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#1 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 103320
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oklahoma City
Vehicle:2005 wingless aspen white |
I know this isn't really a built motor type question, but if any one particular group of people have done this before, I think the built motor demographic is the most likely.
So, I've got a FP Green, and a brand new 8cm housing I'm swapping on. I have the v-band off and the turbine housing is stuck on the CHRA. There's nothing else holding it on besides whatever bonding the metals have done, so I attacked it with PB blaster for the last two nights. I'm hesitant to freak out on it with a hammer, due to the proximity of the turbine wheel to the housing, so I have just been gently tapping. What's the easiest way to get the turbine housing off? Could I possibly hammer a thin screwdriver between the two, and wedge it loose that way? Or should I use a torch? I saw a Blouch turbo rebuild video and the tech in the movie used a torch to heat up the joint between the CHRA and the turbine housing. I'm afraid if I do that I might coke some oil inside the CHRA, and since I'm just swapping housings and not rebuilding the internals, that scares me. Help is appreciated! Ben
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#2 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 125887
Join Date: Sep 2006
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Grants Pass, OR
Vehicle:2003 vf39 ej255 swap 04 STI WRB |
Hi, I have taken a few turbos apart and heating it up slightly where they come together and gently hitting up on it with a deadblow is the best way to do it. Most of what is holding it together is carbon build up. And make sure you hit it in an upward motion. I know on the IHI vf series they have a little alignment pin on them. If you do hit it sideways you will either shear the pin or break it sideways. I hope this helps you.
Last edited by Bluestreak03; 08-27-2007 at 04:00 PM. Reason: because |
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#3 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 157244
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
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If you're scared of blunt force trauma, and you've soaked it with pb, you can always put the t/hsg in a vice and try to twist the cartridge with compressor housing to break it free, but many times you'll have to bang on the housing to knock it free. Don't be too horribly shy (don't take a 10lb sledge to it either) about hitting the housing, remember there is a skirt that the housing is going to slide over on the CHRA, so simply hitting it is not going to send it into the turbine wheel. An element of care should be taken, but it's not made of glass so you should be alright.
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#4 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 103320
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oklahoma City
Vehicle:2005 wingless aspen white |
awesome guys, I'll tackle it tonight.
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#5 |
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Scooby Specialist
Member#: 60142
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bend, OR
Vehicle:2011 WRX Grey |
That sure as hell isn't true with a Garrett - are you 100% positive about this? I had to be really careful otherwise it would bind against the turbine fins if it got cockeyed at all.
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#6 | |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 157244
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
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Quote:
![]() ![]() ![]() And here's an HKS GT2835R where you can see that same recessed lip I'm talking about. ![]() |
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#7 |
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Scooby Newbie
Member#: 157244
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Florida
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Do realize, though, I'm not telling you (the thread starter) to use a hammer to 'get it off' per se...it's merely to knock the carbon and other buildup free, then remove it in a somewhat delicate fashion so you don't hurt the turbine blades.
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