanks so much for every one's help.
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Old 08-16-2007, 02:59 PM   #2
pjhe
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i'd be concerned with weight
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Old 08-16-2007, 03:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pjhe View Post
i'd be concerned with weight
Sorry, I'm a little confused. Weight? Of the paint?

I'm sure it'll add a few pounds, but as this car will be driven on the road, where there is such stuff as...ummm...water, I'm hoping to do a decent job of corrosion proofing and aesthetic appeal.
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:08 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Putzier from Specialstage.com forums
Lets see Ken blocks car is painted with Sherman Willams, Basecoat clear, Travais car is paint with Spies-Hecker,basecoat clear [=$$$$$$$ 195.00 a qt] Paul and Antione's cars are Paint with PPG Single stage DCC. I have painted these car all in the last6 months . But Kens ,Pauls and Antione's in the last month. If you are looking for a paint that will take a beating go with the Nason Urthene single-stage this is the white that is on the bottom of all the VSC car that I do and inside of the car. I have painted boat bottoms and out drives with this and it stay. It is as good as Imiron Paint that they use on Aircraft and Big truck. and is 8:4:1 mix ratio and about 100.00 gallon paint and anothe 40 or 50 for reducer and hardener. It takes about a 1.5 gallons of paint to do the inside and bottom side and engine bath of a subaru. Chris Putzier Junction Motosports and Collision #963
This quote came from this thread, lots of other good infor there as well.
http://www.specialstage.com/forums/.php?t=28027&page=2
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:37 PM   #5
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Excellent, thank you for the info.
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:03 PM   #6
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Keep in mind that 90% of adhesion is in the preparation. It doesn't matter if you buy $10000/gal. superpaint, it won't stick if you don't prep it right. As far as prep goes just make sure that everything is properly sanded then focus on getting it as clean as possible. I would go about this by rolling it outside and power washing or just generally cleaning it as good as possible. Then get some prep-solve and wipe everything down with a lint free cloth. Right before you spray it go over everything with a tack rag. If there is grease on it, it won't stick so it's going to flake off.

With that being said, lets talk materials. I'm sure you've done some welding/cutting/grinding so most likely you are part bare metal, parts sanded metal, etc.

The first thing you need is a good base to work with. Primer. I would use an epoxy primer because it sticks like crazy to both bare metal and sanded paint. Even if you chip the basecoat a strong primer will keep it from rusting.

There are too many options to list if you are going with a singlestage paint. Spies, PPG, Dupont, Sherwin Williams all have multiple lines of single stage paint. I don't think I'd waste my money on a really expensive single stage for a rally car but I won't buy the cheapest available either. The majority of the added cost in a higher grade paint is the amount of pigment in the paint. Cheaper paints use a lot of binder, read filler, where expensive paint uses a lot of pigment so that you don't have to use as much paint to get coverage as well as being fade resistant.

This might be out in left field but has anyone thought to use enamel on a rally car? Most tractor restoration places use enamel because you can make it shine and it dries really hard. I also used to sell it to places that refurb railroad cars and another place that refurbed cranes.
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Old 08-23-2007, 07:55 PM   #7
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Thank you for the info!

I agree that proper prep is important. However I'll also say it's the most time consuming task as well. I am planning on brushing a standard epoxy primer once i get the thing cleaned well enough.

I am always interested in what the pro's and experienced folks are using in their projects. You mentioned enamel? Can this get brushed on directly over cured epoxy primer? Can I get away with one coat?
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:55 AM   #8
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Russell's (the hose people) make a chassis epoxy that I've had good luck with - comes in spray bombs, so it's not the most cost-effective. I've mainly used it for painting easy to get at pieces like brackets, etc.
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Old 08-24-2007, 07:21 PM   #9
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Hey Marshall,

How about some pics of your progress?

-Nick
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