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Old 01-23-2008, 11:06 PM   #1
Diode663
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Question Changing Clutch and flywheel without dropping the trans 5MT

Like the title says I am going to be changing the clutch and flywheel. Ive dropped the trans twice before but after reading around some people seem to have an easier way that doesn't involve disconnecting the half shafts and all that goes with that. But no one has told the way to do it. Could some kind soul enlighten me with this or another easier procedure?
Thank you greatly.
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:08 PM   #2
LSx Racer
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I think the hard part about doing a clutch/flywheel without dropping the trans would be getting enough separation to get the (presumably) air tools in there to get the bolts off the old clutch/flywheel.

Would be interesting if someone could provide instructions on doing it this way.
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Old 01-23-2008, 11:09 PM   #3
Diode663
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In the thread below there are a few people who seem to know how to do this.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1324240
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Old 01-24-2008, 03:05 AM   #4
minifreak
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The other way to do a clutch swap is to remove the radiator, disconnect the engine mount and move the engine forward.
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Old 01-24-2008, 03:36 AM   #5
FuJi K
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PM udelslayer, he has the writeup I sent him.
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Old 01-24-2008, 11:47 PM   #6
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no problem.... now for the thread post (written by that guy with the mountainous name)....

I just finished a clutch install on a '02 WRX yesterday.

Well first of all this being the 19th or 20th I've done(????) you begin to notice things that are nessesary to take off and things that are NOT.

I start from removing things from the top; negative batt term,TMIC/bracket, disconnect hoses, (heatshields if stock DP then DP)downpipe bolts/nuts, top starter bolt, and 2 tranny-to-engine bolts on the pass side. Next comes jacking up the car and removing the exhaust, unclip the starter switch connector from the starter (it's the small wire, not the big one that comes from the battery) followed by removing the rest of the tranny-to-engine bolts and the 2 nuts on the very bottem studs from the engine. The starter will be pulled out after removing the lower starter bolt and let to hang on the driverside of the tranny.

Go back up to the top and remove the pitch mount and the bracket that's it bolts onto on the tranny; also don't forget the little ground wire that's bolted above the pitchmount and while you're there, you can unplug the wire connectors, leaving the speed sensor alone. You can just let that bracket hang on the pass side of the tranny. Now go over to the driverside and unbolt the clutch slave cylinder and move it out of the way, don't disconnect it from the hose.

Find your 10mm allen wrench(hex key) and remove the PLUG that's on the tranny; it should be between the starter and tranny if the starter was still on the tranny. It will be on there REALLY GOOD so have your torque bar, torque pipe, helper pipe (whatever you want to call it) and slide it over the hex/allen key/wrench and remove the plug. After this you want to get a SMALL BOLT that's the SAME as you timing belt cover bolts and screw it into the pin that's behind that plug. You pull out that PIN and grab the clutch fork, pull it UP and try to get it OFF the throwout bearing.

Now you go back down and remove the rear front diff plate; 6 bolts, and also disconnect the driveshaft from the rear diff. The driveshaft and diff HUB are MARKED with white/yellow lines to ensure it's put back on correctly, you can also mark it with your OWN paint pen/brush etc so you can install the driveshaft back on correctly (my driveshaft on MY OWN car has been on/off several times and it's not even on the same markings anymore. she drives jsut fine with no vibrations). Next unbolt the middle bracket that holds the driveshaft to the chassis; 2x 14mm bolts. Do not pull out the driveshaft from the tranny and try your BEST to not pull it out during moving around/taking out bolts etc..(fluid awaiting to attack YOU!! Also unbolt the tranny crossmember; the tranny will then hang so you will have to put a tranny jack or floor jack to support the tranny from hanging too much (can hang up to 6"-9" but you just want it to hang 3-6" (crossmember gap to chassis). Disconnect the shift linkage, 12mm from the JOINT/lower shifter arm.

part 2......


