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Old 07-12-2011, 01:32 PM   #1
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
02 Forester S

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A thread to collect some info on my WRX, sticking to chronological order as best possible. My "point" is to remain somewhat functional minded but also try ideas, make mistakes, learn, and have some fun while I'm at it. This is not my daily driver. I'm older and have a decent job so I can tinker when I get "rare" free time. I don't expect this WRX to be everyone's cup of tea. I tend to steer away from current trends and car show fluff. I use a cell phone for photos since actually working on the car is my focus. And I don't have time to be waving at everyone that I don't actually know. Surface level I may be gruff but under there I am told there is an alright guy.
Since it's my car, my interest, and my hobby.....it is what it is. Enjoy.

May 2015 Parts in hand and maybe we'll get this thing bolted back together soon. I really need to think more about these winter upgrades that take longer than expected now.


2006 Impreza WRX Limited - Steel Gray Metallic color #26d Read this IPASS Jesse......



Suspension Related:
05 STi struts
.....FEAL rebuilt inserts Tarmac spec
.....front/rear SS zerks and Mobil1 grease *eventually another grease*
RCE regular guy "black" springs
Subaru GroupN front strut tops
Subaru GroupN rear strut tops *GpN rear tophats are not enough gain over OEM rear tophats*
.....1/4" rear strut spacers and some gasket material
05 STI front control arms
.....caster adding type
.....flipped transverse pins
Whiteline Roll Correction Kit
Whiteline AntiLift Kit KCA362 (comfort version) *replacing with homebrew combo of OEM parts*
Whiteline 24mm adjustable front BSF33XZ anti roll bar *probably have to move to BSF36XZ*
OEM front end links are still hanging in there
McMaster Carr 24mm alloy shaft collars (capscrews replaced with SS)
Whiteline 24mm adjustable rear BSR37XZ anti roll bar
05 STI alloy rear Lateral Links
.....STI GroupN lateral link bushings (inners and outers)
Timken (NTN) rear wheel bearings re-greased with NEO HP800
STI GroupN trailing arm rear bushings
STI GroupN trailing arm front bushings
Powder Coated (semi gloss black) parts
.....05 STI strut housings
.....06 STI rear knuckles
.....rear trailing arms
Power Coated (Bengal silver) parts
.....05 STI alloy lateral links
.....05 STI front control arms


Chassis Related:
05 STI rear cross member w/ solid chassis mounts
.....Kartboy "Botox" subframe lock bolts *unneeded but I had them*
.....TiC rear differential bushings (race version) *wanted GpN but had these already*
STI GroupN rear diff support (outrigger) bushings
TiC transmission cross member bushings
Oswald Performance front subframe 05 version - black
04 STI front cross member
.....06 cross member brace
Q-rack
.....Q-rack allot mounts
.....cut up OEM rubber steering rack bushings
.....STI solid steering joint
KNS DBA Gravel Spec front and rear rotors
Stoptech Street Performance front and rear pads
Oswald Performance rear cross brace - gunmetal
Powder Coated (semi gloss black) parts
.....05 STI rear crossmember
.....06 WRX rear diff support (outrigger)
.....various brackets and covers


Wheel/Tire Related:
TR Motorsports MT1 17"x8.5" +48 5x114.3 wheels
.....Dunlop oem 235/45/17 tires
12 x 1.25 Chrome McGard bulge lug nuts
17"x4" 5x114.3 temporary wheel
.....135/80/17 temporary tire


Body Related:
slightly rolled rear fender lips to clear rear tires
Rennmetal rear tow hook - red
07 STi Limited center console and trim rings
05 STI shift lever trim ring
Lathewerks 6MT bead blasted & pattern etched Ti sphere shift knob
07 STi steering wheel and airbag
07 STi e-brake lever
Rally Armor classic mudflaps (black/black) *getting sort of twisty*
Hella supertone horns
.....stainless bolts/nuts
06 STi under aero panels
06 STi rear diffuser panel and brackets
AEM UEGO meter in ashtray location
Defi v2 control unit
Link 52mm black boost meter (psi)
Link 52mm black oil pressure meter (psi)
SMY Clustermaker dual bezel
35% window tinting
Sound dampening work in front doors, rear doors, rear deck
.....BXII
.....P&S ensolite
Alpine 6.5" component front speakers
.....Paranoid speaker spacers
Pioneer P4200-DVD headunit
STi Ltd red hazard switch
S204 HVAC dial rings


