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Old 05-17-2011, 10:04 PM   #2551
DetailersDomain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt0thevizzle View Post
Will do, how about applications? Swirl remover etc?

http://t3.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:A...Tb2mnoT_f5fX4A

As for those pads, can I use the grip above?
I mentioned the products above the Adam's Polishes.

You should

wash
clay
polish
wax
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:22 PM   #2552
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hey phil!

i have been using menz 106 for the past couple years with an orange pad.

left it in the shed over the winter and it looks like it took a deep freeze.

looking to get into the megs line. will the 205 and orange pad/pc be enough to clean up a new car with minimal hazing?
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:26 PM   #2553
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you might want to try the uber green pad and Menzerna Power Finish, I'm not a big fan of the Meg's M205.
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Old 05-18-2011, 02:26 PM   #2554
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Originally Posted by detailersdomain.com View Post
I mentioned the products above the Adam's Polishes.

You should

wash
clay
polish
wax
Thanks Phil, one last question, so the Adam's polishes are not too rough on a new car?
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:22 PM   #2555
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adam's will be great for a new car.
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Old 05-18-2011, 03:58 PM   #2556
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Great! Purchasing soon.
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Old 05-22-2011, 12:22 PM   #2557
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Hey, I have a blue 2011 wrx and I never clay/polish/wax a car :s
For claying I should not have a problem, probably going to buy the Meguiar's kit or Adam's one.

I don't know if you could suggest me a kit for polish and waxing with all the pads, etc. ? I will probably polish and wax by hand for begin.
I have already a lot of swirls on the car

Thanks!
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Old 05-22-2011, 02:19 PM   #2558
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Phil, is there any way you could get some of these in from adams?

http://www.adamspolishes.com/p-125-a...dispenser.aspx

The gallons of their stuff is great, but a little hard to get into the foam gun.
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Old 05-24-2011, 03:10 PM   #2559
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Hey all I know many of you have been waiting for this one, our Memorial Day Special.

Please see the details below.

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(Note: the option will come up if your order is over $95)

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End: May 30, 2011 (midnight eastern std time)

Note: We will not be able to go back and credit orders if you do not put the PROMO Code or check off for the Free Shipping Option.

Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner is now in stock!
Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner 500 ml triggers
Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner 2 5 Liter Pack


We also have Aquartz Iron Cut in stock!

Iron Cut opens up the paint's pores to release ferrous particles and to neutralize caustic compounds that have developed in the paint's subsurface. Ongoing damage is immediately stopped and future damage is prevented by removing the ferrous particles.

Iron Cut sprays on as a thick, transparent, as the cleansing liquid begins to work into the dirt and grime, the formula begins to turn purple/ red. The purple/red coloration is the Iron Cut Cleaner forming a bond to the sintered iron on the car paint and wheel and changing its state to a water soluble complex for easy removal. Stubborn, baked on grime may take a small amount of agitation. Rinse car paint and wheels thoroughly with a power washer and wipe dry.

Iron cut in action cleaning up the rail dust and iron deposits.


Click here to start shopping.
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:57 PM   #2560
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Hey Phil, I think i'm going to pick up a PC from you guys, now what kind of polishes do you recommend to fix swirls for my 2011 OBP wrx? Adam's? or Menzerma? Please let me know what kind for each as well. I think i'm going to be purchasing it tomorrow.

Also I did some hand waxing yesterday and I notice the next day there are lot of dust on the car, how do I fix that? can I just wipe it down with a MF towel everytime there is dust or does that scratch the paint?

Last edited by jt0thevizzle; 05-24-2011 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:21 PM   #2561
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yes the Adam's would still work well with a machine.

as for the dust you can spray some Adam's Detail Spray or a detail spray on a mf towel and wipe the dust off provided its not a ton of dust.
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Old 05-25-2011, 02:02 PM   #2562
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Order placed, can't wait to have tons and tons of cleaning gear.


Curse you for having good sales, and thereby reducing my bank account.
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:27 PM   #2563
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonklein611 View Post
Order placed, can't wait to have tons and tons of cleaning gear.


Curse you for having good sales, and thereby reducing my bank account.
awesome! enjoy!@
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:05 PM   #2564
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What complete kit would you suggest me for polishing and waxing by hand ?
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:37 PM   #2565
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Originally Posted by armadatilem View Post
What complete kit would you suggest me for polishing and waxing by hand ?
I would recommend Adam's Essentials Kit for a complete kit
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Old 05-26-2011, 01:41 PM   #2566
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So i have a black car and i washed it and just put on wax. the next day theres a layer of dust not a little but not too much sorta in the middle. how do i remove it without making swirls or washing the car? or is washing the only way? thanks
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Old 05-26-2011, 05:55 PM   #2567
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that's probably enough dust if your posting to just go ahead and wash the car.

