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Old 12-11-2006, 09:29 AM   #101
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Wow, great pictures, really easy to see with the turbo inlet hose out of the way.
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Old 12-11-2006, 10:20 AM   #102
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I just fixed another leak yesterday for someone. Fixed one last year for him under the turbo inlet hose. This year it was leaking on the driver's side behind the AC compressor. Removed the AC compressor and replaced the hose without removing the manifold. Took about an hour.
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Old 12-17-2006, 11:15 PM   #103
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Just adding to this that I to have this exact same problem, but now I just blew a hole in a piston so I will probably fix this while I am transfering everything over to the new 2.5 block.
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Old 01-03-2008, 06:40 PM   #104
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Can the pictures of this be rehosted or something? I am haveing this raw fuel smell problem in a MY2002 WRX i just purchased this past summer. I also just filled up and i only got 12.5 mpg and i know it wasnt because of driving habits. I would really like to see the pictures so i can see if mine is spraying fuel out and i know which clamp to tightne to make this stop happening!
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Old 01-03-2008, 09:35 PM   #105
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yeah, mine did it at like 90k or so in a montana winter, I replaced them with an aftermarket fuel system
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Old 01-04-2008, 02:38 AM   #106
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I only have 54--- miles, do you think subaru will cover it??
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:35 PM   #107
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nope...
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Old 07-05-2010, 05:53 AM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turd_ferguson View Post
Here are a few pictures I took tonight. I fixed the problem with ~$2 in hose clamps and doubled up on them just to make sure . Mine was spraying (not dripping) fuel out of the the spot where the bottom arrow is.



Sorry to bump a two year old thread but I wanted to ask how this held up for you Mr. Ferguson? I need to fix this issue and will be changing my turbo inlet soon. Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-07-2015, 12:29 PM   #109
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Can't see the pictures :/ having the same problem
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Old 01-08-2015, 06:11 AM   #110
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Default Found Fuel Leak (Pics)

Seems like we're all having this issue this time of year especially in the north east with these older models.

I located my leak. Its in the location where the coolant tank is but beneath the turbo inlet. I can see drops of fuel in cold starts. After warm, it goes away.

Gonna pull the inlet and either replace the lines or tighten clamps whenever it gets warmer out.


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Last edited by danger1138; 01-08-2015 at 08:35 AM.
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Old 01-08-2015, 08:50 AM   #111
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Default Fuel leak

04 WRX. Completely rebuilt from the bottom up.

So it appears that I have the same fuel smell/leak coming from that general area.

Looked under the hood and used my nose to smell where it was coming from. As others have stated, it is in the same general location. I looked around that area and noticed that there was a film of fuel that has covered my turbo inlet and my IC piping. Also found a puddle sitting on top of the motor just under IM. With it being 6 degrees outside I felt the need to say Eff it and wait until it gets a little warmer outside before more investigating---> (I do not have a garage) So, everything points to this issue that has been posted multiple times about these hose clamps.

I would love to see those pictures to get more of a general idea as to what to look for in order to repair this issue. And if there are specific hose clamps or parts that were used for this fix could someone post them...

Last edited by chad042288; 01-08-2015 at 09:48 AM.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:59 AM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chad042288 View Post
04 WRX. Completely rebuilt from the bottom up.

So it appears that I have the same fuel smell/leak coming from that general area.

Looked under the hood and used my nose to smell where it was coming from. As others have stated, it is in the same general location. I looked around that area and noticed that there was a film of fuel that has covered my turbo inlet and my IC piping. Also found a puddle sitting on top of the motor just under IM. With it being 6 degrees outside I felt the need to say Eff it and wait until it gets a little warmer outside before more investigating---> (I do not have a garage) So, everything points to this issue that has been posted multiple times about these hose clamps.

I would love to see those pictures to get more of a general idea as to what to look for in order to repair this issue. And if there are specific hose clamps or parts that were used for this fix could someone post them...

You need 5/16 fuel line hose, if you want to replace the hose itself. You will also need fuel line clamps... NOT worm clamps.


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Old 01-08-2015, 03:22 PM   #113
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Thank you for the info danger1183.

Before I went and bought anything I did a tear down of that area with out taking off the IM just to look around. I just took off the piping for my FMIC that went from the TB to the next section. Took off the coolant tank that sits on the IM. The fuel line was directly behind that section of hose for the coolant coming out the bottom of the tank. I found that clamp that sits upside-down (Stupid Subaru Idea) and the one closer to the firewall that was right side up. Fortunately for me the upside-down clamp was not the culprit. It was the side that had the clamp facing a more favorable position. So with the help of an 18inch long phillips screwdriver i was able to tighten down the clamp just a little more and vualah!! No more leak. I let the car sit for about 2 hours or more and turned the key to "ON" and no fuel discharge coming from the line when cold starting.
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Old 01-08-2015, 05:20 PM   #114
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Oh, the memories...

