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Old 11-07-2007, 06:49 PM   #1
007WRX
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Default Battery/Washer Bottle Re-Location

Hey guys, a few questions.

I have everything in my engine bay ripped apart and though I might as well move my battery and my washer bottle to the trunk.

Few questions:

What gauge wire for washer bottle wire?

What gauge wire for battery positive/negavite?

Thanks, RYan
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Old 11-07-2007, 07:00 PM   #2
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for the battery i would just run 2ga wire and as for the washer, 16ga should be good.

Shane
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Old 11-07-2007, 09:02 PM   #3
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....d000000000000d....ya only really need the POS run up to the front of the car

my battery has been under my passengers seat for 4 years.....and only the POS is run to the underhood fusebox....the NEG is bolted to the seat mount bolt.

works great....same pc680 battery since SEP03


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Old 11-08-2007, 01:10 PM   #4
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I kept reading POS as "piece of S" and not "Positive".

Scotty, I just picked up a used PC680 with an open top metal tray. I've heard conflicting opinions about whether or not the sealed batteries need a completely sealed battery tray for trunk mounting. I know yours is in a lunchbox under the passenger seat. What do you think?

Also, do you have pics of the connection in/on/at the fusebox? Just wondering what you did with the extra wires. I'm planning on trunk mounting the PC680 and in the winter, putting the stocker back in and removing the lightweight.

Last edited by Mechie3; 11-08-2007 at 01:50 PM.
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Old 11-08-2007, 04:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
I kept reading POS as "piece of S" and not "Positive".
I did too and got really confused..
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Old 11-08-2007, 07:30 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
I kept reading POS as "piece of S" and not "Positive".

Scotty, I just picked up a used PC680 with an open top metal tray. I've heard conflicting opinions about whether or not the sealed batteries need a completely sealed battery tray for trunk mounting. I know yours is in a lunchbox under the passenger seat. What do you think?

Also, do you have pics of the connection in/on/at the fusebox? Just wondering what you did with the extra wires. I'm planning on trunk mounting the PC680 and in the winter, putting the stocker back in and removing the lightweight.
...beware that used battery....if it has been dropped---easy to do if ya underestimate the weight of the battery for its size!!!!....or if it has been overheated.....heat is bad juju for these AGM batteries.......and as far as sealing them.....they will only vent if severely abused/shorted/improperly used.....they are REALLY sealed, and I have never seen ANY evidence of any gassing/leaking with mine.

...and no pics of the POS in the fusebox....but I just followed the POS to the POS terminal in the fusebox and attached the cable---i soldered ring terminals on the associated cables and just bolted it on and done
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 007WRX View Post
Hey guys, a few questions.

I have everything in my engine bay ripped apart and though I might as well move my battery and my washer bottle to the trunk.

Few questions:

What gauge wire for washer bottle wire?

What gauge wire for battery positive/negavite?

Thanks, RYan
Uhh why would you move your battery and washer bottle to the trunk? Their an actual reason or just cause?
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Old 11-08-2007, 08:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnTaroAdun View Post
Uhh why would you move your battery and washer bottle to the trunk? Their an actual reason or just cause?
free up engine bay space?

I relocated mine and made a smaller reservoir for a while because I needed room for some stuff I was testing out..
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Old 11-08-2007, 09:23 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnTaroAdun View Post
Uhh why would you move your battery and washer bottle to the trunk? Their an actual reason or just cause?
....d000000000000000000000000000d....

mebbe ya just don't understand that taking that ~35 pounds of the battery and ~10 pounds(full) of the washer bottle OFF the front of the car(and all the rest of the garbage ya don't really need) makes a

H U G E

difference in how the car handles
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Old 11-08-2007, 09:37 PM   #10
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Our cars are like 59%F/41%R, so moving weight to rear = win. Might help with rear-inside tire lift a bit. OP, from what I've read, you're going to want the battery as close to center and back of the rear seats as possible. If you have to pick a side, pick the passenger side, IIRC, the driver's side is a bit heavier in the front and back, but it may depend on how much gas you have.
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Old 11-09-2007, 02:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
....d000000000000000000000000000d....

mebbe ya just don't understand that taking that ~35 pounds of the battery and ~10 pounds(full) of the washer bottle OFF the front of the car(and all the rest of the garbage ya don't really need) makes a

H U G E

difference in how the car handles
Indeed.

I thought about deleting the washer bottle, but I want to keep it as functional as possible. So I am rigging up a bracket to hold it.

Last edited by 007WRX; 11-09-2007 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 11-09-2007, 02:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WebMasterP View Post
Our cars are like 59%F/41%R, so moving weight to rear = win. Might help with rear-inside tire lift a bit. OP, from what I've read, you're going to want the battery as close to center and back of the rear seats as possible. If you have to pick a side, pick the passenger side, IIRC, the driver's side is a bit heavier in the front and back, but it may depend on how much gas you have.
So you are saying passenger side, as forward as possible. I have no liner or anything in my trunk at all. I was planning on mounting it by the tail light, as there is a section there. And I can drill through the trunk and get underneath with easy access.
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Old 11-09-2007, 03:16 PM   #13
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That puts the weight behind the rear axle with a large moment arm (think arm of a see saw). You either want to place it in front of the axle (most likely inside the car for us to do that) or as close to the axle as possible.
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Old 11-09-2007, 04:31 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
That puts the weight behind the rear axle with a large moment arm (think arm of a see saw). You either want to place it in front of the axle (most likely inside the car for us to do that) or as close to the axle as possible.
What he said.

