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Old 01-07-2011, 02:30 PM   #76
NYJets
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Sorry to bring this thread back but I have been searching and searching ALL over the internet.

I am having some serious issues burping this 05 WRX 88k.

The only thing that differs me is that I have no heat in the cab at all!

I flushed the heater core, came out clean fully.

Brand new Subaru brand thermostat, coolant, conditioner, mixed with distilled.

I get car hot, put funnel in top turbo res., fills up the funnel, and sucks it in. Massaging all hoses, bleeding every way possible.

Heat gets hot at idle, temp stays normal. The when I drive it everything same, and when I come back to a stop at idle, I LOSE heat and temp guage goes UP.

Please somebody help me, I have been all over different Subaru forums to no avail. I have trying burping it everyway i have read, tried 3 different thermostats, ad Have drained it multiple times.

Thank you,
Cody
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Old 03-04-2011, 10:34 PM   #77
wombatsauce
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I am having a similar problem with a 1998 2.5RS I just bought. It seems to burp fine per the SOA manual and then after doing that twice and watching the level settle in the reservoir over night, take it for a drive and around 20minutes you lose heat in the vents, temp gauge shoots up and the last time the reservoir overfilled and overflowed. As it cooled it sucked all the coolant back into the system - sucked the reservoir dry. I have no idea what is going on.

I drove it around 250 miles with no problems and then decided to change the coolant and the thermostat. The "coolant" looked like crap and the thermostat was physically broken. I replaced all with Subaru parts, and today replaced the radiator cap.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:22 AM   #78
NYJets
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Well I have done everything in my power and knowledge to fix it, no avail. Brought it this morning to the shop for a water pump, machine flush, and along with that timing belt/tensioner and plugs....
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Old 04-13-2011, 10:43 AM   #79
exigex
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how does this sound (2005 2.5RS with 37,000 miles):
Drive the car for 60 miles on the highway with inside temp set to cold and the car runs perfectly, engine temp right were it is supposed to be.
Ride home at night 60 miles on the highway with the inside temp of the car all the way in the hot position and the car runs perfectly with engine temp were it is supposed to be.
then when i pull onto my road i turn the inside temperature to all the way cold inside the car and pull into my driveway and by the time i open the garage and pull in the engine temp is going up fast and the coolant overflow is boiling over.
i shut the car off and open the hood and hear the coolant being sucked back out of the overflow tank rapidly, can actually see the top radiator hose compress and decompress slightly as it is moving a lot of coolant fast.

so the only time the engine temp rises and coolant boils over is when the temperature inside the car is changed from hot to cold, except for the the car runs perfectly all the time, what would cause this a faulty thermostat?

I am going to flush the coolant system, new thermostat, new hoses, and new radiator cap soon.
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Old 04-13-2011, 09:16 PM   #80
silver2004impreza
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Personally, I use an Airlift when I have to do cooling system work. If you do this kind of work for a living, it's worth it's weight in gold. The gauge on it measures vacuum.

Last edited by silver2004impreza; 04-13-2011 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Found a better video
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Old 04-14-2011, 09:59 AM   #81
NYJets
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Radiator caps!!!

I posted this on another forum. Please see:

Just saved about 1500$ and one large(r) headache. Heres the story...

About a month ago, driving my 05 WRX (exhaust, STI turbo/IC, intake, injectors, 90k). I was driving up a pretty good hill, and at the top I see my temp gauge spike to the red. I cool down, bring home, and next day I do thermostat/rad flush, all with name brand parts/subaru spec. Had a hell of a time(to put it nicely) trying to bleed system, driving myself nuts. Finally seem to get it right and driving about 2 wks...no problems.

Then car does it again. temp gauge does what it wants, mostly going up on hills and at idle after a drive, and heat in cab comes and goes as it pleases. Pushes water in reservoir tank, sucks it dry. Had system pressure tested and it fine.

Stress level at a maximum now. So i decide to go ahead and have a mechanic do water pump, timing belt, flush and check what he can. $980 later car seems fine from shop, till i get it home. Pulls same stunt.

At this point I am thinking headgasket. Not fun. At all.

I had some radiator caps ordered from Subaru (btw $35 for the two, holy hell).

I put them on and BAM, problem fixed(as of now).

LESSON:

If your having overheating problems, CHECK YOUR RADIATOR CAPS!!


I do still have some problems with my gauge acting funky, usually after a drive it bounces a bit and moves up, and sometimes on hills. My guess would either be the sender got messed up somewhere in the process, or it is airbound somewhere in the system. I personally think subaru was completely retarded when designing the cooling system with no actual bleeder or anything of the sort.
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Old 07-15-2011, 04:24 PM   #82
jonyblaze87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYJets View Post
Radiator caps!!!

I posted this on another forum. Please see:

Just saved about 1500$ and one large(r) headache. Heres the story...

About a month ago, driving my 05 WRX (exhaust, STI turbo/IC, intake, injectors, 90k). I was driving up a pretty good hill, and at the top I see my temp gauge spike to the red. I cool down, bring home, and next day I do thermostat/rad flush, all with name brand parts/subaru spec. Had a hell of a time(to put it nicely) trying to bleed system, driving myself nuts. Finally seem to get it right and driving about 2 wks...no problems.

Then car does it again. temp gauge does what it wants, mostly going up on hills and at idle after a drive, and heat in cab comes and goes as it pleases. Pushes water in reservoir tank, sucks it dry. Had system pressure tested and it fine.

Stress level at a maximum now. So i decide to go ahead and have a mechanic do water pump, timing belt, flush and check what he can. $980 later car seems fine from shop, till i get it home. Pulls same stunt.

At this point I am thinking headgasket. Not fun. At all.

I had some radiator caps ordered from Subaru (btw $35 for the two, holy hell).