Powertrain Related:
Borla "hush" cat back exhaust
Cobb Accessport v2b
Crawford AOS v2 TMIC location
Killer B oil baffle plate, oil pickup tube, and alloy oil pan
.....Dimple magnetic plug
'04 (late) STi 6MT trans
.....Quaife front LSD differential
.....Rallispec High speed gear set
05 STI R180 3.90 plated rear diff
.....Dimple magnetic drain plug
DCCDpro Uni controller
.....OEM DCCD roller and manual switches
ACT SB4-HDSS 6MT clutch kit
.....oem throw out bearing
.....resurfaced oem 6MT flywheel
Kartboy 6MT short shift lever
Kartboy shift stay bushings (front and rear)
TiC STi shift pivot bushings
05 STi driveshaft
Subaru GroupN engine mounts
Subaru GroupN competition 6MT mount *stiffer than GroupN*
Power Coated (Bengal silver) parts
.....R180 rear cover


Maintenance Related:
engine oil - Shell T6 5W-40
6MT trans fluid - Motul 300
R180 (plated) rear diff fluid - Motul 90PA
Valvoline "parts store" brake fluid
Dupont Krytox grease (ARB bushings)


Projects up next:
install Q-rack rack, 04 STI cross member, PS cooler.
modified front knuckle with built in neg camber.
install new dash cluster and different DCCD control unit.
Different 3" cat back with built in flex, switch bolt flanges for Vbands.
install the Oswald Performance front and rear bumper cores.
install Auto I/C Spray switch with boost switch
install JDM folding motors
.....installed with my heated side mirrors
install JDM folding mirror switch *why not*
.....installed into my RHS door trim
Minor body work, new front bumper, and some paint TLC.
install V-Limited replica front lip
.....VLtd emblem
install Ureshi-replica rear window spoiler (matte black)
install Subaru sport mesh grill inserts
debating RA-R rear wing (matte black) *I just like that style*
debating rear diffuser (matte black) *Mature CF or I'll just make my own from CF/Aramid*


out:
Whiteline HD rear end links KLC26
.....rebuilt with new W0008 bushings, custom SS crush tubes, SS hardware, and Krytox
Whiteline 24mm adjustable rear BSR36XZ anti roll bar
Whiteline 06-07 steering rack bushings KSR26
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Last edited by JarHarms; 05-22-2015 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 07-12-2011, 01:33 PM   #2
JarHarms
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
02 Forester S

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Links for the weary
Installing the STI aero panels and diffuser post #13
Cracked windshield, stupid assembly process post #14
Installing Dspec struts, RCE blacks, and WL ALKs post #16
Installing rear suspension bits: GroupN and locks post #15
Time for some audio upgrades post #17
OEM AUX panel installation post #31
Installing a new DCCD harness into 6MT post #40
Weird fragment in oil pan post #47
6MT front diff installation post #54
Ashtray mounted UEGO post #74
Round1 powder coating post #75
Various Intake Manifold and TGV Housing information post #76
Refurbishing some STI strut assemblies post #77

Info Nuggets
I tend to be that person who just wants to know stuff, specifically by seeing it firsthand. It's not unlike me that I have bought parts to look at, compare, etc. with no intention of using on my car. Weird but that's just the way I have always been. Friends think I am stupid...I say they are stupid. Here are some cases where I had time to snap some pics and document some of the "info nuggets" I anyways wanted to know prior to buying parts. As we all know that is not always possible but much appreciated when available.

Powertrain-Drivetrain
Transmission switches, sensors, harnesses, misc.
5MT vs 6MT clutch housing covers
Different sized 6MT fork pivot plugs
DCCD switch comparison

Chassis-Suspension-Brakes-Steering
WRX Subframe Lockbolt Install
WRX trailing arm (front) bushing Install
Wheel Bearing Repack
Steering Rack Related Info

Interior-Exterior
Metra Install Harnesses Info
WRX center console STi Limited Install

Others
Thermal Control of Exhaust Components
Random Wire Harnessing Info

Paint and Powder Colors
General:
-Generally many texture (wrinkle) powders are not UV stable unless overcoated so I suggest you ask and also verify to the mfg's specs. This property has much to do with the type of powder (epoxy, hybrids, polyester, urethane, etc). Overcoating with a UV stable clear will help preserve the base coat but at the cost of diminishing the texture. I recommend opting for a stingle stage UV stable powder instead.
-Texture powder throw a curveball so find a coater that is familar with curing textures and opt for runing a small test batch prior.

