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Old 07-09-2009, 08:44 AM   #126
BlackJavaPearl04
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaypt802 View Post
yeah the clunk went away with the bolts...surprisingly the lockdown bolts were in on first try i sprayed the holes with wd40 like 10 mins before, the passenger side bolt wasnt going in at first so i removed it cleaned up the threads on the bolt and hole and it was in!!! the NVH noise is bearable its not loud/annoying if you have music playing at a low volume you cant ever hear the noise!!! but you do feel a little bit of vibration, its not enough for me to start complaining, rather the really low NVH than the 1-2 clunk
Yea I just tested mine this morning....I very much like it! The NVH wasnt too bad and since I straight cuts its not like it matters haha. Man what a Biotch those lock down bolts were, i got the drivers side in but for the passengers side i had to go out and buy a tap to clean the threads...after i did that it went in very nicely.
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Old 07-09-2009, 09:59 AM   #127
PERRIN
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^^^ hey guys thanks for the business and for the honest comments here. Really helps other members here on NASIOC!

Let us know if we can ever help further!

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Old 07-09-2009, 12:08 PM   #128
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Originally Posted by BlackJavaPearl04 View Post
Yea I just tested mine this morning....I very much like it! The NVH wasnt too bad and since I straight cuts its not like it matters haha. Man what a Biotch those lock down bolts were, i got the drivers side in but for the passengers side i had to go out and buy a tap to clean the threads...after i did that it went in very nicely.

hahah i had the same thing for somereason my driver side went in...but my passenger side took 2 tries!!!
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:09 AM   #129
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im still stuck with one stud still in my rear. other came out by hand no problem.

passenger sige the jam nut tecnique wont work , i heat it up nothing. put visegripson it nothing. im a big guy and ive pretty much exhausted myself to the point of when i try to twist it off it just smears metal. there are no threads left on it, i fabbed up 2 bolts to go in place of the stud but im stuck.

when i head over to my garage today ill give it a fourth try, if it dont come out i might have to drop the rear
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:01 PM   #130
BlackJavaPearl04
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Originally Posted by wrxej205 View Post
im still stuck with one stud still in my rear. other came out by hand no problem.

passenger sige the jam nut tecnique wont work , i heat it up nothing. put visegripson it nothing. im a big guy and ive pretty much exhausted myself to the point of when i try to twist it off it just smears metal. there are no threads left on it, i fabbed up 2 bolts to go in place of the stud but im stuck.

when i head over to my garage today ill give it a fourth try, if it dont come out i might have to drop the rear
....wow that stud just won budge huh? have you rounded off the double nut on there? as a last resort, before you drop it, you can weld a nut on and use a long wrench to get some good torque and break it loose, of course you will have to purchase a new stud. So heat didn't even work huh?
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:06 PM   #131
wrxej205
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dude nothing worked. nothing. i tried everything it stripped out the one nut when i did the jam nut thing. i think im gonna try and weld one on and get a box end on it like you stated. ive got 2 bolts that work.
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Old 07-24-2009, 03:52 PM   #132
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ok update.

lockout bolts took a few tries battery impactin em in and back out and some pb blaster but they went in. the 2 big red bushings were by far the easiest thing ive done lately with my car. 3 bolts drop the plate (luckily for me the 2 very top plates stuck to the car) put em in and done deal.

overall im pleased with how easy it was.
now just my 0.02$ i think they should include a small wire brush with the kit to clean out those holes.

i used a toothbrush it didnt do jack.
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Old 07-24-2009, 04:06 PM   #133
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wrxej205: Glad you were able to get everything done. Please feel free to PM me with any other questions in the future. Have a great weekend!
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Old 08-13-2009, 02:22 AM   #134
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update: I was thinking that NVH was bearable but it turns out that the noise and the vibration was coming from my rear passenger side tire which had a massive bubble in it, i never realized this until i went for an alignment...so once i got the tire replaced there was absolutely no noise whatsoever....basically there is very little vibration and harshness but no noise at all, and the vibration is only felt in the gas pedal other than that not that much vibration......good job perrin with this kit, so far i have been blown away by all the perrin parts i have, the subframe lockdown and a perrin catless uppipe

