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Old 09-23-2007, 07:53 PM   #1
dogfrndnew
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Default Brembo Caliper mounting threads slightly stripped what to do?

Well, I was taking off the brakes today to replace the rotors and pads and it looks like one of the PO's had a gorilla put the mounting bolts in. The top one was tight, but came out fine. The bottom one appears to have taken about half a thread in the middle of the caliper with it. I am off to find a replacement bolt now, but I am unsure what to do about the caliper. I ran the threads with the good bolt from the top and it threaded right through. I looked up the torque (114 is insane!!!) and using the good bolt bolted the caliper back on and ran it to 80ft. lbs(the limit of my torque wrench - I will try to borrow one tomorrow) and then gave it a bit more and it held. So the question is, if I can either clean the threads on the bolt or get a different bolt at the auto parts store, do I need to worry about it? It is tempting to torque them down and see if they hold... What do you guys think? I am afraid of doing more damage if I try to get a helio coil(which I've never even seen). What does a Brembo run from Subaru? Are they usually available or is the car toast for a long time? Thanks in Advance.
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:15 PM   #2
boost junkie
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This is a common occurence, it's happened to me twice (and I always use a torque wrench). I used Helicoil in the damaged threads and it worked perfectly. It's very easy to use, just make sure you drill and tap the hole perfectly straight.
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:31 PM   #3
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So your vote would beto go ahead and drill it out? Is this something you can do while it is on the car? If not can I do it with a regular drill and bench? Ihave a vice, but it is probably not big enough for the whole caliper and it would chew it up I think anyway? Also, on heli-coil website the mention a variety of types ie standard, screw lock, tangless and thread repair kit. Any idea what you bought? Did you have to order it or are they carried in auto parts stores? I went to advanced auto tonight and they had about 4 sizes just none as big as I needed. By the way I think the bolt is m12x1.50 does that agree with what you bought? I am calling Subaru tomorrow to find out whether they have a bolt and also what the rotors run if nec. and if they are avail. Thanks for your help. I wanted to go to my first subie meet the 29th, but now the chances are starting to look dim.
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:34 PM   #4
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As an addendum, I was thinking about it and if I have the rotor off and bolt the top bolt in, wouldn't it hold it tight and straight enough to drill for the helicoil?
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:40 PM   #5
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Yes the thread pitch is M12x1.5 and I got the kit at NAPA. Call around to some local auto parts stores and see if they have it in stock, it shouldn't be too hard to find. I got the thread repair kit, which comes with a tap, 6 inserts, and the insert tool. You have to buy the drill bit on your own but it says what size to use on the package. You can do it with a hand drill, just get a friend to help you. One person hold the caliper steady (I used a block of wood underneath it to lean on) while the other drills. Just take your time and make SURE you are drilling straight. The aluminum is soft and you will go through it quickly. Same goes for tapping the threads, take your time and keep checking to make sure it's going in straight. As long as you are careful it's a piece of cake, only takes about 20 minutes.
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogfrndnew View Post
As an addendum, I was thinking about it and if I have the rotor off and bolt the top bolt in, wouldn't it hold it tight and straight enough to drill for the helicoil?
You could probably do that, although I think it's easier to get it straight with the caliper off the car.