Wrinkle Reds:
If you are in a hurry then use the VHT wrinkle red spray paint and install carefully. If you want a durable finish I currently recommend Prismatic Desert Red Wrinkle powder #PWS 2762 since it is UV stable, color matches APS and STI close enough, and the common person can buy it by the pound. If your coater goes out of business then it is as simple as sourcing the same powder for the next coater to use.
-I feel that APS red powder is ever so slightly darker hue than the STI red paint. I can say that APS does not bother to properly prep before coating so it chips off like cheap paint. Why do they even bother?
-VHT's older wrinkle red spray paint was a good match for STI red. VHT altered the formulation around 2008/2009 resulting in a lighter hue and slightly orange-ish looking.
-Dupont Red Wrinkle powder #GFR-600-W2 is supposed to be a direct match for APS red and slightly darker than STI red. Keep in mind that this only comes from internet scouring. I have not seen it in person, it is not a commonly accessible powder, and I'm not yet willing to pay for coating a part just to determine its color match.
-AkzoNobel (Corvel) Robin Red Wrinkle powder #AG400QF color, legacy #12-4004 is an epoxy powder that is "close" to APS but slightly brighter hue. Probably a close match to STI red. Texture is spot on. It is not UV stable. This powder seems to be getting more difficult to find, has been sold around a bit (-> RH -> AN).
-AkzoNobel (Interpon) red texture powder #EG304G does not match either APS or STI colors, it is much too bright of a hue. Texture is finer than I had hoped but it is an attractive color. It is UV stable.
-AkzoNobel (Interpon) red texture powder #EG3027 I have no idea because the sample never arrived. I believe it to be almost as bright as EG304G and it is UV stable.
-NIC (Prismatic) Desert Crimson Red powder #PWB 6699 is the closest I have found to APS color and texture. Probably a tab darker hue than STI red.
-NIC (Prismatic) Desert Red Wrinkle powder #PWS 2762 is "close" to APS but slightly brighter hue. Probably a close match to STI red. Texture is spot on. It is UV stable.
-NIC (Prismatic) Hotsy Red powder #E-9141B is even lighter hue than Desert Red Wrinkle and the texture is too fine. It is NOT UV stable so I do not recommend it.
-NIC (Prismatic) Phone Red powder #E-9125B is a darker matte red than Desert Red Wrinkle with a slight sparkle in it and the texture is too fine. It is NOT UV stable so I do not recommend it.


-NIC (Prismatic) Desert Night Black powder #PWS 2859 is a really good black wrinkle color and texture wise.

Reds:
-The older cherry blossom red is a Panatone Magenta C color. I still need to find the RAL color.
-The newer cherry blossom red is a Panatone 207c color. I still need to find the RAL color.

Last edited by JarHarms; 04-22-2015 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 07-12-2011, 01:33 PM   #3
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
02 Forester S

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Holding Tank --------------------

I've helped with more than a few installs of the newer steering racks (2006-07 WRX/2005-07 STI) into other Subarus using the older square saddle front cross members. Contrary to the internet joes toting that this requires a matched cross member.....this is just not so. I also helped install a Qrack more than awhile ago and ended up ordering one for my 2006 since it was pretty sweet to drive with. I just never got around to installing it (kids) so maybe this winter?
Since I am going in the opposite direction than most; grafting an older rack into a newer cross members there are bound to be some issues. First off there are no threads that mention any detail of this or show any photos depicting concern areas. I looked everywhere none, zip. So I can see how one might think it just installs fine as-is.
The older rack physically mounts into the new cross member fine. The rack's LHS square cross section fits fine into the round cross member saddle as long as you do not use a bushing.
There are problem areas with the right and left hydraulic tubes (hard lines). The older rack routing rubs the newer cross member; this is not a recipe for a long problem free service life. So I thought why not try modifying hard lines from the newer rack onto the older rack. This is also not possible for a few reasons 1) the end flares do not match, the older used o-ring flares and the newer uses DIN bubble flares, neither are interchangeable. Both require special flaring tools. 2) the routing is slightly different at the quill connections, the older rack has ports in the quill housing while the newer rack has ports in the rack housing. 3) the newer tubes are not long enough to support re-bending to fit. I "might" be able to re-bend the older tubes to avoid the rubbing.

This project is pretty much on hold now. I have a few sets of the older hardlines to try re-bending for more clearance. Otherwise this could require custom bent tubes. I would be looking at some o-ring to double flare insert fittings that would let me use 45 degree double flares or having to buy another flare tool. Sucks since I really want this steering rack in here.

