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Old 08-12-2011, 08:05 PM   #2426
Kostamojen
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Got the shifter back from the machine shop and installed today. Works good, but in the photos thats in FIRST gear... So I probably need a new lever made or this one modified so its in a proper position:




Also got the front hood emblem installed:

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Old 08-13-2011, 09:54 AM   #2427
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So clean.
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Old 08-13-2011, 10:37 AM   #2428
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boy that emblem just looks awesome on that paintjob.
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Old 08-13-2011, 03:26 PM   #2429
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I need help figuring this out...

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Old 08-14-2011, 08:17 PM   #2430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
Oh, and where the heck does the negative terminal lead to???

Negative is grounded to the body and make sure you have a ground strap from the motor to the body or else all your cables will act as the ground and fry.
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Old 08-14-2011, 08:44 PM   #2431
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I added a strap to the body from the engine. I saw the car had one originally so I put a new one on. I also attached the negative to the body and engine, which is supposedly correct...

I do really really need to know which wire to use to connect my MSD's "switched source" to!!!
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Old 08-14-2011, 09:38 PM   #2432
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Old 08-14-2011, 11:44 PM   #2433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
Tachometer 1 wire goes to the + terminal of the ignition coil and the other on the - terminal and the other one goes to the instrument cluster lighting circuit.
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Old 08-15-2011, 02:02 AM   #2434
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Considering both of the ignition coil wires go straight to the MSD... How would that work?
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Old 08-15-2011, 02:35 AM   #2435
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Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
Considering both of the ignition coil wires go straight to the MSD... How would that work?
You just connect the tach to both those wires from the coil. The MSD I believe only amplifies the voltage of the stock coil.
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Old 08-16-2011, 08:23 PM   #2436
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Alright, I just tested out the wiring I have in there now... Its all plugged in minus the horn, rad fan, and tachometer.

Things that worked perfectly:

Blower motor (felt air the cab, woot!)
Washer motor
Wipers
Starter
Headlights
Roll connector/turn signal stalk did its job.

Things that didn't work very well:

Front right blinker didn't blink well, probably the bulb but not sure.
Rear tail lights didn't go on when the headlights went on.
Side blinkers (all 4, 2 on the hood 2 on the trunk) never did anything.
Rear license plate light didn't do anything.
Fuel pump was damn loud (probably due to no fuel?)

Serious problems:

That stupid "red light" switch light thingy on the left of the steering wheel was on ALL THE TIME even if the key was out of the ignition! It got REAL hot and the "switch" didn't seem to do anything...


Anyway, pretty good test I thought, but I have some serious wiring issues with the lights. I have no clue how to figure it out either...

When I get my radiator here soon from USPS, I can get that installed then test the motor with fuel and coolant in it

Last edited by Kostamojen; 08-16-2011 at 09:17 PM.
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Old 08-16-2011, 09:55 PM   #2437
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Can't get the horns to work either. I was testing out the wiring with the stock horns and stock wheel that I know work, and nothing.

Also, correction on the wiper operation... It doesn't like the "high" setting. Works just fine on the first setting, but on high it just slows down or stops.
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Old 08-16-2011, 10:29 PM   #2438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
You get an F for not doing your homework!

No seriously, I posted photos of the internals with the camshaft a few pages back.
HA!, you're right... I must've missed that picture, and earlier, I was going, "hmmm, any moment, there's going to be a timing belt.. DOH! Any who, carry on and WOW, this car is looking amazing!


Oh and on the tach question, two wires are probably for the back light of the tach and the third is most likely just the signal wire for the coil. :d *just noticed GuamSTi's post... YAY, so there's two votes!
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:24 PM   #2439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
Can't get the horns to work either. I was testing out the wiring with the stock horns and stock wheel that I know work, and nothing.

Also, correction on the wiper operation... It doesn't like the "high" setting. Works just fine on the first setting, but on high it just slows down or stops.
You've got the relays wired correctly I assume? Without the relays, those horns won't work right, if at all.

Could be a dirty or worn wiper switch, my car is only 15 years old and still it didn't like some of the wiper settings. I drenched it in contact cleaner for a considerable improvement, but it still doesn't always work at the endpoints of the variable speed adjuster.
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Old 08-16-2011, 11:53 PM   #2440
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I tested different bulbs in the right front corner light, and now it isn't working at all :|

Also, while doing that testing, the side marker lights all turned on as they should. BUT, after 30 seconds, they went off and I can't get the back on!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mechanizeddeath View Post
You've got the relays wired correctly I assume? Without the relays, those horns won't work right, if at all.