EDIT: On second thought, no you can't. The hole you are drilling is larger than the opening in the caliper mounting bracket so you can't go through it. Take the caliper off the car and make sure you crimp or plug the brake line to prevent too much fluid from coming out and running the reservoir dry.
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:57 PM   #7
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Is it really tricky to get it straight w/o a drill press? I am a little frightened at this point since last night I parked a running car with squeaky brakes and after about an hour this afternoon have a $20k+ pile of junk in the garage. I am wondering whether I should just look into a machine shop or whether it can be done in my garage. I used to have Jeeps...not nearly as neat as the sti but not nearly as fragile either. :-)
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:59 PM   #8
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It's not that hard, I just stood over the caliper with a drill while my friend held it and eyeballed the drill bit to make sure it stayed straight. It would definitely be easier with a drill press but if you have a steady hand you can do it without. If you really feel uncomfortable doing it I imagine a shop wouldn't charge too much to drill and tap it for you.
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Old 09-24-2007, 12:19 AM   #9
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One final dumb question for the evening, Do I need to bleed all four brakes if I am only pulling the front one?
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Old 09-24-2007, 12:23 PM   #10
boost junkie
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Can't hurt...it's unlikely that air will work it's way into the other lines but it's worth the few dollars for another bottle of fluid to be sure.
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Old 09-24-2007, 12:52 PM   #11
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My threads are getting pretty trashed too. I may be doing this soon. Thanks for the info Dan.
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Old 09-24-2007, 01:18 PM   #12
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No problem Subaru was dumb to use mild steel bolts for an aluminum caliper since they tend to fuse together. Higher end companies like Porsche use specially treated caliper bolts to prevent them from seizing in there. I'm actually tempted to go with something other than stock bolts but at this point two of my mounting points have Helicoil so I might as well just wait until the others let go and Helicoil all of them. It's a whole lot stronger than the stock threads anyways.
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Old 09-24-2007, 02:27 PM   #13
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The Auto parts store will have the Helicoil this afternoon. I need to get another bolt since the threads on mine have all that pesky aluminum in them. I guess the proper size/pitch and grade will be OK? All the subie dealers here in town don't carry the bolt. Also, does brand of brake fluid matter? I am in a tight space as far as the rear wheels go, so I would rather not drain/replace all the fluid in it now. I just need to get through the next two weeks. I have a meet on Saturday and a Dyno appointment to be tuned on the 5th. I know every talks up some blue stuff, but I'm thinking it's best to stay with something standard instead of mixing - Correct? Thanks for all your help. Finally, do I need to put some kind of antisieze on them if I am using these Helicoils?
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:14 PM   #14
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Yeah, crappy design. On honda's you bolt through the caliper into the cast iron spindle so, you never strip them out. At the very least they should have had thread inserts from the factory. A wire brush or thin screwdriver will get all that aluminum off the bolt. I'd use the stock bolt.
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Old 09-24-2007, 04:34 PM   #15
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Not on my RSX. It bolts up the same way as the Subaru setup.

Anti seize is your friend!!!! We also learned the hard way, but anti seize everything now.

Tony
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Old 09-24-2007, 05:22 PM   #16
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Well, I'm glad it does on my Civic then.
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Old 10-30-2007, 09:37 PM   #17
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When it comes to calipers always remember the anti seize unless you don't care.
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:35 PM   #18
z
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son of a beech! this happened to me today too

How much $$ is the helicoil kit?
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:58 PM   #19
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I know this thread is a little old but the same thing happened to me the other day. What a *****ty design. Helicoil seems like a good solution.
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Old 02-01-2008, 10:55 AM   #20
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Make sure you put antiseize on the threads next time and this will not be a problem again.

Tony
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Old 02-01-2008, 01:19 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Make sure you put antiseize on the threads next time and this will not be a problem again.

Tony

Yeah I will Im an antiseize fanatic, but the brakes were done by the previous owner.
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Old 02-01-2008, 01:20 PM   #22
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oops, double post.
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Old 02-14-2008, 11:02 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
Make sure you put antiseize on the threads next time and this will not be a problem again.

Tony
I heard that anti-seize messes up the torquing.... i.e. you'll overtorque it over what you set the torque wrench to.

Perhaps not enough to cause a problem.
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Old 02-15-2008, 09:46 AM   #24
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Yes, a lubricated fastener needs to be torqued less than a dry fastener to achieve the same fastener preload. A general rule of thumb is that Lubricated Torque x 1.3 = Dry Torque.

I just ordered the Brembo BBK with the STi calipers. I'm curious to see if the Brembo installation instructions call for anti-seize on these fasteners.
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Old 03-01-2009, 01:12 AM   #25
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sorry to bump 1 year old thread.

For those who used helicoil, how much did kit & parts cost you and what size drill bit did you need? I want to double check everything before get started on thread repair.
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