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Old 01-25-2013, 04:42 PM   #8801
Navysesal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve2.5i View Post
while were on the subject, what brake pads r u guys running? And or recommend?
Im currently running ebc redstuff with stock rotors.

Cant really say much about them, since im running half upgraded. The vendor i bought it from only sent me the fronts so far and i think their finally sending the rears. After 2 months, 30some emails to them, and filing a report to the BBB.

But back on tangent; ebcs have a lot more bite for sure. Haven't experience any brake fade with the normal mountain drives i experience. These are considered sporty pads, so their going to eat into the rotors a little more than normal.

Brake dust is substantially lower, haven't washed my car in about a month and there's is only a very thin coating of dust. Hardly noticable
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:42 PM   #8802
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Originally Posted by DownhillSubie View Post

Just got the car towed back home. Currently in the garage with a charger on the battery to bring it back to a full charge. Any trick tips on getting the back seat out to get to the fuel pump, I haven't been able to find any DIY's on this process for 08+ vehicles. Gotta say, for the amount of people on NASIOC... NASIOC lacks DIY's, maintenance with pictures compared to Audizine.
Why are you using 93 octane? It has zero benefit. You are just simply wasting money.
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:07 PM   #8803
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Originally Posted by Steve2.5i View Post
while were on the subject, what brake pads r u guys running? And or recommend?
Little over 60k miles and I'm still on the original pads and rotors.
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Old 01-25-2013, 05:15 PM   #8804
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Originally Posted by JourdanWithaU View Post

Little over 60k miles and I'm still on the original pads and rotors.
I'm still on the originals as well.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:23 PM   #8805
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Originally Posted by Steve2.5i View Post

I'm still on the originals as well.
I'm at 51k and I've replaced them twice.
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Old 01-25-2013, 07:55 PM   #8806
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Originally Posted by 09subi2.5i View Post

Interesting.. Trying to reduce brake fade
Upgrade to the Wrx larger front rotors, upgrade your pads to hawk hps or higher, replace brake fluid with much higher boiling point and by then you should be good. I absolutely brake fade so I did all the above and added a Grimmspeed master cylinder brace, goodridge stainless steel brake line, and Dba t3 slotted rotors all around.

Where and when are you experiencing brake fade?.

Brake pads- I wore out the stock ones by 25k and installed hawk hps. No problems since.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:03 PM   #8807
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I'm on stop tech pads and powerslot slotted rotors up front. Stopping power was a huge increase. The Grimmspeed MCB also was a night and day upgrade.

Still have the stupid drums in the rear though. :/
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:10 PM   #8808
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Originally Posted by KartRacer3 View Post

Upgrade to the Wrx larger front rotors, upgrade your pads to hawk hps or higher, replace brake fluid with much higher boiling point and by then you should be good. I absolutely brake fade so I did all the above and added a Grimmspeed master cylinder brace, goodridge stainless steel brake line, and Dba t3 slotted rotors all around.

Where and when are you experiencing brake fade?.

Brake pads- I wore out the stock ones by 25k and installed hawk hps. No problems since.
Bought the car used at 32k and need new rotors by 42k however they were low when I bought te car. So if I brought my car to my Subaru mechanic he would be able to do that for me if I asked for the Wrx upgrade?

I don't auto cross yet however I plan to in the spring. But I experience it when I'm really driving her hard, mostly city driving so a lot of braking.

And rotors all round.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:12 PM   #8809
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Noob question but I don't see it shown anywhere... how do you get the lower portion of the rear seats out?

This picture is from a 2011 WRX and I don't see any black or any color tabs on the sides of MY seat, just the white plastic clip in the center. Thanks guys! Fancy, please chime in since I know you just did carpet swap.

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Old 01-25-2013, 08:13 PM   #8810
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Originally Posted by 09subi2.5i View Post
Bought the car used at 32k and need new rotors by 42k however they were low when I bought te car. So if I brought my car to my Subaru mechanic he would be able to do that for me if I asked for the Wrx upgrade?

I don't auto cross yet however I plan to in the spring. But I experience it when I'm really driving her hard, mostly city driving so a lot of braking.
You could easily do the brakes yourself. Just get a caliper press. The outright price of the tool would pay for itself over the years.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:25 PM   #8811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09subi2.5i View Post

Bought the car used at 32k and need new rotors by 42k however they were low when I bought te car. So if I brought my car to my Subaru mechanic he would be able to do that for me if I asked for the Wrx upgrade?

I don't auto cross yet however I plan to in the spring. But I experience it when I'm really driving her hard, mostly city driving so a lot of braking.

And rotors all round.
Like fancyfootwork said, you can do it yourself. All you need is the Wrx front caliper bracket and the new rotors for the front. For your situation I would recommend upgrading to the Wrx rotors, replacing your rear rotors, and upgrade to at least hawk hps or similar pads. You might as well replace your brake fluid too since they do that around 30k anyways, plus it will improve your the firmness of your brake pedal.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:51 PM   #8812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DownhillSubie
Noob question but I don't see it shown anywhere... how do you get the lower portion of the rear seats out?

