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Old 08-26-2007, 03:51 PM   #1
CNC Scott
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I have an 07 WRX Wagon that I use as a daily driver and I will auto-x about once a month. I have a budget of $2750 for improving the handling and engine performance. I have already spent about $850 on Whiteline adjustable 24mm front and rear sway bars and end links and the SPT short throw shifter (I wanted to maintain the warranty on the tranny because the car was only 3 days old). I figure I should get an Accessport for another $700 and another $500 for a set of RS2 tires. That will give me only $700 for the rest of the suspension and engine mods. I was thinking of getting the STI pink springs for $300. I will have only $400 leftover are there any other “must do” upgrades? Are there any “take off” parts I should be looking for? Do I need to spend more money?
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Old 08-26-2007, 04:34 PM   #2
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700 for suspension can get you a KYB AGX struts with some used Pink springs. If you want to go over the budget a bit you can get the springs new or call Race Comp Engineering for there custom springs.

Have fun with the new car
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Old 08-26-2007, 05:49 PM   #3
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Out of the $400 you (might) have remaining, you'll need to spend $100 on an alignment after installing the springs.

$300 buys you cowl stays (aka fender braces) and a rear strut brace <--- makes a BIG difference in the wagon.

After that, you'll still have $$ left for gas.
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Old 08-26-2007, 09:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spenk View Post
Out of the $400 you (might) have remaining, you'll need to spend $100 on an alignment after installing the springs.

$300 buys you cowl stays (aka fender braces) and a rear strut brace <--- makes a BIG difference in the wagon.

After that, you'll still have $$ left for gas.
if you autox fender braces may be a no no in your class

the pinks are pretty nice but when you are putting those in...
get a good alignment (max neg up front.... with 0 toe)
and add some bolts in the upper strut holes if you want....(to help..)

you should be able to get the rs2's cheaper... http://edgeracing.com/tires/2254517/
(225/45 17 size.)


O...... and look up some threads on open source tuning....
technically a stage 1 or 2 cobb map will put you out of stu...(changes in boost...)
i'm not sure if cobb has an stu legal mapping for 06-07 yet...
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Old 08-26-2007, 10:49 PM   #5
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I would buy a used AP1 (works with your car?)

then struts, RS2's, and RCE springs.
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:17 PM   #6
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STOP BUYING NEW PARTS!!!!!!



Seriously, not one more new part. The availability of great used parts is amazing on here. Research, watch for deals, you can spend less than half of the $$$ you've listed above.

If you want, skip the AP and get a $90 tactrix cable...I'm sure you can track down a map of your liking.
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Old 08-26-2007, 11:52 PM   #7
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bigger rear swaybar and a decent endlinks.
kartboy stuffs are great in cost effective upgrades.
better shocks and great tires.. u can't be wrong
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:06 AM   #8
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How can you tell if used struts are still good?
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Old 08-27-2007, 11:58 AM   #9
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How can you tell if used struts are still good?
Looking for leaks is one things, you'll can normally see it.

Further, If you're considering buying used struts, mileage is a key factor.

After that, buy a cheap used downpipe, a used AP or a tactrix cable, and tires.

A used DP for $150 and a $90 cable with a conservative map will net you about 285 HP, or about 220+ whp....not bad for $240.
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Old 08-27-2007, 03:21 PM   #10
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I would do group n engine and tranny mount install. oh and kartboy crossmember bushing as well.
IMO, this is a must do cuz the car feels totally different rock soild..
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:14 PM   #11
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Coilovers!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 08-27-2007, 04:21 PM   #12
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You have already got the right things:

new tires (number 1 important, stock rubber is terrible)
swaybars/endlinks (also important)

Why buy an AP? If warranty is key, then the AP will more likely than not cause denial for any warranty repairs for the engine or tranny. Depends on the dealership or SOA for that region I suppose. You might update your profile to tell folks where you live...

I would say a nice set of springs (prodrive or SPT), and shocks, plus the alignment, and call it quits. Forget the AP, and use that $ towards auto-x fees, gas, or save it for other mods you notice once you start pushing the car. I guarantee after 2 auto-x you will want a new part.

A rear strut bar seems popular for those with wagons who auto-x them...
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Old 08-27-2007, 05:07 PM   #13
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Get your tires ($500) and don't get the AP yet. That will leave you with $1400.

Buy some track pads (~$300), 1000mL of Valvoline Synpower Brake fluid, flush your brake fluid yourself, and spend the last $1000 on 3 HDPE's (track day, lodging, gas). Doing stuff with your car is way more fun than doing stuff to your car.

Oh, and if you don't care about autox classing (ie, just autox for fun), then spend $120 on fender braces made by Turn in Concepts, Happy Motoring, etc. Feels real nice and goes along the same thought as sway bars.

