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Old 05-01-2008, 10:43 PM   #51
scprs
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same things ahppenin with me a went to subaru to get it fixed worked for a day but same prob...over heating (gaskets not blown cause no milkshake)...subaru thought it was an airpocket worked for a day but started to act up again today. Think a leak is possibe somwhere in the hoses thats sukin in air only thing i can think of
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Old 08-16-2008, 12:03 PM   #52
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Do you guys think a bad seal on the coolant cap (the one near the turbo) could cause enough coolant to burn off/evaporate over time such that I have air pockets in my system now? I am going to burp it now, but I noticed the seal on my radiator cap is cut, and there is some kind of crusty substance (dried/burnt coolant?) on the cap. If I had to take a guess I would think my system was slowing loosing coolant because of this cap.

Good excuse for some extra bling under the hood.
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:59 PM   #53
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ok time to bump this thread

last night i installed my mishimoto radiator before reading this thread...so inevitably i got an air pocket and it started to overheat...so i took my car home let it cool down burped the system and started the car up and everything went fine, the thermostat opened and the fans kicked on and it was great...so i shut the car off drove my other car to get some more coolant to top the system off...came back started the car, and now the thermostat won't open, i tried burping it again and let it run with the heater on full blast...and it still wouldn't open...and i let it run for a while the car stayed at a good temp, but still no thermostat...then i started to notice some smoke coming out of the top of the radiator, so i turned off the car, and as soon as i turned it off the o-ring on the drain plug blew and it sprayed coolant out...wtf just happend
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Old 12-23-2008, 01:27 PM   #54
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anyone have any suggestions???
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Old 01-06-2009, 02:31 PM   #55
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smoke or steam out of the top of the radiator?
Maybe your t-stat is in backwards? Or if it is stock, it may have failed (since Subaru OEM fail closed..)
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Old 01-11-2009, 05:34 PM   #56
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I just bought an '02 Impreza wagon with 160,000 miles on it. The first time I tried pushing her, the temp needle started to rise. I checked the coolant, and the reservoir was empty. I topped off both the radiator and the reservoir. the next time I pushed her a bit it started to everheat again acting like it had air in the system. Since my freind had just totaled his outback, and the insurance company hadn't picked it up yet, I swapped radiators with him. It still overheated. So the next day I bought a new OEM thermostat and installed it. after burping the system a couple times and topping off the reservoir, I took her out hoping that the problem would be solved. It wasn't. The weird thing is, the reservoir has now nearly overflowed. I have a feeling one of my head gasket's is blown and forcing exhaust into the cooling system and forcing the coolant into the reservoir. What do you think? is it a head gasket?

P.S. This is my first post on this forum, and I would have made this a new post but I can untill I have three other posts, so I figured this would be as good a place as any to post my problem.
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Old 01-07-2010, 07:43 PM   #57
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Im not an expert but you would probably be able to see an oily film in or on the coolant if it was a head gasket, bad water pump maybe?
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Old 02-21-2010, 07:36 PM   #58
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My car will start to heat up only while going up hill or just so the front is facing upwards. I also noticed that the overflow reservoir is overflowing, About a week ago my fans have cut my upper hose since i installed a koyo radiator so i replaced it with the samco one and filled whatever was needed in the radiator. I had to stop a couple of times today from work scared that it would overheat, When leveled it wont overheat and fans do turn on.
I think there is air in it.
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Old 06-01-2010, 04:12 PM   #59
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So, I just changed the timing belt and water pump along with the pulleys on my 1996 impreza outback 2.2 a few days ago. I also pulled the oil pump off and replaced the O ring as it was leaking along with it being flat instead of round... I resealed the oil pump as well as the water pump. I reused the thermostat as I just replaced it along with the coolant like 4 months back or so.

Here's the catch, I add the coolant and burp the system to get the air out. Then I let it do a heat cycle and took it for a drive to see if there were any problems. Well, the temperature went up probably 10 - 15 degrees and stayed there for a bit. So I drove back to my friends houses and let it cool down for awhile before doing any more work. I drain the fluid and decided to check the used thermostat by putting it in water and bringing it to almost a boil, well the thermostat didn't open, so bad part. I go to Auto Zone and get a new thermostat and put it in there along with the coolant I just drained out as it was still new. I burped the system by letting it idle for 30 seconds then turned it off. I checked and had to add some fluid. I let it do a heat cycle and then headed out for a drive. The temperature went up again but a little more this time like 15 - 20 degrees..hmm.. So, I drive back and leave my car there.