2 bucket method /grit guards with good wash mitt and good drying towel.
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:34 AM   #2568
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For the last year or so I have been using megs 105 and 205 with good results. But I grew tired of how finicky those polishes can be sometimes and after reading so many good reviews of menzerna products, I decided to buy sip and 106fa. I was testing out 106fa on my personal vehicle yesterday using an uber green pad and flex 3401 with good results except the product never seemed to want to come off the car. Even with ipa wipedowns I had extreme difficulty getting the residue removed and felt like I was marring the paint just getting it off. Needless to say I am a bit dissapointed as my main frustratiom with the megs line was removing all the oil and residues. Can you offer any advice on removing this product?
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Old 05-27-2011, 10:42 PM   #2569
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unfortunately this is typical of both meg's and menzerna on subie paint.
I would swap pads often, do a smaller area, make sure your pads are clean and use less product.

it happens to us all the time, what was the climate like?
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:02 PM   #2570
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That's really interesting the 2 of you have such poor experiences with 105 and 205 on Subaru paint. I would agree with Menzerna usually being a little stubborn to remove, but 205 at the very least should wipe off effortlessly. If its not, your pad is loaded, you are using too much product(which could be dependent on your priming method) and not allowing the lubricants to flash off.

In the 35+ I have finished out, I would say that 205 has been simply lovely, but, 105 is expected to be sticky and nasty on Subi paint if your pads are loaded - its essential to brush or spur them and to get the most from 105 on this paint, mist the pad with distilled water AFTER you pull it off the paint - then remove your 105 residue before it dries.

If you don't keep the pad lightly moist, it will dry out and you will have exhausted product mixed in with removed paint film from polishing that equates to goop on grippy paint.

A PCXP or equivalent is your friend on Subaru paint - trust this.

The problem with Menzerna is the lubrication needs to be exhausted, the problem with forced rotation machines(the Flex DA and any rotary) is that the forced action literally puts the machine in control vs Subaru paint "needing" to be in control(don't ask me how I could explain that). In short, a PC random orbital will simply give both you Phil and NoHandsNurse easier results, in actually less time because it orbits without being forced which will result in unnecessary drag by the machine itself.

I will make paper notes the next couple days on the Regal Blue Legacy and the San Remo Red WRX that are in for serious polishing.

If you guys need any more help, give me a ring - I definitely am comfortable with this paint and do not experience any issues that are typical with people who periodically do a car here and there.

Mike Fortunato
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(716)860-6366
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Old 05-27-2011, 11:36 PM   #2571
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To remove all the swirls, adams suggest to simply polish the car but meguiars say to use some product like Ultimate Compound or ScratchX™ 2.0 Cleaner before polishing it. Should I really do this step before polishing the car or what ? If those products remove all the swirls, what the polish for ?

Here a video that shows all the step they want us to do

sry for my bad english :S
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Old 05-28-2011, 12:49 AM   #2572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by detailersdomain.com View Post
unfortunately this is typical of both meg's and menzerna on subie paint.
I would swap pads often, do a smaller area, make sure your pads are clean and use less product.

it happens to us all the time, what was the climate like?
I really didn't do enough work to warrant changing the pad yet, I was just trying to get a feel for the 106fa so that I can do the whole car Sunday. I used a pad brush a few times to clean some spent product off but in retrospect I have decided that I might have been using too little product based on it clearing very very fast for the 2'x2' area I was working. I probably misconstrued the amount by comparing it to the amount of m105/205 used on a primed pad. I am unsure if that has any relation to the difficult removal of product.

The climate was 80-85 degrees in the garage with fairly moderate humidity.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AutoAesthetica View Post
That's really interesting the 2 of you have such poor experiences with 105 and 205 on Subaru paint. I would agree with Menzerna usually being a little stubborn to remove, but 205 at the very least should wipe off effortlessly. If its not, your pad is loaded, you are using too much product(which could be dependent on your priming method) and not allowing the lubricants to flash off.

In the 35+ I have finished out, I would say that 205 has been simply lovely, but, 105 is expected to be sticky and nasty on Subi paint if your pads are loaded - its essential to brush or spur them and to get the most from 105 on this paint, mist the pad with distilled water AFTER you pull it off the paint - then remove your 105 residue before it dries.

If you don't keep the pad lightly moist, it will dry out and you will have exhausted product mixed in with removed paint film from polishing that equates to goop on grippy paint.

