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Old 09-08-2007, 01:24 AM   #1
pheonix991
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Default LGT 97 Car shakes when stopped

When at a complete stop, I notice this mostly in the morning, my car is kind of vibrating a little bit. I read maybe it is a tranny issue, maybe I should change the transmission fluid? It is a 97 LGT, auto tranny.
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Old 09-08-2007, 09:09 AM   #2
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Mine does that too. Any change in my "change holder" rattles. I like to think my car is just really happy and wants to go. I was about to ask this same question.

If you let it roll just a hair, it should help the vibrating (for the time being).



Could it be the motor or transmission mounts?
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Old 09-08-2007, 10:26 AM   #3
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This is normal, unless the vibration is so great that it's shaking stuff apart.

You might find that if you renew the motor or tranny mounts that it might diminish, likewise replacing spark plugs and wires.

If you put it neutral, does the vibration go away entirely with the rpms increasing slightly, then dropping down again? That's normal too.
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Old 09-08-2007, 10:45 AM   #4
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The most common culprit is actually bad plugs & wires, belive it or not.

I'm not sure why the transmission would cause this to happen.

It could very well be mounts too. Easiest way to test that is to rev it up with the hood open and see if the engine rocks excessively.
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Old 09-08-2007, 11:52 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huffer View Post
If you put it neutral, does the vibration go away entirely with the rpms increasing slightly, then dropping down again? That's normal too.
I don't know about the original poster, but mine does. That's what lead me to believe the tranny.

Last edited by Frogsthatmoo; 09-08-2007 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 09-08-2007, 12:09 PM   #6
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my 92 was auto and did this due to the tranny mounts.
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Old 09-08-2007, 06:59 PM   #7
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I used to have a serious vibration thing going on while idling in drive with the brakes on... like when you are waiting for a traffic light to turn green.

Flushing out the 4EAT helped somewhat. Using Cheveron "Techron" fuel system cleaner every other fillup helped. New NGK plugs, and new wires also helped even more. Replacing the fuel filter also did make a difference.

I cant really say how much each of these steps contributed, to the regaining smoothness in my '96 Legacy "L" with the 4EAT automatic, and the 2.2 Litre motor. All I can really say is that the car now runs like it is brand new... and it has over 190,000 miles on it.
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Old 09-09-2007, 01:27 AM   #8
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I'm convinced the vibration in D while stopped is the trans mounts. The motor would feel rough in N or while driving if the motor needed tuned up or anything.
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Old 09-09-2007, 02:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huffer View Post
This is normal, unless the vibration is so great that it's shaking stuff apart.

You might find that if you renew the motor or tranny mounts that it might diminish, likewise replacing spark plugs and wires.

If you put it neutral, does the vibration go away entirely with the rpms increasing slightly, then dropping down again? That's normal too.
In neutral, the shaking is gone. So, must be the mounts.

I just got the car a couple of weeks ago, so, I'll probably need to do some maintenance as I get the money. Thanks guys. I won't worry much about it, but, if it does get worse, I'll drain the tranny fluid. I was going to upgrade the wires, and if they need them, the plugs too.
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Old 09-09-2007, 07:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pheonix991 View Post
In neutral, the shaking is gone. So, must be the mounts.

I just got the car a couple of weeks ago, so, I'll probably need to do some maintenance as I get the money. Thanks guys. I won't worry much about it, but, if it does get worse, I'll drain the tranny fluid. I was going to upgrade the wires, and if they need them, the plugs too.
I seriously doubt it's the mount unless it's shaking the entire car - it's simply a symptom of an older car and the tranny probably not being new etc.

When you do plugs, you should do wires too.
Tranny fluid replacement is cheap and easy - easier than replacing a tranny mount (unless you have an impact gun).
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Old 09-09-2007, 11:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pheonix991 View Post
In neutral, the shaking is gone. So, it must be the mounts.
No.

My '96 Legacy L with a 2.2 and a 4EAT would shake a great deal in drive while waiting for the light to change, but if I put it in neutral or park, the vibrations went away.

New plugs & wires as well as the fuel filter made a dramatic improvement. I also changed the O2 sensors, and I had "Jiffy Lube" do a transmission flush, and used several gasoline treatment bottles. None of these things made the vibrations worse. The combination of doing all these things made the car run smooth... just like a brand new car.

Go ahead and change the mounts. Let us know if you feel any differences. My guess is that if anything with new mounts the vibrations will be slightly worse, as the new mounts will be less flexible than the older worn mounts.
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Old 09-09-2007, 12:10 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huffer View Post
I seriously doubt it's the mount unless it's shaking the entire car - it's simply a symptom of an older car and the tranny probably not being new etc.
It's not the tranny itself because I just got a brand new tranny about 1500 miles ago and it's always vibrated.
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Old 09-09-2007, 02:21 PM   #13
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when an auto is in "d" its going to be under a small amount of load so it will shake more than it being in neutral. no matter the age or condition of the tranny.
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Old 09-09-2007, 02:22 PM   #14
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mine also shakes but not bad.
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Old 10-19-2007, 02:13 PM   #15
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Now I have the same problem, but someone told be it was the axles because installed new one, but I am going to change the fuel filter and plugs and wire this weekend when I install new inner and outer tie rods.
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Old 10-19-2007, 02:35 PM   #16
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its not tranny mounts cause in my old BD my tranny mount ripped and the car vibrated the same way when stopped at a light but at higher speeds vibration was so bad it was basically undrivable past 65mph although changing old mount will help somewhat. if you dont want to go trough all the trouble of spending 96 bucks at the stealership you can buy an insert for like 40 i think i dont remember who sells them but there is a polyurethane insert that will stiffen up existing mount. and plugs and wires also help. (NGK FTW)
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Old 10-19-2007, 06:42 PM   #17
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Update: My problem has stopped. I think it was because my car sat in front of my house for about a month, and it wasn't getting driven.
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Old 10-20-2007, 04:05 PM   #18
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Update:

