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Old 01-21-2002, 01:07 PM   #1
nuburu2
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Default WhiteLine/Wagon Suspension pics

Here are some pics of the suspension parts/comparisons and result of "Wagon Specific" springs and KYB/AGX install.
Glenn O

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Old 01-21-2002, 02:18 PM   #2
Cajual
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Your Wagon looks awesome Glenn!

I am looking for springs/struts and was thinking of getting the whiteline/kyb combo for my sedan. How do you like it so far?

P.S. where did you order the parts from?
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Old 01-21-2002, 02:49 PM   #3
jacobhorn
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Your Wagon looks very nice. I love the white and black look. I especially like the painted side markers with tinted lenses. Did you use a spray tint? I think your ride would look even smoother with painted side skirts. But it look great just the way it is.

Jacob
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Old 01-21-2002, 03:15 PM   #4
nuburu2
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Cajual:
Thanks for the positive comments! The spring/strut combo have transformed the car! It is so much more responsive it's hard to believe! And to top it off the wife (primary pilot) has had not one negative thing to say about the ride quality! Believe me, she wouldn't hesitate, as I hear constantly about the ride of my lowered Integra, dropped 2" with Neuspeed Sport/Koni combo. The Legacy doesn't drag over speed bumps either!! I got the springs from Don Nimi at PDM-Racing ($150+ship) and the struts from P-S-T ($389 free ship).

Jacob, Thanks also for the nice compliments! The side-markers are just the way they came from Yuji's GB with the exception of being spray painted body color. The lenses are dark "crystal". I really like them better than the clear ones for my White car, and if he sees this, Thanks again Yuji !!! Looks like I'm finished until the long awaited stainless brake lines get here from Cobb. Next stop rear strut bar and maybe some more power. The S/C TEMPLAR is working on would be awesome if I win the Lotto!

Glenn O
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Old 01-21-2002, 07:07 PM   #5
Legacy777
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Glenn,

How do you like the AGX's? Have you played with them much as far as tweaking things. I have a set of GR2's now, and love them. However I have been thinking the AGX's and Whitelines would be my choice when I get around to lowering and what not. I like to have the adjustability....but I guess once you got everything dialed in....there's not much adjusting.
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Old 01-21-2002, 07:24 PM   #6
nuburu2
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Default Adjustments

L777,
Actually I've still got the struts set at break-in settings of 2F(of 4)4R(of 8) and have felt no need so far to vary from these. The car is not Auto-X'ed or anything like that, where I figure the adjustments would be warranted. In my previous experience with Koni's the adjustment can also come into play later in the strut's life to compensate for wear. If anyone knows anything contrary, to this, from other's or own experience, please share with us.? They are so easily adjusted that I may try them stiffer some Sunday morning when I have an opportunity to take a little "road trip" by my lonesome. Overall they seem like a nice piece for the price. I don't feel I paid much of a premium over OEM, but they're definitely up to taming the WhiteLines.

Glenn O
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Old 01-21-2002, 08:06 PM   #7
legaliztik2001
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Glenn,

Like I have mentioned before, I don't race or autoX ... just daily driving ... do you think the whitelines can mate well with brand new OEM struts?

Bevan
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Old 01-21-2002, 08:26 PM   #8
nuburu2
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Default With OEM Struts?

Bevan,
I think Jacob said he's using OEM struts with his WhiteLines and he's very happy with the combo. From what I recall the springs are 20-25% stiffer than stock, but if you'll look at the comparison pics with stock they appear to be progressively wound, with more coils, especially in the rear (load capacity?) and although they ride more firmly I don't find them objectionable even with the car empty save front seat occupants. I don't believe you would regret trying them out!

Glenn O
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Old 01-21-2002, 11:04 PM   #9
remarcable
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How tough is it to get the springs on the struts and then into the car?

How long did it take you to do and what tools did you use?
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Old 01-21-2002, 11:26 PM   #10
Legacy777
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If you have never replaced struts before.....it will be an all day job probably. You'll need a spring compressor, rent from auto parts store. A set of 1/2 metric sockets....a big mofo breaker bar, and or air tools. set of 3/8 metric sockets, and possibly a deep well 10mm socket for the rear top mount bolts. Oh yeah, jack stands, brake fluid....and possibly a friend.....oh forgot, some sort of puller for the rotors if they are stuck on there. YOu don't want to go bangin them up with a hammer if you want to use them again. Rent or get a puller from auto parts store. There is two screw holes in the rotor you can screw into and pop rotor off.

jack car up, take off wheels, remove the brake caliper, follow above procedure to remove rotor. Remove brake shrowd (front only). scrath the top of the bolt head, or something to that effect. One of the bolts at the base of the strut is a camber bolt, so you want to get it back in the same position. Use your big mofo breaker bar to remove the two bottom bolts, Then loosen the top ones.

Now you have a choice, you can either snip the metal piece and slide the brake line out without opening up the brakes, (you'll have to do the same with the new ones) or open the brake system up and feed the line through the hole....then you'll have to bleed the brakes.

Wiggle the strut out....compress the spring, and take off the top nut that holds the top hat onto the strut. Remove top hat. Compress new spring, put on new strut, put top hat on, make sure to use the new bolt that comes with the strut. Reassemble, make sure the spring is lined up the same way as you took it off. Then just reassemble in a similar fashion.

The rears are pretty much the same, but you'll have to open the strut towers to get at the top hat bolts. Also there is no camber bolt in the rears.

