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Old 02-16-2008, 02:47 PM   #1
niemkij
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Default Front Sway Bar/Endlinks install 06 STi Perrin

I recently completed a front and rear sway bar install and had a few points to add to other front sway bar install threads.

I followed the steps given in the Subaru service manual and the manufacturer's instructions. In short, this includes removing the front undercover, the jack plate, and the sub-frame. After removing the stock endlinks the sway bar itself was easy to get off by removing the two support brackets that hold it in place. The new bar installed in reverse order. The endlinks required a few washer spacers to get them aligned perpendicular to the ground when the car was on the ground.

First, get the car in the air. Be sure it is secure. I used jack stands in the cutouts on the side of the car's lower frame. It may be easier to use ramps since you will need to tighten the sway bar mounting bolts when the suspension is “loaded,” that is when the full weight of the car is on the wheels/tires.

Then remove the front lower cover (splashguard). There are five bolts that require a 12 mm socket, three in the front and two toward the rear. There are two "pop" fasteners on each side as well. These can be removed by using a small flat bladed screwdriver to pop up the center round plastic piece about a quarter of an inch then pulling/wriggling out the entire fastener.

Next, remove the jack plate. There are four bolts in the center area to remove and two nuts on each side.



The sub-frame is an odd looking, approximately C shaped, bracket under the front part of the car. The opening of the C is toward the rear of the car. It helps to remove this to make it easier to get to the bolts that hold the sway bar onto the frame.

The sub-frame has five bolts on each leg of the C and two toward the front of the car. The two rearmost bolts require a 14mm socket, the other three on each side require a 17mm socket and the two on the front require a 12mm socket. Start by removing a plastic cover on each side that is held in place by two pop fasteners.



Then remove another pop fastener on each side of the sub-frame.



Loosen the rearmost bolt on each side of the sub-frame first. This one sits down in a cutout in the plastic side undercover. Do not remove the bolt; just loosen it until it is almost all the way off. There is a slot in the sub-frame here that allows you to remove the sub-frame once all the other bolts are off by pulling the sub-frame forward.



Remove the other four bolts on each side of the sub-frame next. Finally, remove the front two bolts and slide the sub-frame forward to remove it.

Next, remove the endlinks on each side starting with the lower bolt.

The bolt may spin when turning the nut. I grabbed onto it with pliers as shown.



Note the orientation of the bends at the end of the stock sway bar. You will want to install the new bar the same way. Remove the nut and bolt on each sway bar bracket and the bar will be free. Note the orientation of the bracket. It goes on only one way.



I prepared the new bar by wrapping the bar in the area where the bushing will go with Teflon tape.



I also used the grease supplied by the manufacturer on the inside of the bushing before putting it on the bar. I re-used the stock brackets to attach the bar to the frame and torqued them to 25 N-m (18.1 ft-lbs). My torque wrench reads in N-m.
Be sure to reinstall the brackets in the same orientation as they were originally. Subaru instructions say to tighten the bracket bolts with the car on the ground and the vehicle is at “curb weight.”



Installing the endlinks was easy. Just be sure to follow the instructions regarding the order of the parts.



I torqued the bolts to 45 N-m (33 ft-lbs), again with the car on the ground. I also needed to add three washer spacers so that the endlinks were perpendicular to the ground when the car was on the ground (green arrows).



The sub-frame went back on next by sliding it onto the bolts left on the car and then putting in the two bolts at the front of the car. I hand started all the remaining bolts and snugged them up before torqueing them down. The two bolts at the front of the car get tightened to 34 N-m (25 ft-lbs) using a 12 mm socket. The next three bolts on either side get tightened to 55 N-m (41 ft-lbs) using a 17 mm socket. And the last two bolts toward the rear of the car get tightened to 70 N-m (52 ft-lbs) using a 14 mm socket.

Re-attach the plastic covers on each side of the sub-frame being careful to insert the small tab on the cover into a hole in the sub-frame first. Also, attach the plastic side cover to each side of the sub-frame with the single pop fastener that was removed earlier.

Re-install the jack plate. The two nuts on either side get tightened to 30 N-m (22 ft-lbs). The four bolts get tightened to 70 N-m (52 ft-lbs).

Re-install the front under-cover. The five bolts get tightened to 14 N-m (10.3 ft-lbs).

Finally, road test the car to be sure all is well and check out the improved handling!
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Last edited by niemkij; 04-27-2010 at 09:00 PM. Reason: Update pics
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Old 03-26-2008, 02:11 PM   #2
Jonnyfilmboy
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Is this similar to a WRX front sway bar replacement procedure? By the way, thanks for the writeup!
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Old 03-26-2008, 02:54 PM   #3
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Just a note in regards to removal of OEM front endlinks. The proper way to remove them is to insert a 5mm hex into the "bolt head". Look carefull at the end of the endlink bolt, you'll that it has a hex hole at the end of it. The hex wrench will prevent the bolt from rotatin. Use a box wrench to remove the nut.
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:20 PM   #4
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What if you are just changing out the sway bar bushings and endlinks, do you have to remove the sub frame?
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Old 03-27-2008, 12:28 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badsswrx View Post
What if you are just changing out the sway bar bushings and endlinks, do you have to remove the sub frame?
nah u shouldnt have to remove the subframe for that


hey is that the 25mm perrin i did this on my 04 sti as well not long ago

oh ya my endlinks are no way near straight should i fix that?

