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Old 05-25-2008, 11:44 PM   #76
PERRIN
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Originally Posted by socrates42 View Post
nice writeup
Hey thanks! Anytime we can help you out, let us know!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com
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Old 05-26-2008, 12:58 PM   #77
ravenlunatic
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im not sure i understand what everyone means by "difference" does this kit just eliminate that "clunk" from 1st to 2nd? or does it help with acceleration? please explain, i'm very new to subies but at the same time very curious.
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Old 05-27-2008, 10:24 AM   #78
PERRIN
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im not sure i understand what everyone means by "difference" does this kit just eliminate that "clunk" from 1st to 2nd? or does it help with acceleration? please explain, i'm very new to subies but at the same time very curious.
Well both and then some. The clunk is a biggy for sure that is eliminated. The throttle control is the next thing in my mind, as the slop is gone, thus the throttle input is more immediately felt through the car. Finally the control of the rear suspension is improved.

Hope that helps! Let me know!

Adam
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:55 AM   #79
ravenlunatic
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thanks! that did clear things up for me. since i don't have a shop or the tools to do any thing to my car myself, how much do you think it should cost to install?
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Old 05-29-2008, 11:12 AM   #80
PERRIN
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thanks! that did clear things up for me. since i don't have a shop or the tools to do any thing to my car myself, how much do you think it should cost to install?
A good shop shouldn't charge more than for one hour of installation time. It is VERY straightforward to install.

PLEASE let me know if I can help in anyway further.

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com
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Old 05-29-2008, 11:38 AM   #81
ravenlunatic
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what area of work would this kit be placed under? should i take it to a tranny shop or the average "all around" shop
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Old 05-29-2008, 11:44 AM   #82
PERRIN
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what area of work would this kit be placed under? should i take it to a tranny shop or the average "all around" shop
I would suggest someone that is proficient in suspension work. Midas wouldn't be my ideal choice.
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:26 PM   #83
ravenlunatic
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really? finally! someone states a shop that is actualy in my area. thanks again!
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Old 06-27-2008, 09:42 AM   #84
likerain35645
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ive had a list of parts of parts im working twords. its large. this rear subframe lockdown was on the list and now that its on sale i ordered it . let the suspension work begin . this is my first step in rear . next comes larger sway bar , end links , mounts, lateral links, trailing links , assorted chassis stiffening bars ,well see how it feels after all that in the rear if its too loose still ill look at coilovers. i just cant see swapping out the stocker struts and springs yet cause they still work . once they go bad ill upgrade , but we will see how other mods affect performance first.
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Old 06-28-2008, 09:40 PM   #85
sch3838
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Originally Posted by Perrin View Post
Also as a special treat to those following the Project 15K saga, I am offering a 15% discount on the SLS system when ordered directly from our website.

CLICK HERE!

During checkout apply coupon code SLSRULES (must be caps no spaces) to get 15% off the item! This is a great deal on a great product!

Thanks again NASIOC!

adam.taft@perrinperformance.com
i tried but didn't work, is 15% off still available?
Thanks
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Old 06-29-2008, 09:57 AM   #86
Richie03
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I installed the kit and I have one concern. I can feel the ring and pinion gears meshing in 2nd and 3rd gear right around 3500 rpm. I am wondering if this is normal.

I am wondering if I have installed the front bushings correctly (the 2 largest bushings in the kit. I installed the bushings on top of the support beam and mounted the plates on top but the bushings never seemed to seat flush in the mounting location. They seem to be bulging out. Does anyone think this is causing the gear vibration I am experiencing?

Other then that I love the Perrin SLS!
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Old 06-29-2008, 01:52 PM   #87
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i tried but didn't work, is 15% off still available?
Thanks

That promotion ended last month! But shoot me an e-mail and I will see what I can do! Ok?

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com
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Old 06-29-2008, 01:53 PM   #88
PERRIN
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Originally Posted by Richie03 View Post
I installed the kit and I have one concern. I can feel the ring and pinion gears meshing in 2nd and 3rd gear right around 3500 rpm. I am wondering if this is normal.

I am wondering if I have installed the front bushings correctly (the 2 largest bushings in the kit. I installed the bushings on top of the support beam and mounted the plates on top but the bushings never seemed to seat flush in the mounting location. They seem to be bulging out. Does anyone think this is causing the gear vibration I am experiencing?

Other then that I love the Perrin SLS!
How do your photos compare to those in the DIY? If you matched those, it should be fine.

PLEASE let us know how we can help further!

Adam.Taft@perrinperformance.com
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Old 07-07-2008, 05:09 PM   #89
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I too just tossed in the Kit.

Install wise, all went well on the bushing part of the task, but when it came time to throw the bolts in....things changed.

I finished up the rear diff bushings, tightened the nuts back up, and went onto installing the two "Lock-down Bolts" (the Grade 12+ Monsters included with the kit.). I put one in the proper hole, tightened by hand for a turn or so, then moved on to handtools. After a few turns I noticed there was no more tightening, just spinning.

So, something broke. I know the hole is not stripped as I had threads going in, and I cannot remove the dangling bolt now. My questions are: were the threads we were utilizing for this kit (the inside of the Factory hole) simply a nut welded onto the other side of the frame? Also, were do I go from here?

