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Old 03-07-2008, 04:38 PM   #51
watchunglava
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Quote:
Originally Posted by watchunglava View Post
i ordered my kit and its on the way . ok the bushing upgrades i understand and im down. but the lock out bolts? ok do these lock out the rear diff??? like make it useless and make my rear axles act as one?this is what i understand a diff lock out to be . or does it just tighten up the suspension? im curious because i would love to lock my rear diff on the dirt , but on a road i like the function of the rear diff . can you please clarify what exactly the " lock out " bolts accomplish?

anyone know the answer to this????
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Old 03-07-2008, 06:16 PM   #52
ATK
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From what I understand, this is the bolt you're talking about. I'm pretty sure the bolt just locks down the subframe and doesn't allow the diff to clunk around.

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Old 03-08-2008, 02:06 PM   #53
Spike700
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What can I do if the threads that the subframe bolts are screwed into are rusted off?
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Old 03-09-2008, 12:50 PM   #54
PERRIN
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ATK: That is correct. That is bolt / shim combo right there. Prevents the subframe from jouncing around!

Spike700: I may be missing something in the question, but my opinion would be to clean them and re-tap them. Should be a relatively easy affair. Let me know if I missed something!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com
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Old 03-09-2008, 02:12 PM   #55
watchunglava
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sweet , thats exactly what i thought it did . so what the bolts are . they are lock down bolts. i was just concerned they locked the rear diff . but i think welding is the only way to hook that up. just trying to be as informed as possible thanks for the clarification.
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Old 03-09-2008, 10:09 PM   #56
Spike700
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Thanks Adam,

No you didn't miss anything. The threads are rusted out on my car so I was just wondering if there was something I could do. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 03-10-2008, 11:14 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike700 View Post
Thanks Adam,

No you didn't miss anything. The threads are rusted out on my car so I was just wondering if there was something I could do. Thanks for the advice.
Koolio! No problem! Keep me posted!

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Old 03-11-2008, 01:01 PM   #58
miked001
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"Locate the differential front support beam and the 2 outer bolts securing it to the chassis. Remove the passenger side large bolt securing the front support beam to the chassis, and the two bolts securing the plate to the chassis."

I have the parts on order. Is this step pretty obvious? I didn't see anything picturing this?
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Old 03-11-2008, 01:07 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miked001 View Post
"Locate the differential front support beam and the 2 outer bolts securing it to the chassis. Remove the passenger side large bolt securing the front support beam to the chassis, and the two bolts securing the plate to the chassis."

I have the parts on order. Is this step pretty obvious? I didn't see anything picturing this?
Yeah I wouldn't stress just yet. It is pretty easy once you have the parts and car in front of you. However, if you DO get into a pinch, then let us know. Always happy to help!

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Old 03-17-2008, 12:23 PM   #60
FleaDog
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installed this this past weekend. There is a circular piece of metal above the forward crossmember/brace, in between the stock rubber and the chassis....

Its not described/referenced in the instructions.. is this removed, or does the urethane bushing go on-top-of or below?
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:32 PM   #61
watchunglava
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same thing here man . on one side i put the plate underneath. on the other i put it on top.

when i put the second side together it was obvious the metal plate goes on top of the red bushing. i went back to the otherside and the metal plate was all bent up cause i put it on wrong. after fixing it and tightening everything up im pretty sure it bent back into place. it feels fine. next time i hae the car up on ramps or stands ill recheck everything.
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Old 03-17-2008, 12:39 PM   #62
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YES the metal plate goes on top. Good point on the instructions, thanks.

I'll have our instruction man look at it to see how we can illustrate that.
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Old 03-17-2008, 04:00 PM   #63
PERRINJeff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATK View Post
From what I understand, this is the bolt you're talking about. I'm pretty sure the bolt just locks down the subframe and doesn't allow the diff to clunk around.
Ya, those bolts, need to be tightened. In that position the subframe will not be locked down. Just crank'em down!
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Old 03-17-2008, 09:23 PM   #64
Furious George
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRIN_JOHNL View Post
YES the metal plate goes on top. Good point on the instructions, thanks.