Last edited by gtasti; 03-27-2008 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 09-19-2008, 12:47 PM   #6
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tagged to read later
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Old 01-17-2009, 09:50 PM   #7
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i have an 06 wrx....would these be the same instructions?
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Old 08-27-2010, 10:28 AM   #8
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I had to drop the sub-frame on my 05 STi, it made it 1000X's easier to change out the bar.

I just changed mine last night, i ended up going with the 24mm whiteline bar front and rear. I have a question/problem... When i turn my wheel almost all the way in either direction, i hear a pretty loud grinding sound, metal on metal. It almost sounds as if my bar is rubbing on my wheel? I turned the wheel all the way to one side and got out to look, but couldnt really tell because my car is so low. Also, there is NO grinding noise either direction while moving in reverse.

Anyone have any thoughts?
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Old 08-28-2010, 10:18 AM   #9
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bump bump!
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtasti View Post
nah u shouldnt have to remove the subframe for that


hey is that the 25mm perrin i did this on my 04 sti as well not long ago

oh ya my endlinks are no way near straight should i fix that?
yes fix it or if youre sway bar slides laterally you could easily cause the endlink to fail
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:48 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnie View Post
Just a note in regards to removal of OEM front endlinks. The proper way to remove them is to insert a 5mm hex into the "bolt head". Look carefull at the end of the endlink bolt, you'll that it has a hex hole at the end of it. The hex wrench will prevent the bolt from rotatin. Use a box wrench to remove the nut.
if you choose to use a socket you should also be able to get to the hex cut-out on the reverse side of the bolt as well...haha, first time I ever tried to mess with the stock crap I wasn't paying much attention and after like 20 seconds of hitting it with a socket I look up like "damn this is a long bolt or something..." haha...lesson well learned.
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Old 02-10-2011, 09:55 PM   #12
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OP, nice write-up!

To the WRX owners that asked: the procedure is the same for 2006 & 2007 models.
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Old 11-19-2011, 08:41 PM   #13
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Great instructions! Thank you
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:32 PM   #14
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Just FYI, this is the same for a 2.5i. I guess the only difference is there is only one bolt 12mm holding the front of the sub-frame in. Anyone had alignment issues after this install? I feel like removal of the subframe might tweak things a bit, but I could be wrong...
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:38 PM   #15
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Has anyone had a bro elm with the Whiteline sway bars being too wide? I put a kartboy ending spacer on top, but will probably remove it to make the end link vertical. The bolt looks like it will contact the sway bar when the suspension is fully slammed. Any thoughts?
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:56 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NVsubaru View Post


Has anyone had a bro elm with the Whiteline sway bars being too wide? I put a kartboy ending spacer on top, but will probably remove it to make the end link vertical. The bolt looks like it will contact the sway bar when the suspension is fully slammed. Any thoughts?
That looks OK to me. having the bushing angles more relaxed is more important than having it perpendicular to the ground.

t
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:01 AM   #17
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Yeah, it feels fine; no rubbing, no noises. Thanks for the quality endlinks!
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Old 04-02-2012, 12:08 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnie View Post
Just a note in regards to removal of OEM front endlinks. The proper way to remove them is to insert a 5mm hex into the "bolt head". Look carefull at the end of the endlink bolt, you'll that it has a hex hole at the end of it. The hex wrench will prevent the bolt from rotatin. Use a box wrench to remove the nut.
this post saved my brain today. could not figure out how to get that bolt out.
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Old 08-08-2012, 11:37 PM   #19
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i just ordered a pair of perrin front sway bar links in hopes of solving a clunking noise i have when cornering/going over bumps/potholes. I already have a perrin (22mm i think) sway bar on the car. It came with it, which was a bonus cause the salesmen thought the care was bone-stock.... bwahahaha... I was just wondering if the perrins sway bar links would improve the handling feel at all over the oem links, or will they just not fail as quickly?
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:11 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slickz View Post
i just ordered a pair of perrin front sway bar links in hopes of solving a clunking noise i have when cornering/going over bumps/potholes. I already have a perrin (22mm i think) sway bar on the car. It came with it, which was a bonus cause the salesmen thought the care was bone-stock.... bwahahaha... I was just wondering if the perrins sway bar links would improve the handling feel at all over the oem links, or will they just not fail as quickly?
All I have read is yes & yes.
Because the link doesn't flex when loaded, it starts resisting sway right away.
Because the link is metal, it shouldn't fail. Haven't heard if rust is a factor for all the eastern drivers. So glad we have very little of the to deal with.

Since your post is about 8 months old, do you have your links on, and did you notice an improvement? Mine go on this weekend with the rest of a suspension rebuild and an alignment next week. The end of a multi-month project.
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Old 03-12-2013, 04:17 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by badsswrx
What if you are just changing out the sway bar bushings and endlinks, do you have to remove the sub frame?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gtasti View Post
nah u shouldnt have to remove the subframe for that.
I'm guessing you do need to do the same procedures, and you definitely need to on an '02. The subframe is in the way of the bushing mount bolts. Fortunately, though the subframe looks intimidating, it's really easy to remove because it is non-structural.
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