I did a fix for this back in winter 03/04. In Fraser, CO, sometimes known as the coldest spot in the country. Unheated garage (a friend), one 60W trouble light, -20F outside.

Mine was dripping from the rear clamp, and spraying from the front one, resulting in a noticeable pool in the intake manifold. I tightened the rear one with a long phillips, same as you.

For the front one I used a small long nose vise grip to grab the end of the upside down screw...but after moving hoses/wiring out of the way there was enough flex in the clamp/hose that I couldn't swing the vise grip far enough to move the screw. I had to remove the position sensor for the secondary throttle valve shaft, and then I could get maybe 4-5 deg of movement on the screw with each grab of the vise grips. Got it as tight as I could, which was/is pretty much metal to metal on the two sides of the clamp.

Unfortunately, the sensor housing has a clock spring in it that went "sproing" when I pulled the housing off the manifold. So I didn't know how it was supposed to be indexed when replacing it. After considerable study of the relevant factory shop manual (I had the whole set with me) I decided that the default position of the valves would be closed, which told me how to index the spring - which was of course rotated under tension. I used a thin strip of steel from my tool roll to hold the spring in place, sliding it out at the last moment as I pushed the housing into place. Of course the odds of timing it exactly right so the housing would slide into place before the spring could sproing out of place when removing the steel strip were small to begin with, and Murphy, being Irish, was happy to be hanging out in the cold with me...

Whole job took ~6 hours, 'til maybe 4AM, but it worked. Drove back to my motel, and got up maybe 2 hours later to go to work.

The bad news is that I smell fuel again this winter. I was down in central OR before Thanksgiving, in minus temps, and sure enough it was back. This time I can't see any drip or spray, or any sign of liquid on the IM. Not sure what I'm going to do about it, since a real fix means removing the IM, and I'm not anxious to do that.

I had the engine out of the car a couple of winters ago, and put a slight tweak in the offending steel fuel line under the driver's rear of the IM, in an attempt to keep the hose from being tensioned by shrinking metal in the cold. Apparently either I didn't relax the tension on the leaking hose enough, or the hose/clamp combination is no longer capable of sealing at low temps.

Not sure what I'm going to do about this - other than the 2 fire extinguishers I've got in the car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chad042288 View Post
Thank you for the info danger1183.

Before I went and bought anything I did a tear down of that area with out taking off the IM just to look around. I just took off the piping for my FMIC that went from the TB to the next section. Took off the coolant tank that sits on the IM. The fuel line was directly behind that section of hose for the coolant coming out the bottom of the tank. I found that clamp that sits upside-down (Stupid Subaru Idea) and the one closer to the firewall that was right side up. Fortunately for me the upside-down clamp was not the culprit. It was the side that had the clamp facing a more favorable position. So with the help of an 18inch long phillips screwdriver i was able to tighten down the clamp just a little more and vualah!! No more leak. I let the car sit for about 2 hours or more and turned the key to "ON" and no fuel discharge coming from the line when cold starting.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:03 PM   #115
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Best answer is pull the intake. There are I think 6 of those little bastards under the intake.

My solution was remove intake apply thread locker and tighten.

It has been -36 to -20 for the last couple weeks and havent smelt anything.

Such a stupid design.
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Old 01-08-2015, 10:05 PM   #116
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Yeah. I don't understand why you would place one clamp accessible from the top and the other clamp upside down? It's almost as if these Subaru engineers purposely design these systems so you get irritated just to take it to a shop

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Old 01-09-2015, 09:22 AM   #117
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Best solution is to ditch the ****ty factory setup and get fuel rails. Even when you do the "fix" it happens again.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:02 PM   #118
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Originally Posted by JWX View Post
Best solution is to ditch the ****ty factory setup and get fuel rails. Even when you do the "fix" it happens again.
Who sells rails? Im probably going to pull the intake again and do tgv deletes this spring.