This picture is from a 2011 WRX and I don't see any black or any color tabs on the sides of MY seat, just the white plastic clip in the center. Thanks guys! Fancy, please chime in since I know you just did carpet swap.
To remove the seat bottom? Just pull straight up and it comes right off! I've removed it a few times for wiring a sub, installing my seat cover, cleaning, etc....
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:54 PM   #8813
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fancyfootwork15

You could easily do the brakes yourself. Just get a caliper press. The outright price of the tool would pay for itself over the years.
You can usually rent then from a store like Advanced or NAPA for free, just leave a refundable deposit on it.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:58 PM   #8814
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You can usually rent then from a store like Advanced or NAPA for free, just leave a refundable deposit on it.
That too..
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:19 PM   #8815
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Old 01-25-2013, 10:58 PM   #8816
09subi2.5i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KartRacer3 View Post

Like fancyfootwork said, you can do it yourself. All you need is the Wrx front caliper bracket and the new rotors for the front. For your situation I would recommend upgrading to the Wrx rotors, replacing your rear rotors, and upgrade to at least hawk hps or similar pads. You might as well replace your brake fluid too since they do that around 30k anyways, plus it will improve your the firmness of your brake pedal.
Thanks guys yeah I would but I just don't have my jack at my dorm. Okay so get all OEM rotors? Just make front Wrx which needs a caliper bracket. And then hawks.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:11 AM   #8817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 09subi2.5i View Post

Thanks guys yeah I would but I just don't have my jack at my dorm. Okay so get all OEM rotors? Just make front Wrx which needs a caliper bracket. And then hawks.
I was reading through a thread about stoptech vs hawks. What I came up with was stoptech have a better heat capacity, lower dust, and better friction. I forgot to mention cheaper. That was just one tread though and everyone seemed to favor stoptech vs hawk. Back to reading this time for hawk hps.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:29 AM   #8818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve2.5i View Post
I was reading through a thread about stoptech vs hawks. What I came up with was stoptech have a better heat capacity, lower dust, and better friction. I forgot to mention cheaper. That was just one tread though and everyone seemed to favor stoptech vs hawk. Back to reading this time for hawk hps.
I read through the same couple threads.
09subi2.5i- The stoptech's do have a wider heat range (60-1300 degrees farenheight) whereas the hawk hps are (60-750 ""). However numerous people mention the stoptech's will produce dust much more than the hawks as well as they don't have as good of initial bite as the hawks. If you want budget upgrade and don't mind wiping your wheels more often get the stoptechs, if not go with the hawk hps's like me
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Old 01-26-2013, 08:17 AM   #8819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fancyfootwork15 View Post

You could easily do the brakes yourself. Just get a caliper press. The outright price of the tool would pay for itself over the years.
This. But instead of a caliper press get a good large C-Clamp. They're cheaper and do the same thing.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:37 AM   #8820
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Thanks for all the great info guys! Will update when job is complete.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:28 AM   #8821
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While on the topic of brakes, mine seem to be squealing a little bit when I first start driving. Once I do a firm stop, the noise stops unless I'm driving on the highway and don't use the brakes for 45 minutes to an hour. Is this the beginning of needing new brakes? I've been meaning to get my friend to check them out for me, but its been freezing and I keep forgetting about it, since its not too noticeable. Thanks in advance for any input.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:58 AM   #8822
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Originally Posted by JustMatt View Post
While on the topic of brakes, mine seem to be squealing a little bit when I first start driving. Once I do a firm stop, the noise stops unless I'm driving on the highway and don't use the brakes for 45 minutes to an hour. Is this the beginning of needing new brakes? I've been meaning to get my friend to check them out for me, but its been freezing and I keep forgetting about it, since its not too noticeable. Thanks in advance for any input.
Do they shake when breaking?
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:25 PM   #8823
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You know your Canadian when a block heater is at the top of your mod list. -35c. For the last 6 days and night here.

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Old 01-26-2013, 03:28 PM   #8824
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You know your Canadian when a block heater is at the top of your mod list. -35c. For the last 6 days and night here.
Dude I thought it was bad when it was -20F here for a few days!
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Old 01-26-2013, 03:29 PM   #8825
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Originally Posted by JourdanWithaU View Post
Pads alone should get you pretty far. Otherwise you're a ~$20 bracket away from fitting WRX rotors and the selection on those is pretty good.
Kerr-ching, that's what I did. Being larger, the rotors are heavier but having more mass are able to dissipate heat better. Also having the pads further away from centre due to the larger rotor diameter means the pads have more mechanical advantage, you don't have to push the pedal quite as hard to get the same amount of stopping power.
As far as discs, I wouldn't bother with drilled and/or slotted, unless you want them for looks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve2.5i View Post
while were on the subject, what brake pads r u guys running? And or recommend?
For a DD, stick with Hawk HPS or similar, decent bite and low dust. They also handle small track duty quite well. There are probably other similar pads out there, I just haven't tried them.
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