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-31-2015 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 07-12-2011, 02:50 PM   #4
96accord
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Member#: 145105
Join Date: Apr 2007
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Middle River, Maryland
Vehicle:
2015 WRB WRX Limited
2007 WRX Limited (sold)

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Subscribed.

Nice Limited WRX I have a '07 WRB WRX Limited
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Old 07-14-2011, 01:27 AM   #5
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
02 Forester S

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Most of us at some time in our WRX timeline want a proper boost meter. Do I really need one? Well no, not really. I use boost as a judgement of engine load helps me identify potential low power issues. Really I just wanted something fairly accurate and that might somewhat match the oem cluster. I have used most of the usual meter brands on prior cars and was set on avoiding garbage parts. The Defi meters used in the past have always performed well and live a long service life. Autometer (while mfg'ed nearby) are complete crap and I will not touch them with your dirty "member".
Mounting this meter was certainly not going to be done in a silly A-pillar pod. I do not like the clock hood, A-pillar, or any of the other mounting pods offered for Subarus. They all just end up looking out of place and not quite my style. So steering column mounting seemed to be my remaining option. Those are tough to find for meters bigger than a 52mm, so 52mm it is. Since my mind functions in English units (it just does) I wanted to avoid a metric scale. I have had meters in SI units before and I just do not like them as much. What can I say, the Imperial units work best for me. Defi BF's are really nice but I just didn't need their added wow factor, extra cost, and dash cluster miss-match. So a black faced imperial unit 52mm Link boost meter, V2 control, and Defi mounting cup was ordered. Then promptly installed.

The before action.




The after action. Looks pretty good and you would hardly notice it in passing.




Ended up using the Subaru gauge pack jumper harness which made for an easy install, factory appearance, and extra pwr/gnd taps for future electro goodies. In hindsight, I did not use an IGN circuit to power the control unit so I get the double opening event. I just keep putting off the correction of that annoying issue. I never really use Defi's record or playback features, a waste I suppose. **I eventually tried using a different switch circuit (IGN) that I was certain would solve the double opening. It did not.**
The control unit is held in with that HD velcro that is used on IPASS/EZPASS transponders. Check out Radio Shack, they carry it. It only needs two smaller pieces or otherwise you are not getting that unit out easily.
This meter is still working to this day without issues. I think the only time I touched the control unit was to increase the overboost warn setting. The mounting arrangement did however require a later repair thanks to an auto glass guy.

Since winter season had set in there was all kinds for road junk being flung onto the sides of the WRX. Some decent mudflaps would solve that problem. I hate oem mudflaps since they are usually aesthetically challenged and tend to accelerate rusting. The rally style flaps tend to get a bit too much "out there" if you know what I mean. I eventually ended up with some RallyArmor flaps. The only PITA was figuring out what the difference was between regular (stiffer material) and ultimate (flexible material) versions. Their web descriptions were a bit lacking back then. Plain black was the color of choice; red and blue flaps are just effing ugly man. Just accept it.

The before action. Plenty gritty.


The after action. They overhang relative the oem wheels but the summer wheel/tire combo reduces most of that overhang.


I ended up modding the rear flaps to bring them inboard a bit more to my liking. After a good few years of DD use these are showing use but holding their own. They have a very little warp to them but the hard corner scrapes have finally disappeared. I must have finally worn them down past the scrape zone. RallyArmor must have renamed this version of the flap to "Classic". I would replace these with Ultimates but since these are still fighting the good fight, I would only be wasting money.
We then strapped it onto AMS' dyno just to see what bone stock had to offer. Three pulls Max HP1 207.85 Max TQ1 235.36, Max HP2 208.49 Max TQ2 246.72, and Max HP3 209.24 Max TQ3 245.45. Sadly I have long since lost that dyno plot. But really I could care less about dyno stats at this point in time. It was done more for fun and curiosity. Right after that a cat back exhaust was installed. I just wanted something a little louder. The dyno run was embarrassingly quiet. Too quiet. I researched and read, then got lazy and ordered a dual tipped Borla. It works well enough, looks fairly stock-ish, and lets more rumble out. Fine enough for me although looking back I might have opted for a Maddad Whisper instead.

