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Old 08-27-2007, 07:18 AM   #51
bloopsta26
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btw where do u get c16 at?
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:03 AM   #52
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1. Axis' website isn't really up to date. I think he only offers one porting package for the heads and then stock size and 1mm larger valves. I would also not do his stage 5 block and definately not his stage 6 block. Keeping things simple stupid usually helps to keep things a little more reliable. Go with his stage 3 motor, save yourself some money and be done.

2. Good luck getting any EJ257 to rev to 9500RPM....won't happen. I have a relatively aggressive cam package from Axis and I will most likely make peak horsepower about 7500-7800RPM with a 35R. No point spinning it higher. And the same goes for you. Please just use the 35R. I've already pointed out why the 40R is not the way to go yet.

3. If you go with a Hydra, no. If you go with a UTEC/stock ECU combo, I would install a TurboXS 4.5bar MAP sensor to run speed density on the UTEC. Then get yourself a regular pull through MAF housing....something that will allow you to get a decent idle unlike the Perrin BigMAF. You aren't going to need a BigMAF as you'll be in speed density when in boost. But tuning a big cam car is not fun through a MAF, just a warning.

4. Don't waste your time or money.

5. If you are just doing roll on's on the highway, all this stuff will be fine. Start cutting 1.6 60foots at the track and it's a matter of time before you break a rear half shaft. I really don't see you breaking the driveshaft.

6a. Exedy Stage 2 clutch will not hold up. I recommended the Exedy Triple disk...I have it in my car. Other people are recommending 6 puck clutches, which I think are harsher engaging and have a stiffer pedal than the triple. But they are also a 1/4 of the cost of a triple.

6b. You can use the UTEC and get away with it. I made 510whp last year on an ECUTek flash and UTEC combo, but it got real old, real quick. I'm now running a Hydra.


If you really have all this money burning a hole in your pocket, I still stick by my original plan:

Axis Stage 3 engine
Axis P&P heads and cams
Buy a 35R for your Perrin turbo kit, sell your 30R
Hydra
Exedy Triple Disk or a 6-puck if you run out of money.

This stuff combined with the other mods that you hopefully already have to accompany your 30R should net you ~600whp on C-16.

Then fix it as you go. Why spend the money on stuff that's not broke.

Or just paypal me the money....I have a bunch of Axis stuff on my credit card I need to pay off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bloopsta26 View Post
been doing some thinking and more questions came to mind.

1. If i did run an axis motor which one? stage 5 or 6? with pnp heads and stage2 valvetrain?
2. what turbo would work best on a stage 5 reving to 9500 rpms on a stage 2 valvetrain...gt35 or a gt40
3. doing that should i use a blow thru maf?
4. dogbox will then put me in the doghouse? soo should i wait on the dogbox? til about mid winter
5. stock axles and driveshaft hold over 600+hp?
6. will my stage 2 exady hold and will i need hydra or could i use utec and get away with it..

I ask these questions as im trying to figuer out what will be the best for hp for longjevity....i do know that things will break but im trying to eliminate them before they happen...

I mean i can be cheap and just do pistons/rods/cams and a gt35r and leave it at that. But remember i do not want to just cheat this build and get away with every little short cut..

Last edited by SloRice; 08-27-2007 at 02:22 PM. Reason: changed 6b - I am running a Hydra now
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Old 08-27-2007, 02:19 PM   #53
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Ha i think im going to start ordering things now....lol
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:59 PM   #54
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Bloop, SloRice speaks the truth.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:23 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XS_WRX View Post
oh and an ACT 6puck clutch... its cheap and holds A LOT of power.
True statement but It doesnt last long.
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Old 08-28-2007, 12:14 PM   #56
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soo should i just stay with my stage 2 exady and wait til it goes then get a triple plate?
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Old 08-28-2007, 02:09 PM   #57
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oops

Last edited by Homemade WRX; 08-28-2007 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 08-28-2007, 02:10 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bloopsta26 View Post
soo should i just stay with my stage 2 exady and wait til it goes then get a triple plate?
I would just to save money for what you are ultimately trying to buy...be it, the stage 2 won't hold
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:19 PM   #59
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I dont know if the 35r will get you 600whp. It might get you close though, I'm using a T04R which people are making 700whp on, and it's only a $900 turbo. It will definately get you to your 600whp goal.
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:41 PM   #60
bloopsta26
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so i talked with my tuner....he said its easier to down tune this run a turbo to its full limit....soo we might do a gt42r....
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:44 PM   #61
SloRice
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who's your tuner?
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:50 PM   #62
bloopsta26
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jorge at p&l motorsports in chicago....he is the one who tuned my gt30r back in june...

they think itll be easier to run a gt42r at a lower boost than a gt35r at a higher boost to see 600hp...makes sense to me but yet again i dont know how reliable itll make the setup....they also recommended the axis stage 5 block
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:51 PM   #63
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soo idk....
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:56 PM   #64
SloRice
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Why not call the person that actually makes the motor instead of talking to all of us. He's going to tell you what you need.
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:56 PM   #65
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yeaup.... i appricieate everyones advice....its helped me alot to see whats out there and all the suggestions....i thank you guys a ton.....
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Old 08-28-2007, 11:47 PM   #66
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no offense, but i think you should go back to the begining of this thread and re-read it. 42r? triple disc clutch? 16k? nevermind.....I'm one of the few people that have traveled down the road you desire, 100k+ invested into my STi. I have the axis stg5 block, ppg dogbox, triple disc, etc. If I had it to do all over, I would stick with a UR35r + stock motor and tranny. Way too much bang for the buck. 550whp on c16 with "reliability", and you can have it within a few weeks for half the cost.