Could be a dirty or worn wiper switch, my car is only 15 years old and still it didn't like some of the wiper settings. I drenched it in contact cleaner for a considerable improvement, but it still doesn't always work at the endpoints of the variable speed adjuster.
I tested it both with the hellas and with the stock horns, both using the original steering wheel. Didn't work at all. If I actually knew anything, I could rig up some kind of switch to make sure its working and not something else...

The wiper switch is BRAND NEW. Seriously, its an NOS OEM switch I got off ebay. Its in MUCH better shape than my original one.
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Old 08-17-2011, 01:56 AM   #2441
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sent you an e-mail
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Old 08-17-2011, 03:39 AM   #2442
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What a piece of junk!
Oh wait, I was looking at my car.

Fantastic restoration. You should be proud man.
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Old 08-17-2011, 04:52 PM   #2443
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OK, so I was fiddling with the car again and discovered something.

If I put the key in the ignition, the side marker lights and tail lights all come on. Also, the front right corner light works too when I do this.

I think I screwed up something trying to remove the interior dome light and door switch and I'm not sure how to fix it. It has to do with the key ignition switch since thats obviously whats completing the circuit I guess.
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Old 08-17-2011, 06:51 PM   #2444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
I tested different bulbs in the right front corner light, and now it isn't working at all :|

Also, while doing that testing, the side marker lights all turned on as they should. BUT, after 30 seconds, they went off and I can't get the back on!

I tested it both with the hellas and with the stock horns, both using the original steering wheel. Didn't work at all. If I actually knew anything, I could rig up some kind of switch to make sure its working and not something else...

The wiper switch is BRAND NEW. Seriously, its an NOS OEM switch I got off ebay. Its in MUCH better shape than my original one.
Ah, I wasn't sure if you were reusing the old switch or not. I suppose there's a chance that the NOS has some corrosion just from sitting around, so you may want to check it with a multimeter.

30 seconds and then nothing gives me the impression that something melted. But now I see the post that it works with the key in the ignition. Could this 30 second delay be some sort of battery drain protection circuit? I wouldn't think a vehicle this old would have something like that, but I'm just throwing out ideas.

I'm far from an expert at this kind of stuff, but I've wired some emergency vehicle lighting (firefighter personal vehicles) as well as countless car stereos and one animal house horn. My "problem" is that anything I wire up tends to work perfectly the first time, so my troubleshooting experience is extremely limited.

I wish I could help more. Electrical gremlins are very annoying.

Last edited by mechanizeddeath; 08-17-2011 at 06:58 PM. Reason: Saw newer post
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:33 PM   #2445
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That 30 second issue I think was when I pulled out the key

The problem with the lights going on with they key in the ignition is something I did for sure. There was a wire that went to the interior lights on a separate strand of lights from the main or rear harness. I traced everything and figured out those wires went into the black wire on the key switch so I taped it and basically completed the circuit I guess. I used the wiring diagram to figure that out.

But now, if I take that wire and plug it into the key wire bypassing the key switch, those corner lights and tail lights come on without the key even in the ignition. So basically thats a live wire (don't know the correct term) that I connected to and I presume I have to find another wire to connect to.

Also, I'm trying to figure out why the passenger side corner light has issues. I thought there might be an issue between the front driver and front passenger corner lights so I unwrapped the front harness just now and inspected everything. I didn't see anything wrong with the wires or anything wrong with the connectors, I even added some dialectic grease and nothing changed.

Basically the passenger side is either dim or off when it should be on or blinking. I even swapped the connectors and it stayed the same, so its not the bulbs or connectors its something else.

I don't have any electrical equipment either, all I have is one of those universal wire cutter/stripper tools, a 50 year old solder gun and some electrical tape. I've bought various connectors while I've been doing this of course, but otherwise I don't have the complicated stuff or skills required to figure out these gremlins
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Old 08-17-2011, 07:54 PM   #2446
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I wish you weren't so far away i would be glad to help you with your wiring problems; im well versed in old wiring gremlins.

You should get you a multimeter and check to see what kind of voltage the passenger side corner light is putting out. If it checks out ok, then i would check to see if there is alot of resistance in the wire by checking the ohms with the multimeter. They should be around 3-5 ohms maybe even less with the old wiring.

The source for the running lights and taillights should all be coming from a switched source meaning when the key is turned on then powered is supplied.

It sounds as if you wired the lights to a constant power source.

Could you better explain what black power your talking about and how exactly you completed the circuit.

Also what exactly did you do with the dome light wiring, did you remove the wires for it or tuck them away.