After boasting about how my 'beater' Legacy had stopped vibrating after changing plugs, wires, having the transmission 'flushed', replacing the fuel filter, and having used a few treatments of "Chevron's Techron" fuel system cleaner, it has started doing it again some. Its not enough that you really notice things visibly shaking, but I do feel it.

My guess is that when the A/C is on the additional load of the compressor helps to smooth out the vibrations, but now that its fall and generally cool enough to not require the use of the air conditioner, the vibrations have returned some what.
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Old 10-20-2007, 04:18 PM   #19
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This is normal behaviour for a boxer engine! Slight variations in ignition consistency at lower RPMs (especially with aging coils, wires and plugs) cause this shaking. Even with brand-new everything the car will do this. Add deteriorating engine / transmission mounts to the equation and you find that (1) the mounts aren't absorbing the vibrations as effectively due to aging rubber and (2) the engine / transmission are allowed to move further. This means that the heavy bits have more momentum (they move faster and further) and also are slowed down in considerably less space than with healthy mounts. This means, simply, that old engine / tranny mounts cause the engine and tranny to transmit higher-amplitude shocks to the frame of the car. You interpret this as "more / bigger vibrations".

-Matt
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Old 10-21-2007, 12:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesboydamnit View Post
This is normal behaviour for a boxer engine! Slight variations in ignition consistency at lower RPMs (especially with aging coils, wires and plugs) cause this shaking. Even with brand-new everything the car will do this. Add deteriorating engine / transmission mounts to the equation and you find that (1) the mounts aren't absorbing the vibrations as effectively due to aging rubber and (2) the engine / transmission are allowed to move further. This means that the heavy bits have more momentum (they move faster and further) and also are slowed down in considerably less space than with healthy mounts. This means, simply, that old engine / tranny mounts cause the engine and tranny to transmit higher-amplitude shocks to the frame of the car. You interpret this as "more / bigger vibrations".

-Matt
I going to check my tranny mounts but I have a new coil. The thing with my vibration only started after I had used tranny put in with new axles, coil, wheel bearing put in. So to say it is normal is far from a correct assumption. I have 163K on my 97 LGT and it only started doing it when I installed those items.
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Old 10-22-2007, 01:53 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cincy_Machine View Post
I going to check my tranny mounts but I have a new coil. The thing with my vibration only started after I had used tranny put in with new axles, coil, wheel bearing put in. So to say it is normal is far from a correct assumption. I have 163K on my 97 LGT and it only started doing it when I installed those items.
Whoever told you it had anything to do with your axles should get a swift kick in the... knees. If the vehicle is not moving, axles have NOTHING to do with vibration.

My old transmission used to do this a lot. Since the engine IS under load, but the torque convertor is just allowing it to rotate, there is always going to be some slight vibration, however, with the car in like-new condition you normally can't feel it. I replaced trans mounts and it didn't help. My final solution: 5mt swap

But seriously, like others have said, keep the car in park, with the hood open check for excessive engine vibration/movement. You can also rev the motor a little at the TB to check for movement. If there is excessive play, replace mounts. Otherwise go through all the normal maintenance items to make sure the motor is running in top shape.

I notice people talking a lot about this with older cars... What about valve adjustment (shimming)? On a motor with 150-200K, shouldn't the lifters be adjusted to compensate for wear, or at least checked? Anyone with the head gasket problem has likely had this done (not me though, I'm cheap!) but those without it probably haven't ever been into the top end...
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Old 10-22-2007, 02:18 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by fastenova View Post
I notice people talking a lot about this with older cars... What about valve adjustment (shimming)? On a motor with 150-200K, shouldn't the lifters be adjusted to compensate for wear, or at least checked? Anyone with the head gasket problem has likely had this done (not me though, I'm cheap!) but those without it probably haven't ever been into the top end...
The 97+ cars should. The older EJ22s had Hydraulic lash adjusters to prevent the need for shimming, but the newer cars have solid lifters and I think it's recommended that you get them adjusted every 100k or something like that.
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Old 10-23-2007, 03:50 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cincy_Machine View Post
I going to check my tranny mounts but I have a new coil. The thing with my vibration only started after I had used tranny put in with new axles, coil, wheel bearing put in. So to say it is normal is far from a correct assumption. I have 163K on my 97 LGT and it only started doing it when I installed those items.
Still there after check all pugs and wire, tranny mounts, replaced fuel and air filter and PCV. The LGT had a valve adjustment at 108K
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