Well, my friend dropped me off at my aunt's house as we all were having a family reunion. 3 days later I go back and drain the fluid. My friend goes to pull the thermostat and finds that I put it in backwards, so he fixes that and puts the coolant back in. I let it run for 30 seconds, then burped it and had to add some coolant. I then let it heat cycle and go out for a drive, I come back and finally the thermostat opens, so far so good. I then headed home, but close to home the temperature goes up maybe 10 degrees but stays there and then goes back to just 5-8 degrees over or so. So I pull into the drive way and check the lower radiator hose and it is cool to the touch while the top hose is very hot. I turned the car off and let it sit over night.

This morning I checked the level and it was a pinch low in the radiator and slightly low in the over flow tank so I filled both. I let it idle for 30 seconds and then burped it and got just a few bubbles. I haven't let it heat cycle yet today as I wanted to call and ask for some ideas of what it could be along with checking the forums here for ideas.

So, my question to you guys, what do you think it could be, did the new thermostat open once and then fail right away? My car isn't burning oil or coolant as there isn't any blue smoke or coolant on the plugs... Other than running a little hotter the few times, it runs fine along with being smoother because of the new timing belt kit
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:28 AM   #60
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before i make my own thread .... i should ask here.

i have bubbles in my coolant, and some how it keeps on coming back. everytime i warm up my car i leave the cap off the fill tank and watch as the bubbles/frothe swirl around and around. i did this for 30 days straight and it keeps on coming back somehow.

according to my uoa:
http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/4...ysise11852.jpg

they said it shouldnt be hg, but possibly a sticking t stat ... just installed a grimmspeed t-stat today and bubbles/frothe are still there

any suggestions/help is appreciated
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Old 06-04-2010, 03:38 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evilchargerfan View Post
before i make my own thread .... i should ask here.

i have bubbles in my coolant, and some how it keeps on coming back. everytime i warm up my car i leave the cap off the fill tank and watch as the bubbles/frothe swirl around and around. i did this for 30 days straight and it keeps on coming back somehow.

according to my uoa:
http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/4...ysise11852.jpg

they said it shouldnt be hg, but possibly a sticking t stat ... just installed a grimmspeed t-stat today and bubbles/frothe are still there

any suggestions/help is appreciated
I am having the same problem, I just bought a new t-stat and it opened fine the first once or twice and now it won't open, piece of crap!!!!!! Seriously...what is up with these stupid t-stats.... I wonder if it has something to do with air getting trapped somewhere in the water pump and gets stuck there when pouring new fluid in?
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Old 06-05-2010, 05:05 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evilchargerfan View Post
before i make my own thread .... i should ask here.

i have bubbles in my coolant, and some how it keeps on coming back. everytime i warm up my car i leave the cap off the fill tank and watch as the bubbles/frothe swirl around and around. i did this for 30 days straight and it keeps on coming back somehow.

according to my uoa:
http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/4...ysise11852.jpg

they said it shouldnt be hg, but possibly a sticking t stat ... just installed a grimmspeed t-stat today and bubbles/frothe are still there

any suggestions/help is appreciated
When you say you leave the fill cap off while warming up, are you talking about the overflow tank or the upper reservoir by the turbo?

If I let my car warm up with the upper reservoir cap off, it expands and spills out.
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Old 06-05-2010, 05:13 PM   #63
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hah I tried the open cap way as well when I put in a new rad and it too spilled out.
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Old 06-05-2010, 05:48 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by SubaruImpreza_power View Post
hah I tried the open cap way as well when I put in a new rad and it too spilled out.
Well then how the hell are people doing it this way?

Does it not spill over until the system is full and air pocket free?

This whole coolant system thing is kicking my ass. Just when I think I understand how it works....I don't

Also, I see people saying they open the radiator cap. How????
If there is coolant in the upper tank, it's just gonna spill out everywhere if you open the radiator cap.
Honestly, am I retarded?!?!
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Old 06-20-2010, 03:07 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motocooney View Post
Well then how the hell are people doing it this way?

Does it not spill over until the system is full and air pocket free?

This whole coolant system thing is kicking my ass. Just when I think I understand how it works....I don't

Also, I see people saying they open the radiator cap. How????
If there is coolant in the upper tank, it's just gonna spill out everywhere if you open the radiator cap.
Honestly, am I retarded?!?!
From what I've been reading, I am pretty sure they mean the endtank (not the near-turbo reservoir) cap. If you were to open it while it was running or still fairly hot, it would theoretically spew. If you open it while it's cool and then start it, it should be fine as it hasn't had a chance to build pressure.
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:20 PM   #66
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Default OMG!!! Thought for sure my engine was messed.