Please let me know if any of this helps.
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:36 PM   #2447
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Yes, a multimeter is incredibly useful for this kind of work! You don't have to drop big bucks on a Fluke or anything like that, I bought a cheap Radio Shack DMM about 15 years ago and I still use it today. You'll not only be able to check voltages with it, but also measure resistance and check continuity. I didn't know you were doing all this without one, the fact that you've made it this far is impressive to say the least!

Used carefully the old soldering gun is probably fine, but if it has excessive power it can be very easy to damage insulation or plastic connectors. I prefer to use low/medium wattage irons most of the time, the work goes slower but there's less chance of error.

I'd also suggest using heat shrink tubing in place of the electrical tape, it stays on better and looks a lot nicer.

Last edited by mechanizeddeath; 08-17-2011 at 09:10 PM.
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Old 08-17-2011, 09:17 PM   #2448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 7m-gtte View Post
The source for the running lights and taillights should all be coming from a switched source meaning when the key is turned on then powered is supplied.

It sounds as if you wired the lights to a constant power source.

Could you better explain what black power your talking about and how exactly you completed the circuit?

Also what exactly did you do with the dome light wiring, did you remove the wires for it or tuck them away?
Yes, it does seem like its a constant power source. The reason why I attached the "black" wire to the same spot I cut off the dome wiring from was because I ASSUMED it was where it was supposed to go since all those wires for the lighting were just being removed and I still had to complete the connection. It appears as though its a constant power source instead.

You can see the dome light/rear view mirror light wiring and door switch wiring in this photo:




They go up into the roof area from the left side of the driver side footwell. There is a black wire that goes to the door switch inside the panel on the left. That BIG connector is where all the wiring connected to at one spot, which is where I cut it to remove it.

That blue buzzer thing, the green wire that goes to it is now going straight to the red wire on the key connection bypassing the buzzer since I took that out, and the red wire going to the buzzer is the wire that I traced going back to the dome light wires which was odd since it doesn't correspond to any of the diagrams.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mechanizeddeath View Post
I didn't know you were doing all this without one, the fact that you've made it this far is impressive to say the least!

Used carefully the old soldering gun is probably fine, but if it has excessive power it can be very easy to damage insulation or plastic connectors. I prefer to use low wattage irons most of the time, the work goes slower but there's more room for error.

I'd also suggest using heat shrink tubing in place of the electrical tape, it stays on better and looks a lot nicer.
All I've done so far is plug in the MSD (easy), remove the wires for the coil (also easy, it was in-line in a larger wire which I just cut off and re-attached), removed the dome/interior/door switch wiring, and changed the alternator wiring (still not certain I did that correct either). Everything else was just plugging in the old harness and fixing anything wrong with it.

I've damaged the crap out of plastic connectors, but I just wrap them with tape and move on. Like I said, I nave no idea what I'm doing.... I don't even have a heat gun for the shrink tubing (which I have a lot of, since its so cheap at harbor freight). I've been using a BBQ lighter.
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:28 PM   #2449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
All I've done so far is plug in the MSD (easy), remove the wires for the coil (also easy, it was in-line in a larger wire which I just cut off and re-attached), removed the dome/interior/door switch wiring, and changed the alternator wiring (still not certain I did that correct either). Everything else was just plugging in the old harness and fixing anything wrong with it.

I've damaged the crap out of plastic connectors, but I just wrap them with tape and move on. Like I said, I nave no idea what I'm doing.... I don't even have a heat gun for the shrink tubing (which I have a lot of, since its so cheap at harbor freight). I've been using a BBQ lighter.
I wouldn't worry too much about the connectors, they're mostly there to make both initial assembly and future servicing easier, and with this project as it is you needn't be worried about that or keeping things authentic and showroom stock. As long as the connection is solid both mechanically and electrically, you're set.

I don't use a heat gun either, or even a lighter. In fact most of the time I use the fat part of a soldering iron barrel. It puts out enough heat to shrink the tubing but far to little to harm the insulation. It's a little awkward on larger bundles but for a few wires or less it works fine.

Anyway, if I'm reading this right it sounds like you spliced into the power wire for the dome light system to power the exterior lights? Or am I misreading the whole thing? Trying to figure out wiring can be confusing, especially from descriptions. The dome light would be a constant 12v source, controlled by the door switches.

Like 7m-gtte said, in addition to a 12v constant source, you'll have another 12v source that depends on having the key inserted and the switch in the "on" or running position. It sounds like both the switched and unswitched sources are connected now, which would mean that the switch is bypassed entirely.

It could also be that I've been studying this too long and managed to thoroughly confuse myself.
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Old 08-17-2011, 11:57 PM   #2450
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Well the door switch is gone, which I guess makes it a constant source now? So basically it sounds like I just need to find a switched source instead.
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