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Old 01-15-2008, 07:56 PM   #51
drewwrxrogers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Hitter View Post
^^ I'm planning to do just that but I want to blow up my engine first.....

I really hate to pull out a prefectly running stock 2.0 block
yes but its worth something in one peice
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:04 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by drewwrxrogers View Post
yes but its worth something in one peice

Especially to those of us who need a 2.0 block for a 2.2 build
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:06 PM   #53
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Especially to those of us who need a 2.0 block for a 2.2 build
Ive got an ej22t shortblock that's next in line..
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:30 PM   #54
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OP - Scott is a very capable tuner. Just tell him you want a conservative tune and make sure you have everything buttoned up before you go to maximize tuning time and then profit.

Like many have said and it just can't be stated enough. Use a good oil. Change it often and check it every time you fill up.
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Old 01-15-2008, 08:31 PM   #55
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Hey Josh, you need a blow-off valve and an STi wing. Otherwise GTFO!
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:21 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by ride5000 View Post
why would you think that?
i live in the bahamas and i know in the caribbean it is easier and cheaper to get cars from japan, as in japan alot of caribbean countries drive on the left (yes i know, odd) hence the assumption that its an ej207.

i am sure you know this and am only adding this in case you dont but an ej207 is ALOT stronger than an ej205 and is designed to rev to its 8krpm redline. it has fully forged internals are are good for about 450whp safely. i know several people that just strap on a gt30 onto these motors and set it(tune it) and forget it. the motors are still running strong making alot of hp on stock internals with alot of miles on them. also the jdm 6speed is well like the usdm 6speed, very strong.
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Old 01-15-2008, 09:35 PM   #57
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At what point would you need bigger injectors than STi pinks? Say on like a 16G turbo that doesnt run more than 20psi, would you need more than 565cc?
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:18 PM   #58
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^^Thats a question you should ask your tuner

FWIW, i run 630cc injectors on 21 psi..

adbramsay is thinking the same exact thing i am.....v7 ej207 swap!
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:47 PM   #59
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i run modded stockers that flow out to 860cc's. i think 650's are the minimum for a 16g to get the most out of it.
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:09 AM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmhubbard01 View Post
OP - Scott is a very capable tuner. Just tell him you want a conservative tune and make sure you have everything buttoned up before you go to maximize tuning time and then profit.

Like many have said and it just can't be stated enough. Use a good oil. Change it often and check it every time you fill up.
I use Mobil 1 synthetic. Is that good? any other recco.'s?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiosavvy View Post
Hey Josh, you need a blow-off valve and an STi wing. Otherwise GTFO!
LMAO!!!
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:04 AM   #61
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Really good info in this thread.

I have been considering doing some of these mods thanks for the help guys.
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:09 AM   #62
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just sent TopSpeed a message to get their take on it. I'll post up whatever info I get back. I know they've done this exact thing several times but, of course, that doens't mean it's right for me. So I've let them know I want a good tune that will yield nice gains but stay in the safe zone. I understand a lot of that has to do with how it's driven and maintained so let's just trust me on this one and say that's a given.
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:11 AM   #63
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A good tune really means a lot.....

I've spoken with Scott at length before, and he showed me a couple of V39 upgraded 2.0 WRXs in the shop pushing up towards 150,000 miles that were still running great. Treated right, you might be surprised by how far the 16g will go.

That being, said, I'll admit to being nervous about my planned turbo upgrade. I'm still gathering parts, but since I'd like to see my car hit 150,000 (I'm currently sitting at 73,000), I'm afraid to move past a protuned VF39 setup. Even at that, After the upgrade is done I plan to buy a used 2.5 short block to keep around just in case. Maybe I'm just being paranoid, though. Based on some of the (VERY helpful) info in this thread, it appears so....
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:14 AM   #64
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better to be safe than sorry. What part of ATL are you from? I moved from there about 4 years ago but spent most of my life there.
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:18 AM   #65
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I'm down here near the ghetto parts of south Atlanta (the East Point/ College Park areas). I've lived here about two years, and I like it alright. I grew up out in the sticks of Tennessee, though, and I kind of miss it.
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Old 01-16-2008, 09:33 AM   #66
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man, I bet you do miss the sticks. I was up on the NE side of ATL in Gwinnett Co. Lawrenceville/Snellville area? Familiar with that at all?
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:15 AM   #67
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Actually, several member's of my wife's family live there, and I ALMOST took a job up there. Sometimes I wish I did.... but we moved where we are in an attempt to catch an area as property values were going up and maybe make a profit off of our home in five or so years. As luck would have it, the housing market slowed down within months of our purchase. On the bright side, I have a close commute to work, at least.