I'll have our instruction man look at it to see how we can illustrate that.


Dammit! I just got around to installing this weekend, and was asking myself the same thing. I put bushing on top of plate because it didnt seem like the plate was going to sit flush against the chassis (I didnt notice it was there until it was fully disassembled).

Luckily though the install was very easy. My wife was amazed as it was the first time I told her I would be back in from the garage in an hour, and I actually was.



As a tip, I know a lot of people talk about the lockout bolts not threading in correctly. I took a tooth brush, which fits up there perfectly, and some cleaner and scrubbed the threads out well, and then blew them out with some air just to be sure. I also put a bit of lithium grease at the start of the bolt threads to ease the start. Both bolts went in nice and easy (finger tighten first for sure).
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Old 03-18-2008, 05:04 AM   #65
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how much does NVH does it make?
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:01 AM   #66
PERRIN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uber-Charged View Post
how much does NVH does it make?
Very little. The biggest change you might notice is on expansion joints in the road. Others in this thread may be able to better relay their experiences now that they have the system installed.

Thanks for asking!

Adam.taft@perrinperformance.com
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Old 03-18-2008, 01:25 PM   #67
Furious George
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I have only been on it a few days, but what I can say is that overall NVH is minimal. However, if you hit a pothole or something else in the road with the rear wheel, the sound transmission is much greater than stock.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:04 PM   #68
pdxsilverwrx
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Just installed this kit. Only kind of hard part was aligning the bolt holes after installing the bushings on the differential stabilizer. Overall not a hard install at all.
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Old 04-06-2008, 04:19 PM   #69
nicholam
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I installled this kit on my 05 wagon last spring and I love it. The install was easy with jack stands and hand tools. The car immediatly felt much more solid. You really feel the acceleration and it's much easier to be very precise with steering, braking, and acceleration. I highly recomend it. The NVH isn't that noticeable and it's kind of nice to hear the car.
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Old 04-06-2008, 05:47 PM   #70
PERRIN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Furious George View Post
I have only been on it a few days, but what I can say is that overall NVH is minimal. However, if you hit a pothole or something else in the road with the rear wheel, the sound transmission is much greater than stock.
Thank you for the honest feedback. That is what can make NASIOC GREAT!

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Old 04-06-2008, 05:48 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxsilverwrx View Post
Just installed this kit. Only kind of hard part was aligning the bolt holes after installing the bushings on the differential stabilizer. Overall not a hard install at all.
KOOL! Thanks for the business!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com
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Old 05-03-2008, 12:51 PM   #72
PERRIN_Ken
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Here is a little help for you weekend warriors

Ken

Ken Jubb
Sales
PERRIN Performance
503-693-1702 Ex.113
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Old 05-03-2008, 01:40 PM   #73
TheNewThatGuy
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I really like the idea of this kit... I drive an '00 RS, but I drive it hard as hell and beat it into the ground off road....sometimes litterly, that's why I keep a winch.... So after 150K, it's easy to understand why I get those jolts not just in first and second, but also third... I've always known there to be alot of unwanted slop in the driveline, but I also know there's alot of rust....So I guess I'm just skeptical about doing this mod, because my rear end is held together by frozen bolts.

Uh, I guess my two questions are, after seeing this thread just now, is that sale still active, and also....You guys have any suggestion for if I break/ and forced to destroy bolts? Like, can you guys at least supply me with some dimensions so I can run by the hardware store and get new ones?
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Old 05-04-2008, 01:01 AM   #74
PERRIN_Ken
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IM sent

Have a good night

Ken

Ken Jubb
Sales
PERRIN Performance
503-693-1702 Ex.113
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Old 05-24-2008, 05:02 AM   #75
socrates42
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nice writeup
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