You want as little weight that's not between the axels as possible.
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Old 11-09-2007, 06:26 PM   #15
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Yo, ryan.
My battery is located behind my passenger seat.
www.summitracing.com.
And switch to a optima red top.

Your looking for 100-200$ for a kit, but they are everything you need.
They include:
Battery Relocation Kit, Aluminum Box, 2-Gauge Cables, Terminals, Hold-Down Hardware, Gommets, Cable Clamps,Kit

Kits vary. But they are nice!

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...700+4294912629
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Check it.
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Old 11-10-2007, 10:40 AM   #16
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If you autocross the battery can't be in the passenger compartment (ie, must be behind the rear seat.
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Old 11-10-2007, 12:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
If you autocross the battery can't be in the passenger compartment (ie, must be behind the rear seat.
...depends on class
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:40 AM   #18
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^^ Right, forgot to mention that. In ESP it has to be behind.

Found this yesterday:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1384221
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Old 11-11-2007, 08:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
....d000000000000000000000000000d....

mebbe ya just don't understand that taking that ~35 pounds of the battery and ~10 pounds(full) of the washer bottle OFF the front of the car(and all the rest of the garbage ya don't really need) makes a

H U G E

difference in how the car handles
Uncle Scotty lol it seems as though you hold a wealth of information, but every time you post it seems like it's sarcastic mostly cause you always start of with doooooooooooooooood lol maybe it's me i dunno. But since everyones agreeing with you i assume your not being sarcastic that being said I assume removing weight is mainly for non-street purposes. Then again, to each his own.
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Old 11-11-2007, 09:13 PM   #20
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It makes the car handle better on the street and off the street. Of course your gas mileage will be slightly, ever so slightly better. It just makes the car more enjoyable. For those of us that AX, we look to drop extra weight and, when possible, change the front biased weight distribution. Figure, take 35 lbs off the front, add 4lbs of wiring from the front to back and a 15 lb battery and overall you've dropped 16 lbs, but removed 35 from the front. Braking won't nose dive as much, and turning will be tighter.

US knows his stuff. He usually goes DOOOOOOD! when he's said the same thing over and over and.....hehe.
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Old 11-12-2007, 09:34 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechie3 View Post
It makes the car handle better on the street and off the street. Of course your gas mileage will be slightly, ever so slightly better. It just makes the car more enjoyable. For those of us that AX, we look to drop extra weight and, when possible, change the front biased weight distribution. Figure, take 35 lbs off the front, add 4lbs of wiring from the front to back and a 15 lb battery and overall you've dropped 16 lbs, but removed 35 from the front. Braking won't nose dive as much, and turning will be tighter.

US knows his stuff. He usually goes DOOOOOOD! when he's said the same thing over and over and.....hehe.
lol nice. I know you know alot about things as well Mech. I've seen your post somethings before and it looked like you knew what you were talking about anyway Doing all this is pointless unless you have a motive for your car other then a DD right lol. I don't plan on doing this but then again who knows I think i wana try some type of races with my car something off road maybe i dunno. Not sure what different races their are blah blah. Anyway GOOD LUCK WITH THE MODS!
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Old 11-12-2007, 11:41 AM   #22
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It is a little pointless for a DD. For AX it's a good mod, and if you're trying to clean up the engine bay it's a good mod. Even if you're bored and want a bit of a DIY project it can be fun. Just for the cost (~$100 for a battery, ~$50 for wires/connectors, and extra for a box, etc) it's a lesser done mod since it's a decent investment. For DD, simply swapping out the battery for a lightweight is typically all that is done (just make sure you get a heatshield/wrap for it).
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Old 11-12-2007, 12:37 PM   #23
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I need to figure out how to make the I/C spray reservoir double-function as the windshield water reservoir so I can just take the windshield washer reservoir out and just spray water with a tiny bit of alcohol on the windows

Last edited by WebMasterP; 11-12-2007 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 11-12-2007, 01:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WebMasterP View Post
I need to figure out how to make the I/C spray reservoir double-function as the windshield water reservoir so I can just take the windshield water fluid out and just spray water with a tiny bit of alcohol on the windows
....d0000000000000000000d....ya ARE aware that winshield washer fluid HAS alcohol IN IT and many have used the -25 variety of winshield washer fluid AS ALCOHOL INJECTION FLUID with good results

the alcohol is GOOD for cleaning windows

....and ya need a solenoid activated valve for that one


....and anyone that thinks that moving the battery and removing weight off the front of a car for DD use is just NOT an enthusiast at heart and cares nothing for performance as removing weight off the front(and stiffening it) is one of the BEST POSSIBLE EVER THINGS TO DO FOR THE GD CHASSIS.

Don't blow sunshine up your own ass on this one.......take 100 pounds(REAL easy to do) off the front of the car and THEN tell me that it isn't worth it.


.......I'll wait
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WebMasterP View Post
I need to figure out how to make the I/C spray reservoir double-function as the windshield water reservoir so I can just take the windshield washer reservoir out and just spray water with a tiny bit of alcohol on the windows
Take your pump out of your washer fluid reservoir, take the grommet too.

Drill a hole in the IS res, pop the grommet in, and snap the pump in. Extend wiring from engine bay to trunk, and presto. Your buttons will still work properly.

No need for a 'noid valve...you already have everything you need.
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