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Old 03-06-2011, 04:03 AM   #76
98malibou
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Default Struts

What struts should I get for my 04' STI
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:35 AM   #77
A-man07
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You should have your stockers revalved at Feal Suspension - just Google it.
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Old 03-06-2011, 09:55 AM   #78
crpwrx
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Still wondering about cradle and steering rack interchangeability. Anyone?
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Old 04-28-2011, 03:01 AM   #79
jashmy
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Default spring upgrade

about how long will it take to change the springs too lowering springs? And best way to cut the rubber boots to a level stage?
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Old 05-06-2011, 03:05 PM   #80
Beriky
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Good lookin out on the saggy but issue. bought some for paranoid fabrications and it was helpful.
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Old 10-05-2011, 07:56 PM   #81
MESSY MAYHEM
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Default 2008 GE7/GH7 wrx suspension in a 1998 GC8/OBS?

Hi guys! I recently came across a 2008 GE7/GH7 wrx suspension i would like to install in a 1998 GC8/OBS? I figured the fronts would be the usual
'lego' fitment, and assumed top hat swap/drilling and re-positioning would be necessary, but finding very little info on any swap of the like.. or even compatibility between '08+ -> any previous gen. chassis. im also interested in what other bolt-on parts share compatibility; sway bars, trailing arms, brake parts...

thanks in advance!
M.M.
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:37 PM   #82
Scooby921
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'08+ Impreza is a completely new rear suspension geometry. You can't put that into anything older than 2008. You could do some work to fit a 2002-2007 suspension into your car, but you'd still need to do something to adapt the different PCD bolt circle of the newer rear strut mounts to get it to fit.
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:27 AM   #83
pbw2004
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Default Caliper replacement

Hi, I'm looking for information on changing a brake caliper on my 2004 Impreza Outback Sport. The pads on the rear driver's side brakes are wearing unevenly (one of them wears much faster than the other), so I think that probably this means I should replace the caliper. I'm comfortable with changing the pads and rotors, but I've never changed a caliper before or bled the brakes. I've found a couple threads/websites (including the ones at the start of this thread) that talk about bleeding the brakes, but I couldn't find much information about the process of actually changing the caliper. Any suggestions or tips? I'm relatively new to doing my own car maintenance, so I want to make sure I have as much info as possible. Thanks for your help!
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:46 AM   #84
FjStix
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need more on the GR series !!!! please !
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:41 PM   #85
SamOntario
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Red

Default How to do CV Boots replacements

Newbie here. Just bought a 2005 Subaru Impreza a week ago from OH (I live in NC and the Impreza is now in Ontario Canada) with CV Boot problem(?). Appreciated if you guys can link me to the correct thread, thanks.
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Old 12-01-2011, 03:48 PM   #86
wrxlaunch
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Having u tried the search function on this forum?
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:02 AM   #87
SamOntario
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I search with CV Boot replacement and there were 20 pages and there were no page startedwith CV Boot Replacements!
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Old 12-02-2011, 12:22 AM   #88
SamOntario
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For those who don't know anything about CV Boot problem/replacement, I googled "CV Boot replacement" and get many results with this sentence and one (Buick boot replacement) of them said:

"The boot you need to replace is call OUTER CV BOOT.
The quickest way to inspect is to drive it in low speed (UNDER 10 mph) tight left and right turns.
If you hear clicking sound then the CV shaft is bad.
It's also depending on how long the CV boot been crack.

===
If you decide to go ahead on the job then please observe safety and use jack stands to fully support the front end.
Remove wheel,cotter pin,retainer cap and larger axle nut.
Make alignments markings on the strut tower and steering mount so your front end will able to put back to alignment.
You will need an able body to do the following.
Remove the large lower strut bolts and swing the strut off the CV.
DO NOT ROCK THE CAR!!!
Clean off the outer CV.
Install boot,grease and the two bands.
Line up the strut and steering yoke marks
repack bearings,lock nut,cap,cotter pin,wheel.
Drive the car in low speed for 1 miles with tight turns.
Do a quick inspection to make sure the CV boot is sitting perfectly on the CV."

Any videos or pictures show how to do just that? Be patient with me, a newbie has never a problem with CV boots except this 2005 Subaru Impreza RS Sedan! Thanks.
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Old 12-02-2011, 01:03 AM   #89
SamOntario
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For those who are interested in replacing CV Boots, here is another excellent CV Boot replacement procedure I googled:

How to Replace a CV Boot ( DIY Complexity: Hard / Time: 3.2 hours )

Parts:
1. CV Boot
2. CV Boot Clamp Kit

Tools:
1. Mallet Hammer
2. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet
3. Combination Wrench Set
4. Floor Jack
5. Flashlight
6. Flat Head Screwdriver
7. Socket Set
8. Tire Iron

Steps:
Step 1 Secure the vehicle on a level surface, making sure the vehicle will not roll or lean too much when jacked up.
o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.

Step 2 Lift up the front of the vehicle using a jack.
o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.

Step 3 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working.
o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.

Step 4 Find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn the wheel lug nuts counter clockwise. Remove the front wheels.
o Tip: It is a good idea to try and break the lug nuts free before you jack the wheels off the ground. This way they you will not spin the front wheels or put stress on the transaxle.
o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.

