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Old 08-23-2007, 12:55 PM   #1
SERGEREYES
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Default Help Why powershifting bog between shift ?????

Hey guys need help figure out why my car is bogging when I'm powershifting, it is not tuning issue car makes 456whp 11.4afr all accross the board...

If I baby it between gears there is no problem...

Is there any map that I need to adjust to prevent this issue...it feels like the engine shuts off between gear when I powershift...

thanks
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Old 08-23-2007, 04:41 PM   #2
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Get a log up here and we'll take a look.
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Old 08-23-2007, 04:59 PM   #3
SERGEREYES
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akira02rex View Post
Get a log up here and we'll take a look.
somebody told me that there is a map called throttle actuator, that suposely closes the throttle to 25% after 7000rpm

serge
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Old 08-23-2007, 05:21 PM   #4
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That is correct. A true 2-step would be your best bet though.
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Old 08-27-2007, 10:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SERGEREYES View Post
somebody told me that there is a map called throttle actuator, that suposely closes the throttle to 25% after 7000rpm

serge
tried playing around with that map and nothing...

Somebody told me about a new flash software that allows you to use Launch control and Flatfoot shifting...

Does anyone know which one it is...?

thanks

Serge
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Old 08-28-2007, 06:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SERGEREYES View Post
tried playing around with that map and nothing...

Somebody told me about a new flash software that allows you to use Launch control and Flatfoot shifting...

Does anyone know which one it is...?

thanks

Serge
Yeah, grab an accessport
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Old 08-28-2007, 11:18 PM   #7
ZR2_S10
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if you have a dbw car, the throttle does close during a shift, however if you have a dbc car, its physically impossible for the throttle plate to close unless you pull your foot up.
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Old 08-30-2007, 12:53 PM   #8
R & H Garage
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This happens to a lot of DBW owners in 1st gear mostly.

Tach lag my friend. You have to shift earlier in first. Your engine RPM is higher than that indicated by your tach. So the throttle plate is indeed shutting down on you. Try shifting 500rpm sooner.

If it's not DBW (03WRX in your profile) , then it is indeed the tune. But not the fault of the tuner. It's the fault of the setup.
On the dyno we use third or fourth gear usually to get the car dialed in. During that time the change in load is more gradual.
However, when you are lower in gears, the load increases more rapidly. the ecu uses "delta load". It's essentially a fuel enrichment based on how fast the load is increasing. It calculates this based on the rate of MAF voltage increase. If you don't have a larger than stock MAF, I would recommend it. Since the "delta load" map is currently not available to most tuners, the only way to combat this is to drive slower or get a larger MAF.

Frequently we tuners get phone calls saying "the car is running in the 10's for AFR when I punch it. I thought it was supposed to be 11's"
Then I ask if they are watching in 1st and 2nd. Then explain this phenomenon. Unfortunately, if we tune the car to be perfect at lower gears, when you hold it to the floor in third and fourth, it's going to blow.
What we need is either gear based fuel trims, delta load or gear based timing trims. Until that time, using a larger MAF helps a lot in minimizing this problem.


Oh one more thing, Do you have a ricer BOV? If so, that's the problem. It's venting all that air off to the atmosphere and the engine is adding the required fuel for it, thus resulting in a bog. Either dump the BOV, tighten the **** out of the spring, or live with the bog.

Hope that helps.
-Dominic

Last edited by R & H Garage; 08-30-2007 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 09-01-2007, 02:31 PM   #9
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Could any of this stuff explain why my car falls to 10psi if I don't let completely off the gas when shifting?

It's an o4 sti and sometimes at the track I guess I shift too fast (keep forgetting it's not a honda) boost goes from 16ish down to 10, then stays at 10 no matter what until I lift fully off the gas and get back on it.

Could it be the ecu thinking it is picking up knock or something and restricting boost?

The weird thing is, I tried to figure this out once before. With the stock ecu, no reflash, I could take the car and FFS it (not recomended) it would fall to 10psi then go right back up without letting off the gas, once flashed with a cobb stage 2 tune or any other cobb map, if you do this same thing it will drop to 10psi and never come back up untill you let out completely. Pisses me off cause I don't ffs the car but if I'm not 100% off the gas between shifts it will do this.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:52 PM   #10
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ignitin advance multiplier, 4 or below ? puts the turbo at nada
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Old 09-19-2007, 04:55 PM   #11
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There is a manifold pressure check before the injectors turn back on as well for rev limiter. I know it applies to all the DBW cars. Not 100% if it is in the 2.0L cable throttle cars as well off the top of my head.

It might keep the injectors from turning on as quick after you bounce off the rev limiter, but it shouldn't cause any worse lag in boost building up once they do turn back on. I don't know of anything that cuts wastegate duty in relation to rev limiter. You might try increasing your far right proportional turbo dynamics value. If your target is 17 psi and you seem to lag after shift to only 10 psi, you could ramp the right value to 7psi error, and put a larger correction value. Just don't make the slope any steeper. (i.e. if the current is set for 0.3bar error, 3% WGDC correction, set it for 0.7bar error, 7% correction).
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Old 12-02-2007, 07:59 PM   #12
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this is clutch switch/flat foot shiffting related I can bet

If you add the remote switch on your delta with the flying leads to clutch switch you will bog betwen shifts!!!!
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Old 12-03-2007, 01:08 PM   #13
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Two things:

1. The DBW settings cut throttle near redline to 20%. Make that to about 50% instead.

2. Rev Limit Boost Resume (under Misc in enginuity). It is not in the 16 bit cars. It is set to 9 PSI on most 32 bit ROMs. Up that to whatever PSI you get at redline.

I FFS that way and it works awesome. No knock, just fast shifts and the ECU takes care of lifting the throttle 50% for you with the go pedal still planted. I have tried keeping the throttle open 100%, but I get shift knock when I do that, plus it is worse on the engine.

Gabe

Edit: This applies for only DBW cars. It seems you have some other tuning issue.

Last edited by gabedude; 12-03-2007 at 01:17 PM.
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