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Old 08-23-2007, 01:08 PM   #1
Hites
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Default 97 EJ22 Single Port header sound question & a tranny cooler question to boot!

Hokay, here's tha prooblemz:

1. Borla header. Now I know that these damn things are thinner than hell and you get so much damn hissing that it sounds like a hooker suckin' air through a straw. What I want to know is if they also make the valvetrain much more audible. I don't know if I'm just hearing my valvetrain or I have an exhaust leak, because the Borlas aren't known for being the flushest mounting, single port gaskets are a pita to find, and I just have the old gaskets on with a double sided generous helping of hi-temp copper gasket maker. Also, would header wrap significantly reduce the hissing noise? Would it be ill-advised in my salt-belt state due to header wrapping being known to lock in moisture and salt?

2. Tranny cooler idea. My Slowbaru is an automatic. Does mine even have a tranny cooler? Would it pointless for me to even put one on? If no to both questions, then would it be... "nifty" to get a cooler, a 2.5RS hood, and mount the cooler you know where?

THE END!
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Old 08-23-2007, 03:17 PM   #2
renyo
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I have no clue about the sound seeing as I don't have Borla headers (I'm thinking of getting some custom made), but I'm sure there's a few threads around here about wrapping the exhaust and I'm pretty sure the general consensus is that it's a bad idea. Bad **** gets stuck in it and specifically moisture will get in there and make them even more prone to cracking then they already are.

Now.. as for the tranny cooler.. I'm pretty sure we (I have a 98 2.2) don't have one, but if we do (since you brought up the subject of hookers) it's probably akin to a hooker blowing on the transmission case through a straw. I don't think a cooler is going to help you performance wise, but it'll help it last longer. It's recommended if you...
a) spend a lot of time in the higher revs
b) tow sometimes
c) get any performance work done on the transmission

Putting a trans cooler under a RS scoop sounds kinda cool actually but I think you'd have problems with mounting the thing and then plumbing (both the trans fluid and the intake.) Plumbing new hoses for the cooler might not be that hard but I think it'd block the TB as most things that sit there are supposed to go right into it.) Still seems like an interesting idea if you can get it propped up high enough to sneak part of an intake under it...

Last edited by renyo; 08-23-2007 at 03:19 PM. Reason: subject reading comp. >> me
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Old 08-23-2007, 03:21 PM   #3
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The hissing is because the header is cracked or broken. Get it welded and motor on until it starts hissing again. If you have leakes at the flanges, see what you can do about slowly filing them smooth.

As a last resort, you can buy some .065 mandrel bends and straight tubing and have a welder use the Borla as a jig to make a stronger header.

Does the valve noise go away once warmed up? If not, take it in for further diagnosis/service. If it goes away, let it warm up before driving it hard.

The trans has a cooling circuit built into the radiator....but probably not an auxilary cooler. You can add one....it won't hurt anything unless you end up with leaks or run it low on fluid.

Jay Storm
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Old 08-23-2007, 04:05 PM   #4
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i doubt its cracked, because its always sounded like it does. the best way i can describe it is like a pulsing pneumatic (yeah, crappy description, i know). i cant find even the slightest blackening to indicate a leak, so idk.
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Old 08-23-2007, 04:27 PM   #5
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Like Jay said, the cooler is in the center of the radiator. Follow the two small metal lines on the drivers side head. They turn into rubber hoses up front and go to the radiator. An automatic transmission cooler is critical for transmission and fluid longevity, which is why I highly doubt you'll ever find an automatic transmission that doesn't incorperate one into the system somewhere.
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Old 08-23-2007, 05:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mi_cistemz_loudr View Post
Like Jay said, the cooler is in the center of the radiator. Follow the two small metal lines on the drivers side head. They turn into rubber hoses up front and go to the radiator. An automatic transmission cooler is critical for transmission and fluid longevity, which is why I highly doubt you'll ever find an automatic transmission that doesn't incorperate one into the system somewhere.
my 99 accord v6 coupe didnt have one. needless to say, one of my first mods was a tranny cooler.
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Old 08-23-2007, 06:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hites View Post
i doubt its cracked, because its always sounded like it does. the best way i can describe it is like a pulsing pneumatic (yeah, crappy description, i know). i cant find even the slightest blackening to indicate a leak, so idk.
Its cracked. If upon further inspection you discover otherwise...just wait...it will be cracked. Go to Subaru and buy new exhaust manifold gaskets. They are around $6.00 each and will more than likely provide the proper seal. If you're lucky, you can re-use them once, maybe twice after the initial use but 3 times is the charm and you definately will need new ones again.

It goes like this...

You hear hissing...replace the gaskets...hissing goes away.
3 weeks (or months if you're lucky) later, you hear chirping...remove headers...have it welded...re-use gaskets.

3 weeks (or months if you're lucky) later, you hear chirping...remove headers...have it welded...re-use gaskets (if you're lucky).