A PCXP or equivalent is your friend on Subaru paint - trust this.

The problem with Menzerna is the lubrication needs to be exhausted, the problem with forced rotation machines(the Flex DA and any rotary) is that the forced action literally puts the machine in control vs Subaru paint "needing" to be in control(don't ask me how I could explain that). In short, a PC random orbital will simply give both you Phil and NoHandsNurse easier results, in actually less time because it orbits without being forced which will result in unnecessary drag by the machine itself.

I will make paper notes the next couple days on the Regal Blue Legacy and the San Remo Red WRX that are in for serious polishing.

If you guys need any more help, give me a ring - I definitely am comfortable with this paint and do not experience any issues that are typical with people who periodically do a car here and there.

Mike Fortunato
Auto Aesthetica
(716)860-6366
mike@autoaesthetica.com
I probably overstated my frustrations with m105/205. I picked those products up because of their versitility and understood that their was a learning curve to them. I have sense then found myself learning various techniques to minimize their problematic behaviors and get the polish to work. Any advice on the use of these products is much appreciated as everything I have learned on here, autogeek, and autopia has been helpful.
I am definitly going to give the pad misting a try as dusting is my main battle with m105 on most paints.

I can verify that this is significant to subie paint, as, I used the SIP and 106fa on a tacoma with much easier removal than what I face now.

Let me know how your san remo red paint behaves, as it would be nice to compare it to my experience with mine.

Thanks for the advice guys.
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Old 05-28-2011, 01:17 AM   #2573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoHandsNurse View Post
I really didn't do enough work to warrant changing the pad yet, I was just trying to get a feel for the 106fa so that I can do the whole car Sunday. I used a pad brush a few times to clean some spent product off but in retrospect I have decided that I might have been using too little product based on it clearing very very fast for the 2'x2' area I was working. I probably misconstrued the amount by comparing it to the amount of m105/205 used on a primed pad. I am unsure if that has any relation to the difficult removal of product.

The climate was 80-85 degrees in the garage with fairly moderate humidity.



I probably overstated my frustrations with m105/205. I picked those products up because of their versitility and understood that their was a learning curve to them. I have sense then found myself learning various techniques to minimize their problematic behaviors and get the polish to work. Any advice on the use of these products is much appreciated as everything I have learned on here, autogeek, and autopia has been helpful.
I am definitly going to give the pad misting a try as dusting is my main battle with m105 on most paints.

I can verify that this is significant to subie paint, as, I used the SIP and 106fa on a tacoma with much easier removal than what I face now.

Let me know how your san remo red paint behaves, as it would be nice to compare it to my experience with mine.

Thanks for the advice guys.
Will do. Don't count on a little moisture to keep the 105 from dusting - it just dusts . You just have to stay up with keeping your work area clean as you go.


105 dusts like son of a gun if the pad is getting near loaded. You probably noticed you don't get any dust on your first panel or so, but the 2nd panel is really bad. That's all the product and material removed clogging and allowing the dusting(theres just nowhere for it to go).

For me, keeping the foam moist(and clean from build up and load up) is what allows 105 to be removed easier when the polishing set is finished.

The SRR is realllllllly beat to snot, so I will need a pretty heavy compounding set assuming the coating thickness measures healthy. But I will let you know what stands out as I make my adjustments - I will also use 105/205(provided they perform) intentionally first.

Mike
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Old 05-28-2011, 03:42 PM   #2574
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and that's why we still use the PC for Subie corrections for the last 50 or so.

rotary and flex 3401 don't go well with Subie paint. (sorry should have been more clear.)
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Old 05-28-2011, 04:48 PM   #2575
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Default 2011 Obp Wrx

I am so thankful for this thread! Anyways here i go...
When i bought my car it came with tons of swirls and with a beautiful black behind them it is absolutely hideious in the sun! I am super anal about my car and i wash it every single week without fail. now just this past weekend i polished all the swirls out and threw a wax on her. She looks gorgeous now
She's due for another wash tomorrow i think and my question to you is how do i continue to wash my car safely without swirling so i don't have to polish it out every 2 weeks?
What i have been doing is just spray it down with low pressure to get the majority of the dirt off. Then i low pressure soak it with soap... Then high pressure soap, High pressure rinse, then low pressure filtered water and an air dry. I am so afraid to even touch my car that if i do its gonna swirl! So i don't scrub it and i don't attempt to even dry it. With that said i'm pretty much stuck with water spots and a half a$$ wash. Could you please help with a multi step process of washing an OBP wrx that can be done on a regular basis??
Also i would like some advice on how often i need to reapply a wax.

Thanks a million

-Beach
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