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Old 09-02-2007, 02:02 AM   #1
Matth3w
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Default How To: MY04/05 Whiteline Front/Rear Sway Install

This wonderful write-up is going to teach you how to install your Whiteline front and rear sway bars and endlinks in about three hours, give or take a few skinned knuckles. I used a lift so my time might be a bit shorter than yours, with a few less banged up digits.

I have taken about 44 pictures, almost all of which will be in this thread, so if you have a 56k modem (if those still exist) you might as well go grab a coffee.

The difficulty of this installation is slim to none. If I can do it with no hiccups, so can you. I really hope to hear feedback from you so I can add, change, or delete this write-up as necessary.

A bit of a caveat – I don’t take responsibility for anything on your car that you screw up, and this install is for an 04/05 WRX Sedan with Whiteline bars and endlinks, so if you have anything different…I’m not sure I can answer your questions.

Tools/supplies required:
- Socket wrench
- 12mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 17mm sockets
- 17mm open end wrench or crescent
- 14mm open end wrench (I used this one http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...keyword=wrench , I suggest you do the same)
- Vice grips
- Rags
- Ramps if you don’t have access to a lift
- Flat tip screwdriver
- Teeth
- A second person (preferably, although I didn’t have a dedicated helper)

Inventory:
- 24mm Whiteline front sway bar (has two holes, and is almost a simple “U” shape)
- Bag-o-goodies for the front endlinks
- 22mm Whiteline rear sway bar (has three holes, and is much more bent in several directions to clear exhaust and whatnot)
- Two “U” shaped endlinks and associated bolts and whatnot
- Grease

First thing I did was the rear bar to build confidence in tackling the front bar. Below are pictures of the stock setup in the rear. I took pictures for this how-to and to remember how the bar was set up. I suggest either printing my pictures or taking your own for this purpose. For the purposes of this right up the right side is the passenger’s side, and the left is driver’s.

(Right rear, looking back)


(Left rear, looking back)


(Overall stock setup, looking back and up)


Ok, so you start with two 14mm wrenches/sockets to remove the two bolts from each endlink in the rear. You can store them away because the Whitelines come with a 16mm bolt and 17mm nut. Then after you get both sides undone and stowed away, remove the 12mm bolt and 12mm nut from each of the bushing brackets. Pay attention to the orientation of the bracket because you will be re-using the stock hardware for these. The rear brackets/bushings are single lipped and the fronts are double lipped so make sure you are using the correct bushings. My Whiteline goodies didn’t come labeled as to which was front and rear, which is why I note this.

(Right rear endlink bolts and bracket removed)


(Comparison of stock/left endlink and Whiteline/right endlink)


Both the stock bushings and the Whiteline bushings have a slit so you can sort of remove them without having to slide them the length of the bar. You can leave the stock bushings on the bars because you won’t need them. But you need to remove the stock bracket (they are likely to simply fall off once unbolted from the frame).

(Removal of stock bracket from stock bushing)


Next thing you need to do is grease up the WL rear bushings with the supplied grease. Put them on the bar in the general location where you noticed the stock bushings were on the stock bar (the WL bar follows the same form as the stock bar). Don’t worry about being precise, you can slide them around later.

It should be noted that you need to feed the bar in a specific way. The points that attach to the endlinks need to go in first. If you try to line up the brackets and then rotate the bar up it won’t go.

(Left rear bar not attached)


(Right rear bar not attached)


Attach the bar with the bushings to the frame re-using the stock brackets. Do NOT tighten the bolts/nuts down…just enough to allow the bar to hang.

Now get out your elbow grease to jam the bottom of WL endlinks into the stock brackets. The order/way I did this, was I put the bottom of WL endlinks into the bracket and I slid the bolt through the hole and LIGHTLY screwed on nut.

It should be noted that while you may think it is natural to slide the bolt towards the inner portion of the car and put the nut on the inside, the WL directions have you face the nut to the outside. Again I will re-iterate that the bolt head is a 16mm and the nut is a 17mm.

Rotate the bar up and align the hole in the endlink to the hole you want to use on the bar (I used the middle/medium hole). Slide the bolt through and once again just barely tighten the nut.

(Left rear, nice and loose, not tightened)


(Right rear, nice and loose, not tightened)


Next thing you need to do is make sure everything looks ok and then tighten it down (I’m sure there is some torque spec you are supposed to use, but I simply tightened every bolt I encountered to the “pretty damn tight foot-pounds specification”). Notice how I put the bar on: the bar mounts on the inside of the endlink, not the outside. Some people have tried to mount them on the outside with little success. This all goes back to remembering how it looked when you took it apart and being able to read the piece of paper WL calls directions.
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Old 09-02-2007, 02:02 AM   #2
Matth3w
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(Tightening the left rear bracket, as seen from the rear facing the front)


Ok, you’re all done with the rear!