Last edited by JarHarms; 10-20-2014 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 07-14-2011, 02:44 AM   #6
fastwrx25
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Location: TPE
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03 bugeye

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good choice on the tr wheels, I've always liked those wheels...any pics standing still?
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Old 07-14-2011, 03:19 AM   #7
rockthebox50
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Member#: 150034
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Westlake Village, CA
Vehicle:
2007 Impreza WRX
Satin White Pearl

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^what he said
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Old 07-14-2011, 04:23 AM   #8
future_subaru_owner
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Location: Kingwood, TX
Vehicle:
2011 Dodge Ram 3500
2003 Subaru Legacy L..ame

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Love the overall stockness. At times wish I would have gone that route.
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Old 07-15-2011, 01:00 PM   #9
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
02 Forester S

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Yea "stockness", I tend to be pretty uninspiring on most of my cars exterior appearances. So far it has worked pretty well as I get very little attention from LEO and other motorists. I lost a bunch of early photos due to a HDD failure. I'll try to take some less-crummy photos to replace these.

Since this is a DD I figured it would be useful to scare the bejeesus out of a fellow motorists that gets out of line. Some Hella horns were installed in the usual WRX forward pointing position. Honestly I do not use them that much but they are available if needed. No photos of that since we all know what those look like.
**The piss poor nuts and bolts that Hella uses rusted up pretty fast and started annoying me. All 16 of these got replaced with SS 8-32 capscrews and nuts.**
My "creature comfort" splurge was towards new center console trim. The WRX center console trim is too shiny and could double as a chick's vanity mirror. Sure I had aspirations of the flat black Spec C trim. Cost, availability, and later finding replacement parts steered me away from those. I decided on the STi Limited console trim which has a more charcoal gray color. It really was the best option after contemplating Spec C or painting the WRX trim. The only downside was cost and the two little holes that would have located the Limited badge (which you cannot order unless you prove STi Ltd ownership). Looking back, if that 3m matte gray vinyl was around I would have gone that route and saved some cash. PlastiDip coating did come to mind but was not sure on its durability. I posted up some of my install detail (HERE).

The after action.


The only other install things I did differently was forgo the red Hazard button and bright silver HVAC control rings. Now that I look at it, the oem radio looks kind of funny inside that darker console trim. Meh
Shortly after this I ended up selling off the last of my motorcycles and track specific cars. It did not take too long before I ended up at a track event and needed something to drive. This WRX is all that I had even though the curb weight is; well it's a little "porky". It worked out fine aside from the RE92's, oem pads, and brake fluid. Knowing that the WRX would have to suffice for more track use, I shopped around for some parts to at least hold a usable session or two.
I felt the steering input was better than other WRXs I have driven. I suspect it has something to do with the difference in the rack mounting design. Whiteline steering rack bushings were installed to help a little "more". To avoid the cost of a new rear anti-roll bar I replaced the oem rear endlinks (made of black laffy-taffy) with Whiteline alloy links. In hindsight I would have bought Kartboys since they are not gold and they are made in the USA. I guess I must have gotten a good deal on these Whitelines way back when. Still wish I had Kartboys though.


The rear felt like it had some wandering during acceleration. I tried some TiC rear differential bushings in their comfort version. Whiteline rear outrigger bushings were also installed. I really wanted to avoid turning this WRX into a rough DD car like I've done with past cars though.


Another alignment was done to confirm everything was good to go. The brake fluid was purged out with some Motul600 I had around the garage and I borrowed a set of Hawk track pads from a friend (short notice). These sorted out a few of the previous issues, helped the following track visit, and made the DD use interesting to say the least. The RE92's were still problematic but held their tread longer then I expected. I would get around to better tires eventually. Dang black numbers, could not find my white #720's that day.


I was originally going to outright buy new 2004-05 tail lights since I am not a fan if of the new clear tail light fad. Tail lights are supposed to have red lenses with the appropriate clear for reverse and maybe some amber PERIOD. I ended up trading a friend for his 2004 STi tail lights. In the end we were both happy and the cost was about right. free

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-01-2013 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 07-21-2011, 12:23 PM   #10
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
02 Forester S

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A good set of 2004 STi takeoffs was bought and installed with RCE v1 camber plates. I split them apart, removed the OEM grease, and repacked with some slick-o-leum strut grease I had around. That avoided any STi strut clunking later in life. Slick-o-leum is a bit thinner than the usual Mobil1 red grease that is used, but this maintains good contact with the strut cartridge surface.
**I eventually replaced these with Tokico Dspecs...but now I wish I would have kept these to have the inserts tuned up by Feal.**