...continued

Go back up to the top and now you're ready to SPLIT the tranny from engine. I use a BUTCHER KNIFE to split them because the CUTCHER KNIFE is THINNER and will NOT NOTCH the mating surfaces. I have 2 special wedges to continue the splitting after the cases have cracked. You will need to have them crack so there's atleast .5" gap. After this you are able to pry on both driver and pass side and the tranny will slide out some. I like to go under after this and push up AND back at the end of the tranny to make it fully come OFF the clutch/engine. It will slide off and rest on the floor jack/tranny jack. You'll lower it 5-9" and the tranny will tilt back some, which is fine. You also want to push the tranny BACK some away from the engine. This will give you enough SPACE to work in between the tranny and engine on removing the clutch.

NOTES: The pitchmount bracket on the tranny was removed to allow the tranny to slide back an extra 4" or so. Leaving the driveshaft IN the tranny will allow you to not mess with fluids. With the axles being able to move back some allows you to not have to punch out the PINS and waste time pullin the axles out. Having to NOT unbolt the banjo bolt from the clutch slave cylinder saves you brake fluid. ALL OF this is done so, so YOU don't have to mess with ANY fluids besides brake cleaner for cleaning the NEW pressureplate/flywheel/disc and grease for greasing a few things up.

When installing the clutch disc, be aware that ALL CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOLS are NOT STRAIGHT. You want to be able to PULL the alignment tool out, rotate it 180* and slide it back in smoothly. Tighten the pressure plate a certain amount to where you can still move the disc by pulling up and pushing the alignment tool. Wiggle the disc up and down and left and right to try and CENTER it, then pull the alignment too out and rotate 180* and slide it back in to ensure it's ZERO'd in straight. After this you can THEN tighten the pressureplate bolts.

When putting things back together, you have to take it differently because now you have to put the tranny back ONTO the engine before installing the REST of the parts.


short, sweet, to the point. good pointers in this.

I'll be doing mine sometime soon. I'm starting to get annoyed at the slippage.
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Old 01-25-2008, 12:33 AM   #7
Diode663
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Well early Feb I'm gonna see how this works, it all makes sense, and should probably be a sticky. Thanks a bunch for the info.
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Old 01-25-2008, 05:15 PM   #8
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I'm still wondering if i should attempt this or not. I'm thinking if i have to question it, i should leave it to someone more experienced. How long does it take to do this?
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Old 01-26-2008, 04:39 AM   #9
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should I spend 300 for a shop to install this or partake in this myself?
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Old 01-26-2008, 07:34 PM   #10
Diode663
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Ive done it twice, and if you can follow instructions, and have general know how you can knock this out with a friend and tools in probably 8 hours the first time around.
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Old 01-26-2008, 11:19 PM   #11
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Save yourself the $300 and do it yourself, it wont be too fun the first time, the tranny/engine seperation has a way of making you blurt out obscenities. It will take most of the day the first time, but after you do it, you'll look back and say that wasnt THAT hard...

The second time is usually just a walk in the park.




~Josh~
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Old 01-28-2008, 10:51 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ballitch View Post
Save yourself the $300 and do it yourself, it wont be too fun the first time, the tranny/engine seperation has a way of making you blurt out obscenities. It will take most of the day the first time, but after you do it, you'll look back and say that wasnt THAT hard...

The second time is usually just a walk in the park.




~Josh~
Haha, yeah... The first time took me just shy of 8 hours to get it out. That third time though... I got the transmission completely out from under the car in about 45 minutes! And there are probably folks out there who could do it quicker! No joke.

My first time doing it, about 5-6 of those 8 hours were spent trying to figure out how to take the trans off the engine. When you remove the starter, there is a big plug with an allen key type socket... You remove that plug (probably will need a breaker boar and an allen socket, it's usually REALLY tight), then under that there is the pivot bar for the clutch fork... Remove all the bellhousing bolts, etc., pull that pivot bar out, boom engine and tranny come apart easy.
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