Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Tuesday July 29, 2014
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences Home Registration is free! Visit the NASIOC Store NASIOC Rules Search Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Calendar Archive NASIOC Upgrade Garage Logout
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Built Motor Discussion

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-27-2007, 02:51 PM   #1
benw
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 103320
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oklahoma City
Vehicle:
2005 wingless
aspen white

Default Separating turbo hotside from CHRA

I know this isn't really a built motor type question, but if any one particular group of people have done this before, I think the built motor demographic is the most likely.

So, I've got a FP Green, and a brand new 8cm housing I'm swapping on. I have the v-band off and the turbine housing is stuck on the CHRA. There's nothing else holding it on besides whatever bonding the metals have done, so I attacked it with PB blaster for the last two nights. I'm hesitant to freak out on it with a hammer, due to the proximity of the turbine wheel to the housing, so I have just been gently tapping.

What's the easiest way to get the turbine housing off? Could I possibly hammer a thin screwdriver between the two, and wedge it loose that way? Or should I use a torch? I saw a Blouch turbo rebuild video and the tech in the movie used a torch to heat up the joint between the CHRA and the turbine housing. I'm afraid if I do that I might coke some oil inside the CHRA, and since I'm just swapping housings and not rebuilding the internals, that scares me.

Help is appreciated!
Ben
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
benw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2007, 03:54 PM   #2
Bluestreak03
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 125887
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Grants Pass, OR
Vehicle:
2003 18g ej255 swap
04 STI WRB

Default

Hi, I have taken a few turbos apart and heating it up slightly where they come together and gently hitting up on it with a deadblow is the best way to do it. Most of what is holding it together is carbon build up. And make sure you hit it in an upward motion. I know on the IHI vf series they have a little alignment pin on them. If you do hit it sideways you will either shear the pin or break it sideways. I hope this helps you.

Last edited by Bluestreak03; 08-27-2007 at 04:00 PM. Reason: because
Bluestreak03 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2007, 04:01 PM   #3
Mark C.
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 157244
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Default

If you're scared of blunt force trauma, and you've soaked it with pb, you can always put the t/hsg in a vice and try to twist the cartridge with compressor housing to break it free, but many times you'll have to bang on the housing to knock it free. Don't be too horribly shy (don't take a 10lb sledge to it either) about hitting the housing, remember there is a skirt that the housing is going to slide over on the CHRA, so simply hitting it is not going to send it into the turbine wheel. An element of care should be taken, but it's not made of glass so you should be alright.
Mark C. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-27-2007, 07:15 PM   #4
benw
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 103320
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oklahoma City
Vehicle:
2005 wingless
aspen white

Default

awesome guys, I'll tackle it tonight.
benw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2007, 10:52 PM   #5
flycaster
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 60142
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bend, OR
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Grey

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark@RealStreet View Post
...so simply hitting it is not going to send it into the turbine wheel...
That sure as hell isn't true with a Garrett - are you 100% positive about this? I had to be really careful otherwise it would bind against the turbine fins if it got cockeyed at all.
flycaster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2007, 12:30 PM   #6
Mark C.
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 157244
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by flycaster View Post
That sure as hell isn't true with a Garrett - are you 100% positive about this? I had to be really careful otherwise it would bind against the turbine fins if it got cockeyed at all.
Yes I am. Here's a GT2871R (which is extremely similar to your GT30)







And here's an HKS GT2835R where you can see that same recessed lip I'm talking about.

Mark C. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2007, 12:43 PM   #7
Mark C.
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 157244
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
Default

Do realize, though, I'm not telling you (the thread starter) to use a hammer to 'get it off' per se...it's merely to knock the carbon and other buildup free, then remove it in a somewhat delicate fashion so you don't hurt the turbine blades.
Mark C. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
separating the transmission from the engine gypsymoth Service & Maintenance 18 01-20-2013 10:08 PM
Separating gauge body from lens face? B16A2NR Interior & Exterior Modification 2 09-12-2007 02:14 PM
Separating center diff from trans? Fat Tits Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline 3 10-13-2003 09:51 AM
Separating the Grist from the McRae HoRo1 Motorsports 14 10-08-2002 08:00 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:12 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2014 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2014, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.