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Old 10-02-2007, 10:47 AM   #1
IllNastyImpreza
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Default Easy breakin or Balls to the wall ??

ok so I should have my car up and running, and even rolling by next week

I'm running it N/A for the first 1500 mi or so to break in the engine correctly...


Now I can't decide wether to go ALL OUT redline from the start ( to seat the ring)

or go slow, and take it easy...

whata u guys think ?

I have heard both sides of the storry, and would like to see how the majority of SUBARU engines have been broken in...
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Old 10-02-2007, 12:33 PM   #2
Master2192
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Most people break it in easy, I prefer to run it hard but not redline right off the bat. But I'd have it at redline by 20 miles or so, high load and high vacuum decel .
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Old 10-02-2007, 12:52 PM   #3
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you will get 1000 different answers and techniques as to what is "best"...I know a guy who doesn't oil the motor short of assembly lube and will run a fresh motor for 5 seconds WOt and cut it off add oil and send it down the track...
anyhow, I like getting the bugs out (leaks, missed sensors etc...), cams broken in, etc...taking it easy for the first few miles/minutes to make sure all is well...then give it a little grunt tune on the dyno (50% throttle nor more than 4k rpm) and get the heat in the motor to seat the rings.

Last edited by Homemade WRX; 10-02-2007 at 04:06 PM.
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Old 10-02-2007, 01:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
...I know a guy who doesn't oil the motor short of assembly lube and will run a fresh motor for 5 seconds WOt and cut it off add oil and send it down the track...
And I thought I'd heard it all...
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Old 10-02-2007, 01:14 PM   #5
Jeremy@Cobb
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Everyone has there own opinion on the matter.
The proper way to break an engine in also has alot to do with the following.
- Types of rings used (material, and tension).
- Cylinder trueness.
- Finish hone on cylinder.

- J.
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Old 10-02-2007, 02:56 PM   #6
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I dont understand why you would break in a car that will be boosted without the turbo.
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:13 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxwhat
I dont understand why you would break in a car that will be boosted without the turbo.
especially a low compression motor, the rings need pressure to seal. And during break in you want the rings to seal against their maximum travel, which will happen at redline at the highest connecting rod stretch on the exhaust stroke.

also what the cobb guy stated.
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxwhat View Post
I dont understand why you would break in a car that will be boosted without the turbo.
I was under the impression that boost was a negative on the engine for the first 1500 miles or so...

am I wrong ???
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Old 10-02-2007, 03:51 PM   #9
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Old 10-02-2007, 04:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flycaster View Post
And I thought I'd heard it all...
it does work and his motors will last him a whole drag season...
its a 9 sec NA carmen gia
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Old 10-02-2007, 04:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homemade WRX View Post
...its a 9 sec NA carmen gia
A 9 second Karman??? Juheesus, that's almost rude.

Now you've really blown my mind... Does it still have the OEM 1.6L v-dub motor in it?
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Old 10-02-2007, 04:49 PM   #12
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I think it is nearly impossible to break in a turbo engine "NA". There is a WG spring ya know. Typically it is set to 9 PSI (on the VF and TD04 turbos at least).
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:32 PM   #13
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There's also an throttle pedal, which, when used properly, will cause the car not to exceed 0psi.
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Old 10-02-2007, 09:12 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy@Cobb View Post
Everyone has there own opinion on the matter.
The proper way to break an engine in also has alot to do with the following.
- Types of rings used (material, and tension).
- Cylinder trueness.
- Finish hone on cylinder.

- J.
Exactly....
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Old 10-02-2007, 09:37 PM   #15
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:12 PM   #16
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ok... car has 600 miles on her, but since the snow has hit...she is now sleeping for the winter...

any good tests or whatnot that I should do while she is resting for the winter ?

compression test? .... and btw...what is a leakdown test ???
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Old 12-11-2007, 12:12 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IllNastyImpreza View Post
and btw...what is a leakdown test ???
maybe i'm being a gigantic ass, but i don't think anybody should rebuild their own engine and not know what a leakdown test is... unless of course you're kidding... are you kidding?

edit: basically, it is a test to see how much pressure is leaking out of the combustion chamber and where it is leaking from. If it "leaks down" enough you can here it. Where you hear it can tell you ABOUT where it's leaking from. ie: intake seats = you'll hear it in the throttle body, exhaust valve seats you'll hear it in the exhaust, and rings you'll hear it in the crank case/breather

This requires a stethoscope and a leakdown gauge set. Neither of which are very expensive.

Homemadewrx, i know you've got more input on this for him. Please expound, for i am hammered

Last edited by wrxhard; 12-11-2007 at 12:17 AM.
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Old 12-11-2007, 01:45 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxhard View Post
Homemadewrx, i know you've got more input on this for him. Please expound, for i am hammered
ROFL...funny you right that, as I just got home from the bar too...I'll post on the flipside
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Old 12-11-2007, 04:49 AM   #19
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You only get one chance to run in a new engine and once the bores are glazed that's it.

All these "easy" run ins that people talk about are not that good for the longevity of the engine. Most fail to bed the rings in correctly, which eventually leads to premature engine failure.

Read THIS. It sums things up well.

It is all about loading the engine up in stages without reving it too high
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Old 12-11-2007, 09:42 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxsti.l View Post
You only get one chance to run in a new engine and once the bores are glazed that's it.

All these "easy" run ins that people talk about are not that good for the longevity of the engine. Most fail to bed the rings in correctly, which eventually leads to premature engine failure.

Read THIS. It sums things up well.

It is all about loading the engine up in stages without reving it too high

Like we all havent seen that...I dont agree with everything there.
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Old 12-12-2007, 09:54 AM   #21
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newer engines have harder cyl walls or plating(especially nikasil and similar newer compounds) and require more compression and vaccuum to seat the rings and start wearing away the cross hatching. otherwise the cross hatch stays and the rings aren't seated/stretched enough to seal fully or make full compression as intended.

and the dino vs synthetic oil becomes part of the mix right here. im not going to touch it tho. theres so much both ways as far as assy lube vs oil vs synth vs man juice vs snake oil vs.....

--keith
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Old 12-14-2007, 12:27 PM   #22
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I have broken engines in really easy and really hard. In the recent years I have been breaking them in on the dyno with hard pulls. Those have been by far the strongest best sealing ones. Usually the car sees less then 100 hp for when it is idling and then it goes over 600 on the dyno right off the bat.
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Old 12-14-2007, 05:25 PM   #23
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boosted engines need to be broken in on boost!

just run a td04 on that thing and run it off wastegate pressure. not sure what afr's are ideal for break in though...
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Old 12-14-2007, 05:52 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mxpunk View Post
boosted engines need to be broken in on boost!
Totally agree!! Boost that sucker now and it'll last longer for you!
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