That's the basics.....I don't think I've left anything out....but it's possible.
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Old 01-22-2002, 12:27 AM   #11
remarcable
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Thanks! I have all the tools needed other than a spring compressor (just got a complete socket and wrench set for x-mas!).

Now all I need are the parts to install!
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Old 01-22-2002, 02:24 AM   #12
nuburu2
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Marc,
The newer Legacy does not require the removal of the brake caliper or rotor to swap out the struts. One thing not mentioned was an "O" ratchet set to get the top bolt off of the fronts. A lot of the guys say air tools let you just "zip" it off, but I did the job without the aid of the compressor. The "O" ratchet allows an allen wrench to pass through the ratchet/socket to hold the bolt while the nut is ratcheted loose The spring compressor was a loaner from AutoZone for a $40 deposit. You should also have a Torque wrench. I have a 1/2" Micro-Torque that filled the bill.

Yep, it took me about 8 hours working alone. This was a first time for me so I was trying to be very deliberate and careful. Which certainly pays off when working alone. As stated B4 the one "DOH!" was forgetting to take the rubber spring seats out of the old rear struts and installing them in the new. The fronts don't have any, but I got one rear completely installed and torqued in place when I realized my mistake and had to start all over again. About 1 hour lost. I pulled the brake hoses so a lengthy brake bleed session followed, as the master cylinder drained completely despite tying the hoses up and wrapping with rags. I'm sure I could probably do it again in half the time.

The front springs seemed loose and I was concerned, as they could be wiggled around in the spring seat when completely unloaded, but after being being run a few miles the strut no longer extends that far with the wheel off the ground after I jacked it up to pull the wheels and inner fenders to do the side-markers. That's about all I can think of to add to L777's directions. Please feel free to e-mail me with any other concerns or questions.

Glenn O
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Old 01-22-2002, 05:02 PM   #13
remarcable
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I think somebody should archive this post!

Thanks for all the great info, this will help me quite a bit when I manage to save up enough money.
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Old 01-23-2002, 11:56 AM   #14
silverSurfer
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Question

hey Glenn,

you wouldn't happen to know the spring rates for the whitelines would you? I wanna compare them to my Eibach SportLines.

thanks!

chrisC
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Old 01-23-2002, 01:00 PM   #15
nuburu2
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Default Rates

chrisC,
Sorry but I have no idea what the spring rates are. All I recall is WhiteLine stating they were 20-25% stiffer than stock.

Glenn O
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Old 01-23-2002, 01:46 PM   #16
jacobhorn
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-- SilverSurfer:

Here are details of Whiteline Springs to suit Subaru Legacy 94-98 sedan that were emailed to me from Whiteline; These are the springs I have installed. According to Whiteline, these are the only springs available for the 94-98 Legacy.

front Control (low);
part# 74502
spring rate ~ 190 Lbs/in linear
approx. drop ~ 35mm

rear Control (low);
part# 70370
spring rate ~ 160 Lbs/in progressive
approx. drop ~ 35mm


I hope this helps.

Jacob
jacobjhorn@hotmail.com
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Old 01-23-2002, 02:16 PM   #17
Legacy777
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jacob,

You know what the (low) means.....that just them stating they are lowering springs, or something to do with that "front and rear control"

Thanks

josh
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Old 01-23-2002, 03:23 PM   #18
nitrohuffer
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very nice!
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Old 01-23-2002, 04:05 PM   #19
nuburu2
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Default Wagon Specific

As I've stated B4 the springs on my GT are a Wagon-Specific application and despite any words "from WhiteLine" to the contrary, the part numbers, taken from the springs themselves are:
Front: 70357 Lowered(actual measurements) 1 inch
Rear: 70373 Lowered(actual measurements) 1 inch

I waited months to get the correct ones. This is just to set the record straight for any Wagon Owners out there considering these springs.

Glenn O
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Old 01-23-2002, 04:54 PM   #20
jacobhorn
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Glenn O is correct, as I stated, the specs I posted above are for the Legacy Sedan only, not wagon.

Legacy777:

The (low) simply represents that the springs lower the vehicle's ride height.

jacob
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Old 01-23-2002, 07:11 PM   #21
remarcable
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One more question: When you go over average height speed bumps at 30mph - 40mph do you bottom out or can it handle it?

Scraping on inclines and driveways?
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Old 01-23-2002, 07:44 PM   #22
Legacy777
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Quote:
Originally posted by jacobhorn
Glenn O is correct, as I stated, the specs I posted above are for the Legacy Sedan only, not wagon.

Legacy777:

The (low) simply represents that the springs lower the vehicle's ride height.

jacob


Thanks

Josh
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Old 01-23-2002, 08:06 PM   #23
nuburu2
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Marc, I don't drive through parking lots at 30-40mph, speed bumps or not. If you do I'd advise against 17inch rims! The only scraping on inclines or deep "entries/exits" has been my trailer hitch.

At high speed on varied surfaces on rural roads the spring/strut combo seems unfazed by abrupt changes but truthfully I do my best to avoid deeper chuck-holes and such out of respect/concern for my rims and tires, even with the 16's and 55 series rubber.

Glenn O
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Old 01-24-2002, 10:55 AM   #24
remarcable
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Thanks, I just want to make sure I'm not going to crush anything while driving on dirt roads if I hit a ditch.
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Old 01-24-2002, 03:43 PM   #25
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Even with my car's ride height as low as it is, I have not scraped a single thing. I have been very hapily surprised to find out that my front airdam is just high enough to clear almost all parking lot curbs. I have not bottomed out yet either, while I have been running 16 inch wheels. I don't think you will be disapointed with the Whitelines.

jacob
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