The other day I finally received my car from getting some modifications done, and all was great until I noticed some mild white smoke coming from the exhaust. I didn't think anything of it until that night sitting at idle I saw the Temp. raise past the half way point, I then turned the car off IMMEDIATELY. I waited out for about 5 minutes and restarted the car and saw that the temp was still about half way up.

I drove home put the car in the garage and opened the hood and let the car cool down for about an hour and half. I went back and checked the engine all over and noticed the plastic radiator reservoir was very low, then uncapped the top filler and it was also very low. I then went on line and researched if any damage to the engine occurred. I read several threads on what the symptoms were and then just freaked. I got into my wife's car and drove to Mejers at 2:00a.m. and bought Prestone 50/50 Dex-cool and regular Prestone coolant Dex-cool. I tapped the fluids and let the car run for a few minutes, noticed bubbles in the top filler. I read earlier bubbles means "BLOWN HEAD GASKET" or AIR IN THE SYSTEM" I re-did the process and kept checking and checking for white smoke, high temp or soft radiator hose.

Finally after over an hour or so, as I am revving the engine at 2500 rpm for about 8 minutes the rpm's all of sudden went up and down and I hear a POP! and then the rpm's stabilized. I was 'Oh ****!" I right away got out and checked the hose it was hard as its supposed to be and then went to the exhaust and no smoke or moisture. I did notice a spray of water all over my floor. I looked at the Temp. it was right at the 1/4 mark of "C" which tells me temp was normal. I decided to let the car run for about 20 minutes at idle to see if the temp. rises but it didn't it was still at 1/4 mark. I am guessing my car had some air trapped in the system and after several purges it released the last air bubble, which was the small pop. I will check it after a couple days just to be sure, but for now I am relieved of any concerns.
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:52 PM   #67
Mulder
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Why did you put Dex-Cool in your cooling system? That is a GM-only coolant and is not to be used in other vehicles or mixed with different coolants. To prevent long-term issues you need to do a full flush immediately and refill the system with the proper coolant.
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Old 09-26-2010, 12:59 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scout01 View Post
The other day I finally received my car from getting some modifications done, and all was great until I noticed some mild white smoke coming from the exhaust. I didn't think anything of it until that night sitting at idle I saw the Temp. raise past the half way point, I then turned the car off IMMEDIATELY. I waited out for about 5 minutes and restarted the car and saw that the temp was still about half way up.

I drove home put the car in the garage and opened the hood and let the car cool down for about an hour and half. I went back and checked the engine all over and noticed the plastic radiator reservoir was very low, then uncapped the top filler and it was also very low. I then went on line and researched if any damage to the engine occurred. I read several threads on what the symptoms were and then just freaked. I got into my wife's car and drove to Mejers at 2:00a.m. and bought Prestone 50/50 Dex-cool and regular Prestone coolant Dex-cool. I tapped the fluids and let the car run for a few minutes, noticed bubbles in the top filler. I read earlier bubbles means "BLOWN HEAD GASKET" or AIR IN THE SYSTEM" I re-did the process and kept checking and checking for white smoke, high temp or soft radiator hose.

Finally after over an hour or so, as I am revving the engine at 2500 rpm for about 8 minutes the rpm's all of sudden went up and down and I hear a POP! and then the rpm's stabilized. I was 'Oh ****!" I right away got out and checked the hose it was hard as its supposed to be and then went to the exhaust and no smoke or moisture. I did notice a spray of water all over my floor. I looked at the Temp. it was right at the 1/4 mark of "C" which tells me temp was normal. I decided to let the car run for about 20 minutes at idle to see if the temp. rises but it didn't it was still at 1/4 mark. I am guessing my car had some air trapped in the system and after several purges it released the last air bubble, which was the small pop. I will check it after a couple days just to be sure, but for now I am relieved of any concerns.
get ready for little boogers floating around your coolant, do a flush.
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Old 10-03-2010, 10:41 AM   #69
VIsubi
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I ended up using a breather can as the overflow since intercooler on my N/A required the removal of it. My question is why when car is on and running does the overflow line keep expelling coolant causing my radiator to go dry. Is this a falty radiator cap or just breather can is to small. It's a greddy type s breather can. All lines are blocked in except the bottom which will go back to radiator thru suction and top as a vent. But all it vents is coolant.
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Old 12-26-2010, 12:20 AM   #70
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Recently bought a 2.5 TS 2005 with 35,000 Miles on it just noticed this:

When I am driving on the highway at about 75mph for about 50miles or longer I have noticed the the engine temperature go up, starting to overheat. This is usually after I have been running the heat for a while then shut it off and turn the temp down to half way between cold and hot, then a while after i do that the engine temp starts going up. I can get the engine temp gauge to go down to normal as soon as I turn the temp to full hot (i don't need to turn the heat on at all though, blower set to 0).
When this happens I check the engine bay and on the coolant overflow reservoir side there is coolant spilt and splashed on the plastic skid guard, subframe, and all around.
It seems like it is leaking from the bottom of the overflow tank (the top of it is always dry) but it only leaks when driving for extended periods of time and higher speeds, so i don't think there is a crack or anything (nothing that i can find)
I cannot find any leaks anywhere on the radiator or the radiator hoses.

