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Old 10-14-2007, 06:21 PM   #1
bry593
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Member#: 161594
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
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1972 Datsun 240Z V8
Can-am White

Question 94 legacy, no start, new timing belt??? help!!!

1994 legacy 2.2, 275k miles, just put a new timing belt on.... damn thing won't start.

has new plugs, which appear to be firing strong.... fuel injectors have voltage, can smell gas when you turn engine over with plug out. plenty of fuel pressure at fuel filter. timing marks are 12 0'clock all the way across (crank arrow, cam sprocket hash marks). checked cam and crank position sensors and resistance is between 1k and 4k ohms.....

gas is 6 mos old....

damn thing won't start.... any ideas?

hey, i can't believe how clean this car is for having 275k miles! last owners didn't treat it well, but it was one owner prior.... when i pulled the plugs, there was no oil residue... one bank was burning leaner than the other, evident by tan white, and grey black.... i think some fuel injection cleaner will help to balance the fuel/air mix. very few oil leaks for a car of this mileage. car is made by fuji heavy industries, and appears to be near bullet proof for a lightweight vehicle.

appreciate the input,
-bry
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Last edited by bry593; 10-15-2007 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 10-14-2007, 07:31 PM   #2
Thug
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Do you have spark at every plug wire?
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Old 10-14-2007, 08:12 PM   #3
Patrick Olsen
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i agree
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Old 10-14-2007, 10:58 PM   #4
bry593
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
i agree
ha! yes, rules are newbies have to make 3 response posts before starting a thread.... what's a guy to do...

no, i didn't check spark at all cylinders.... why? are you suggesting its only firing on one plug? what would cause that? oddly, i'm not getting any backfire... maybe the other plugs aren't firing....

other ideas? this is very frustrating as this car ran fine until it shed belt teeth. a non-interference motor, there should be no mechanical reason for this no-start condition.

btw, this is my first time working on subaru. i gotta say, it appears to be well built and it's very easy to work on. in fact, changing the cap, rotor and coil wire was a breeze.....

thanks,
-bry

Last edited by bry593; 10-14-2007 at 11:11 PM.
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Old 10-14-2007, 11:15 PM   #5
Patrick Olsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bry593 View Post
other ideas? this is very frustrating as this car ran fine until it shed belt teeth. a non-interference motor, there should be no mechanical reason for this no-start condition.
That was going to be my first question - was it running fine beforehand, and what prompted the belt change.

I'm used to having a coilpack, not a distributor. I presume the plug wires are properly routed? Despite the fact that the plug wire routing with a coilpack is a no-brainer, I managed to cross the 2 passenger side plug wires when I did my first engine swap earlier this year.

Other than that I have no ideas. Generally spark + fuel = BANG, so you should be good.
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Old 10-15-2007, 08:32 AM   #6
bry593
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update.... have spark at every cylinder.... plug wires routed correctly....

could my crank sprocket be out 180? i only saw one mark on the crank, an arrow which i have at 12 o'clock... the camshafts have a mark and an arrow.... the cam sprocket arrow is for valve adjustment, correct?

this is a friends car, and she is hassling me to get it going. i gotta say, so far it has me baffled....

-bry
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Old 10-15-2007, 07:31 PM   #7
bry593
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1972 Datsun 240Z V8
Can-am White

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nevermind, i got it....

bingo! decided to replace the cam and crank seals while i was steaming about the no-start condition.... guess what i saw when pulling the crank sprocket/reluctor assy? lots of friggin' grime, that's what.... however, upon cleaning the pulley in solvent.... what do i see? there's a hash mark on the second set of reluctor teeth! dammit!!! what the hell is the crank arrow for? anyway, yeah.... it's on the reluctor teeth.... there are three sets, 1 tooth + space + 2 teeth + space + 3 teeth..... it's on the 2 teeth set....

when changing the cam seals, it's difficult to get the old seal out. i "carefully" drilled a 7/64 hole in the "in-between" spot and slowly slid it out with a slide-hammer. on one bore journal, i scuffed the aluminum with the drill. always error toward the engine block aluminum, screwing up a hard cam shaft sucks! if the journal is not that bad, just take a rat-tail file and remove the burrs. for the new seals, i filled the area between the lips with grease, and then spread a thin film on the rubber o.d. (only use original subaru seals, they are rubber od). then i pushed them up flush using a block wood and my body weight. this will be sufficient to hold the seals in place, and will also make the seal lips ride on an un-worn portion of the shaft. before installing the seals, i cleaned the varnsh with carb cleaner solvent and q-tips (it appeared as tho i had grooves on the shafts before varnish removal).

i should take pics and do a write-up so this annoying thing is documented on the forum....

-bry

Last edited by bry593; 10-16-2007 at 01:25 PM.
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