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Old 01-01-2008, 01:59 PM   #1
StiDreams
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Thumbs up OT Climbers Check In (2008).

Last year we did quite a few day trips. More than I had even hoped for. We even started to climb harder stuff (harder for us).

Last year’s climbs

This year I’m hoping for a breakout year. My climbing partner (Tom) will hopefully have a better year in terms of family issues and we’re planning turning all those day trips into weekend long trips. And if all goes well there might even be a weeklong trip in there somewhere. There are already plans in place for an Mt Whitney trip and four days at Lover’s Leap.

Here are some goals for this year:

Mt Whitney: East Buttress (.7) or East Face (.7), Easy but tall.

Yosemite: East Buttress of Middle Cathedral (.9, A1 or .10c), East Buttress of El Cap (.10b), Fairview Dome Regular Route (.9).

Lover’s Leap: Traveler’s Buttress (.9), The Line (.9), Hospital Corner (.9), and The Gamoke (.9), Psychedelic Tree (.9)

Sugar Loaf: Dominion (.10a), Make That Move Now Baby (.10c), Bolle Gold (.10c),

Some of these are repeats so they shouldn’t be a problem. Many of them are not and I’m a bit nervous about them. These goals are a bit lofty but I’m feeling good about them. There will be many others not listed but these are the ones that are “goals”. But it’s easy to pick them from the comfort of the home office and an entirely different thing to rack up and take the sharp end. Then of course there the whole issue of actually making time for them. And o We got a good ten trips in last year hopefully we can do the same this year but have them be more than just day trips. I'm excited about the coming year.



OT Climbers let’s hear your plans. Don’t forget to update when you actually execute. And don’t forget about the pics. My digicam is being replaced so the old one will now be treated with less care. I’ll try to do more pics this year.
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Last edited by StiDreams; 06-02-2008 at 09:34 AM. Reason: move Psychedelic Tree from the Sugar Loaf list to Lover's Leap
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Old 01-01-2008, 02:01 PM   #2
WRXGuyInUSA
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Why don't you climb some REAL mountains?
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Old 01-01-2008, 02:21 PM   #3
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Which ones do you consider real? The routes on Whitney are "easy" but Iím going to guess that .7 at above 12,000 feet is not going to be cake. On top of all that I'm not sure how good I will be in altitude. I've never been above 10,000 feet.

The "real" ones that have snow and ice on them are a no go for me. I hate the cold. The only reason to be in that kind of cold is because there are ski lifts. I'm a high altitude cold weather sissy. This is what will keep me from becoming a popsicle on things like McKinley, Hood, Shasta, and of course all of the insane mountains everywhere else. Beyond my lack of desire to actually climb in the cold the wife has seen too many of those ďEverestĒ things and says Iím not permitted to involve myself with an ice axe and crampons.

My lack of interest in climbing them does not mean I donít want to hear about them. I love stories about big mountains and often the ensuing epics. If youíre doing big stuff this year please post the stories and pics.
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Old 01-01-2008, 02:55 PM   #4
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Why Stidreams no fishook arete? Great climb if you are going to travel all the way to Lone Pine.
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Old 01-01-2008, 02:58 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StiDreams View Post
Which ones do you consider real? The routes on Whitney are "easy" but I’m going to guess that .7 at above 12,000 feet is not going to be cake. On top of all that I'm not sure how good I will be in altitude. I've never been above 10,000 feet.

The "real" ones that have snow and ice on them are a no go for me. I hate the cold. The only reason to be in that kind of cold is because there are ski lifts. I'm a high altitude cold weather sissy. This is what will keep me from becoming a popsicle on things like McKinley, Hood, Shasta, and of course all of the insane mountains everywhere else. Beyond my lack of desire to actually climb in the cold the wife has seen too many of those “Everest” things and says I’m not permitted to involve myself with an ice axe and crampons.

My lack of interest in climbing them does not mean I don’t want to hear about them. I love stories about big mountains and often the ensuing epics. If you’re doing big stuff this year please post the stories and pics.
Well, being alergic to the cold is probably the best reason...

I don't climb, I was just giving you crap. I watch those Everest shows and think to myself... Why in the HELL would anybody be willing to die, just to say they've been to the top?

That, and it's SOOOO friggin' "touristy" now, with ladders at the hard parts, guides, and oxygen refils every step of the way. Then, you get bottle necks where there's LINES of people waiting to summit... I bet the old school climbers that climbed everest back before all the tourists started climbing, just shake their heads in dissapointment watching shows like that.

Not what it used to be, for sure.
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:30 PM   #6
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I don't know about mountains, but I would like to do some more bouldering. I've played around on some rocks in different parts of the state and had some fun. Plus, if I fall (and I have done that) the trip down is pretty short.
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:33 PM   #7
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i want to get into climbing... how do i get into it?
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:33 PM   #8
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i want to get into climbing... how do i get into it?
Find a rock/mountain/trail...

Climb it.
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:38 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Five.Ten View Post
Why Stidreams no fishook arete? Great climb if you are going to travel all the way to Lone Pine.

Itís under consideration. Iím not sure if Tom is up for it but it looks good. I have to get a look at a full topo for it. Itís one thing to do one .8 pitch or a few .8 moves with a bunch of easy ďalpine pitchesĒ at altitude but itís another thing to have to go all day long on that stuff. Iím feeling good but my partner has had a difficult year with issues that has kept him from being in better shape. Iím going to push for it but not if Tomís not fit.

