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Old 06-13-2009, 03:33 PM   #176
Kanchou
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diffusion always helps perceived response IMO
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Old 06-13-2009, 09:19 PM   #177
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanchou View Post
diffusion always helps perceived response IMO
Huh?..
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Old 06-14-2009, 08:24 PM   #178
8URVTEC
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WOW with all the SD material its gonna make a Lexus interior sound like a jet taking off!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 06-14-2009, 09:30 PM   #179
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8URVTEC View Post
WOW with all the SD material its gonna make a Lexus interior sound like a jet taking off!!!!!!!!!!
Let's hope so.... lol....

Naw, the 3" turbo back won't allow it.. lol..
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:01 PM   #180
bpang1
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Aaron what do you suppose I should use for my rear view mirror? I have the Autodimming/Compass one so not sure if I can open it up and put silicone like another thread said. It is rattling pretty hard when I play loud.
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:10 AM   #181
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Aaron what do you suppose I should use for my rear view mirror? I have the Autodimming/Compass one so not sure if I can open it up and put silicone like another thread said. It is rattling pretty hard when I play loud.
Some foam... you'll still need to open it and see where and where not to put it, but you need isolation, which is what the silicone would give, but you can't use it, or can you, in strategic locations.. ? It doesn't conduct, it's an insulator.. you can put it about where ever..
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Old 06-20-2009, 07:03 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron'z 2.5RS View Post
Some foam... you'll still need to open it and see where and where not to put it, but you need isolation, which is what the silicone would give, but you can't use it, or can you, in strategic locations.. ? It doesn't conduct, it's an insulator.. you can put it about where ever..
If anything I have to open it and see. I have no idea how the auto-dimming works. I assume there's a little motor that pivots the mirror or something like that but really have no clue.

Then again, I have tinted windows so I am not sure if the auto-dimmer is even worth it at this point.

I DO want to keep the compass though.
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Old 06-21-2009, 01:06 AM   #183
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Yeah, i miss my dash compass/thermometer/barometer pack the early models came with..

Now that I have my c701 in it's place, I don't know if I miss it that much though..lol..
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:08 AM   #184
ARIZONA
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Awesome. And, done right to the T!! You would make ANY audiophile proud!
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Old 06-21-2009, 11:33 AM   #185
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Thank you Sir...
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Old 06-21-2009, 08:58 PM   #186
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Wow I wish I had the time, patience, and skill to do this
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Old 06-24-2009, 10:25 AM   #187
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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it wasn't easy.... but it IS gratifying..
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Old 06-24-2009, 01:53 PM   #188
Ebonysti
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Nice work, did 80% of my car a year ago took me over 24 hours total I have a good idea of the time you spent and the money for the mat crap but it was one of the best mods I did changes the car for DD I did not care about the extra weight.
Any way nice job hope you never have to remove it
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Old 06-24-2009, 02:06 PM   #189
Subydude81
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What are doing with the firewall, inside and outside the cabin?
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Old 06-26-2009, 03:39 PM   #190
java04rexracr
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What type of adhesives did you use for the CCF and MLV?
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Old 06-26-2009, 05:35 PM   #191
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebonysti View Post
Nice work, did 80% of my car a year ago took me over 24 hours total I have a good idea of the time you spent and the money for the mat crap but it was one of the best mods I did changes the car for DD I did not care about the extra weight.
Any way nice job hope you never have to remove it
I've estimated i have 60-80hrs in my car doing the deadening work... lol..

I got lucky and didn't pay for most of my deadening..

Yeah, if I ever have to remove it, i'll just get a N2 Dewar and go to town..

Quote:
What are doing with the firewall, inside and outside the cabin?
I've gotten SS LLP as far up on the firewall as possible, without removing the dash... Then I filled every cavity I could get my hands into with a memory type foam... Like around and behind the gauge cluster, totally filled... all around the upper center pod and all around the airbag, filled..

This is the underside of the drivers dash... lol..



I have a gallon SS "Sludge" that i'm planning on doing the lower firewall with along with the wheel wells and maybe floor-pan, if it goes that far.. I don't know if I will do the upper firewall, it's my show car and one of the first things that happen is the hood goes up..

Quote:
What type of adhesives did you use for the CCF and MLV?
for the CCF, I used SS brand rattle can spray adhesive...

For the Luxury Liner Pro, it's getting this...

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Old 06-27-2009, 12:56 PM   #192
bigolrig
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You sir, are insane.
Can't wait to see the finished product!
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Old 06-27-2009, 02:49 PM   #193
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Me either...!

Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:01 PM   #194
JC
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You definitely shound have bought a cheap db meter to do a before and after.

Last edited by JC; 08-13-2011 at 11:51 AM.
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Old 07-10-2009, 11:07 PM   #195
Ysidro
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holy crap!
I got to admit, you got alot of patience.
I was going to replace the rear speaker on my car like 1 year ago. Still I havent done squat.
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Old 07-11-2009, 10:16 AM   #196
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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I'm driven on passion of this type of work, it's the same passion that keeps me here answering the same questions, year after year...
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:10 AM   #197
hookedontronics
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what kind of deadening did u use?
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Old 07-12-2009, 09:40 AM   #198
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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Cascade vMax, RAAMat BXT and a crapload of Second Skin... The vMax and BXT parts of the install are at the front of the post..
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Old 07-14-2009, 03:01 PM   #199
bpang1
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Quickie question: for putting the deadener on the doors and creating a sort of seal over the big huge holes...do you just put the deadener right over the holes or do you back it up with like cardboard or something?
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Old 07-14-2009, 06:54 PM   #200
Aaron'z 2.5RS
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I personally didn't use anything, but I also have mutiple layers over the holes and it's sunken/stretched into place.. there won't be enough flex from it for me to be concerned... If I find there is, well, I can cut the sections out and cover them with something..

Cardboard would do much, it's flimsy and would soak up water... If I where to do it (which I prolly should have) I would use some sort of plastic..

Some use expanded steel, which would cut the paint and cause a rust issue... some have used aluminum flashing, which is ok, but still would need to be attached somehow..
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