(Left rear, all done)


(Right rear, all done)


(Bend that clears the exhaust)


(Final picture, facing the rear)


Moving on to the front of the car, you obviously encounter a bit more of a difficult situation. Your dilemma is to either drop the subframe or not. You can choose not to, but for the sake of this how-to we are going to. Frankly, I can’t justify the time it would take to try to maneuver around this subframe. It’s really a simple process, and a simple search on here will show you how many people have stripped their bolts trying to do it without dropping it.

(Picture of the stock setup, front, facing front and up)


First thing you need to do in the front is get rid of that stupid plastic piece. It has a total of five Phillips head/12mm nuts (use the 12mm not the Phillips head), and about six pop tabs (two of which are almost hidden on the sides). BTW, the “teeth” tool requirement was getting the pop tabs separated once you get them off the car. The two pop tabs on the side I broke yanking the subframe off. I didn’t even realize they were there.

(First two 12mm nuts on plastic piece removed)


(One of many pop tab locations)


(Plastic piece removed)


(Underside facing forward with plastic piece removed)
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Old 09-02-2007, 02:03 AM   #3
Matth3w
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Next unbolt the subframe. It is helpful to have someone there with you to hold it once you get it off (and again when you put it back on later). IIRC, you will have four 14mm, six 17mm, and two 12mm for a total of 12 bolts holding the subframe on. I tried to label as I remembered in the picture below (red is 14mm, blue is 17mm, and yellow is 12mm)

(Subframe with labeled bolt locations as described above, as if it was pulled directly from the front of the car, facing front, without rotating it)


(Picture of the pop-tab holding the subframe in place after bolts are removed that I simply ripped)


(Stock left front bar, bracket, and endlink)


(Stock right front bar, bracket, and endlink)


Pay attention to how the front bar and links are set up before you remove them so you don’t mess up the WL bar!

You will now realize that there is another piece under the subframe shaped like a diamond where the middle of the front bar is located. I removed the four 12mm bolts (two in the front and rear) and one of two of each of the 14mm bolts on each side (left and right). This allows you to pull the front of the piece down and slide the bar out. I’m sure there is some high-tech way of finangling the bar through all that crap but it’s too tight for me so I just loosened the bolts and slide the bar out.

(Me loosening one of the 12mm bolts on the diamond piece)


(See what I mean about pulling down to get the bar out/in?)


The next part was somewhat tricky and was great that there was someone I could call over to help. The bottom bolts on your stock front endlinks will simply rotate in place if you do not use a vice grip or equivalent to hold the actual bolt shaft in place while you loosen the head. Another thing complicating matters is the fact that there is a metal bracket so it is hard to get most wrenches on the bolt head. If you have the ratcheting box end wrench I linked to above it makes it VERY easy. Otherwise you would be turning it like 1/32 of a turn every ten seconds.

After you get the bottom bolts off, take off the brackets (same thing as the rear, both have one 12mm nut and one 12mm bolt) and remove the bar. I did not undo the top bolts of the endlinks because they have the same PITA bolts the bottom ones did.

As before, you will be reusing the brackets and their associated hardware, but everything else you can chuck/store.

(Front left, about to be removed – you can see the other end of the PITA bolt)


(Front right, about to be removed – you can see the other end of the PITA bolt)


Next thing I did was get a general idea of how the new bar would fit and match up. Below are the pictures.

(Front left)


(Front right)
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Old 09-02-2007, 02:03 AM   #4
Matth3w
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The next step is just like the next step in the rear: grease up the new bushings and reusing the stock brackets loosely attach the bar to the frame by the brackets.

After you do that you will need to assemble the new endlinks. They aren’t like the first. They are a conglomeration of nuts, bolts, spacers, and bushings. I didn’t take pictures because the instructions were pretty explicit.

Next, just like you did in the rear, connect the bars to the new endlinks loosely. I used the lower/harder hole.

(Front left, loosely connected, looking straight out)


(Front left, loosely connected, looking back)


(Front right, loosely connected)


I then aligned everything and tightened everything down. You will notice the front endlinks have the ability to rotate. Both the locknut at the bottom and the top portion can be adjusted so that the links face properly (see pictures below). If you need to adjust them you can either use a crescent or a 17mm open end wrench.

(All finished, left front)


(All finished, right front)
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Old 09-02-2007, 06:21 AM   #5
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awesome! i've been looking for a guide for the front sways
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Old 09-02-2007, 11:21 AM   #6
Matth3w
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Good, let me know how it works out
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Old 09-02-2007, 11:33 AM   #7
96accord
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sweet!
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Old 09-03-2007, 09:23 AM   #8
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This needs to be saved somewhere! Sticky or something. Nice job.

