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Old 04-15-2007, 04:01 AM   #1
prometheum
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Default oil starvation question

worst case scenario what is involved in making the engine work again?

rod bearings, main bearings, new pistons and rings...what else?
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Old 04-16-2007, 01:28 AM   #2
reddevil
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Probably just the bearings, unless you drove it forever
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Old 04-16-2007, 01:35 AM   #3
dan avoN7
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really depends on what you were doing when you starved the motor. when I spun a rod bearing because of low oil I was at 7300rpm when the motor just lost all power.

damage was cylinder #2 broken bearing, #2 rod damaged, #2 journal on crank scuffed. rest of the block was perfect (block, pistons, other cylinders)
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Old 04-16-2007, 03:19 AM   #4
prometheum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan avoN7 View Post
really depends on what you were doing when you starved the motor. when I spun a rod bearing because of low oil I was at 7300rpm when the motor just lost all power.

damage was cylinder #2 broken bearing, #2 rod damaged, #2 journal on crank scuffed. rest of the block was perfect (block, pistons, other cylinders)
now what kind of damage would render the block useless or make it not worth fixing? the scuffed crank journal?

i already plan on new man and rod bearings, 0.5mm overbore and obviously new pistons and rings, possibly new rods if they were hurt.
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Old 04-16-2007, 01:35 PM   #5
dan avoN7
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I would say if the crank is toast then it's not worth rebuilding the 2.0 stock motor. At that point you are spending $300 or so on a new crank, $ on machine work for the new pistons, $ on new rods, $ on new bearings. All of that for an open deck 2.0 block still. Unless you are planning to sleeve the motor and shoot for big power, i'd just look into a 2.5 block.
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Old 04-16-2007, 02:23 PM   #6
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^^^
What dan avoN7 said
Might as well well go for the torquey 2.5 !

i spun bearing as well..... scuff piston, cyl wall, rod & crank - all other 3 pistons were good....

Morale of the story.... don't rev soooo high when pulling high G's on long turns- else risk ruining your engine
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Old 08-09-2007, 04:11 PM   #7
Arctic Assassian
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As long as the motor still turns over, is there a fair likelyhood of cylinder or crankshaft damage? would the cylinder damage be underneath the piston, or apparant if the heads are off? I'm looking to buy an oil starved motor, and I'd like to know the kind of money involved with rebuilding it.
Thanks
-Adam
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:06 PM   #8
dan avoN7
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I would not buy an oil starved motor, start out fresh. There's just too many risks involved and when spending money on a used motor that was previously damaged.

My old motor with the spun rod bearing would still turn over and fire up. It had a loud ticking sound though since the #2 rod bearing was completely destroyed so the rod kept smacking around on the crank.
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:32 PM   #9
Acostafan
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Absolutely, for what you can get a 2.5l for, it's almost a no brainer.
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Old 08-09-2007, 05:36 PM   #10
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Ummmm I am getting this shortblock for two hundred, and with my discount on parts, looking at 800 bucks for a freshly rebuilt bottom end. I can find dohc 2.5 heads for free. btw this is an 05 sti 2.5 shortblock. I mean turn over by hand, there are no heads or a pully on it.
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Old 09-06-2007, 03:34 PM   #11
thomas26
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Default engine trouble ej25

Can Any one help i have had my 2.5 classic turbo engine rebuilt it had a 2.0 before. car was run in as n/a with no turbo then re-map after run in period, driving the car last night that same knock at the crank has returned.
the engine block is brand new sti with wiseco pistons new uprated oilpump cam belt kit (with tensioners etc. the car was putting out about 320bhp
350ld ft torque. the car is now sitting parked up . i know its going to be an engine out job again but was looking for any comments on why this has happend again if was cover less than 3k since rebuild .
thanks
tam
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Old 09-08-2007, 11:28 PM   #12
hotrod
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We need more info to even make a wild guess on what went wrong!
Start with these questions --
year make and model, of car and engine?
Did you re-use any parts from the old engine?
Was it a new short block from the factory or an aftermarket build.
Tell us how the engine was run in --- oil, how long,method (rpm load etc.)
Any compression test info at any time from build to the breakdown?
Immediately after the re-map how did the engine run?
Any odd problems during the build and run in period?
How long after the re-map did the engine start to make noises?
what were you doing when the noises started?

Any hard usage after the re-map but before the engine started to make noise? (track days, drag racing, low oil pressure, low crank case oil, overheating etc. blown radiator hoses, over revs, drifting, burnouts etc.)

What fuel were you running?
What sort of weather (hot mild etc.)?

Larry
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