On the other hand, this is a HORRIBLE place to own a tuned WRX. Daily driving is an exercise in frustration... anytime you get on the gas, you can be assured that some ghetto pos will pull out in front of you, cut you off, or just flat out run into you. I'd kill to be able to drive five minutes out and be on a desolate, curving two lane again. Ahhhhhh.... and to be able to drive to the "dragon" and back home again in one day. I'm gonna get out of the city again at some point.

You miss GA much? If you were further outside of Atlanta, I can see how it could be a really nice place to live.
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Old 01-16-2008, 10:53 AM   #68
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To be honest man, no. Not at all. I enjoy the slower paced lifestyle around here. I don't miss the traffic around ATL and Gwinnett was already over-populated when I left and even more so now. All the "fun" things to do in ATL are old to me so there's nothing about it that I miss. I tell you what though, while I'd NEVER trade the traffic here vs. there, I'd most certainly trade SC drivers for ATL ones. At least in ATL when someone cuts you off they're being pricks and know what they're doing. People around here are OBLIVIOUS to everything going on outside of their car. It's ridiculous.
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Old 01-16-2008, 02:48 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeldingHank View Post
i think 650's are the minimum for a 16g to get the most out of it.

The pinks are perfect for the 16G. To use those big-ass modded stockers (I had some modded at 830) you have to use a wideband 02 sensor to tune properly, so you will spend more. I sold my modded stockers, bought some pinks, and will save $200 more
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Old 01-16-2008, 02:51 PM   #70
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Originally Posted by smurfwrx View Post
I use Mobil 1 synthetic. Is that good? any other recco.'s?

M1 has a tendency to shear pretty badly. I used M1 Syn10w40, and have been happier now that I switched to Royal Purple Syn10w40, and it's not really much more expensive (at least round these parts). I also had magical disappearing oil with the M1, which does not inspire much confidence
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Old 01-16-2008, 03:10 PM   #71
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if you want to use mobile oil their newest formulations are the ones to go with (the 3000 mile blend, 6000 mile blend etc)....

If you look on Bob is the oil guy (BOTIG) there are numberous UOA's (used oil analysis) for our cars with all different types of oils. That is where you want to start. Next oil change, capture a sample and mail it out with 20 bucks to blackstone labs. It will give you a complete (almost) analysis of your oil. If you want to go an extra step (or you find something unusual with your UOA) you can have Terry Dyson do an independent analysis. He will then recommend the best oil, oil filter, air filter, oil additive to use based on the UOA. Keep on doing UOA's to study trends of particulates in your oil....it is more important to study the trends of the UOA over study one particular UOA.
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Old 01-16-2008, 03:15 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiosavvy View Post
M1 has a tendency to shear pretty badly. I used M1 Syn10w40, and have been happier now that I switched to Royal Purple Syn10w40, and it's not really much more expensive (at least round these parts). I also had magical disappearing oil with the M1, which does not inspire much confidence

Good to know. Well..... I'll be drinking Royal Purple from now on . I had no idea. I thought M1 was quality stuff. I guess it probably is for a regular ole grocery getter but something you're trying to squeeze every pony out of, not so much.
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Old 01-16-2008, 04:48 PM   #73
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some of us have been using mobil 1 since the 1st oil change, and our cars are still in perfect order.
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Old 01-16-2008, 07:33 PM   #74
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^^ delvac truck formula?? Or just regular ol mobile 1 syn 10w-30?
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:11 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by shootinsoobie View Post
think of it this a way. stock= restrictions= reliable

no restrictions= fun= bigger turbo= not so reliable.

there is no "hit this amount of miles and your car goes boom", but it is safe to say from past owners that our little 2.slows rarely make it past said named benchmark with those types of mods.

im at 60k now stg2- ic hoses, short ram, header, UP, DP, Exhaust, ECUtek road tune. i dont kill my motor at all and expect it to be good for over 100k, if i keep it that long.

it seems the bearings in our motors are the crap point, due to improper oil levels.

think maybe vf series turbo, that will be more reliable than the evo III, but not as fun.

up to you man, your car, yourr rules. good luck!
well said
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