Those whiteline rear endlinks look wimpy!
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Old 09-06-2007, 10:35 AM   #9
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Great Job! This will surely help many people out there!
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Old 09-06-2007, 10:45 AM   #10
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Nice writeup but a shame you used those coat hanger rear endlinks. They aren't much of an improvement over stock, if any.
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Old 09-06-2007, 10:46 AM   #11
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Good writeup, but I can't believe you got your hands on some of the old style rear links from whiteline. Those have been discontinued for quite a long time.
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Old 09-06-2007, 12:01 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Good writeup, but I can't believe you got your hands on some of the old style rear links from whiteline. Those have been discontinued for quite a long time.
Stop copying me!
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Old 09-06-2007, 12:13 PM   #13
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Fanastic write-up. Good job !
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Old 03-08-2008, 05:14 PM   #14
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Bump for a good thread. I followed this for my 06 wrx front and rear whiteline install with kartboy links.

A couple additions:

I wrapped the swaybar in teflon tape to resist squeaking. This was posted a few times around nasioc. We'll see how this holds up.

The torque specs can be found here:
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80548

Vice grips aren't needed for the front endlink bolts. There is a 5mm allen wrench that goes on the end.

You may need to reuse the OE link bolts depending on what came with your links.

Kartboy hangers fit a little tight on the Whiteline front bars. I am still figuring this out.
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Old 03-08-2008, 09:56 PM   #15
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Added to the installation sticky. Thanks for the suggestion mla
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Old 03-08-2008, 10:17 PM   #16
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when upgrading the front swaybar..do you forsee any issues one would get by re-using the front stock endlinks? the whitelines seem to stand off from the mounting points.

great detailed writeup
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Old 03-09-2008, 12:40 AM   #17
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^Shouldn't have any fitment problem with the stock endlinks... maybe at risk of breaking if you're running the bar on full stiff, but that seems like it would be more of a concern for the rear endlinks than the fronts (due to shape).
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Old 03-09-2008, 09:06 AM   #18
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If possible could you put in torque specs on the subframe bolts? That would be an excellent addition to your writeup.
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Old 03-09-2008, 11:29 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daishi00 View Post
If possible could you put in torque specs on the subframe bolts? That would be an excellent addition to your writeup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mla163 View Post

The torque specs can be found here:
http://www.clubwrx.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80548
IMO any increase in swaybar size should be accompanied by an upgrade in links. Especially front.
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Old 03-09-2008, 05:55 PM   #20
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The fronts are pretty strong. I have only seen a handful that have broken or bent.

Tony
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Old 04-07-2008, 04:34 PM   #21
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Thumbs up Thanks to this forum

I put in a 22mm adj. whiteline RSB & kartboy rear endlinks on a stock 07 WRX sedan. I kept it at the softest(eqv. to 20mm) setting & the ride feels nice & firm (cmpared to stock). I can really feel the rear wheels being planted. A great improvement from the stock 17mm RSB with plastic(even though they look like very strong plastic) rear endlinks. I have the stock FSB in.

I will see how the car handles on wet roads with the 17" stock potenza RE92 before I tinker with the adj. settings (I dont want rally style drifts during daily commute through twisty canyons !!)

My next upgrade will be the front shifter bushings (from kartboy).
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Old 06-18-2008, 03:55 AM   #22
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Thanks a lot for this!
Just finished F/R COBB sways with F/R Kartboy wagon endlinks. I got them in a package from Spun Autosports for 549 shipped. Great deal~! Couldn't be happier!

Cheers,
Andrew
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Old 06-18-2008, 10:36 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matth3w View Post
(All finished, right front)
I wish I had that much clearance between the bottom endlink bolt and the swaybar!!

The bolt was rubbing the bar so bad I swapped it back to stock!
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:20 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96accord View Post
I wish I had that much clearance between the bottom endlink bolt and the swaybar!!

The bolt was rubbing the bar so bad I swapped it back to stock!
I read that you had went to Whiteline's front endlinks, replacing the kartboy front endlinks.

I am about to put on the 27mm WL sway and WL front bushing Endlinks. I hope i am not going to get alot of knock.... i have a short temper and will probably give birth to an stomach ulcer if knocking is a product of stiffer suspension.

P.S. great write up... installed the rear sway bar last night and my baby has a tighter rear. Feels great coming out of turns!!!

Thanks
Teddy
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Old 06-18-2008, 02:27 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96accord View Post
I wish I had that much clearance between the bottom endlink bolt and the swaybar!!

The bolt was rubbing the bar so bad I swapped it back to stock!
What was the Whiteline part number that was knocking?

WL-BSF36XXZ, WL-BSF33XXZ, or WL-???

The first two are 27mm Adj bars.
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