I have thought that maybe there were air pockets in the coolant system so i blurped it for about 10 minutes (after leaving the engine off and parked for an hour or so), but drove another 70 miles on the highway and about 60 miles into it the same thing happened but not as badly.

I will try to blurp/bleed the system again for a longer period of time and get the front end up in the air (i have heard that helps).

But other than air pockets does anyone have any ideas/suggestions on this?
I can't find any thing around the radiator or cylinder heads, the coolant is the correct color and not murky nor is there any signs of sludge or any oil getting in the system or anything that would suggest otherwise there was something wrong and the car runs perfectly at all other times...
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Old 12-26-2010, 12:31 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exigex View Post
Recently bought a 2.5 TS 2005 with 35,000 Miles on it just noticed this:

When I am driving on the highway at about 75mph for about 50miles or longer I have noticed the the engine temperature go up, starting to overheat. This is usually after I have been running the heat for a while then shut it off and turn the temp down to half way between cold and hot, then a while after i do that the engine temp starts going up. I can get the engine temp gauge to go down to normal as soon as I turn the temp to full hot (i don't need to turn the heat on at all though, blower set to 0).
When this happens I check the engine bay and on the coolant overflow reservoir side there is coolant spilt and splashed on the plastic skid guard, subframe, and all around.
It seems like it is leaking from the bottom of the overflow tank (the top of it is always dry) but it only leaks when driving for extended periods of time and higher speeds, so i don't think there is a crack or anything (nothing that i can find)
I cannot find any leaks anywhere on the radiator or the radiator hoses.

I have thought that maybe there were air pockets in the coolant system so i blurped it for about 10 minutes (after leaving the engine off and parked for an hour or so), but drove another 70 miles on the highway and about 60 miles into it the same thing happened but not as badly.

I will try to blurp/bleed the system again for a longer period of time and get the front end up in the air (i have heard that helps).

But other than air pockets does anyone have any ideas/suggestions on this?
I can't find any thing around the radiator or cylinder heads, the coolant is the correct color and not murky nor is there any signs of sludge or any oil getting in the system or anything that would suggest otherwise there was something wrong and the car runs perfectly at all other times...
I find it most effective to burp the system while it is at operating temp. Once it hits operating temp, just keep adding coolant until you top it off. Should take about 10 minutes depending on how much coolant isn't there.
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Old 12-26-2010, 12:37 AM   #72
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what is weird is that the coolant is a little above the low mark in the reservoir, so i didn't think it lost much coolant to need refilling. don't know if it needs to be toped off, should i just run the engine till it warms up then take the radiator cap off and fill and blurp it till the coolant level at the neck stays at a consistent level and put the cap back on?
and i have never changed the coolant in this as i have only had it for 200 miles, so i'm guessing the dealer or previous owner screwed up the bleeding process or something...

i am going to blurp the system tomorrow
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Old 12-26-2010, 03:13 AM   #73
subi400
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There has to be an easier way of burping the system!! This has been a problem for too many people and someone needs to come up with why this is happening so much.

Also, I wonder if there is a spot in the heater core that air can get trapped in and cause a drop in pressure or similar problems such as over heating and a sudden surge in coolant after driving for awhile?
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Old 12-26-2010, 03:38 AM   #74
crzyasian
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good way ive found out, while working nissan vehicles, is to remove the coolant reservoir/expansion tank and hang it from the hood. then jack up the front of the vehicle. add your coolant into the tank until it no longer needs coolant. start the vehicle and run it till u no longer see any more bubbles coming from the tank. be sure to massage the coolant hoses.

this way allows pressure to be still present on the system and allowing the air bubbles to run to an elevated position.

the issue with topping off the system from the radiator cap is that there is no pressure to the system, thus not allowing trapped air bubbles to b pushed out.
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Old 12-31-2010, 07:11 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyH View Post
For a location near you that accepts coolant for recyling, go here:
http://www.earth911.org/master.asp?s=ls&serviceid=1

Enter your ZIP code and on the results page(s) look for locations that accept "antifreeze".
The Earth911 search tool also works for some Canadian locations.

Keyword: Canada
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