The RCE v1 camber plates worked great. My only gripe was the minor issue during install where one of the chassis mounting nuts must have stripped while tightening to spec (with TQ wrench). This left me with a spinning nut on the stud that would have to be removed by cutting it off. A minor gripe at that point though. I made repeated emails and calls asking for a replacement (stud and nut only) to get "Yea we will send you one" but nothing ever arriving. I gave up with a salty experience over $1.50 in hardware. Yea I could have gone to the hardware store and got replacements but considering the cost of these plates I wanted them to match the other hardware without additional cost to my wallet. This should have been made right. Meh
**I later fixed these myself prior to selling them off.**


Eventually I wanted aftermarket wheels and some new rubber. I spend a stupid amount of time on what sizes, what was available, and what I was willing to spend. For various reasons my best compromise on function, cost, and looks were some 17" x 8.5" +48 TR Motorsport (Tire Rack) MT1's in 5x100 bolt pattern. Sadly these are not made anymore despite the fact that they were an excellent size and value. The finish is more matte that this photo suggests, but I was really pleased with how it went with the SGM paint. I am certain that these were made for Tire Rack in an Enkei foundry. I had a few different sets of rubber on these wheels, I think starting with Falken RT-615 in the 235/40/17 size. There were some other sizes and brands used afterwards but these wheels currently have Falken RT-615K 255/40/17 tires installed. Not my ideal tires but since I got a deal on them before Falken jacked pricing up, I am happy enough.


On the car, not too shabby. It's just a plain WRX nothing special.

Last edited by JarHarms; 07-01-2013 at 09:52 PM.
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Old 07-21-2011, 01:05 PM   #11
2006subaru
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I honestly can say this is the one of the best WRX build I have seen. Kept it nice and simple and enjoyed the car for what it is.

When I had mine I was so focus on all the things it didnt have that I forgot about all the good things of a WRX. Which is a good DD and good track car on the weekend.

+1 on your car man and I am jealous mine didnt go this way.
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Old 07-21-2011, 05:52 PM   #12
sc00ter
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Location: Denver, CO
Vehicle:
2015 WRX Sedan (6MT)
CWP

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
I've been wanting to do this but I feel like it just makes the cd player stick out like a sore thumb.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:18 AM   #13
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd
02 Forester S

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006subaru View Post
I honestly can say this is the one of the best WRX build I have seen. Kept it nice and simple and enjoyed the car for what it is.
When I had mine I was so focus on all the things it didnt have that I forgot about all the good things of a WRX. Which is a good DD and good track car on the weekend.
+1 on your car man and I am jealous mine didnt go this way.
Thanks, that is what I am going for. My last project car got a bit out of hand and in the end really was not that much fun to drive anymore. Caged, solid mounted everything, limited traction, and loud as eff sort of makes for less-fun after awhile.



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Originally Posted by sc00ter View Post
I've been wanting to do this but I feel like it just makes the cd player stick out like a sore thumb.
I hear you there. That was taken care of when I replaced some of the audio stuff just recently.

Later I was given some STi under body panels. But installing these without the rear diffuser seemed inappropriate. I ordered a diffuser along with the oem brackets. Heck you can't see them much but I thought why not?
(need to find a photo of these)

Once the rear diffuser arrived I followed up with its installation. I decided to go with using the OEM brackets that are usually welded in place during assembly. Getting them lined up correctly before drilling holes in the floor pan was tricky though. Stainless pop-rivets, POR-15, seam sealer, and urethane undercoating was used to install them and protect from the elements.


Before action:


After action:
(missing, have to take a new photo)

So I have all the aero bits shown below minus the JDM transmission piece. Oh and my front under panel is the shorter one we got here in the US.

I always though this was a decent diagram of airflow around the GD body. Although I do not have the STi rear vane and spoiler...or ever plan on installing those fugly bits.

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-31-2015 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:45 AM   #14
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Shortly later I found a windshield crack or more accurately it was found during a tech inspection. It was originating from the edge under the glass trim and moving downwards then over to the right.
Here is the crack (center vertical one). Ignore the others as this photo was taken after removing the glass.


Huh that seems kind of coincidental.


These are locating aides used to position the windshield at the factory.


The center ones in my case is the cause of this crack due to poor factory installation. There is one on the glass and a mating one on the body frame. These two were making excessive pressure at the edge causing a high stress point. Cracks were only a matter of time.


So if you are replacing a windshield make sure your glass guy removes all of these foolish pieces or you may be returning in a short time for new glass.
Or you might have to come back for new glass when the glass tech tries to cut corners and cracks the bottom edge (of a heated windshield) trying to force the cowl trim in place. Just take off the cowl and replace it once the glass is installed azzhats. I am still pissed off about this.
Oh and I almost forgot that the Defi meter cup got broken off in the process of installing the 2nd windshield. (holy jeezebus that dash is dusty!) I had to come up with something more robust.