Considering -30 is a regular occurence every winter here I might as well change out the stock set up.
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Old 01-09-2015, 08:30 PM   #119
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Google, "Subaru topfeed fuel rails" I really like the perrins, but I highly recommend replacing the plastic fittings they use with metal ones.
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:32 AM   #120
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Angry Effed something up while repairing fuel line

Okay so my temp fix didnt work so I replaced the fuel line with the 5/16 line that was suggested. I had unplugged the two coil packs on the passenger side and what ever that section of wire harness connected to. Without taking the IM all the way out I was able to lift it up enough to get some hand space under to replace the hoses and clamps.
So 5 hours later I get it all done and everything plugged back in and clamps and bolted tight and started the car to purge the coolant system. Ran fine for about 25 minutes total.
Started down the road and under very small amounts of boost I hesitated really bad, so I didnt push it or wot. I drove for about 6 miles and bam...the car dies. Tried restarting it and the only thing I got was the fuel pump relay constantly clicking with the empty fuel light on and my temp needle shot all the way up to very high.
So i dc'ed the battery to reset the ecu...bc with the key in the on position the AP was unable to connect to the ecu. The car turns over but wont start. I checked all my connections every last one of them. Checked all the vacuum lines and they are all connected.
I pulled the fuel pump fuse both under the hood and under the dash. Just continuously clicks. I can hear clicking coming from the fuel filter area and also on the passenger side of the fuel rail. I know i didnt reverse the fuel lines (hopefully) but is it possible for the car to run for a bit and then show these symptoms with that scenario?
If any one has had this issue please feel free to give some insight. I really hope I didnt brick the ECU.
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Old 01-11-2015, 01:57 AM   #121
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Angry Effed something up while repairing fuel line

Okay so my temp fix didnt work so I replaced the fuel line with the 5/16 line that was suggested. I had unplugged the two coil packs on the passenger side and what ever that section of wire harness connected to. Without taking the IM all the way out I was able to lift it up enough to get some hand space under to replace the hoses and clamps.
So 5 hours later I get it all done and everything plugged back in and clamps and bolted tight and started the car to purge the coolant system. Ran fine for about 25 minutes total.
Started down the road and under very small amounts of boost I hesitated really bad, so I didnt push it or wot. I drove for about 6 miles and bam...the car dies. Tried restarting it and the only thing I got was the fuel pump relay constantly clicking with the empty fuel light on and my temp needle shot all the way up to very high.
So i dc'ed the battery to reset the ecu...bc with the key in the on position the AP was unable to connect to the ecu. The car turns over but wont start. I checked all my connections every last one of them. Checked all the vacuum lines and they are all connected.
I pulled the fuel pump fuse both under the hood and under the dash. Just continuously clicks. I can hear clicking coming from the fuel filter area and also on the passenger side of the fuel rail. I know i didnt reverse the fuel lines (hopefully) but is it possible for the car to run for a bit and then show these symptoms with that scenario?
If any one has had this issue please feel free to give some insight. I really hope I didnt brick the ECU.
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Old 01-11-2015, 10:32 AM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chad042288 View Post
Okay so my temp fix didnt work so I replaced the fuel line with the 5/16 line that was suggested. I had unplugged the two coil packs on the passenger side and what ever that section of wire harness connected to. Without taking the IM all the way out I was able to lift it up enough to get some hand space under to replace the hoses and clamps.

So 5 hours later I get it all done and everything plugged back in and clamps and bolted tight and started the car to purge the coolant system. Ran fine for about 25 minutes total.

Started down the road and under very small amounts of boost I hesitated really bad, so I didnt push it or wot. I drove for about 6 miles and bam...the car dies. Tried restarting it and the only thing I got was the fuel pump relay constantly clicking with the empty fuel light on and my temp needle shot all the way up to very high.

So i dc'ed the battery to reset the ecu...bc with the key in the on position the AP was unable to connect to the ecu. The car turns over but wont start. I checked all my connections every last one of them. Checked all the vacuum lines and they are all connected.

I pulled the fuel pump fuse both under the hood and under the dash. Just continuously clicks. I can hear clicking coming from the fuel filter area and also on the passenger side of the fuel rail. I know i didnt reverse the fuel lines (hopefully) but is it possible for the car to run for a bit and then show these symptoms with that scenario?

If any one has had this issue please feel free to give some insight. I really hope I didnt brick the ECU.

Hopefully your mechanic skills are better than your grammar, jeez.

Let me get this straight, you fixed the fuel lines on passenger side without removing turbo inlet? You just lifted that side of intake manifold a little?

Do you smell fuel when you have the key at the on position and fuel pump is priming? Sounds like it could be three issues;
-massive vac leak
- fuel lines still leaking more than before.
- you may have over stretched something relating to the ecu/engine harness.


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Old 01-11-2015, 10:48 AM   #123
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There are a few other connections you could have stretched or broken doing that. Crank position sensor maybe?

I really dont understand how you managed to move the intake at all with one side still bolted down.

You also probably have a massive vacuum/boost leak as the intake manifold gaskets are not reuseable. Id suggest pulling the intake now to check all the connections and replace the gaskets.
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Old 01-11-2015, 11:45 AM   #124
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IM was completely removed.

Mechanical skills are great( was a tech for Honda)

Grammar--I honestly could care.


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Old 01-11-2015, 12:00 PM   #125
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I'm bolts were removed but IM was not taken all the way out...

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