Last edited by jaypt802; 08-13-2009 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 08-13-2009, 11:44 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaypt802 View Post
update: I was thinking that NVH was bearable but it turns out that the noise and the vibration was coming from one my rear passenger side tire with had a massive bubble in it never realized this until i went for an alignment...so once i got the tire replaced there was absolutely no noise whatsoever....basically there is very little vibration and harshness but no noise at all, and the vibration is only felt in the gas pedal other than that not that much vibration......good job perrin with this kit, so far i have been blown away by all the perrin parts i have, the subframe lockdown and a perrin catless uppipe
Thanks for the love jaypt802! We always enjoy hearing how much people enjoy our parts. Let us know if we can be of any help!
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Old 11-09-2009, 02:46 PM   #136
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Great Write-Up. I'll need to install my set of these at some point as they don't look THAT difficult to install.
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Old 11-27-2009, 05:27 AM   #137
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Default 1998 Impreza wagon SLS install

I put this set up in my 98 a few days ago. I was able to use the outrigger bushings, and subframe lock bolts with no issues. All I did for the subframe bolt holes was run a tap through the threads, and install bolts with copper anti seize. Those went in without drama.

The tricky part was the actual differential bushings on the rear of the diff. My car dosnt have the diff support, the bushings are actually in the subframe. So I double nutted, pulled out the old studs from the diff, and used the perrin diff bushings between the diff and subframe. 2 of the 4 fit perfectly. The other 2 bushings couldnt be used on the rear of the stock bushings without a washer to hold them in place.. I will track one down, then update. So for the record, you CAN use the rear diff bushings from the Perrin kit, you just need 2 large washers to hold the final 2 poly bushes in place. or skip the washers, and only use 2 of the four diff support bushings...
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:08 AM   #138
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Update: I found the washers needed for the use of the Differential stab bushings on the GF/GC. They are called fender washers, size is 1/2"(refers to the hole in the washer, not the washer itself).

Just a matter of putting the two poly bushings over the existing bushings in the subframe, then the fender washer (one for each bushing at the back of the subframe),
then the nut to hold it all together. Maybe Perrin could add 2 of these washers to their kit??
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Old 11-28-2009, 09:21 PM   #139
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That is cool, could you post up a few pics of what you used? Thanks!
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:43 PM   #140
cdnsigop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRIN_Chris View Post
That is cool, could you post up a few pics of what you used? Thanks!
Sorry for the delay, lots of work going on here. Finished installing the Prothane chassis kit. Did trailing arms last night and shifter bushings today. So much rust from the Canadian winters...

The washers cost $3.50 for the pack of 8 shown. Perrin, it would cost you less than 88 cents to make this kit fit all the GF/GC chassis cars as well! Maybe you could send me a t-shirt for my trouble eh?

Here are the pics of the washers and installed bushings:




Last edited by cdnsigop; 12-01-2009 at 11:17 PM. Reason: Problems uploading pics
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Old 12-02-2009, 01:11 PM   #141
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Nice! That'll work great! I'll send you a T shirt, PM me your size and address and I'll send one your way, thanks!
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Old 12-04-2009, 08:54 PM   #142
classicaddict
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i really wish i had seen this kit before i bought the TiC one..................i spent 2x the price of the perrin kit. to top it all off i really wanted the softer bushings but the "race" version came as a complete kit so it was cheaper. your kits bushings seems to be much more compliant.



also to anyone questioning the bushing inserts instead of useing complete bushings take this for what its worth. the first gen nissan sentra se-r's have 2 engine mount options. solid prothain mounts that need to be installed with a press, or energy suspension inserts that filled the voids of the stock mounts (exactly like perrin here is doing for the wrx diff).

since it was a 16 year old car the OEM mounts were always shot. however useing the ES inserts on new mounts yeilded the same results but with much less NVH.