With a name like Five.Ten you have to have plans for putting rubber to rock. What up for 2008?
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:41 PM   #10
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i want to get into climbing... how do i get into it?
A good place to start is a climbing gym. You can get fundamentals on knots and safety there and itís a good place to meet people that climb. But get outside ASAP, thatís what itís about.
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:44 PM   #11
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Going to lost arrow spire and snake dike and the typical dirtbag bouldering in the owens river gorge. No serious plans yet, my friends here tend to be transient. I have scaled back my climbing to instead risk my life backcountry skiing around the sierras. We are supposed to get 5-8ft this weekend so I probably be shoveling too.
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:50 PM   #12
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Wirelessly posted (Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.01; Windows CE; PPC; 240x320))

i'll be up in denali national park in may putting mt russell under my belt on an 8 day expedition. I'm hoping to be the 8th recorded summit. but we'll see how the weather holds up. lol its a real mt with snow and ice
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:55 PM   #13
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I’m chomping at the bits myself to put some tracks across some snow. I hope you’re right about the storm. Tom has changed his mind about climbing Snake Dike again. If he’s up for it I’m going to take him up on it.

I’m planning on grabbing a bunch of camping days in Upper pines for the late spring and fall. And hopefully get a bunch of days in the Tuolumne camp ground. Hopefully that works out. You know how my plans go. If you’re in the valley a lot PM me and we can split/share a site.
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OriginalSin View Post
Wirelessly posted (Mozilla/4.0 (compatible; MSIE 4.01; Windows CE; PPC; 240x320))

i'll be up in denali national park in may putting mt russell under my belt on an 8 day expedition. I'm hoping to be the 8th recorded summit. but we'll see how the weather holds up. lol its a real mt with snow and ice

No matter the results bring back a trip report and some pics. Best of luck up there. That's not the same playground as yose so climb safe.
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Old 01-01-2008, 03:59 PM   #15
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i'll be up in denali national park in may putting mt russell under my belt on an 8 day expedition. I'm hoping to be the 8th recorded summit. but we'll see how the weather holds up. lol its a real mt with snow and ice
When are you headed there? Winter accent? Good luck.
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Old 01-01-2008, 04:05 PM   #16
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Hey Five.Ten,

Have you been on the Fish Hook? How was it?
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:32 PM   #17
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Check in.

I started climbing in doors last spring while recovering from a broken leg and want to move it outdoors this spring. Currently I'm leading 5.10s in the gym, and have no clue how I'll do outside, should be interesting though. Hopefully my partner and I will be able to hook up with the local climbing club and learn through them instead of spending $300 taking the outdoor course from the gym.

Any other climbers in the DC metro area?
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:41 PM   #18
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I've somewhat gotten out of mountain climbing. I may climb Humphrey's peak in AZ at the Highpointer's annual banquet, but that will probably be it.

Things seemed to be getting overly touristy when I was big into hiking and climbing 15 years ago, and I can't imagine it's any better now.
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:43 PM   #19
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I've somewhat gotten out of mountain climbing. I may climb Humphrey's peak in AZ at the Highpointer's annual banquet, but that will probably be it.

Things seemed to be getting overly touristy when I was big into hiking and climbing 15 years ago, and I can't imagine it's any better now.
i was wondering if you'd at least make a presence in here
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Old 01-02-2008, 01:51 PM   #20
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i was wondering if you'd at least make a presence in here
Yeah, I felt somewhat obliged to make a presence.

Are you flying into the NW Fork of the Kahiltna with everyone else, or are you approaching from somewhere totally different?
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Old 01-02-2008, 02:01 PM   #21
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way off (i meant way off in the distance - not you're way off. sorry)- its pretty far west and you land on the upper yentna glacier. Its not terribly high or long 1-3 days in good weather, but they warn you to bring an 8-10ft wand to mark your campsite because its perfectly reasonable for it to dump 8ft in less than 48hrs. i think its actually around 15-20 miles west of denali and there shouldnt be ANYONE around. hooray! the crux is a crazy bergshund you have to navigate on the back side and then its 65deg ice and snow. and because of the crazy weather everything else changes from yr to yr


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Old 01-04-2008, 07:45 AM   #22
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Just got an email last night that my trip has been moved up to April (3.5 mos) so i guess i should start training and stop drinking so much alcohol.




Last edited by OriginalSin; 01-04-2008 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 03-29-2008, 04:40 PM   #23
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Cool Hey Climbers!

I just joined NASIOC today and I'm pumped to find a climbing post. It seems everyone's from different parts of the US. I've done most of my climbing in the Gunks (NY) and NJ (we climb on the turnpike, ha ha). I took about a year and a half off after climbing pretty regularly 3x a week, but I'm starting up again this spring. I thought I'd include some pics, but I can't figure out how to attach them if they're not from a website - any ideas? I'd love to see other people's climbing pics...bring 'em on!

As far as the question about how to get into climbing...I first climbed with NOLS in Wyoming, then took a few days with EMS, and then I put my name and number on the bulletin board at my nearest climbing gym. 2 months later... I got a call and climbed with my partner for 2 years. I HIGHLY recommend climbing with someone who knows more than you - you will learn so much more than EMS or a book will tell you. Besides, unless you want to boulder it's kinda hard to climb alone....
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Old 03-29-2008, 05:54 PM   #24
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to add pics, you can put them on one of the many free online image hosts such as photobucket or imagestation.
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Old 03-29-2008, 06:10 PM   #25
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I'm still in the gym, but hope to find some time to get outside this year. I've been doing more backpacking/hiking than climbing outside but hopefully we'll get out soon.
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