a 42r setup plus supporting mods is more like 30k, plus 1 year for build time. of course it could be done quicker/cheaper, but spend a little time researching other people that have actually put a 600whp into fruition.

dont get me wrong, if you have money to burn, a $hit load of patience, and dyno queen desires, a 42r is right for you.
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Old 08-31-2007, 04:50 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saintluciascooby View Post
youll be closer to 35k all said and done

rule of thumb (and this the best advice you will get, if it wasnt already given):
If you price a project out at, lets say... $16k, plan on spending $32k MINIMUM! Its always double $$$.

otherwise good luck
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Old 08-31-2007, 12:44 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burnin4 View Post
no offense, but i think you should go back to the begining of this thread and re-read it. 42r? triple disc clutch? 16k? nevermind.....I'm one of the few people that have traveled down the road you desire, 100k+ invested into my STi. I have the axis stg5 block, ppg dogbox, triple disc, etc. If I had it to do all over, I would stick with a UR35r + stock motor and tranny. Way too much bang for the buck. 550whp on c16 with "reliability", and you can have it within a few weeks for half the cost.

a 42r setup plus supporting mods is more like 30k, plus 1 year for build time. of course it could be done quicker/cheaper, but spend a little time researching other people that have actually put a 600whp into fruition.

dont get me wrong, if you have money to burn, a $hit load of patience, and dyno queen desires, a 42r is right for you.

Austin is right, you have no idea what you are about to get youreself into. If you don't have 30k to play with right now don't even start to think about a 42r, actually don't even start to think about anything bigger than a 35R
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Old 08-31-2007, 04:49 PM   #69
Full-Race Geoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobyless View Post
full-race is still working on a 40r setup and it will be a while till they're done...Flipping the manifold will make the car a bit more responsive although there is some skepticism about that, if you don't care to keep the a/c I would see no reason not to, there's just a decent amount of work involved in doing that.
thanks for the plug, but we have actually finished the 40R setups and they are available.

flipping the manifold will DEFINATELY make the engine more responsive, will spool the turbo earlier (decrease lag) and improve lowend - midrange power. One of the best mods you can do if you have a FMIC

Quote:
Originally Posted by SloRice View Post
The 40R is still somewhat unproven. The 4088 is a turd turbo that is not worth anything for high boost. The 4094 looks great on paper, but I've heard it spools like a 42R with way less power....might was well get the 42R then. The 35R will make 600whp if the appropriate accompanying mods are done.
The 4088R is actually a very solid performer. One of my all-time favorite turbochargers in fact. There are some instances in which the 40R might have problems with high boost, but that is not due to the turbo, in fact it is usually due to the manifold.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobyless View Post
Someone mentioned an exedy tripple plate, if this car is going to be driven around more than just on the track I would consider a clutch that AR Fabrication worked on with clutch masters, it's a single 6 puck that is supposed to be extremely drivable and also handle a good amount of power.
for a 600whp car, a single disc isnt going to cut it. The twindiscs are excellent as are the triples, but no single disc puck style clutch will do what you need it to, especially on a heavy AWD car

Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
m3gtr's comments are spot on...I personally wouldn't do a 4-1 using a 40r. I'd run a twinscroll manifold.
my main tips would be, don't shortcut your EM, fuel system, heads and oiling system.
^^^^ what he said, but also dont shortcut on the turbo manifold
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Old 08-31-2007, 04:50 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S L O W W R X View Post
Austin is right, you have no idea what you are about to get youreself into. If you don't have 30k to play with right now don't even start to think about a 42r, actually don't even start to think about anything bigger than a 35R
i agree it wouldnt be wise to consider a 42R, but the 40R costs only slightly more than a 35R and does have some advantages...
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Old 08-31-2007, 05:48 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Full-Race Geoff View Post
^^^^ what he said, but also dont shortcut on the turbo manifold
but of course...sad thing most people don't know the kinds of gains that can be had with a properly engineered/designed manifold on either side of the engine.

Last edited by Homemade WRX; 08-31-2007 at 05:54 PM.
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Old 08-31-2007, 06:03 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
sad thing most people don't know the kinds of gains that can be had with a properly engineered/designed manifold on either side of the engine.
i think that will change in the next year...
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Old 08-31-2007, 08:19 PM   #73
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ive been looking at the magnus intake manifolds...u can flip those right?

i do plan on putting more money into this winter....this is just a "where to start" list...make sense?
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Old 08-31-2007, 09:09 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SloRice View Post
I'm not saying the 40R is a bad turbo. I'm just saying the 4094 is just as laggy as a 42R. Why not just get a 42R and make another 150whp. You're selling yourself short with the 4094.
Trust me is not. If you look the PPB section you can see what I'm talking about. Great results with it so far.
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Old 08-31-2007, 09:19 PM   #75
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