The steering column cover was replaced and a new dual dash bezel was installed. The unused side got filled in with a meter blank. All and all it works OK and had acceptable fitment. The surface finish is a bit shiny and I only used the upper screw mounts. The only gripe I have is that Defi has since discontinued the Link meters. That is going to make it difficult to find an extra Link meter to fill that blank spot.

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Old 08-18-2011, 09:37 PM   #15
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A bit of time passed before I started changing more parts. I tackled the rear suspension bushings next, starting with the trailing arms. The rearward trailing arm bushings in the rear knuckle were replaced with Group N using BIG SKY's install tools. Just do yourself a favor and get on the list for this install tool. Trust me.
I know it does not look like it is the correct bushing but I assure you it gets shoved in there as designed.


The forward trailing arm bushing was removed with at self-made install tool and replaced with Group N bushings. I considered box welding these arms in to add some strength but ran out of time.


All of the rear lateral link bushings were replaced with Group N bushings. I ended up getting the SPX install tool for the 2 toe-adjust position bushings, tricky buggers. I found that those particular bushings are harder to install without tearing the rubber. I messed up two of them before ordering the SPX tools. Meh


The rear was finished up with some subframe lock bolts or as Kartboy calls then "Botox bolts". These installed fine, work great, and meet my demands for well designed/built parts. However the method of instruction delivery is poor and the TQ specs commonly used on these is way too much.
*I had removed the rear cross member and saw what I expected with these inserts. The excessive TQ spec deforms the piss out of the alloy inserts which makes then semi-permanent parts of the cross member and makes it tricky to get the bolts out.*


These bushing and lock bolt upgrades made a dramatic difference, noticeable on the first test drive. There was a reduction of spongy-ness in the rear end with a increase in rear stability during hard corners. Well worth the effort to install these. I have helped install these for a few people who brought or shipped me their parts to install front trailing arm and lateral link bushings. They comment back on similar positive experiences.

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Old 08-18-2011, 09:42 PM   #16
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A Whiteline ALK (comfort) was installed. I was going to attempt the free castor mod but was pressed for time. I may revisit this in the near future.
**after a recent under inspection I feel that WL's hardware rusts up too fast**


The STi take-off springs and struts were replaced with some RCE black springs and Tokico D-specs. (HERE) Since I removed the RCE camber plates I ended up using front camber bolts in the lower strut holes. Not my favorite method but it will work for now. GroupN top hats were used front and rear since I could not find adjustable camber plates I liked enough. An alignment followed as well as a new set of tires.
**I believe I am settled on front 5.0 TTFS and rear 5.5 TTFS settings**

Here is a side by side of the STi - Dspec - WRX struts.


RCE black springs, they come with Prodrive (front) bumpstops


Rear strut spacers


I made a quick tool from a leftover bolt that would hold the strut shaft while I apply initial TQ to the strut nut. Used with one of those thru-sockets and it allowed me to tighten enough to stop the shaft from spinning. After that I removed this get up and did final TQ with a regualr deep socket and TQ wrench.


Hmm, that front strut adjuster just does not look right. I have a 3/8" hole punch around here somewhere.....





In preparation for a 6MT swap, the heated seat switches needed relocation. I decided that the STi Limited locations were my best option so a RHS door trim was ordered. The heated seat wiring is integrated into the chassis harness. So this leaves you to build an overlay harness and route the RHS through your door and the LHS to the dash blanks. I started gathering up the proper harness building tools and connectors for the wiring portion. I studied the wiring diagrams heavily before cutting anything apart. I did notice that the switch makes an interesting change in one of the circuits from pwr to an additional gnd. Weird.

The LHS to the dash blanks is cake. The RHS through the door grommet is a PITA. I ended up taking the grommet and harness out, lacing the new wires through, then rebuilding the grommet assembly. This is where I had the car enough taken apart that some audio upgrades were convent (next post down).

In the end I hooked it all back up and everything turns on and off as expected. The bad news is that the extra length (resistance) of the overlay harness noticeably draws out the heating time. Others have noted this experience as well. I think this change reduces the max temperature as well. As an "A-B-A" test, I reconnected the switches at the original location. The heating time was restored.
Thankfully I built the overlay so it could be reversed pretty easily. My expectation is that the STi Limited wiring runs through the harness to different locations but keeps it a similar overall length as the WRX Limited. I put it all back together and will come up with an improved solution later on.