3 weeks (or months if you're lucky) later, you hear chirping...remove headers...have it welded...buy new gaskets.

And it goes on like this until you get frustrated and then do as Storm recommends and use the Borla header as a Jig for the welder. In my case, I am the welder (not a very good one but I can effectively flash burn my eyes from time to time) and I will soon be using my existing single port NA Borla headers as a jig for a new header that I will weld up...and then buy new gaskets
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:05 PM   #8
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ill play game for now. ok, around which welds do they typically crack? where they collect at the y, at the head flanges, or at the exhaust flange?
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Old 08-23-2007, 11:20 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hites View Post
ill play game for now. ok, around which welds do they typically crack? where they collect at the y, at the head flanges, or at the exhaust flange?
In my case...the 1st time, it broke off at the collector. Didn't stop at crack...it just broke. I had it repaired by an FAA certified weldor and gave him full reign to add bracing as he saw fit. It was awesome for another 3-4months, then it cracked at the edge of one brace, then another 6 months until it broke clean off at the drivers side flange to the head.

I cut the flanges and collector off, ground out the residual tubing/weld material and made my own long tube header similar to an MRT. Alot of work....but I won't have to worry about it breaking anytime soon!



I'm not a very good welder, but this was more fun than I've had in awhile!!! (well except for the molten boogers landing in the inside of my elbow.... )

Jay Storm
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:28 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hites View Post
ill play game for now. ok, around which welds do they typically crack? where they collect at the y, at the head flanges, or at the exhaust flange?
I've had cracks around both flanges, in the middle of the passenger side tube, near the end of the driver's side elbow near the flange, several at the "Y" (on top and bottom), two near the collector, and several more that I've forgotten about but am sure were there at some point.
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Old 08-24-2007, 01:01 AM   #11
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Its a shame the darn thing sounds soooo good when it's in one piece. Why oh why would they use such a thin material.....and stick with it despite multiple failures? Probably has something to do with the discontinued production.

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Old 08-24-2007, 10:04 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Storm View Post
Its a shame the darn thing sounds soooo good when it's in one piece. Why oh why would they use such a thin material.....and stick with it despite multiple failures? Probably has something to do with the discontinued production.

Jay Storm
uhoh, i just noticed that youre a fellow ohioan and appear to be more than able to do some fabrication. how ya doin, buuuddy?
but seriously, would you be able to fab me up a borla replica that isnt paper thin with ***** welds if i drove to your place? where do you live at?
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Old 08-26-2007, 10:53 AM   #13
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hokay, statoos reportz:

checked everything i could check, including being under the scooby whilst running. i couldnt find a single crack or even an indication of a crack. guess its fine. seems to quiet down a bit after getting warmed up, which still leads me to believe is purely due to the notorious loudass scooby valvetrain and the paper thin headers getting softer with heat.
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Old 09-11-2007, 12:43 AM   #14
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I have some cheap ebay unequal length headers and they were loud.. until I wrapped them today. They had always sounded that way, almost like injector ticking noise but louder. I thought maybe it was the thin pipng or the gaskets but changing them never made it go away. Today after painstakingly wrapping them with almost 100ft of wrap, and using the crappy "self locking" stainless straps, they got so quiet I could hear a small leak where the axleback bolts on in the rear. Now I just have to get a rem flex gasket for that and no more noise. I may put more wrap on the headers, meineke is cheap if I ever need to weld them.
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Old 09-11-2007, 09:36 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
I have some cheap ebay unequal length headers and they were loud.. until I wrapped them today. They had always sounded that way, almost like injector ticking noise but louder. I thought maybe it was the thin pipng or the gaskets but changing them never made it go away. Today after painstakingly wrapping them with almost 100ft of wrap, and using the crappy "self locking" stainless straps, they got so quiet I could hear a small leak where the axleback bolts on in the rear. Now I just have to get a rem flex gasket for that and no more noise. I may put more wrap on the headers, meineke is cheap if I ever need to weld them.
so then it is the thin piping allowing excess noise to resonate, correct?
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Old 09-11-2007, 09:58 AM   #16
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On mine it was. I have a dohc 2.5 n/a though, yours could be different. I'm going to find some tie wire today to be sure my work isn't wasted with the wrap coming off. Beware of the "self locking" ties, go with something else if possible
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Old 09-11-2007, 11:19 AM   #17
RS Guy1513
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i have the duel port headers on my rs, and they have had that ticking, hissing, pneumatic pulsating sound since day 1...it's just the thin metal used because i have no leaks either. i have been thinking about wrapping them one of these days, but i dunno.....maybe if it quiets down the underhood sound

Last edited by RS Guy1513; 09-12-2007 at 07:52 AM.
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:45 PM   #18
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i fackin KNEW it! i could tell before i even put the damn things on that they were going to be overly noisy, just by rapping on them with my knuckles.
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