cliffs notes; what im trying to say is since i cant imagine anyone haveing damaged OEM diff mounts i would say their insert design is superiour for road going cars that want to retain a bit of civility.
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Old 12-12-2009, 09:20 PM   #143
ashleysaturdays
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRINJeff View Post
Ya, those bolts, need to be tightened. In that position the subframe will not be locked down. Just crank'em down!
hmmm...so I cranked both of mine down pretty darn hard and am not able to get the metal bushing totally flush with the subframe. I actually pulled one of them back out just to double check and even with the bolt removed the bushing won't press all the way up in to that hole. there always seems to be a little bit of a gap between the bottom of the bushing and the subframe.
is this right?
thx
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Old 12-14-2009, 08:44 AM   #144
sjoneSi
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Originally Posted by classicaddict View Post
i really wish i had seen this kit before i bought the TiC one..................i spent 2x the price of the perrin kit. to top it all off i really wanted the softer bushings but the "race" version came as a complete kit so it was cheaper. your kits bushings seems to be much more compliant.



also to anyone questioning the bushing inserts instead of useing complete bushings take this for what its worth. the first gen nissan sentra se-r's have 2 engine mount options. solid prothain mounts that need to be installed with a press, or energy suspension inserts that filled the voids of the stock mounts (exactly like perrin here is doing for the wrx diff).

since it was a 16 year old car the OEM mounts were always shot. however useing the ES inserts on new mounts yeilded the same results but with much less NVH.

cliffs notes; what im trying to say is since i cant imagine anyone haveing damaged OEM diff mounts i would say their insert design is superiour for road going cars that want to retain a bit of civility.

I knew guys that had the 02+ si were breaking engine mounts when they would go to a turbo setup b/c of too much torque on the mounts. They also had the ES inserts and would often use them instead of a full on replacement, I don't recall anyone complaining about them. It would be nice to have this option on the impreza platform as well. I've done the subframe and diff bushing inserts on my 09. I'd like to tighten up the rest but don't want to give up a lot in terms of NVH, and I'm afraid that the whiteline stuff might be too hard...

j
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Old 12-17-2009, 07:36 PM   #145
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hmmm...so I cranked both of mine down pretty darn hard and am not able to get the metal bushing totally flush with the subframe. I actually pulled one of them back out just to double check and even with the bolt removed the bushing won't press all the way up in to that hole. there always seems to be a little bit of a gap between the bottom of the bushing and the subframe.
is this right?
thx
There really shouldn't be a gap. First I would try to tighten the bolts to about 80 ft lbs, if there still is a gap, I'd recommend loostening the 4 bolts that hold down the subframe to the chassis and try again to tighten those bolts. It could be the subframe needs to be moved just a little bit to get those bushings to get in there right. Thanks!
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Old 12-18-2009, 10:32 AM   #146
ashleysaturdays
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRIN_Chris View Post
There really shouldn't be a gap. First I would try to tighten the bolts to about 80 ft lbs, if there still is a gap, I'd recommend loostening the 4 bolts that hold down the subframe to the chassis and try again to tighten those bolts. It could be the subframe needs to be moved just a little bit to get those bushings to get in there right. Thanks!
Great. Thanks Chris. I will give that a shot.
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Old 12-18-2009, 06:41 PM   #147
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i FINALLY installed mine...got them at subiefest 07!

it literally took 30 mins and i did it basically blind - it was so dark

the lockdowns did take a bit of time to tighten down and torque...but keep going..my car, being it is from the East coast, was rusted in the holes...made it difficult to turn after awhile...so i backed everything out and put a little penetrating fluid up there to eat some of the rust...worked like a charm....the bushes went in without a hitch!
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Old 12-26-2009, 05:56 PM   #148
cdnsigop
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Got the T-Shirt, thanks Chris!
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Old 12-27-2009, 10:14 PM   #149
wrxsubiemod
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I want a shirt.. and bushings now
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Old 12-29-2009, 02:05 PM   #150
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I've had both one piece and 2 pieces rear differential bushings on my car. Didn't really feel the difference between the two, but 2 piece bushing is easier to install.
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