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Old 08-18-2011, 09:53 PM   #17
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While the car is up on jackstands I was thinking of slightly upgrade the speakers. I spend a good deal of time in the Audio sub-forum learning what would be a good choice for me. If you have not been in that sub-forum there are some really good people in there !!

Since I was not the most knowledgeable in this area, I learned quite a bit as I ran into issues. The speaker harness adapters seemed to be kind of all over the place. Especially since there were two versions that are used or most just cut the original connector off.. (HERE). I was not going to cut the original connector off.

New Alpine front speakers and kartboy spacers were installed using Metra harness adapters


But first, I added some BXII deadener and Ensolite foam. Seriously this job kicked my arse. I think it turned out not so bad for my first time if I say so myself. I also trimmed the door cards around the speaker grills and added some BXII and Ensolite as well. As noted in the above post. I altered the heated seat harnesses to relocate the switches to the STi Limited locations. That is the extra harness lead you see hanging there.


And why not add a new headunit while I am in there? I found this on Amazon for a hard to pass up deal. It matches the STi Limited console better now. Plus I have DVD playback and tunes from an SD card. I am enjoying the SD card feature, an cheap 8GB card carries so many tunes.


That work ripped up my fingers and really sucked but I will eventually revisit the sound dampening effort by means of the rear deck and doors. Some was put under the rear deck lid but not to the detail that I wanted to spend. I am taking a time out to learn more about dampening before I start again. So far it sounds pretty good to my untrained ears. It get the job done playing the music and AM radio I like.

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Old 08-19-2011, 01:34 AM   #18
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great stuff man...good work.
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Old 08-19-2011, 11:35 AM   #19
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How do you like the D-specs compared to the Sti take-offs? My JDM v7 struts clunk like a mofo.
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Old 08-19-2011, 12:00 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Subian View Post
How do you like the D-specs compared to the Sti take-offs? My JDM v7 struts clunk like a mofo.
Honestly I'm not that enthusiastic about them. To be more precise they function as fine as I would expect any JPN variant dampener, acceptable that is. But I detect that clunking noise that they are known for. These were not top of the line but they were not cheap either...hence they should not make a peep. More or less I am pissed off at myself since I long ago said I would not purchase any more Tokico products, I went against that, now they make stupid noises, guess I got my just deserved. In the end I wish I would have kept my STi take off struts and had them re-valved. I already had the STi clunk issue sorted out by re-packing them with a better grease. Eventually the D-specs will be replaced with something else, I just have too much on my plate to do it now.

I got tired of the dirty gray floor mats that Subaru paired up with the black (well I guess you can call it black) carpet. Seriously, light gray over black? You can hardly blame color blindness on that mistake.
So I wanted black floor mats that fit the floor shape and not some universal fit junk. Since I really do not use this car in the winter I was not interested in any rubber floor mats. The only oem floor mats I could find were the STi ones which include an extra retention bracket that bolts to the seat. Cool, except it is embroidered with STI in cherry blossom red (which is just a manly way to say pink). Initial observation makes me think the materials may not hold up that long but I installed them and they look way better. Made in Canada too

I also installed an STi shift trim ring, given to me as a gift. It's kind of shiny for my tastes but I'll see how it goes before I try media blasting the shine out of it . I tossed my hacked 5MT shift boot to make way for a new 6MT shift boot. It all just bolts together and looks like it is meant to be there. The worn out STi knob was also replaced with a not-so-shiny new one. I LIKE! LatheWerks does excellent craftsmanship.

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Old 08-19-2011, 01:49 PM   #21
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Nice updates! What headunit is that? I know Pioneer.
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Old 08-19-2011, 02:24 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96accord View Post
Nice updates! What headunit is that? I know Pioneer.
Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD, although I just saw on crutchfield's that this model may have been replaced with a 4300 that includes Pandora interface/controls. Dang

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Old 08-19-2011, 03:07 PM   #23
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Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD, although I just saw on crutchfield's that this model may have been replaced with a 4300 that includes Pandora interface/controls. Dang
Thanks. Always something newer/better coming out as soon as you get the older model lol :/
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Old 08-19-2011, 06:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
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Thanks. Always something newer/better coming out as soon as you get the older model lol :/
Technology has its setbacks, haha
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:22 AM   #25
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Weird i've had tokico d-specs for 2 years, and i still don't hear any sort of clunk.
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