Step 5 Inspect the CV boot for damage.
o Tip: The CV joint may be worn if the boot is damaged. Thoroughly inspect the CV joint assembly before installing the new boot. If the CV joint is damaged, replace the entire CV joint axle assembly.

Step 6 Mark the axle for installation reference. Remove the CV joint axle assembly.

Step 7 Using a bench vise, hold the shaft of the CV joint secure so that you can separate the CV joint from the shaft. Remove the CV boot clamps.

Step 8 Slide the CV boot off the outer CV joint.

Step 9 Using a rubber mallet, knock the CV joint off of the axle shaft.

Step 10 Remove the old boot from the CV axle shaft and wipe off any old grease. Clean the sealing surface on the CV joint.

Step 11 Fill the CV joint with grease and get it ready to slide back onto the shaft.

Step 12 Slide the new boot onto the shaft but do not tighten the inner clamp yet. Install a new retaining clip before putting the joint and axle together.

Step 13 Slide the CV joint back onto the axle shaft completely.

Step 14 Pack the boot with grease and slide the boot over the CV joint housing. Secure the boot with new clamps.

Step 15 Install the CV joint and axle back into the vehicle in the reverse order that it was removed.

Step 16 Mount the wheel back onto the hub assembly.

Step 17 Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern and torque to suggested manufacturer specifications in the vehicle owner’s manual.

Step 18 Remove jack stands.

Step 19 Lower vehicle with jack until it is securely on the ground.

Step 20 Drive the vehicle to make sure that any noises are no longer present and that there are no indications of wearing parts. Before road testing, visually inspect the area you have worked on to make sure everything is tightened and assembled properly.
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Old 12-05-2011, 11:56 PM   #90
Scooby921
Thanks Sir Alex!
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2011 GMC Sierra
'13 JCW

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Be careful if you're going to try and tear apart a CV joint by yourself. I just started working at the worlds leading supplier of driveline parts (GKN Driveline) and during my orientation and in talking with my new boss I've discovered that a lot of newer CV joints are designed with positive retention features and can't be disassembled and serviced. It's easier to spend $100 and swap the whole axle than try to tear apart, service, and reassemble a CV joint AND expect further reliability.
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Old 12-06-2011, 04:27 AM   #91
SamOntario
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Red

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Scooby921,

Thanks for the warning. Please advise me where can I spend $100 to swap the whole axle out, thanks.
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Old 12-06-2011, 10:03 AM   #92
turboICE
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2006 STi,'11 OBS
WRB & Black/Silver

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I am pretty Subaru's CVJ are servicable, including lets say on the side of a mud road in the middle of a forest...
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Old 12-07-2011, 03:16 AM   #93
davidmount
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2003 WRX
WRB

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IIRC they have kits you can purchase, similar to the SFJ kits.
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:30 PM   #94
dustyroads13
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Black

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http://youtu.be/_E-lLrkp19g

crappy how too vid! haha
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:03 PM   #95
SamOntario
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Red

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Dustyroads13,

Well done! Great video for beginners like me. Thanks.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:19 AM   #96
dustyroads13
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Black

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SamOntario View Post
Dustyroads13,

Well done! Great video for beginners like me. Thanks.

thanks! its my beginner vids and i had some people hating on me:/ haha
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Old 12-21-2011, 09:25 AM   #97
SamOntario
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Red

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I like all car repairs with video(s). How can someone hate that?!!!
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:08 AM   #98
lazyimpreza
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Default

For my 2011 Impreza 2.5i, I’ve purchased the whiteline RSB that comes with Bushings and lateral brace and kart boy endlinks.
I know I still need the bushing clamps and 4x bolts for the clamps. What other hardware do I still need to pick up from the dealership? Any extra washers or nuts I would need.
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Old 09-20-2012, 11:46 AM   #99
Outlaw57
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2011 Legacy 3.6R
Silver

Default Strut tower brace for my 2011 Legacy 3.6R.

To all the speacilist's, guru's and moderator's out there that may know a thing or two about strut tower bracing, I have a question for you.
Specific to my 2011 Legacy 3.6R and it's inherent handling limitations, is it a worthwhile venture to add a strut tower brace to my car. Yes I did a search and found nothing wrt this topic for my specific year & model.
Any insight to this reqeust will be most appreciated.

Regards,

Outlaw57
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Old 03-21-2013, 04:08 AM   #100
dagger108
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WRC Blue

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Not sure if this is where I should post a DIY suggestion, but here goes.

I was replacing the FCA bushings, and didn't have much trouble with the inner sleeve or rubber, but really got stuck on the outer metal sleeve. Was finally quite succesful in combining 2 suggestions:
1. Use a chisel to pound it out
2. Cut it out

I, like others, worried about cutting into the FCA so I initially opted for pounding, with limited success. I switched to cutting, but stopped when I noticed that I had nicked the FCA, though fortunately just barely, and not through the entire height of the sleeve. When I switched back to pounding, I noticed the sleeve sheared in 2 along the partial depth cut, and came out much easier. The next time, I wondered if an extra cut would allow the sleeve to collapse quicker as well. When I put the 2 partial depth cuts about a 1/4" apart, it turned the 1/4" into a DIY zipper, and the sleeve was out in a jiff.

Made me look forward to the next bushing replacement.
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