Don't do the springs without the struts.
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Old 08-28-2007, 11:54 AM   #14
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Well I see that I need to add struts to my list. I was overwhelmed when searching through all of the posts about struts is there a simple answer Koni, D-specs or AGX for my application?
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Old 08-28-2007, 11:58 AM   #15
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Koni>dspec>AGX according to most.
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Old 08-28-2007, 12:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REX8 View Post
STOP BUYING NEW PARTS!!!!!!


If you want, skip the AP and get a $90 tactrix cable...I'm sure you can track down a map of your liking.
Where do I buy such a cable and where do I get maps?
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Old 08-28-2007, 12:47 PM   #17
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Well I see that I need to add struts to my list. I was overwhelmed when searching through all of the posts about struts is there a simple answer Koni, D-specs or AGX for my application?
Koni's for their excellent digressive damping characteristics and "infinitely adjustable" valves. But, these are most expensive and require use of donor strut bodies, which make them the most expensive to install. But because they use donors, then they'll be an exact match for the wagon, mechanically.

D-specs are tougher than Koni's. Because I rallyx, I Koni's are not an option for me, so D-specs are the next choice. Unknown what their shock dyno looks like. I think these are infinitely adjustable too. Problem is, these are sedan only, so when you stick sedan struts on a wagon, you lose neg camber and require camber bolts just to bring it back to stock.

AGX is the bang for buck route. Better than having mismatched spring to struts, but AGX are click adjustable. (8 or 4 way; I'm not sure). I've had AGX on a previous car of mine, and while they worked fine, the fact that the increments were so few, I constantly was clicking between two settings. IE, 4 and 5 because I really wanted "4.6". Not a very digressive curve; compared to Koni's. Least expensive adjustable strut, yet a good track record.

Go with the Koni's.

Or just get some spring/strut take off's from an STi sedan, add camber bolts and be done.

BTW, you already maxed your neg camber in the front with an alignment right? That should be done before everything else.
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Old 08-28-2007, 01:11 PM   #18
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Where do I buy such a cable and where do I get maps?
www.tactrix.com

www.osecuroms.org for maps.
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Old 08-28-2007, 01:48 PM   #19
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O yea you may want to invest some $$ into an AutoX Driving class. With the mods you have already you might as well spend half that and learn how to drive the car well. This will also make you better and appreciate the new mods.

Just my .02 My cars suspension and power is all stock and I got 4th in last years Suby Challenge locally. This is the STX class im talking about. Just Tires, Brakes, and driving classes is what I spent my $$ on.
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Old 08-28-2007, 09:02 PM   #20
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I cannot find an Auto-x driving class here in Southern California although many of the practice events have more experienced drivers that will ride along. Any ideas on where I could find a driving class?
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Old 08-28-2007, 09:32 PM   #21
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For sure some coilovers....For the engine an ECUTEK with a nice mapping
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Old 08-29-2007, 01:40 AM   #22
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Quote:
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For sure some coilovers....For the engine an ECUTEK with a nice mapping
...wrong---just plain wrong
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Old 08-29-2007, 02:06 PM   #23
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i always thought that coilovers were great for the track but rubbish for the raod
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:37 PM   #24
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1) Get to know your car in stock form.
2) Figure out what you don't like or would want to improve
3) Change stuff in #2
4) Relearn car
5) Repeat 2-5

If you're coming into this clueless, all you're doing is throwing money at the car for no reason. Know what you're doing, why you're doing it, and know if it's the best route towards your end goal.

How to drive faster:
1) Improve driver
2) Stickier tires
3) Good alignment
4) Suspension upgrades to maximize grip

#1 is the biggest factor. One guy in a car can go around a particular autocross course in 43 seconds. Another guy can take the same car and do it in 36 seconds. Going from all season to high performance tires may get the poor driver down to 39 seconds. The good driver will go out and do 33 seconds. You can get away with a lot if you know what you're doing, even fully stock. Upgrades doesn't necessarily help if you don't know what to do with it.

"Must-do's" is different for different people. I have my own personal preferences that will make my setup very different than yours. It depends on your driving style, your ride preferences, and what goals you have for the car.

For auto-x, just prep the car for sport use. In a basic sense, this means some expendable tires(doesn't need to be a performance tire if you're not shooting for low times) and upgraded brakes(decent pads and brake fluid).
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Old 08-30-2007, 02:15 AM   #25
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Quote:
If you're coming into this clueless, all you're doing is throwing money at the car for no reason. Know what you're doing, why you're doing it, and know if it's the best route towards your end goal.
I am certainly not going into this clueless, I have machined,fabricated, tested and raced off road cars for years so I have a good understanding of vehicle handeling. I am just new to Subarus and to auto-x and it is difficult to get the car I would really like to have, within my budget.

The stock WRX is a great car but, my stock WRX feels like it has too much body roll, pushes a little too much in the corners and does not quite feel "planted" enough. Also the throttle response on the bottom end is lacking
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