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Old 10-14-2007, 01:08 PM   #1
Brock31
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Default Castrol Syvtec 5W40 UOA

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Last edited by Brock31; 10-14-2007 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 10-14-2007, 02:31 PM   #2
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Old 10-14-2007, 08:57 PM   #3
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Good call. I Forgot to do that
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Old 10-15-2007, 06:04 PM   #4
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Your UOA looks decent. 3500 miles is a very short interval for a synthetic oil IMO. (Despite the new 2008 Severe Condition 3750 mile OCI...)

Not pleased with the viscosity already being a 30 weight. I'm glad Blackstone now lists the cSt number! But I thought a 40 weight was 12.5-16.29 cSt @ 100c...?
And +1 to check the air filtration.
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Old 10-15-2007, 09:18 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FD777 View Post
Not pleased with the viscosity already being a 30 weight. I'm glad Blackstone now lists the cSt number! But I thought a 40 weight was 12.5-16.29 cSt @ 100c...?
And +1 to check the air filtration.
There have been a couple of xW40 Syntec UOA's posted here lately and the viscosity was on the low side. Seems that GC stays in grade much better than American Castrol.

Wow, they finally viscosity as cst! I no longer need to go look up the conversion!

-Dennis

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Old 10-16-2007, 08:00 AM   #6
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you must be using K&N air filter..
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:01 AM   #7
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^^^
Nope. OEM filter bought at dealer and was replaced about 2 months ago.
I've looked for leaks around the filter from bad sealing and have found none.

I realize that 3500 miles was a short interval, but due to the heat we experienced here combined with a couple of autox days, I wanted to err. on the safe side. As I could see that the oil had sheared down from 74 @ 40* and from 14 to 11.4 @100* it seems like around 4K miles is adequate for me.

Beleive me, if I could find GC I would use it
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:22 AM   #8
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Your wear metals are low so that's a good thing. Especially 0 for the lead!

-Dennis
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Old 10-16-2007, 12:09 PM   #9
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I can't see the image anymore (maybe it's being blocked for me), but I think I recall it being a decent-looking report. So, assuming that's the case, and with the oil now being a mid-30 weight, what's the bad part about the oil shearing?
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Old 10-16-2007, 01:15 PM   #10
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I can't see the image anymore (maybe it's being blocked for me), but I think I recall it being a decent-looking report. So, assuming that's the case, and with the oil now being a mid-30 weight, what's the bad part about the oil shearing?
With my novice understanding, nothing is bad. But it is nice when an oil stays in grade.

I just wonder, did the designers intentionally make the oil this way?
Yes/Don't Care - Alright, no problem.
No - Hmm... not good? Will this lead to other problems?
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Old 10-16-2007, 04:56 PM   #11
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Will this lead to other problems?
That's the magic question! If wear metals are normal but viscosity is low, is there a possibility of bearing protection being compromised?

There have been folks in the 2.0L forum that have claimed they had uoa's with low wear and still spun a bearing. I'm sure there are many factors in those cases (state of tune, quality of fuel, detonation, cooling, driving conditions, etc.), but could an oil with a thicker viscosity (and higher film strength) help to prevent a problem like a spun bearing? I'm sure it's less of an issue when it's a 40 grade shearing to a 30 grade than a 30 shearing to a 20.

Why take a chance IMO? What have you got to lose by using an oil that resists shearing out of grade? .5% less mpg's?

-Dennis
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Old 10-16-2007, 05:42 PM   #12
Brock31
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FWIW..knowing that our cars don't like thin oil (i.e. M1) I started using castrol syntec 5w40 a while back. I can't find GC anywhere. From research I had done on BITOG I found that this oil did in fact shear from its 40 weight down to mid and even low 30 weight. My thought process was that, at least this is better than using mobil 5 or 10w 30 that shears down to a 20wt. With the OCI that I adhere to, there will be adequate amounts of additive left in the oil at a decent weight to provide my engine at least somewhat of a higher degree of protection from oil related bearing failure. I don't plan on going 6 or 7 k miles between oil changes.
Am i completely confused
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FD777 View Post
With my novice understanding, nothing is bad. But it is nice when an oil stays in grade.

I just wonder, did the designers intentionally make the oil this way?
Yes/Don't Care - Alright, no problem.
No - Hmm... not good? Will this lead to other problems?
I agree and prefer an oil that stays in grade. As to your questions, It is clear that the oil manufacturers know that their products shear. That's an excellent way to meet ILSAC energy conserving requirements since the reference oil is a PAO. It is not clear that any given powertrain engineer has a clue about motor oil properties and complexities, even if the OEMs as a body do. So, about the designers of the oil building it this way on purpose: quite probably IMO. In any event there's nothing in PCMO specs that precludes them building it this way and it allows them to meet the energy conservation portion of the specs. Part 2 of your question is back to the engineers and whether they individually know a bunch about tribology or not (not likely IMO).
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Old 10-17-2007, 03:54 AM   #14
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for what its worth i have been using conventional rotella T 15w40 in my '02 wrx for a while and my UOAs look really similar to yours (i posted it in another thread here) if you are thinking of switching the oil you use, i suggest you consider rotella T 15w40

here's why i think so:

1) my UOA and your UOA have very similar wear metal #s so that suggests the level of protection is similar
2) rotella T did not shear down (SUS @210F was around 78 i believe) i took the car to thunderhill for a lapping day and i drive hard in the mountains frequently
3) rotella T is around $2.72/qt versus around $6 for a synthetic.. seems like in this case the extra $ spent isn't necessarily getting better protection

that said i finally got my hands on some 'german castrol' 0w30 and i will be putting that in my car soon for winter. i'll post up a UOA when i get one..
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