Im left with all the bushings installed. One lockout bolt in my hand, and the other dangling(yet not coming out) halfway into the frame.
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Old 07-08-2008, 12:33 AM   #90
PERRIN
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Originally Posted by thewerxracing View Post
I too just tossed in the Kit.

Install wise, all went well on the bushing part of the task, but when it came time to throw the bolts in....things changed.

I finished up the rear diff bushings, tightened the nuts back up, and went onto installing the two "Lock-down Bolts" (the Grade 12+ Monsters included with the kit.). I put one in the proper hole, tightened by hand for a turn or so, then moved on to handtools. After a few turns I noticed there was no more tightening, just spinning.

So, something broke. I know the hole is not stripped as I had threads going in, and I cannot remove the dangling bolt now. My questions are: were the threads we were utilizing for this kit (the inside of the Factory hole) simply a nut welded onto the other side of the frame? Also, were do I go from here?

Im left with all the bushings installed. One lockout bolt in my hand, and the other dangling(yet not coming out) halfway into the frame.
Well that about stinks! But it is a good lesson. These threaded holes are uncovered at the factory and thus subject to all kinds of crud and junk going in there. It is an EXCELLENT installation procedure to clean and possibly chase these threads prior to installation of the supplied bolts. Also, double check them against those supplied in the kit to be sure they match. There can always be an error made, or change in the vehicles as well.

I hope you can get that out of there, cleaned up and back in business ASAP.

Ring Jeff or I tomorrow if we can help in anyway. Thanks again!



ADAM TAFT
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Old 07-08-2008, 04:27 PM   #91
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Hmmm... I guess the whole rear is coming off then.

Wish me luck!
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:16 AM   #92
PERRIN
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Hmmm... I guess the whole rear is coming off then.

Wish me luck!

GOOD LUCK!


ADAM TAFT
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Adam Taft
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Old 07-09-2008, 11:46 AM   #93
thewerxracing
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I still dont understand why this happened. The only reason I can guess is that the Subaru factory threads arent always welded to 100% potential on something they didnt plan on using. I know a weld broke in there, that has to be the situation, but I cant see why other than poor manufacturing. The threads were cleaned with PB Blaster, Simple Green, Brushes and Compressed air. The Bolts threaded in easily until they stopped tightening. Am I losing faith in Subie now...?
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Old 07-10-2008, 10:52 AM   #94
PERRIN
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I still dont understand why this happened. The only reason I can guess is that the Subaru factory threads arent always welded to 100% potential on something they didnt plan on using. I know a weld broke in there, that has to be the situation, but I cant see why other than poor manufacturing. The threads were cleaned with PB Blaster, Simple Green, Brushes and Compressed air. The Bolts threaded in easily until they stopped tightening. Am I losing faith in Subie now...?
Yeah that is just weird. Sorry you had that happen at all!



ADAM TAFT
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Adam Taft
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PERRIN Performance™
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Old 09-18-2008, 12:51 PM   #95
Kurlon
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Any chance of this fitting older Foresters? Say, a 2002?
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Old 09-18-2008, 05:48 PM   #96
PERRIN_Chris
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Originally Posted by Kurlon View Post
Any chance of this fitting older Foresters? Say, a 2002?
Kurlon,

The rear diff cover should fit, but the subframe lockdown won't because the subframe is different. Thanks!
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Old 09-30-2008, 01:43 AM   #97
TheNewThatGuy
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Ok, so I was under my car today and it seems my rear subframe is a little different. I have a 2000 2.5RS with a diff. cover that was there when I bought it. I don't know if that makes a difference, but basically, mine varies, for whatever reason, from both your and my manuals pictures of what it should look like. Where those two center holes in the subframe that are close together are, that's where my bushings are, and how the diff connects to the subframe. I don't have that little "arm" that holds the bushings AT ALL. I'm wondering if these bushings will work for me and was wondering if I back that nut off on mine, is it just a stud that goes into the diff, or what? if so, how do I get your inside rear bushing on the stock bushing? Finally, would anyone be willing to measure those bushings for me so I can see if they'll fit?

That nut is rusted on there dame good, so I kinda want to know what that stud it's holding connects to on the diff, and how... Thanks...


Last edited by TheNewThatGuy; 09-30-2008 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 09-30-2008, 12:58 PM   #98
PERRIN_Chris
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Originally Posted by TheNewThatGuy View Post
Ok, so I was under my car today and it seems my rear subframe is a little different. I have a 2000 2.5RS with a diff. cover that was there when I bought it. I don't know if that makes a difference, but basically, mine varies, for whatever reason, from both your and my manuals pictures of what it should look like. Where those two center holes in the subframe that are close together are, that's where my bushings are, and how the diff connects to the subframe. I don't have that little "arm" that holds the bushings AT ALL. I'm wondering if these bushings will work for me and was wondering if I back that nut off on mine, is it just a stud that goes into the diff, or what? if so, how do I get your inside rear bushing on the stock bushing? Finally, would anyone be willing to measure those bushings for me so I can see if they'll fit?

That nut is rusted on there dame good, so I kinda want to know what that stud it's holding connects to on the diff, and how... Thanks...
I'm 99% sure your car is just like the WRX, but if you could take a few pictures of your car under there we can help you out from there, thanks!
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:34 AM   #99
STI_KLR
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Is that 15% still available? Just curious.

Thanks
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Old 10-15-2008, 03:20 AM   #100
UniqueTII
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Any update on the Legacy GT kit?
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