I put them on and BAM, problem fixed(as of now).

LESSON:

If your having overheating problems, CHECK YOUR RADIATOR CAPS!!


I do still have some problems with my gauge acting funky, usually after a drive it bounces a bit and moves up, and sometimes on hills. My guess would either be the sender got messed up somewhere in the process, or it is airbound somewhere in the system. I personally think subaru was completely retarded when designing the cooling system with no actual bleeder or anything of the sort.

i had a similar problem to what your explaining ans simultaneously i had some hairline fractures in my radiator housing. so i when with a full aluminum mishimoto replacement, new thermostat and new rad caps... everything runs a bit cooler and much better, haven't had any issues
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:03 PM   #83
rally me
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DON'T GIVE UP! KEEP MASSAGING YOUR HOSES UNTIL YOU GET ALL OF THE AIR OUT! IT MAY TAKE A VERY LONG TIME!!

my upper radiator hose failed so i replaced it. the temperature still was not in the norm. only after doing a breif search did i find this little nugget of information. thanks. after all the years this site still rocks
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Old 08-29-2011, 11:30 AM   #84
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Snap your throttle while the cap is off it shouldn't take you more than 10 minutes or so
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Old 08-29-2011, 02:05 PM   #85
NewShockerGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rally me View Post
DON'T GIVE UP! KEEP MASSAGING YOUR HOSES UNTIL YOU GET ALL OF THE AIR OUT! IT MAY TAKE A VERY LONG TIME!!

my upper radiator hose failed so i replaced it. the temperature still was not in the norm. only after doing a breif search did i find this little nugget of information. thanks. after all the years this site still rocks
Plus this.

I just fully flushed the my entire coolant and this is what I did.

Fill up the entire fill spout with coolant. Once that's done I filled up the actual radiator with coolant. Put the cap back on the rad and then started to sqeeze the top coolant hose. This cause the fill resovoir to burb and then sink/drop coolant level. Keep filling and burping... etc. It will get to the point where the upper rad hose is completely filled with coolant at which point the fill res will no longer drop in coolant. Turn the car on... as it heats up you will see that the coolant starts to raise in the fill resorvior... as soon as it starts to come out of the actual resovoir I cap it and tighten it down... At which point I let the car run until the fans kick on. Shut the car off and then check the overflow tank. Make sure it's at FULL and then I am done.

I've NEVER had an issue with air in the system at all by doing this method. I've done this at least 7 times now and each time it is the same and I never have to try and get trapped air out because there isn't any.

Hope this helps with some issues that people have.

-Nigel
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:30 AM   #86
subaru_sti_steve
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Or you can use a speciality tool called a radiator air lift tool to put cooling system under vacuum and open valve and bam automatically sucks in coolant and no air bubbles
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Old 08-30-2011, 02:40 AM   #87
Evilchargerfan
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^^^ how much does one of those run?
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Old 08-31-2011, 02:15 PM   #88
TommyAtomic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subaru_sti_steve View Post
Or you can use a speciality tool called a radiator air lift tool to put cooling system under vacuum and open valve and bam automatically sucks in coolant and no air bubbles
A radiator air lift tool sounds keen but probably expensive. Plus the cost of the air compressor to drive it unless you already have one. I use a $.99 small blue funnel. I have customized this funnel for this specific purpose by cutting the neck short so it doesnt extend overly far into the coolant box. I place the funnel in the rad cap hole and as I squeeze the rad hose coolant goes up the funnel; air comes out. I release the rad hose; coolant goes back down the funnel sans air bubbles. This allows me to burp the coolant system completely free of air without spilling by merely by repeatedly squeezing the rad hose for about 15 minutes. One trick I have found is to turn the engine off every 5 minutes, burp the coolant and then restart the car. This allows more air to work its way out of the system because air cannot float to the surface very easily when the water pump is pulling it down. It will collect in a location in the coolant system until waterpump stops then it will try to float to the surface. As the coolant heats up the air bubbles expand allowing some of them to escape.

My GF8 has a similar joylessly designed single cap waterbox coolant system to the GD ej20. It is such a joyless design because without a Rad cap on the radiator its damn difficult to make sure the system is free of air.

I also have a tale of warning. I recently replaced the turbo on my wrx. I replaced it because the seals went bad and were pushing compressed air from the turbo into the coolant lines. This was causing excessive pressure to form in the coolant system which was causing an overheating issue. It would begin to overheat everytime I would run any amount of boost and the top rad hose would have so much pressure it would be rock hard. Initially the issue occured running over 5psi of boost and then escalated to running any amount of boost.

The failed turbo in question was some kind of custom ported job that previous owner installed prior to me owning the car. Likely an ebay special because it lacks manufacturer and model stamps on the housings. The new turbo is a ported oem with nice mitsubushi stamps.

As soon as I replaced it my overheating issues went away. Air expands from heat far more quickly than coolant. Introducing bonus air to the coolant system fracks everything right up.

FYI

Synopsis:
$.99 small funnel good. bogus crap ebay turbo bad.

Last edited by TommyAtomic; 08-31-2011 at 02:31 PM.
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Old 09-04-2011, 04:56 PM   #89
Mikal92
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as said before im with check the cap
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Old 12-29-2013, 07:58 PM   #90
bwc
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my radiator is lowering the water, do not have any leaks. could be the radiator cap?
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:27 PM   #91
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Could be HG.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:00 AM   #92
Jgilbs06
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I would put it up on ramps or stands and rev your engine leave it on the stands if possible overnight. YOu should have no air in the system when you are done. Worked for me yesterday when I was flushing coolant.
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Old 01-09-2014, 08:18 AM   #93
bwc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 25rsti View Post
Could be HG.
headgasket?
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